OMG What have I gotten myself into -- 10 MORE CABS!

[trevski]

Am I seeing things or is one of those replacement capacitors the wrong way around?  

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Looks like the one next to the big heatsink.
Oops.

I guess that's why he sent those chassis's off instead of doing them himself D:

[trevski]

I guess that's why he sent those chassis's off instead of doing them himself D:

Oooh, SNAP!

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Snap fizzle and pop, if the current subject line is any indication ^_^

[smalltownguy]

Yep, POP! Fizzz......the capacitor at C18, to be exact. That'll teach me to not have the schematic with me when I'm doing this work. I blew the fuses at F4 and F5 too.

It was one of those cases where the capacitor fell out as I was desoldering it, and when it fell to the bench surface, it turned. I couldn't tell what orientation it was  originally. Of course the SMART person would have looked at oh, say maybe, THE FRIGGEN PICTURE I TOOK 20 SECONDS AGO???!!? 

Instead, I looked at the screened side of the PCB and saw the '+' sign, and guessed that the PCB was printed correctly. Obviously it wasn't.

Terrible part was the schematics and manual were in the plastic sleeve up in the garage, with the correct cap orientations clearly illustrated. *sigh*

While I wait to get my hands on another 3300uf 35v axial, my buddy had ordered a couple of 3300uf 35v radial caps from Bob Roberts too. Using cutoffs as leg extensions, I'll be able to at least continue testing the ARII once I get new fuses for F4 and F5.

Dammit. This work is challenging enough without committing simple mistakes too. I should have known better.

On the plus side I have an extra $260 in my pocket from the Golden Tee. That's more than $100 profit.

Anyone know whether or not I should be concerned about any other components on the ARII board with this little mishap? Maybe someone with some experience with these could share some tips on what I may want to check before my next smoke test?

[Malenko]

pop pop fizz fizz (alka seltzer reference?)

[smalltownguy]

pop pop fizz fizz (alka seltzer reference?)

Congrats, Malenko, you win the prize for catching the double entendre. 

[smalltownguy]

SUCCESS! Centipede lives!

I replaced the slow blow fuses when I got home from work, plugged in, and voila! Centipede with SOUND! Woot! Looks like the volume pot I bought today will be able to go back to Rat Shack. By the way, it's a good thing I will never need to buy any capacitors at Radio Shack any time soon. I walked in and asked the guy there if they had a 3300 micro-farad 35 volt axial capacitor and he looked at me like I was martian or something. Seriously? I think I could see the smoke of confusion coming out his ears, er, his bluetooth earpiece.

At least they had fuses and a pot. Believe me when I tell you I had to dig them out myself. Anyway, I digress. I really wish I had a component store near me. I hate paying $6.00 shipping for a .50 cap. 

I metered the sockets for the Mortal Kombat II cab today, and they were 13 volts. So, that would explain why my 6v wedge bulbs burned like the sun for sixteen seconds and smoked.    So I need some 12v wedge bulbs. Since I work at an auto dealership, I think I know where I can get them

I'm taking a break for a few more days, now that I'm waiting for parts. I have to get some transistors for the DK board to try and get Kong's 'pounding' sound back. I also got a lead from a fellow KLOVer on a pair of Nintendo coin mechs for a great price, so I'll pick those up on Sunday night.  I'm also waiting on my chassis to come back from Carl Blessing at Allgood. I'm getting a replacement flyback from Chad at arcadecup.com for it, and hopefully I'll be able to get that 19K7302 up and running again. But that's Monday & Tuesday.

Tonight, I'm enjoying some of the fruits of my labor. First a little pizza from the pizzeria:



And the perfect companion for pizza....BEER! But not just any beer. NEWCASTLE *drool* in a fridge keg 

[smalltownguy]

Okay, since I have 6 working cabs in my garage that are about ready to turn back over to the pizza place owner, I'd like to get the details of our bartering agreement signed off on before the cabs leave the garage. Basically, I'm asking for the Final Fight cabinet outright, and free pizza for life in exchange for completing his large repair project as well as remaining as his 'goto' guy for future repairs. Here are the terms of the agreement that I've written up so far. Does anyone have any other terms that I should be adding to this agreement?

