JAMMA to MAME: Orig cabinet's power supply?

[Jefferson]

Hey guys, I have a JAMMA cab with TMNT and Simpsons, and I'm putting a PC in there instead. I just got my AVGA3000 in the mail and I'll be tackling it soon, I'm just wondering what to do with the original cabs power supply? Its still going to power the coin reject lights and monitor, correct? Or do people wire the PC's power to take care of those? I thought itd go:

                                                      ___pilot slot > PC > PC power button wired to Happ button
WALL SOCKET > Smart Power Strip<
                                                       ___passenger slots > original power supply to monitor and coin door

BUT then I heard that by taking the PCB and harness out, you can't run the peripherals without screwing up the strength of the signal and frying your cab.

[DillonFoulds]

Not sure what others on here prefer BUT...

In my upright 4p, i gutted the original power supply, minus the external connector and the switch lines. I cut the end off a power bar, and wired it to the mains switch from the (now empty) stock power supply. What this accomplished for me, was moving the switch for the power strip to an already existing switch, and saved me having to perform a lot of rewiring.

From the power bar, it goes to a standard (ATX) power supply, the Isolation Transformer for my monitor, and the marquee light. I wired up what i like to call a "power distribution block" that gives me a few outputs for 5v and 12v. This gives me plenty of options for cabinet accessories (coin door lighting, ambient lighting, etc. etc.)

My speaker amp was taken from a 5$ pair of USB speakers, but I wired them to the existing speakers in the cab. No need for the big fancy sound systems that people put in their cabs. It's gonna be either me playing solo, or if we have guests there's always music on the main stereo anyways.
I power this speaker amp from the 5v line (via power distribution block, wired to a standard PC molex and then ATX power supply).

Like i said earlier, my monitor is plugged in to the power strip.

The only caveat to my design choice, was that if i were to remove the stock supply, it would leave a decent sized hole in the back of my cabinet. I went for the stock appeal.

YMMV; if you don't have any panels of your power supply exposed (such as my cocktail, the power cable runs up a hole in the bottom of the machine), you might consider something like the following:

Googling "IEC-320 switching Inlet" finally found me this picture. Perhaps someone has a source for such a device?

Edit: My brother has informed me the correct terminology would be an "IEC 320-C14 power entry module"

[Jefferson]

Thanks Dillon, unfortch a lot of that is greek to me. I havent really rolled up my sleeves and gotten to know the insides of my cab.

Is there a breakdown somewhere for 'cab power systems', for dummies? I haven't seen any stickies or wikis on it. And I don't really  know the correct nouns to search for. I'm just nervous I'll set my hand on fire.

how can you tell whats 5v or 12v etc?

[DillonFoulds]

Well, if you got a multimeter, that'd be a HUGE help to tell, turn your dial to DC Voltage (V---) your multimeter will vary, red probe on a live wire (not the insulation, but where it's soldered) and black probe on a ground line of the same power source.

Typical coloring is
5v - Red
12v - Yellow
-5v - Orange
Ground - Black

You would best off finding pinouts for your particular cab. It may have additional color codings for your equipment.

[Jefferson]

I'm in the US, I have a WG model #25K7131 (or "K7000"?) in my TMNT cab (its actually a dual Jamma with that and Simpsons)

I'm gutting the Jamma and installing a PC with I-Pac and ArcadeVGA3000. I'm assuming I can't just connect my AVGA breakout cable to the monitor and turn on the cabinets orig power and also the pc's orig power. Here are some pics of theings I'm trying to identify before I start taking out all the PCB and wiring.

Here's how I know the model #:


Is there any information here? I thought I'd die if I tried to dust it off:


Here's where the signal plugs into the monitor:


Here's my breakout cable, lined up according to the cable colors already present:


Here's a wide shot of the guts of my cab:


The left side, TMNT PCB


The right side, Simpsons PCB and Dual Jamma adaptor. The monitor is getting picture from some of the wires at the top of the adaptor (this might be common knowledge for some):


And here's the stuff that makes no sense to me. The scary power stuff. I dont know how much of this should be kept.


My plan right now is to unscrew all the Jamma PCBs and remove that wiring since I know they're ultimately gettin outta there.

I guess my question is, when I remove all the Jamma/CP gear, how can I ensure that the monitor and marquee are still SAFELY pulling power from cabs original wall plug? and that stuff isnt getting cooked? And how best to employ a smart strip so that powering on(/off) the pc will activate the orig cabs plug? Am I oversimplifying?

I'm headed out to buy a cheap multimeter from radioshack, I'd really like to sort out my power woes this week!

[Larrabee]

I am in a similar situation with my project: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=102623.0

I am just going to keep the power supply in there. I do not know enough to fool with the power. I don't mind using the ATX and the original power supply.

[Jefferson]

Thats cool, I heard you cant just remove some components (PCBs/buttons/monitor/coin door/marquee) from a cab though and use the orig power to power the remaining components without screwing stuff up. Is that true? If I can just remove what I dont want (PCBs and orig controls) and keep things as they are I wouldnt be nearly as stressed