Author Topic: fmzip's Space Invader's Pedestal in the works! (Read 10045 times)

fmzip · « **on:** March 14, 2015, 05:03:28 pm »

So our basement got flooded a few months ago and took out my old Mame pedestal. It really wasn't too bad, just delaminated the bottom inch or two. The insurance company allowed $2750 for a replacement so I decided it was time for another

So I fixed up the bottom few inches and threw it up on Craigslist for $1200 for the heck of it. It sold for $1200 in the very first day.

So with $3950 burning a hole in my pocket, I decided to start from scratch. I really wanted to have swapable control panel top, one layout exact to Defender/Asteroids/Missle Command . The other, your basic two player layout with trackball and spinner. I had bought a Stargate CPO years back so I'll use that for the layout.

So thus far I bought all my buttons and switches. I decided to go with GGG leafpros since I grew up in the 80's, micro switches just won't do. I also ordered a Turbo Spinner, a correct Defender joystick and Dominux8 4 way and also 8 way joys. Haven't decided on color of the trackball yet, one will likely be yellow and the other red.

fmzip · « **Reply #1 on:** March 14, 2015, 05:11:10 pm »

With the basement completely renovated, I picked up a Hitachi 42"LCD and built a light box for the marquee. After reading some else's post on here, I picked up some 5M Cool White 5050 SMD LED's off Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181089020410

along with an RF remote to control the marquee just in case I don't directly wire it to the PC. I picked up a 2.1 Vizio Sound bar at Sam's Club as well

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171560422989

fmzip · « **Reply #2 on:** March 14, 2015, 05:23:30 pm »

This is my pedestal base drawing. I wanted the pedestal to be bar stool height like my last one. It was a perfect height IMHO, great seated and great standing. 35" to the base of the CPO is the ticket!

Since I am closing in on the big 50 , I felt it would be wise to stick with an old school theme that I grew up with. Space Invaders it is! I had Vlad from Custom Graphix do the layout for me. I ended up tweaking the color of the planet to be yellow instead of orange so it matched the color of the walls in the basement. Always have to keep the wife happy

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Custom-Grafix/111293578954130?ref=stream&fref=nf

Brad Bowmen did the artwork. Great guy, arcade enthusiast as well. Highly recommended!

http://www.bowmansign.com/

Generic Eric · « **Reply #3 on:** March 14, 2015, 05:31:57 pm »

I'd like to know more on how you valued that at $2750 for insurance purposes? I mean, sorry for your loss and all, but that its awesome

Your plan looks cool.

fmzip · « **Reply #4 on:** March 14, 2015, 06:33:24 pm »

Actually the insurance gave me more than that toward it but they give you 75% cash. If you exceed the 75% and show them receipts, they give you the balance.

As the pedestal was custom, I provided them a link to http://www.mameroom.com/home.asp for a replacement

Last time around I had a woodworker friend of mine build the cabinet for me. I drafted it up and helped put it together. He has a full blown shop with everything. Back then, I ordered a SLik Stik classic and did all the electrical stuff, setup Mame etc.

This time around I decided to go for it myself. I invested in some other necessary tools.

Picked up this

this:

and this:

fmzip · « **Reply #5 on:** March 14, 2015, 06:40:19 pm »

So first I traced out my pedestal side

Then cut out the first side, next used the router for the first in my life ever!

Time to duplicate the other side

Once that was done, used the slot cutter. The router certainly was less intimidating than I feared. So far so good!

fmzip · « **Reply #6 on:** March 14, 2015, 06:51:09 pm »

Since I am using 3/4 mdf for everything except the base, I decided to set back the braces 1.25 inches to allow clearance for the T-molding. I traced that out all the way around the edges

Next, time to cut some wood

I decided to use my Kreg pocket drill kit to tighten things up

As my plan is to laminate the front and back, I'm plotting my course as to how to attach things as I move forward.

fmzip · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2015, 07:00:02 pm »

Final step of the day, I mounted some adjustable feet

I used these 2" pinball legs from http://www.marcospecialties.com/

johnrt · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2015, 07:48:03 pm »

Keep those WIP-pictures coming!

fmzip · « **Reply #9 on:** March 19, 2015, 09:20:30 pm »

Moving on.....

Applied the laminate I special ordered from Lowes and trimmed it up. Picked up a great tip on here as to how to cut the laminate with a mitered edge. Glad I purchased a bit with a bearing on both the top and bottom, made life easier.