Additional terms:
1. Offeror shall be retained as the permanent first contact for repairs of video games owned by offeree.
2. Free pizza is to be picked up only; delivery is not included in the offer.
3. Repair parts will be paid for by offeree.
4. Ongoing free pizza offer will be limited to a maximum of the value of two 18 inch Paradise Supreme pizzas per month, or equivalent menu value as of the date of this agreement (currently $24.99 each retail).
5. Unused months may be rolled over, but total earned value shall never exceed more than $150.
6. A value of $20 per hour, rounded to the nearest quarter hour,  shall be used in logging labor time spent doing repairs.
7. A detailed breakdown by individual game for the introductory repair project is attached to this agreement.
8. Offeror agrees to repair machines to such degree that they meet typical video game operational standards. This includes acceptable working gameplay, display, controls, lights, coin mechanisms, and sounds.
9. Offeror agrees to maintain up to a maximum of 12 games total for Offeree. Should the Offeree purchase and own more than twelve games, this agreement shall be re-negotiated.

[jimmy2x2x]

Sounds like a friendly gentleman's agreement!

[wxforecaster]

I think you need a clause in there regarding heart attacks and medical issues related to excessive pizza consumption. 

[gShooter]

Okay, since I have 6 working cabs in my garage that are about ready to turn back over to the pizza place owner, I'd like to get the details of our bartering agreement signed off on before the cabs leave the garage. Basically, I'm asking for the Final Fight cabinet outright, and free pizza for life in exchange for completing his large repair project as well as remaining as his 'goto' guy for future repairs. Here are the terms of the agreement that I've written up so far. Does anyone have any other terms that I should be adding to this agreement?

Additional terms:
1. Offeror shall be retained as the permanent first contact for repairs of video games owned by offeree.
2. Free pizza is to be picked up only; delivery is not included in the offer.
3. Repair parts will be paid for by offeree.
4. Ongoing free pizza offer will be limited to a maximum of the value of two 18 inch Paradise Supreme pizzas per month, or equivalent menu value as of the date of this agreement (currently $24.99 each retail).
5. Unused months may be rolled over, but total earned value shall never exceed more than $150.
6. A value of $20 per hour, rounded to the nearest quarter hour,  shall be used in logging labor time spent doing repairs.
7. A detailed breakdown by individual game for the introductory repair project is attached to this agreement.
8. Offeror agrees to repair machines to such degree that they meet typical video game operational standards. This includes acceptable working gameplay, display, controls, lights, coin mechanisms, and sounds.
9. Offeror agrees to maintain up to a maximum of 12 games total for Offeree. Should the Offeree purchase and own more than twelve games, this agreement shall be re-negotiated.

If you want a real contract, hit me up.  I do contracts for a living.

[jennifer]

      A contract? what, am I seeing this right? If it"s true that should have been done BEFORE the job. pizza for life, parts, labor, free
game? Man thats the kind of mafia style shakedown that took down the industry. Just let your work stand on it"s own, he"ll be back
soon enough.

[IG-88]

      A contract? what, am I seeing this right? If it"s true that should have been done BEFORE the job. pizza for life, parts, labor, free
game? Man thats the kind of mafia style shakedown that took down the industry. Just let your work stand on it"s own, he"ll be back
soon enough.

Well said. Kinda what I thought too.

[dfmaverick]

Yeah, I thought you made it sounds as if there was already a gentleman's agreement. 

[smalltownguy]

Yeah, I thought you made it sounds as if there was already a gentleman's agreement. 

There already is a gentleman's agreement, but it's nice to know where the boundaries are. I really didn't want to be in that space where you are either overextending yourself, or not feeling like you've gotten enough value out of the deal.

As it stands, I brought him my spreadsheet breakdown today of all the work I've done. Total of $200 in parts (after I spent his $191), and 30 hours labor. I was cautious about choosing $20 per labor hour. I figured most arcade repair places would have a shop rate of easily 3 to 4 times that, with a minimum charge to boot. But I also didn't want to price my labor time at minimum wage, since it IS somewhat skilled work.

So he agreed with all of my assessments of parts and labor costing, and he has set me up with $800 in credit today. Any time I call in an order, it gets subtracted from the bartered total. Any time I do more work, it gets added to the total. Easy enough to keep track of.

 

[jimmy2x2x]

That sounds like a good compromise, 'free pizza for life' seemed a bit OTT and would have soured the relationship in time.

Excellent thread btw, I'm really enjoying it - quite an education for me

[Funnel]

So... no free pizza for life? 

[smalltownguy]

So... no free pizza for life? 

