Help the new guy plan his first cocktail cabinet

[Marsupial]

I am looking about making my first cabinet; it would be a 3/4" MDF cocktail table.  If the wife likes it, I am hoping to progress to the stand-up cabinet after that. lol.

I looked at the pacman and miss pacman tables, will likely make my own model inspired from these.

Any pointers of what I should be looking for in the planing stage? I did read around here quite a bit; but heading into a first project is always... hazardous.

At this point, I am hoping to just throw in the wife's old computer; its for our kids to play one-on-one some classic arcade games. I will want to make the layout to be adjusted in the event we change the computer and/or screen.

My first concerns will be about acquiring the proper sticks and buttons; I would like to avoid newbie mistakes and not order the crapiest things from ebay thinking I am making a sweet deal... what should I look for? how do I choose sticks and buttons? Every single ones I've saw seemed great, and I have read a lot of things on the forums...

Thanks for any upcoming tips.

[NOP]

you can't really go wrong with the U360's for sticks.  buttons are (to me) pretty much all the same, as long as they are arcade buttons anyway.

are you going to use a standard 19" arcade monitor, or are you putting an LCD or 19" computer monitor in?  that could have an impact on the number of buttons and sticks you might want to have on your machine, as with the computer monitor, you could now play more games, which could require more controls.

[javeryh]

I wouldn't try and reinvent the wheel - look HERE for the detailed cabinet plans and go from there unless you are a woodworking ninja and want to do something out of the box.   

[Turnarcades]

I wouldn't try and reinvent the wheel - look HERE for the detailed cabinet plans and go from there unless you are a woodworking ninja and want to do something out of the box.   

Agreed. Cocktail builds can be a little trickier as you have to ensure cabinet balance, height, strength and more importantly, fit of your components.

You will also need to ensure mounting strength (if using a CRT monitor - using an LCD is not reccommended unless you can be sure of it's viewing angles first), the logistics of gameplay (ie. do you want the monitor to rotate and are you interested in simultaneous co-op play as the game choice will be limited depending on your design) and also the setup of the software (if building an 'end-to-end' design you need to set up the front-end and games to flip/rotate accordingly).

Good luck with the build and whatever you do, ensure you don't scrimp on the controls and interfaces. I've said it many times before but the controls and the way it plays will ultimately make or break a good cabinet build.

[Marsupial]

Thanks for the reply guys.

I will need some help when it comes to controls, to ensure there's no blocks. I have seen a lot of posts talking about harnesses... and its making me confused

Where should I look to decide "where to buy" when it comes to the sticks and buttons? Also, what's with the 4 VS 8 directions sticks? I tought all we needed was a 4 direction stick.

You might be right, maybe I should just stick to the proven design of the Pac Man table; prevent bad surprises and all.

At this point I have an VGA monitor that I'll at least use for the testing phase, but would very much like a "real" monitor if I can get my hands on one.  Is there any valid sources for those in the Montreal area? I have seen some auctions in Toronto, but that's not "close" for us; its as far as New York City.
I might be in for trying to locate an old cabinet for the next project...

Looking trough mikes arcade, the super joystick - reminds me of the joysticks we had when I played my Commodore 64; great times. is that a good choice?
http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=SJOY
altough I might want my arcade cabinet to remind me the arcades, not the computer games. lol.

But seriously, I don't quite know what specs to look for the joystick.

Also, what's the pros and cons of getting pre-made CPs?
I feel like this set is an interesting deal:
http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPCTSET12

[apfelanni]

if ure starting from scratch u' d better take some time for planning . there are hundreds of cocktail designs , each with its advantage and disadvantages .  the pacman table may be a classic eyecatching little thing , but has its flaws . the monitor flipout panel is the real pain in da ass , one of the worst constructions in arcade history. its so far from rock solid,  that i probably wouldnt mount a crt in it . i own a astro invader cocktail and some details like reconstructing the metal panels had been no pleasure at all.

building table arcades is the real champions league .. like restoration of dedicated cabs . if ur control panel will be made of wood u dont have to go for a premade one . spare the cash for better sticks , buttons or monitor. i prefer sanwa seimitsu stuff . the happ china stuff i encountered so far have been a disappointment.

if u enjoy the look and feel of pacmantable maybe u should go with a prefab shell for a few hundred bucks .  i saw several of those on the us market.