Then I decided the easiest way to assemble it would be to first secure the bracing to the back of the front and rear panel. These Kreg pocket screws worked great as they have a washer like flange on them, way better than wood screws (used wood glue as well)

fmzip · « **Reply #10 on:** March 19, 2015, 09:31:46 pm »

Next, I marked a line around the perimeter for what would be the center of the bracing and used the Kreg Drill bit and made my countersunk holes

Next, I secured the bottom to the rear back side

Then with the edge of side panel overhanging the side of my workbench, I screwed in the side panel from underneath, the rest is in the pictures below

fmzip · « **Reply #11 on:** March 19, 2015, 09:35:00 pm »

I am so glad I laminated and didn't mess around with painting the whole thing. It just seems so much more finished laminated. As intimidated as I was with never using a router, it really was quite easy.

Question, what's the safest way to remove this label?? Can I use goo bgone? Should have put it on the inside!

a1pharm · « **Reply #12 on:** March 19, 2015, 10:07:36 pm »

Safest way: don't use any solvents - scrape, sand, scrape, sand... if you sand too much, fill it with wood filler or bondo and sand again.

Kind of safe way: water down some IPA (rubbing alcohol), maybe 50/50, and (after scraping) use a cotton ball w/ the mixture to take off the glue

Not so safe way: use undiluted IPA

Probably a bad idea: use acetone

Definitely bad idea: use chloroform

Congrats on the insurance windfall, I'm glad you're using it to improve on your design. The headache of dealing with the company + the other stuff ruined in your basement is a PITA, but at least there's a silver lining.

Cheers!

fmzip · « **Reply #13 on:** March 19, 2015, 10:32:37 pm »

Thanks for the input.

Yes, it was a bit of a PITA renovating the entire basement and replacing a good portion of the floor upstairs. I did practically everything myself. It made it easier when I calculated the $15K we got by the hours I put into it all.

Plus, a new arcade and power tools, what could be better!

a1pharm · « **Reply #14 on:** March 20, 2015, 02:14:54 pm »

A tree fell on my house the year we moved in. I used the insurance money to buy a boatload of tools and did all fixing myself. The leftovers were a generous (but fair) compensation for my time.

fmzip · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2015, 03:43:48 pm »

Today I sanded down the holes on the sides and then applied a coat of Rustolem black textured spray paint to the inner edges of the pedestal. It matches the textured of the laminate extremely well.

Then, I applied some Polycrylic with a foam roller to the bare mdf. I think I may be able to apply graphics and T-Molding tonight

fmzip · « **Reply #16 on:** March 21, 2015, 10:36:15 pm »

Planning on following this tutorial for the artwork, looks like a bit more work than just zipping through with an exacto on the edge

fmzip · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2015, 02:42:26 pm »

Here's the install of the artwork

I'll put the kick panel art on tomorrow

bfauska · « **Reply #18 on:** March 22, 2015, 04:43:29 pm »

Looking good. I like the way that side art tucked around the edges avoids exposing the wood near the t-moulding. It also seems like it may help prevent it from peeling or separating at the t-moulding.

fmzip · « **Reply #19 on:** March 22, 2015, 06:34:14 pm »

Quote from: bfauska on March 22, 2015, 04:43:29 pm

Looking good. I like the way that side art tucked around the edges avoids exposing the wood near the t-moulding. It also seems like it may help prevent it from peeling or separating at the t-moulding.

Thanks.

I agree, I was really concerned about cutting it square to the edge with an exacto. I was happy to stumble across the above link that showed using the heat gun. Seems to be the best way to do it.

fmzip · « **Reply #20 on:** March 23, 2015, 07:35:26 pm »

Kick art installed. Time to build a control panel

fmzip · « **Reply #21 on:** March 24, 2015, 08:19:50 pm »

My plan is to make 2 control panels one with a dedicated layout for Defender.

Here's the typical Defender CPO

Since I have a lot of extra real estate on the second control panel, any suggestions as to what I should have on it. The Defender joystick will be an original, up/down only so I will need at least one joystick. I am wondering if it's still possible to have the Defender layout AND a two player set up on this control panel.