It depends. If he continues to call on me for periodic repairs, it's $20 per labor hour added to the store credit. Since I'm starting with $800 in the bank, and 8 mid-80's to early 90's machines on location in constant use and on 18 hours per day, I'll have no trouble with him having to call me for at least 2-3 service calls per month. At an average of 1-2 hours per call, depending on the repair, I have no doubt that this arrangement will yield more pizza than I'll ever want to eat. And the kicker is there's no limit to this proposed agreement. I could let the total credit just continue to climb and climb, until I host a superbowl party in Jan and order 50 party pizzas. 

I feel this is a great deal. He's also got burgers, gyros, ice cream, cheese curds, funnel cakes, a lunch buffet, etc etc etc.

[Funnel]

Whoa awesome deal! Is the owner happy about the machines being repaired? Did you get to keep the Final Fight cab?

[smalltownguy]

Yes, and YES! I will start the Ms Pac Restoration this winter, in my basement wood shop.

I need stencils for Ms Pac.....*checks to see if Midway is looking*........anyone? anyone?

[gShooter]

Stick with your current arrangement.  Either fortunately, or unfortunately depending upon your perspective, once you have something in writing then that's exactly what you get and have liability for.  

With your current arrangement, while its true he could back out, so could you.  You, or he, would then be limited to small claims court and the enforcement of your 'gentleman's agreement'...a verbal contract.

And Jennifer is correct about the sequence.  While nothing precludes contracting after the fact, its generally preferred to have the contract in place before the performance of work.  Unless, the contract you were thinking about is a follow-on service agreement in which case defining those requirements now is probably appropriate.

Keep the receipts from your purchases and a running log on a spreadsheet with dates as back-up; a huge bonus is if the receipt shows the remaining balance on your account.  You might want to speak with the owner as well for large purchases (Super Bowl Party). It's one thing to make an extra pizza or two a week which probably doesn't have an impact on the day to day business. It's a different matter, I assume dependent upon business size, to make 50 pies on one of the busiest/most profitable days of the year.

Instead of a running log, if I were in your situation, I might ask for a gift card/certificate instead of a running total (unless the receipts show your balance).  I only mention this as protection for you...just in case.

[smalltownguy]

Stick with your current arrangement.  Either fortunately, or unfortunately depending upon your perspective, once you have something in writing then that's exactly what you get and have liability for.  

With your current arrangement, while its true he could back out, so could you.  You, or he, would then be limited to small claims court and the enforcement of your 'gentleman's agreement'...a verbal contract.

And Jennifer is correct about the sequence.  While nothing precludes contracting after the fact, its generally preferred to have the contract in place before the performance of work.  Unless, the contract you were thinking about is a follow-on service agreement in which case defining those requirements now is probably appropriate.

Keep the receipts from your purchases and a running log on a spreadsheet with dates as back-up; a huge bonus is if the receipt shows the remaining balance on your account.  You might want to speak with the owner as well for large purchases (Super Bowl Party). It's one thing to make an extra pizza or two a week which probably doesn't have an impact on the day to day business. It's a different matter, I assume dependent upon business size, to make 50 pies on one of the busiest/most profitable days of the year.

Instead of a running log, if I were in your situation, I might ask for a gift card/certificate instead of a running total (unless the receipts show your balance).  I only mention this as protection for you...just in case.

You know I really like the idea of a gift certificate in exchange for the 'up front' work that I did for the big resto project. Although I feel that if I asked him for a hard gift certificate, that might stray too far away from the bartering concept, and move more into the 'independent contractor' arena, which is about as close to an employee as you can get. I don't really want this to be something like employment. Apart from the tax implications, (1099 and the like) I think I'll let the 'note on the wall' concept work for him at this point, b/c it's working for another one of his clients (the guy who services his coolers), and it's easy to keep track of. Since I physically have to come in to pick the pizzas up, I can make sure that our records always match as far as how much the current running total is. I'll keep documentation on my end just as a fail safe, and I'm sure he will too.

As far as placing a huge order on a busy day like Super Bowl Sunday, I totally agree, that would be way out of line. I was simply stating that I could stockpile the credit for a party if I wanted to (at his suggestion, I might add -- "You want a big pizza party?" ) An offer for a barter like this is something that needs to result in both parties feeling like they've achieved something of value out of the deal. Common Sense needs to be exercised with respect to redemption of my end of the deal. If the situation proposed 'just doesn't seem right,' then it probably isn't, and either one of us should reconsider. Besides, he's a good acquaintance of mine with many other friends and business owners in our network -- in a small town like this your reputation precedes you wherever you go.