[Marsupial]

To be honest, I have no idea what is good and what is not joystickwise with all the ones I have seen. Not having seen any first-hand, its hard to tell any difference; they are all a stick that pushes a bunch of switches. I guess the core difference is the construction of the pivot point, retaining system, springs?
It is not easy to know better before the first purchase.
That is why I am asking for advices.

As you mentionned, it is important to plan carefully; this is where I am at right now. I don't want to rush things and end up with something I don't like.
I know its important to decide early on what are our needs, likes and dislikes.

Need- Kid/toddler-friendly (Robust, no sharp angles, stable, user-friendly interface)
Need- face-on-face compatible for classic games
Wants- Arcade look and feel; particularly in the controls.
Wants- coin-operated (door preferably)
Dislike- headeach related to misconception
Dislike- paying for something I won't like or I will want to change.

We currently have "remainder" 3/4inch MDF that is to be used for the project; that's why I don't opt for a premade kit. I might decide to go that route for the next project  
I am certain to have more MDF then I need for the table, but the sizes of the available panels could influence some design decisions.

I want the controls to be great and the buttons to feel like the classic arcades I used as a kid.

Thanks for the info on the Pacman and MsPacman table design; I don't mind making the design myself if need be, but was under the impression that those pacman tables were pretty much bullet proof projects. What I do not want is to wonder halfway in the project how to finish it up. I want ennough room on the inside, and I don't want the integrity or stability of the table to be suspect.
I haven't seen other plans for cocktail tables (besides one custom with a look I am uncertain of, at instructables)
Are there other resources?


I want to go step by step; at this point I am planing the shell itself: the wood part of the cabinet. I will want to include the current monitor, but keep upgradability in my mind for the future.

Maybe I don't see the whole thing correctly, but like other hobbies, the planing phase is a lot of fun if done properly, but the first time you just don't know what you are getting into...

[JODY]

The most difficult part of planning may be deciding what controls you are going to have.  If you have specific games in mind with limited needs it may not be too bad.  If you want to support many games it can get unwieldy.  Some possibilities you can find other threads on include how many buttons, button layout, types of joysticks, spinners, track balls, specialized controls, and controls on how many sides of the cabinet.  What are you hoping to support?

[Marsupial]

I'd really like to keep the cocktail table classy and low profile.

One of the objectives is to introduce the toddlers to classic arcade gaming. My 4 years old daughter played pacman half an hour when we visited a store that sells all you might need for a pool room, she really enjoyed it.

I would like front-facing games as much as possible, a la space invaders cocktail... As far as I know there aren't many of those.

Controller-wise, I'll likely go for a few buttons and a stick on each side.

[wweumina]

Sounds like you can probably get away with 4-way sticks if you only want the classics and are going vertical orientation of the monitor (you lose 1942 though). Check out maws over at mameworld to see what games are available for different control setups. If you want some 8-way games and less hassle check out ultimarc for U360s. With a button harness you won't need a keyboard encoder.

[wweumina]

Btw if you do go with a vertical monitor setup there are still some 2-player horizontal games that play pretty good with the controls setup properly, Windjammers springs to mind.

[Marsupial]

What would be the benefits of using a 360?
Or even a 8-way?
At this point I plan on keeping in the classic 80s game, but if I decide later to evolve it...

At this point, I am thinking a switchable 4-8 way joystick:
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3890693&rnd=9268722&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=JStikBallTopRed&cat=switchtype&catstr=HOME:Ultimarc:switchtype

Good idea?


Monitor. Would it be a good idea to use a 23 inch CRT TV for the monitor?



For the CP, I'd likely mimmic something like that:


I am thinking of interfacing using the I-PAC2
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3890693&rnd=3794520&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=IPAC2Interface&cat=Arcadevga&catstr=HOME:Ultimarc:Arcadevga

sounds like a good plan?

[javeryh]

The benefit of using the 360 is that you won't have to switch between 4-way and 8-way or 2-way or 45 degree 4-way, etc.  Whatever game you load up the 360 will automatically act the way it should.  It is a great stick.  Also, I find that it is best not to confuse your guests - the stick should just work when they play. 

