I've been thinking about a 3 mm thick steel controlpanel

[Vebbo]

I got this idea the other day. What about some pure steel Controlplate. So i wondered what are the Pros - Cons steel vs wood or a mix where u got 0.5 mm or 1 mm metal over wood panel. Ooh the possibilities, its almost killing me 

Below you see some pics of my project so far with my custom built controlpanel.

Controlpanel layout


With all parts mounted


Project so far


I got a hold of a 3 mm steel plate today and man, thats some durable s...



This plate was cut with a water-jet cutter I've been told.

If I'm going this route there is quite some decisions to be made (as usual    )

The estetichs
Add full custom gfx on white vinyl overlay or a clear vinyl only printed with vector art explaining the controllers and button layout
Spray it with a clear coat
Get some airbrush action on it
Change color of the steel with heat or something like this "Liquid Cold Bluing Chemical" http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1112/Product/FORMULA_44_40_reg__INSTANT_GUN_BLUE and then spray clear coat

Controllers and buttons
Japanese sticks (read a lot about Seimitsu and Sanwa but i haven't tried them) They are usually installed in metal cp's, right?
U360 or happ p360 (love my happs )

Randy has some cool buttons coming soon i hope


Never tried Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons but from what I've read they are hi class

Image: Sanwa OBSF-24 (snap-in), Seimitsu PS-14-DN (screw-in)
A snap-in button has flexing plastic grooves that hold it to a rigid panel 1.5mm to 4.5mm thick

The feel
When i place my hand on that steel plate, in the beginning its cold but it adapts the heat of my palm rather quick so i dont think it will be uncomfortable over time.


Well, thats my thoughts so far.

 

[Jack Burton]

The Happ sticks will need a few washers put between them and the CP to get the right mounting height.  Other than that this seems like an easy project as long as you can find a machine shop willing to cut your panel for you.  I think it might be significantly more expensive than a wooden one.

The Sanwa buttons are quite sensitive, and can't take quite as much of a beating as the Happ or Il buttons.  If you're going to have kids or button mashers on your cab I recommend going with the Happ's.  If you and some more sensible gamers are going to be using the machine I recommend the Sanwa.  They are excellent for fighting games. 

[drventure]

That'll take one hell of a router to put the tmold slot in 

[drventure]

BTW, for a 2 player cab, I like that layout, though I'd probably go with the slightly curved button layout vs straight.

[Knave Jack]

I own 2 water jets, so if you want the panel out of steel, aluminum, stainless, or just about anything else, let me know and I will get you a quote. If you are in SoCal, then you may not have to worry about shipping. I will try and work a quote from your drawing. On the down side, I probably wont get it to you before the 18th. I am leaving on a much needed vacation.javascript:void(0);

[Vebbo]

The Sanwa buttons are quite sensitive, and can't take quite as much of a beating as the Happ or Il buttons.  If you're going to have kids or button mashers on your cab I recommend going with the Happ's.  If you and some more sensible gamers are going to be using the machine I recommend the Sanwa.  They are excellent for fighting games. 

Well i just have to order some more parts and test them i guess. I'm not so fan of fighting games I'm more a shmup fan.

That'll take one hell of a router to put the tmold slot in 

lol

BTW, for a 2 player cab, I like that layout, though I'd probably go with the slightly curved button layout vs straight.

I have been thinking about a curved layout, found lots here http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html but as a shmup fan I'm not sure if its necessary

I own 2 water jets, so if you want the panel out of steel, aluminum, stainless, or just about anything else, let me know and I will get you a quote. If you are in SoCal, then you may not have to worry about shipping. I will try and work a quote from your drawing. On the down side, I probably wont get it to you before the 18th. I am leaving on a much needed vacation.

Thanks Knave Jack that's very generous but i live in Norway. I have an appointment with a "water jet" firm next week. I'll have a chat with them and then we see how it goes.

[Diewrecked]

As one who is coming to the end of a project building a cab with a steel plate I can tell you it's (a) much, much harder to find people/places that will provide the services you require and (b) exponentially more expensive.

I bought my cab off eBay with working monitor but no game board for 70 quid. I had to replace the panel because it had button holes drilled all over the place so I had to start from scratch. To get a panel the same shape and size (and bent to shape correctly) cost 60 quid, then I spent literally MONTHS trying to find local people who wouldn't charge a fortune to drill the holes. Finding someone who can drill an 82mm hole for a trackball into 3mm thick mild steel is no mean feat let me tell you! And similarly the only companies I found who would even take on the job of drilling the holes (most won't as it's bespoke what you're asking for) wanted three figures to do it (ie several hundred quid). I was very fortunate in that eventually a mate of a mate was able to do it (and only wanted a case of beer - happy days!! ) but it was a living nightmare finding him and getting it done and I think I'm the exception rather than the rule with the result I had.

There ARE people on this board who would be able to do it for you (one offered to do mine early on in the project but then couldn't because it wasn't a flat piece of steel by then it had already been bent into shape) but what they would charge, and indeed whether there are any even in Norway I don't know.

I'm not trying to put you off doing it, I just want you under no illusion as to the potential implications. I have to say, on the plus side, if you can deal with all of the above, it really does look the absolute nuts when it's finished! Plus you don't need mounting plates for anything so I was able to cram 2 player 6 button and a 3" trackball onto a panel 60cm long.

One word of advice when it comes to cutting is go slow and use loads of grease: it took my mate nearly half an hour to drill the 82mm trackball hole.

[Gray_Area]

I'm wondering why you're wanting one out of metal when you already have one finished and mounted that's wood.....