Skrathe · « **Reply #22 on:** March 25, 2015, 06:27:07 pm »

I like the look of the thinner base you did.

fmzip · « **Reply #23 on:** March 25, 2015, 08:48:40 pm »

^^^Hey! who's is that?? I didn't realize someone already did this. It's the design I've seen on Ebay that I am trying to mimic but I wanted a height similar to what I already had, hence the higher pedestal. Any links to a build thread as I never saw that one while searching for a drawing/build thread. That one does look a bit stubby like it ate a bunch of invaders

Today I cut out my control panel. I cut a curved piece out of a 2x4' piece of mdf then used that as a template.

Took out the router with flush trim bit to clone it, the did the cut for the T-Molding

Got a few things from Amazon today for the back of the pedestal, power plug, Switchcraft HDMI pass-through. I couldn't find an 1/8 stereo jack, so I picked up a 1/4 one instead. Then I will use a 1/4 male to 1/8 male stereo cable to feed the sound bar

Skrathe · « **Reply #24 on:** March 26, 2015, 02:38:09 pm »

It's really a build thread but I got some pics on the Hyperspin forum.

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?34067-Pedestal-Cabinet-Project

fmzip · « **Reply #25 on:** March 26, 2015, 09:16:57 pm »

^^^ Nice Job!

Decided on the layout for the panel. Already have my original leafs from Bob Roberts

fmzip · « **Reply #26 on:** March 28, 2015, 09:05:12 pm »

Power outlet, Hdmi port and 1/4 audio jack installed

fmzip · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2015, 10:11:49 pm »

Guess my printer DOESN't print 1:1 to automatically!

Button holes are WAY too close! Time to start over

fmzip · « **Reply #28 on:** March 30, 2015, 10:33:03 am »

I really want to get all my holes drilled and routing done for my Joys but I am waiting on my parts.

I tried to locate a 1:1 drawing for the Omni2's /JLW's but I came up empty. The only thing I could find was this:

Drnick · « **Reply #29 on:** March 30, 2015, 01:11:40 pm »

Quote from: fmzip on March 30, 2015, 10:33:03 am

I really want to get all my holes drilled and routing done for my Joys but I am waiting on my parts.

I tried to locate a 1:1 drawing for the Omni2's /JLW's but I came up empty. The only thing I could find was this:

So I had an engineer friend draw me up a 1:1 template

But on the drawing it says 1:2 scale

fmzip · « **Reply #30 on:** March 30, 2015, 01:26:00 pm »

Quote from: Drnick on March 30, 2015, 01:11:40 pm

But on the drawing it says 1:2 scale

Fixed, good eye!

fmzip · « **Reply #31 on:** April 01, 2015, 09:55:18 pm »

Ah!

All the holes are drilled, Defender joystick is calling my name......

fmzip · « **Reply #32 on:** April 04, 2015, 01:16:48 pm »

Close to done!

CPO applied....

Guts installed!

Can't wait to play Defender and Asteroids with a dedicated control panel and original leaf switches!

Slippyblade · « **Reply #33 on:** April 04, 2015, 02:44:11 pm »

Oooh. Nice leaf switches. Since I seem to have missed it, where'd you get those and how much did they run ya?

fmzip · « **Reply #34 on:** April 04, 2015, 09:11:05 pm »

Quote from: Slippyblade on April 04, 2015, 02:44:11 pm

Oooh. Nice leaf switches. Since I seem to have missed it, where'd you get those and how much did they run ya?

Got them here awhile back

http://www.therealbobroberts.org/

fmzip · « **Reply #35 on:** April 05, 2015, 05:27:52 pm »

Got the wiring done

Can't seem to get Mame working.

This is what I get with windows XP and the latest version of Mame

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fotosbyfran/Space%20Invaders%20Arcade/IMG_0748.JPG

Slippyblade · « **Reply #36 on:** April 05, 2015, 07:56:52 pm »

You don't have a D3D compatible video system on that computer then. Put "-video ddraw" at the end of your command line. I bet it will work then.

fmzip · « **Reply #37 on:** April 05, 2015, 09:57:02 pm »

I have a pentium 4 with Rage 128 Pro?

Got it up and running with Mame 1.45.

I thought I'd be able to kick some butt with Defender, VERY rusty after 30 years

just bought this tool to adjust my switches

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518&parent=96


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Author Topic: fmzip's Space Invader's Pedestal in the works! (Read 10045 times)

johnrt