With good sense and integrity, there's no reason why a long lasting relationship won't be favorable for both of us. I get something cool and unique - free pizza whenever I want it, and he gets something cool and unique - a fully functional, regularly serviced, profitable coin-op arcade. Can't say many people have that these days.

I'm also very much on board with the verbal 'gentleman's agreement' concept. I know enough about him that he'll keep his end of the bargain, and he knows enough about me that I won't abuse it. Intruducing legal documentation opens up a can of worms that I really don't need, and would probably hurt our relationship more than help it. You're right, either one of us can walk away from it at any time, with no regrets. We've both already realized value -- he's got 8 cabinets repaired, and I've learned a ton of knowledge on someone else's equipment. I'm already satisfied; the free pizza is a bonus that makes it even better.

[dfmaverick]

Sounds like you both made out well.

[gShooter]

You know I really like the idea of a gift certificate in exchange for the 'up front' work that I did for the big resto project. Although I feel that if I asked him for a hard gift certificate, that might stray too far away from the bartering concept, and move more into the 'independent contractor' arena, which is about as close to an employee as you can get. I don't really want this to be something like employment. Apart from the tax implications, (1099 and the like) I think I'll let the 'note on the wall' concept work for him at this point, b/c it's working for another one of his clients (the guy who services his coolers), and it's easy to keep track of. Since I physically have to come in to pick the pizzas up, I can make sure that our records always match as far as how much the current running total is. I'll keep documentation on my end just as a fail safe, and I'm sure he will too.
...
With good sense and integrity, there's no reason why a long lasting relationship won't be favorable for both of us. I get something cool and unique - free pizza whenever I want it, and he gets something cool and unique - a fully functional, regularly serviced, profitable coin-op arcade. Can't say many people have that these days.

I'm also very much on board with the verbal 'gentleman's agreement' concept. I know enough about him that he'll keep his end of the bargain, and he knows enough about me that I won't abuse it. Intruducing legal documentation opens up a can of worms that I really don't need, and would probably hurt our relationship more than help it. You're right, either one of us can walk away from it at any time, with no regrets. We've both already realized value -- he's got 8 cabinets repaired, and I've learned a ton of knowledge on someone else's equipment. I'm already satisfied; the free pizza is a bonus that makes it even better.

Sounds like you have solid options and a decent path forward and are aware of what and how you want your agreement.  I totally forgot about the tax implications as a small independent contractor.  I usually deal with corporate accounts except for consulting agreements/professional services agreements which I was making most of my references to.

On a totally seperate side note, does the usage of these machines in your state require a tax stamp?  If so, whats the charge per machine for the stamp?

[smalltownguy]

To my knowledge, only the 'crane' style games are required to be registered in the state of WI, but I can't say for sure.

[JustMichael]

One thing I found out a long time ago is that Common Sense isn't that common.

I am glad the situation is working out for both of you.  It also sounds like he has a nice selection of menu items.  May he stay in business for many years to come!

[smalltownguy]

I received my replacement flyback for the WG 19K7302 from Chad at arcadecup.com last Saturday, and today my chassis arrived back from Orlando.

Unfortunately, the neckboard was cracked when it arrived

I did my best to repair the broken traces with jumpers. The monitor did fire up, but I only got blue garbage. I'm throwing in the towel on this one. This Neo Geo cab was only given to me as a parts cab anyway -- I was the one who tried to revive it.

I'm going to put the finishing touches up on the DK (coin mech, new joystick ball, etc) and that will pretty much wrap up this project.

After this week I should be back to a clean garage....

[JustMichael]

After this week I should be back to a clean garage....

   And we all were enjoying this saga...

But I guess it is ok if you have a full belly...   

[smalltownguy]

I got my replacement CR1815 transistors tonight. I am going to try and attempt to get Kong's 'stomping' sound back on the Donkey Kong PCB.

I replaced the transistor at Q4, and no change. Mike's Arcade repair logs mentions reflowing solder around C22 and the 2 sound eproms. I know where C22 is, but can someone tell me (or better yet, show me) where the 2 sound Eproms are?