[tony.silveira]

diewrecked

PLEASE post a pic of the panel.  i have a bug to do one myself and i just traded games locally with a guy who happens to be a machinist and he generously offered to help.  would LOVE to see a finished piece before i commit to the change

[Knave Jack]

I dont have access to the pictures since we are on vacation, but when I get home I will post picts of the old control surface from my 4 player prototyping cab. I want with #4 (line grain) finished SS. It looks great for a while, but contrary to popular opinion, Stainless isnt really stainless. It takes finger prints something fierce. It's also heavy and difficult to work with when you need to make changes or check wiring. I have since gone back to an MDF control surface.

As one who is coming to the end of a project building a cab with a steel plate I can tell you it's (a) much, much harder to find people/places that will provide the services you require and (b) exponentially more expensive. you are absolutely right about this. But look at it from the shop owners perspective. It is exponentially more expensive to make one of something. The time setting up the machine(s) is usually the biggest part of that. Especially for a sheet metal shop. They have to make sure they have the right dies in the brake, and they usually ask for a test piece to check setup. I work with a sheet metal shop that is in my complex. I try to never take them something that is less than 20 pieces. Frankly it just isnt worth it to them to do less. Or to look at it the other way its not worth it to me to not be able to spread that setup money over multiple parts. There are ways to avoid having to have a sheet metal shop do your bending. If you are going the waterjet route, you can have the shop put a series of slits in the metal where your bends need to be. In .063" I usually do one inch solid and one inch cut. If you put a small notch at the beginning and end, its fairly easy for you to bend it to the shape you want and if cosmetics are important, just use bondo to fill the gaps, or if you have a friend who welds, then ask them for help. I just made a center cap for my moms gazebo this way. 

I bought my cab off eBay with working monitor but no game board for 70 quid. I had to replace the panel because it had button holes drilled all over the place so I had to start from scratch. To get a panel the same shape and size (and bent to shape correctly) cost 60 quid, then I spent literally MONTHS trying to find local people who wouldn't charge a fortune to drill the holes. Finding someone who can drill an 82mm hole for a trackball into 3mm thick mild steel is no mean feat let me tell you! And similarly the only companies I found who would even take on the job of drilling the holes (most won't as it's bespoke what you're asking for) wanted three figures to do it (ie several hundred quid). I was very fortunate in that eventually a mate of a mate was able to do it (and only wanted a case of beer - happy days!! ) but it was a living nightmare finding him and getting it done and I think I'm the exception rather than the rule with the result I had.

There ARE people on this board who would be able to do it for you (one offered to do mine early on in the project but then couldn't because it wasn't a flat piece of steel by then it had already been bent into shape) but what they would charge, and indeed whether there are any even in Norway I don't know.

Bent material isn't always a problem, it just depends on the shape and if there is a way to hold it.

I'm not trying to put you off doing it, I just want you under no illusion as to the potential implications. I have to say, on the plus side, if you can deal with all of the above, it really does look the absolute nuts when it's finished! Plus you don't need mounting plates for anything so I was able to cram 2 player 6 button and a 3" trackball onto a panel 60cm long.
The other up side of metal is you can weld studs on the inside and have hidden mounting.

One word of advice when it comes to cutting is go slow and use loads of grease: it took my mate nearly half an hour to drill the 82mm trackball hole.
As an example, the waterjet would cut this in about 10 seconds. A laser would be about 3 seconds. The thing to keep in mind with most of these types of shops is that they almost all have a minimum. The laser shop I use has a $120.00 minimum. So if the job is going to cost me less to cut it than that, I cut it myself.
If you all would really like to hear more about the difference between waterjet and laser and their capabilities, I will be happy to share what I know.
Thanks,
Mike   javascript:void(0);

[Vebbo]

I'm wondering why you're wanting one out of metal when you already have one finished and mounted that's wood.....

Its just an idea I got Gray_Area. But after reading what Knave Jack has to say I'm getting second thoughts

I also had a chat with the water jet firm and they thought this was such a cool project so he would do it for free  I'll have to review my drawing thou.

[Blanka]

3mm steel is heavy! Why not use aluminium. Does not rust, and 1/3rd the weight.

[Knave Jack]

I'm wondering why you're wanting one out of metal when you already have one finished and mounted that's wood.....

Its just an idea I got Gray_Area. But after reading what Knave Jack has to say I'm getting second thoughts

I also had a chat with the water jet firm and they thought this was such a cool project so he would do it for free  I'll have to review my drawing thou.

Thats awsome!!! I will cut small projects like this for way less than our normal shop rate, but it would have to be the most amazing thing i had ever seen to do it for free.
The best thing you can do if you want me to cut a project for you is get the material, and have good drawings I can use as is. That is the same with most shops. The biggest problems with dealing with non industrial customers is lack of knowledge, lack of usable drawings, and an unrealistic expectation of what things cost. I know not everyone has access to CAD software, but you probably have a friend that does. I can create usable files from a napkin sketch(or worse), and have done so many times, but that means you have to pay for my time spent at the computer drawing. It also creates the possability for error. And unfortunately for most of you guys, depending on the type of shop you are going to, the type of file you need can be radically different. I can use the AutoCad formats DXF and DWG, AI, EPS, CDR, and if i really have to PDF or JPEG. But a 3 access CNC shop is going to want a solid modeling file like an IGS, or and STL file. The sign shops can usually use AI, EPS, and CDR. All vector formats. But the routers run on gerber. They will have to do the conversion in house.

Sorry, I just realized that was probably waaaaay more information than you wanted.