The one you linked to looks like it is switchable only from underneath your CP with a restrictor plate or something which means you would have to open it up every time you switched from say Pac-Man to 1942.  This would be highly annoying.  If you just used an 8-way you would not be able to really play any 4-way games with precision.  For example, if you were using an 8-way and playing Donkey Kong and pressed a diagonal (which you would be doing all the time), Mario would just freeze because he wouldn't know whether to go up or left.

If you are going for 80s classics, a 4-way stick will work but just realize that your gamelist will be limited.  I have about 30 games in my Donkey Kong cab which works great but I have other cabs to play other games that won't work on a vertical, 4-way, one button set up.   

[Turnarcades]

Most sticks these days are 4/8-way switchable and may be best for a build of this type, as the mechanical restriction of the plate will offer the best feel for classic games, but can open up to 8 when required which is the most common type of control. The U360's are considered the top-end of sticks but they are very expensive compared to other sticks, overkill for your needs and will not have the same feel as a mechanically-restricted stick.

I would definitely reccommend using a CRT in a cocktail build for reasons detailed in my last post, but be careful not to go too big as it's really not necessary in this type of cab so a 19" or 21" PC CRT will be the best if you can't get a similar-sized arcade monitor.

[Marsupial]

The one you linked to looks like it is switchable only from underneath your CP with a restrictor plate or something

I personally see that as a PRO, not a CON. Remember this machine will end up being used by the toddlers... I *know* my 2-year-old will *always* switch it off... lol.

I will want to set it to a single game, and leave the table as-is for a while - they'll earn the right to change game by themselves later in life.

I guess I could go with a 4-way stick as well; I don't quite mind the lower game library on this one - I plan on making a stand-up cab for more advanced gaming.

I would definitely reccommend using a CRT in a cocktail build for reasons detailed in my last post, but be careful not to go too big as it's really not necessary in this type of cab so a 19" or 21" PC CRT will be the best if you can't get a similar-sized arcade monitor.

At this point, I have a few 14" PC CRT, a 23" TV. I should have also a 19"SUN workstation CRT (trinitron CRTs are great) but the blue channel is dud; I don't quite know what to do. Anyone knows how to fix a broken RGB channel?
(that's if it is still in storage; I hope I never decided to throw it out)
Bad thing: this 19" weights about 2000 pounds and is very long; it is a longer tube then the 23"TV if memory serves.

I am definately keeping away from the LCD on that build, you're right about viewing angles. If what I currently have doesn't work, I know a place that used to have TONS of old style monitor. With luck they have something interesting. Might have to pay them a visit.


How more complex would it be to use a 360? It can't be as few connections as the 8-way switch style stick?

[javeryh]

How more complex would it be to use a 360? It can't be as few connections as the 8-way switch style stick?

LOL!  It plugs in via USB.  Pretty easy.  Also, if you get the wiring harness you can wire up to 8 additional inputs so no need for a keyboard encoder.  I sound like a U360 corporate shill, I know.   Sounds like you will be OK with the switchable stick though for your purposes - plus you could always swap it out later. 

[Marsupial]

Sooooo.... it is either 2x 4/8-way+buttons+harness -OR- a 360 + buttons.

Its fun to have possibilities.

But I think I'll go with the 4/8way switchable for restriction feeling sake, at least on that one; I am aiming for the 80's feel on that one.

BUT... I think the next one will be equipped with 360.

However, I need to ask how we avoid ghosts and blocks if we use a keyboard harness...

[drventure]

However, I need to ask how we avoid ghosts and blocks if we use a keyboard harness...

I'm not sure if you can, really. Besides. an ipac2 or 4 is pretty reasonable and will save a ton of headaches.

Heck, you might even be able to go with a GPWiz (the one with 16 LED outputs and 16 inputs) depending on how many buttons you'll have.

That's a nice looking cocktail to follow BTW.

[Marsupial]

Yeah, that cocktail is very nice - I am not necessarily following all of it, mainly its controls. But, it makes me want to make a nicer cocktail to put in the living room... lol.

I am thinking 8-way + buttons each side won't fit within 16 inputs; but I could think about 4-way + less buttons per players... However, maybe that's the newbie talk, I simply don't see light output as a great feature at this point.


On another note; I have spoken with the wife, who believe we should stick with the smaller PC monitor: its a 14 inch CRT - she thinks we should make a kid-sized cocktail.

Somehow, I didn't think of that.