I also got a call back from the owner on Tuesday, apparently the Mortal Kombat machine was re-booting again. When I went back out to check on it, I found that the ribbon cable for the sound board was causing the problem. Wiggling it caused the sound board to come on and off, and the change in current draw when the board would connect / disconnect must have been what was causing the board to reboot. Lifting up on the edge of the board seemed to correct the issue. So, 5 minutes and a corner of a pizza box folded up later, the board is firmly wedged into place. Use what you've got eh?

[IG-88]

Not to sound like a vulture here but that neckboard that came back cracked, was it from the WG 19K7302? If it was wanna sell me that flyback 

[smalltownguy]

Not to sound like a vulture here but that neckboard that came back cracked, was it from the WG 19K7302? If it was wanna sell me that flyback  

I just may do that

I'm waiting on a replacement neckboard from Carl Blessing for the 19K7302. In the mean time, I attempted some minor surgery on the current cracked neckboard, in an attempt to repair the broken traces. When I plugged the monitor back in to my Neo Geo cab, this is what I got:

Any thoughts?

[smalltownguy]

I decided to dig into a few spare chassis tonight to see if I could get them up and running. At the very least, if I can get a few chassis going, I'll at least be able to sell them to offset the parts I'll need to start my Ms Pac Man restoration. I'm still waiting for my neckboard from Carl......

I had the K76xx chassis from the Golden Tee that had the blown flyback that I tackled first. I've never changed a flyback before, so this was a first for me. After I finished up all the soldering, connecting the screen wire and the focus wire to the neckboard, I took it upstairs to my Double Dragon cab -- the only one I have with an 8 pin neck. Powered it up and....

Nada.

??

Pulled the monitor back out, double checked the chassis again. Hm....fuse looks a bit brown on one side. Pull it, test for continuity, nothing. Bingo. I inserted a new fuse, flipped the switch and heard the familiar crackle! Image! But very dark. A small touch of the 'screen' button, and behold! Double Dragon! Woot! After a few adjustments, I feel that I have the picture looking pretty good, although I can't seem to adjust the horizontal width. I can turn the ferrite inside the width coil, but it does nothing. Looks good though, it's only about a 1/8" too narrow - the bezel will cover it.

The 2nd K7000 chassis was the first of 2 chassis I got from a fellow KLOVer. Found one of the AC wires had come unsoldered from the PCB, and the fuse was also blown. Fixed both, and yay! Another working chassis!

The 3rd K7000 chassis fires up, but there's serious color issues. I didn't leave it on long enough to try and adjust any of the pots on the neck board, but I'm betting the issues lie there. Maybe if I get time I'll swap neck boards between the working K7000 and this one to see if the problem follows the PCB or the neck board.

Meanwhile, the hunt for a 19" TV with a compatible tube for any of these 3 chassis continues. I've looked at about a dozen different TV's in the past few days, and none of them have a thin neck tube (CR31, 8 pin). I'll keep searching.

[smalltownguy]

Yay! I found my CR31 tube! Now I should finally be able to swap out my tube with the broken neck to get my 19" K7000 chassis monitor up and running again.

Here's my likely candidate:



It's a Westinghouse 19" TV, model WT-1942, manufactured September 1998.



After removing the back of the TV and looking for the tube number, I see:



That tube number, A48LGS30X18, is found in the B&K rejuvenator setup guide charts (click here) and lists as the correct heater voltage (6.3) and correct socket, a CR31, a thin neck tube with 8 pins.

I ohmed out the horizontal and verticals, and they're very close to my broken tube, so I may be able to get away with not having to swap yokes. I wrote down the ohm readings somewhere; when I get back to the workbench, I'll post them here.

I also got a 19K4900 from a fellow KLOVer with bad Pac burn. I found an Orion 19" TV, model 1929. Took the back off that one, and yep, it's a CR-23 10 pin fat neck. Here's a shot of the tube sticker:



A48AGY13X77 shows up on the B&K chart as a 6.3v, CR-23. Good candidate for the K4900, but it ohms out around 14.4 and 2.5, so the TV's yoke is not gonna work with my K4900, which ohms out at 35 vertical. Looks like I'll be swapping yokes on this one.

An old high school buddy of mine is coming over on Saturday morning, so we'll do these 2 tube swaps then. I'll try to document as much as I can for the community's benefit.