[wweumina]

Remember 8-way stick is only 4 inputs. 

[Marsupial]

Yes, but unless I stay at 2 buttons/joystick, plus the 2 players, 2 slots and "ok" / "back" for the front end, I'm pretty much stuck. 16 inputs for 2 players is really not much.

Also, I don't really want lighted buttons or flashy lights, I can get more inputs for lower prices.

I might be going with
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=234
and add my own terminals.

what's the difference between the i-pac and the gp-wiz? I hate to not have the whole specs...

[wweumina]

If you've decided on 8-way then you probably want up to 4 buttons per player (unless the kids are interested in Street Fighter etc).  You won't go wrong with either I-Pac or Key Wiz. Just order from whomever has the other bits and pieces that you want.  You did say this build was meant to be about the classics in which case you probably want a 4-way and only a couple of buttons.  Have you decided on horizontal vs vertical monitor yet?

[Marsupial]

What I really want to put in is a 4-way controller; but I feel the 4/8-way is a better investment.
For the numbers of buttons, didn't defender have like 5 of them?


I never saw the real arcade, but played a lot on the Atari with its 1 button and 4-way controls. This game is why I am not certain of the button layout yet.  Between burger time / pac man and this one, there's a few differences.


I am thinking of ordering from ArcadeEmulator so I can order of the their low-priced coin doors
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3890693&rnd=6804848&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Small+Door+and+Frame+Assembly+&cat=Coin+Doors&catstr=HOME:Coin+Doors

[Dexter]

Marsupial,

Heres a photo of the control config on the last cocktail cab I built. It has both an 8 way joystick and 4 way at each end. Works really well. Doesn't use up any extra buttons on an i-pac either.

You would need an 11" wide panel though instead of the standard (?) 9.

I've also included the template I used to get the machining done. The left hole is a standard fire button sized cutout.

[Marsupial]

Hey Dexter, that cocktail looks great!

I was thinking about making wider CPs anyway, I don't see the point of making them too small.



What's the trick for making rounded corners on the glass?

[davieboynj]

had to put in a plug for my cabinet. 

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Dave%27s_%28not_so%29_Classic_Cocktail


I really wanted to go for something that didn't look like the side control panel was bolted on.  I essentially made a box for a monitor, and then left some room in the bottom/side for some hardware. 

tips:
1 don't mount the motherboard flat, as you'll find a way to kill it. 
2 count on the monitor to stiffen the assembly - make it part of the structure. 
3 trackballs are overrated.  there...  i said it. 
4 spinners aren't (better games, significantly less space)
5 lay out your control panel in cardboard first, and make sure its comfy. 
6 even a non-functioning coin door seals the deal. 
7 the side by side joysticks can definitely be 8-way joysticks.
8 the end ones definitely can't.  get ultrasticks. 
9 don't cheap out and use an ipac2 and share the controls from the side and end joysticks.  - kids will aggrivate the heck out of you by using the other panels while you're playing, and it prevents you from playing top down 4P games like gauntlet...

[Marsupial]

Thanks a lot for those tips!



I wasn't thinking about putting a side control at all... should I? Maybe I should simply do 2 side- controls, instead of 2 end- controls? That could be interesting.


I got thinking... the J-Stick. Its "switchable"  not changeable using a switch. Those sanwa restrictors, are they complex to convert from 4- to 8- way?

I am having second toughts, and thinking about getting these
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3586026&rnd=3551514&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=MagStikPlus&cat=switchtype&catstr=HOME:Ultimarc:switchtype
Are they any good?  Magnetically centered scares me a bit when it comes to the arcade feel.

I don't really want to end up being steered away from switching them because of it being too complex.


Side news, the computer I wanted to use for that build doesn't seem to want to boot anymore. I'll be looking for a new donor machine. Likely more recent then the one I was to use, so it might be good news afterall.

[Marsupial]

Hey Davieboy, the more I think about it, the more I believe I should make 3 CPs.

the 2 ends with 4-way; the side with 2-way.

Thanks for self-pluging your cabinet. I like it.

[Dexter]

What's the trick for making rounded corners on the glass?

Just get the glazier to make to the following specs (these match the cab kit I used)

(On the question of using a side c/p, You should definitely consider it. Even if you don't play 2 player fighters very often, it opens up all the newer horizontal games to you. Once the nostalgia wears off you'll probably find yourself sitting in front of the side panel most of the time.)

[VinceVega]

I'm coming close to completing my first cocktail as well, based on the Pac-Man design. There's one word of warning I can contribute that may save you a lot of hassle - internal space WILL be an issue, especially regarding the monitor. I'm using a normal-sized 19" CRT computer monitor and there's only about an inch and half of space all around the sides, and the tube extends about two thirds of the way to the bottom of the cabinet. I had to mount it upside down just to make space for the coin door.

I wasn't planning on decasing the computer but now I have to if I hope to include speakers. And I can pretty much forget about having a subwoofer in there.

I guess the takeaway is cocktail cabinets are much smaller inside than you think. Get your monitor and PC picked out and do a lot of measuring to make sure it all fits before getting started.

[Marsupial]

Vince, are you saying a 23 inch TV might be a bad idea if I am to keep a pacman style?

I want to check a few things before making final monitor decision, and the cab design will be finalized only after that. I am also worried about the proper way to secure the monitor inside.

Yesterday after I realised I needed to get a new computer motherboard, I started to look about mini-itx ones, I think this might be a good idea. It will depend what I can get locally and for what price. If I can spare some shipping charges...


I don't think I will start actual construction of the cabinet before late june or early july as we are moving early june; I still have time to plan. But before that happens, I still can start ordering required parts. I might even be able to work the CPs out if time permits.



Dexter: can they do this type of cut at the hardware store if we get the glass there? or are there more specialized stores for glass? now that I think of it, I never purchased glass before.

BTW I think you might be right about the side CP; I was thinking of making another cabinet for such games, but this won't be instant, and I'll want to play with the cocktail too. I showed the pictures of Davieboy's cocktail to the wife and she immediately said "nice, we could play fighting games"...

I think I'll be making something very similar.


Right now, I want to find the actual monitor I'll end up using; its an essential part of the equation if I want to be able to advance any type of design.

[apfelanni]

u can choose between 14 , 20,21 or 25( 23 )  inch tvs . each has its benefits. i recommend a 14 inch only for vertical setups or micromachines. for more satisfaction i would take the 20 ,21 inch screens . if ure planning all well u might go with a  25-(23) inch as well , but the tube is about 40-45 cm depth and not easy to mount in . i used a philips eak59 for my last table where it fits in 100 % , coz all was constructed around the monitor .    

most japanese or china brand sticks have 2-4-8 switchable restrictors , u dont need a special 4 o 2 way stick . there are only a handful games with real cocktail mode. u have 2 decide if its worth the effort . on the other hand a 2 player panel for horizontal games ( in case u choose the 20-25 inch tv ) add a few hundereds extra games . dont use a comp monitor with less than 20-21 inch for a 2p hori setup .

one advise for a selfbuild : keep the distance to the screen edge as short as it can be and the panel depth at minimum  . arcade tables usually suffer from a bad viewing angle by nature , so dont waste any inch for monster panels or exaggerated bezelnonsens .

[Marsupial]

I am tempted to make one of those micro arcade machines for the toddlers... I think they'd love it. But I want to be able to play too

Good news, I got the monitor.

I got my hand on a 19 inch samsung SVGA monitor. Now I need to figure out how I'll mount it and I'll be able to plan the rest of the cabinet body.

I tried to look on the forums, but I can't find out how to efficiently hold the cabinet in place for a cocktail - should I build a metal frame on which the monitor will rest?

[Dexter]

I am tempted to make one of those micro arcade machines for the toddlers... I think they'd love it. But I want to be able to play too

Good news, I got the monitor.

I got my hand on a 19 inch samsung SVGA monitor. Now I need to figure out how I'll mount it and I'll be able to plan the rest of the cabinet body.

I tried to look on the forums, but I can't find out how to efficiently hold the cabinet in place for a cocktail - should I build a metal frame on which the monitor will rest?

Marsupial,

Heres the way I've done it in my last 3 cocktails.

Put a low profile desktop case with the PC in it flat on the bottom of the inside of the case. brace it in place allowing airflow front and back. Turn the 19"SVGA monitor on its back but remove bezel or drill lots of holes around the screen bezel (Whichever allows you to leace the tube abd electronics in the outer plastic case) to let heat out that rises. Sit the upside down monitor on the PC case in the cab. Now do some measurements to work out how much you need to prop up the monitor from the PC base to get the right screen height towards the glass. When its in place, brace the monitor horizontally across the back of the case, outside of the tube neck..