In the mean time, I should be getting my cap order from Digi-Key today or tomorrow so I can replace the caps on the audio section of the DK board I have. Maybe that will get me my pounding sound back from Kong. We'll see.

[Rick]

An old high school buddy of mine is coming over on Saturday morning, so we'll do these 2 tube swaps then. I'll try to document as much as I can for the community's benefit.

Please document as much as you can - I'm excited to see (specifically) the decasing of the monitor, as well as your mounting ideas.  (This part of my build scares me the most.)

[smalltownguy]

Ok, so today I worked on my 2 tube swaps. It was definitely a learning process. I started with a CR31 tube to replace the broken tube from earlier last month, and a CR23 tube to swap out my Pac Man burned K4900 monitor. In the end, I had one sucess, and one failure. Unfortunately, my failure involved rendering my ONLY CR31 tube useless, so now I'm on the hunt for another CR31 tube.

First, I'll document some pics of the 'failed' attempt.



My Westinghouse TV, with the back off.



TV chassis removed.



Here's the tube, removed from the TV case. At this point, I needed to make a choice to try and use the TV's yoke, or keep the old yoke from the broken tube. I should have swapped yokes.



Bolting the TV's tube into the monitor frame.



Here we go, the monitor is ready for my waiting chassis.



Chassis mounted and ready to go. Shortly after this picture was taken, we tested the monitor on my Neo Geo cab, and after mistakenly crossing 2 wires, the neck flashed bright white for a 1/2 second, and then nothing.  The tube blew. Damn.

After that, we tried moving the original yoke over to the tube, but to no avail. The guns inside the tube were blown. Since I do not have another donor TV with a CR31 neck socket, I'll have to wait before I try this again.

the 2nd swap went much better. I already knew that my K4900's yoke readings were much different than the donor TV's yoke, so I was planning on swapping yokes up front.



Here's my 19K4906, with really bad pac burn. Perfect candidate for a tube swap.



The yoke from my K4900, removed.



working on removing the degaussing coil and grounding strap. I ended up keeping the original degaussing cable, but I had to use the TV's grounding strap.



The burned tube, completely extricated



My donor TV, an Orion TV1929.



The TV's yoke, removed.



The donor tube, completely free from it's TV surroundings.



The new tube, bolted into the frame. I've already reinstalled the K4900 yoke, and here I'm ensuring the purity ring assembly is aligned to the marks I made before removing them. Remember, the purity rings stay with the tube, so these are the rings from the TV.



The chassis is installed, ready to go.



Done! Let's fire it up and see what happens!



Not too bad! A little bit of color adjustment is needed, but I should be able to tweak the color pots to get a nice picture.

So, with that, I'm able to button up the Neo Geo cab, since I now have a fully functional, burn-free monitor in it.

I wish my first swap attempt would have gone better, since I now have 3 K7000 chassis with CR31 neckboards, and no tubes to go with them.

As a side note, does anyone know whether or not I can use the flyback transformers from the TV chassis I have? Seems to me that since they drove the same tube, they should work. Anyone ever reclaim one?

[Rick]

Whoa. That's a huge undertaking. How much of this is involved in a simple monitor to MAME integration? (Usually?) Would I need to relocate the circuit board in a normal instance? Remove many of those other parts?

[smalltownguy]

Decasing a monitor for your mame cab? Not too hard. I'd say the most difficult part of that venture would be finding a way to bolt down the monitor's chassis, since there won't be any standard mounting holes. Other than that, if it's a 19" monitor, the dog ears should line up with an arcade monitor frame easy enough.

19" CRT monitors are pretty cheap these days, so give it a shot! What's the worst that can happen? You break something and have to get another 19" monitor.

FYI, I decased a 19" CRT computer monitor for my mame cab too. I ended up using a cardboad backer for the PCB, and I plastic strapped it in place. The monitor I bolted in using angled wood corner braces. Took me a few hours, but it's rock solid.

[Rick]

Good info, thanks!  (For the record, mine's gonna be a 27" TV decase... Wish me luck.)

[Razzer]

Good info, thanks!  (For the record, mine's gonna be a 27" TV decase... Wish me luck.)

Hey Rick

Here's how i mounted the tv (25") in my cab. Works like a charm.

PCB mounting was done by simply cutting that part of the original tv case out and screw it in place in the cab (not shown in the pics).

A little tip: You may want to do a little research into how to adjust the picture of the TV (tv service mode or similar) before you take it apart.

Razzer