I never took pictures of that part of the build unfortunately. But you can sit a ventilated towards the top 19" PC monitor flat on its back, on top of a slimline desktop pc case with room to spare.

[Marsupial]

so your monitor sits on the case inside the cab?

I didn't think about heat issues, thanks!



I am thinking of removing the plastic case from the monitor. I've check and in addition of a second "farrady cage" case, this specific model has some kind of mounting brackets. I am thinking I could have the monitor suspended on a frame, in order to be able to service the PC without removing the monitor. (maybe there's no need for that?)

here's what the monitor looks like once you remove its plastics:




note the RGB BNC connectors.

The front bezel eats up close to one inch, and the plastic at the back east about 1/2 or maybe 1 inch.
the rare pictures I saw of cocktail cabinets inside had some type of rails that was holding the monitor in place, with this type of brackets, would it make sense?

something strange about this monitor is its setting buttons...

they are in a slide-down panel!


I am thinking I might try to extend that thing and make it available when the top panel is openned, in case it could be useful.

[Marsupial]

Maybe I should post that next one in the monitor section? I haven't found an answer (but I guess it should already be covered, somehow)

I decided to look into its top-facing positionning and visibility. I didn't try it since the computer store I got it from; it did look "okay" there without more inspection (they had only this monitor in the "bigger then 17 inch" category and I was happy it looked good when hooked up, didn't look any more...)

Connecting it to the computer, the image is crisp, but somehow shadowy, like a ghost image doubled over the real image. Its subtle, but its there. You really notice it in notepad with the text. (I should take a picture...)
I tried another VGA cable, and its cristal clear / no ghost or shaddow. Something must be wrong with the cable it came with.

Short of buying another cable, is there anything I can do?
Maybe adding ferrite material at both ends of this one?

-EDIT-
posting in monitor lead to a good answer
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=102407.0

[Marsupial]

The more I think about it, the more I think I'll put spinners on the ends, and a trackball on the side.

Now... is there a way to get a somewhat not too expensive trackball?
I have seen a "mame kit" on eBay from someone in Ontario with a 2 inch trackball... the price is great and it comes with 2 8-way sticks and 16 buttons. Is it a good idea, or will I curse the 2 inch trackball later?

[Turnarcades]

Here is how we do the monitor and PC mounting in our Cocktail cabinets:



Basically, the monitor shell is de-cased as far as possible, then there are two additional interior panels to form a boxed section the size of the monitor. We then fit a square timber frame inside this boxed section which the remaining monitor bezel frame sits on and is then screwed into from the sides of the box. The PC is completely de-cased and mounted in one of the side sections next to the monitor; either directly onto the sides of the shell or on a removable sliding panel.

[Marsupial]

Thanks Turnarcades!

This looks a lot like what I had in mind of doing. It is good to see it works for others.
Is there ennough room in such side CP to add a trackball?  I am really looking to add a trackball. One of my favourites when I was a kid was Missile Command. However, I played the Atari2600 version, they didn't have it at the arcades here.

I must thank everyone who helped so far, raising the good questions here and there to make me refine what I want to do.
Planing is not complete, but its going in a good direction!
I think. lol.

[Turnarcades]

No worries.

Is there ennough room in such side CP to add a trackball?

On this design, yes. You need roughly 6" x 6" to house most 3" trackballs underneath a control panel (it's always the underside you need to consider) so with this control panel 6" deep (front-back) and Ultimarc's U-trak at just under 5 1/2" x 5 1/2" it fits nicely, but you have to consider the games you want to play and how vigorous they are to decide if it's practical. For example, golf games require big hand movements and rely on lasting spin of the trackball, so would be uncomfortable on this panel as you could bash your hand on other controls or the rear panel. You could adjust the sensitivity in the software but would it play the same? Similarly, games like Millipede or Missile Command don't require such big movements or loads of spin, but the rapid direction changes would mean either turning the sensitivity up so it follows small hand movement like a PC trackball or scraping your knuckles frequently.

Think about your gaming preferences first, rather than just trying to add things to impress others or just to fill space.