Author Topic: Arcade Button Light Switches (Read 22390 times)

Vigo · « **on:** June 07, 2011, 02:48:39 pm »

http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/06/arcade-button-light-switch-will-make-your-home-awesome/

(Don't ask me why it's in the bushes)

They are selling for $30 + shipping, so DIY might be a better option, but this might be the finishing touch needed in that game room.

Purchase link

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #1 on:** June 07, 2011, 06:53:41 pm »

I'm totally making these!

NiN^_^NiN · « **Reply #2 on:** June 07, 2011, 07:23:07 pm »

I saw these a few days ago and im trying to workout how i can make it as i couldnt even buy these if i had the money 240v down here im not sure i trust the type of switch he's using without more info

I have found some clipsal push button switches altho they cost as much as that persons selling so i will see how i go but i think this would look good replacing all the switches in the house it's different and looks good

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #3 on:** June 08, 2011, 08:46:08 am »

It shouldn't be terribly hard to make. Electronics aren't necessary. Get the low-profile light switches (those with a large plastic pad instead of a lever), remove the pad and use ultra low profile sanwa buttons. You'll probably have to dremel off the part of the button that holds the micro switch, but that's fine.... all you need is the little plastic tab that presses the m/sw.... it should be enough to trigger your light switch.

Of course this wouldn't work in homes with those crappy "slim" electrical boxes as the buttons and faceplate are going to add a bit of depth to the unit.

Gray_Area · « **Reply #4 on:** June 08, 2011, 09:29:19 pm »

This is such a ridiculous product, I'm beside myself. Someone drilled button holes and put in a different switch. On top of that, there's a reason light switches, even the large lever type, are 'up/down'.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #5 on:** June 08, 2011, 10:21:39 pm »

Quote from: Gray_Area on June 08, 2011, 09:29:19 pm

This is such a ridiculous product, I'm beside myself. Someone drilled button holes and put in a different switch. On top of that, there's a reason light switches, even the large lever type, are 'up/down'.

Vintage light switch:

mpm32 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 09, 2011, 09:05:23 am »

lol, I put vintage light switches in for every switch in my house.

Similar to the pic.

That's the way the switches were in the early days of electricity. I think the push button came after the rotary on/off switch.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #7 on:** June 09, 2011, 07:58:01 pm »

I remember those vintage pushbutton light switches in a house my family rented back in the early sixties. I was pretty young but still remember that.
And yes, I also remember dinosaurs on the lawn.

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #8 on:** June 10, 2011, 04:04:33 am »

Yeah the old-fashioned dual button switches were actually of superior quality, but they cost more to make so they were lost to progress. Loved the faceplates back then as well. Solid, 1/8 inch brass! Those things are beasts. The switches are long gone, but my grandma's house has one of the switches made during the "transition period" that actually fit blade switches and dual buttons. They are great.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #9 on:** June 10, 2011, 02:11:28 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on June 09, 2011, 07:58:01 pm

I remember those vintage pushbutton light switches in a house my family rented back in the early sixties. I was pretty young but still remember that.
And yes, I also remember dinosaurs on the lawn.

We were house hunting in 2007 and found houses that still had them.

lilshawn · « **Reply #10 on:** June 10, 2011, 11:36:06 pm »

Quote from: Vigo on June 07, 2011, 02:48:39 pm

(Don't ask me why it's in the bushes)

it's a current bush.... *cough cough*

...
...

*rimshot*

...
...

*crickets*

DaOld Man · « **Reply #11 on:** June 11, 2011, 08:22:16 am »

Actually, it wouldnt be too hard to make one of those arcade PB light switches.
You would need a blank cover (easy to find), two buttons, and a 120 VAC (or 220 VAC, depending on your houses light voltage) DPST relay that is small enough to fit in the box.
One drawback would be that if the power blinked the light would stay off.

lilshawn · « **Reply #12 on:** June 11, 2011, 11:18:00 am »

can i get someone to check my work... it's to damn early for saturday for me and stuff runs slow amirite?

kalars123 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 11, 2011, 12:04:37 pm »

reply ummm, i wouldn't use a micro-switch as a light-switch I'm pretty sure they aren't rated high enough amperage level. even with the relay, there would be enough juice going though the hot side to melt the micro-switch.

lilshawn · « **Reply #14 on:** June 11, 2011, 12:09:42 pm »

looks good to me...

DaOld Man · « **Reply #15 on:** June 11, 2011, 01:15:10 pm »

Im not sure I am following your circuit lilshawn, but here is how I would do it. (shown in electrical schematic using symbols for the actual components).
The relay has two NO contacts. Contact A turns on the lamp when the relay is on.
Pressing the ON button (normally open) turns on the relays coil.
The relay's Contact B holds the relay on when the ON button is released, thereby latching the relay (or sealing it) on.
Pressing the OFF button (normally closed) opens the circuit to the relays coil, thereby turning it off, thereby turning off the lamp.

None of the lamp's current goes through the pushbuttons.

Please note: if you use this circuit, be known that it is at your own risk! If you are not a qualified electrician well versed on National and local wiring codes, then please leave any house wiring to the professionals! Not only is there a shock hazard when messing with high voltage, but there are also fire hazards, if not done properly!

Donkey_Kong · « **Reply #16 on:** June 11, 2011, 01:33:44 pm »

Hey lil shawn...THANKS!

lilshawn · « **Reply #17 on:** June 11, 2011, 01:35:02 pm »

my relay was drawn as viewed from the bottom with the 2 coil connections on the bottom and one set of NO contacts on the top left and the other set on the top right... but yes, it's the same.

i need coffee....

lilshawn · « **Reply #18 on:** June 11, 2011, 01:39:14 pm »

oh yah... your own risk...bla bla bla... death...

DaOld Man · « **Reply #19 on:** June 11, 2011, 01:40:59 pm »

What would even be simpler is using a latching relay, but I cant find one small enough to fit in the box.
I wonder if you could use a touch dimmer switch? (Like the lamps you touch to turn on)

lilshawn · « **Reply #20 on:** June 11, 2011, 01:43:43 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on June 11, 2011, 01:40:59 pm

What would even be simpler is using a latching relay, but I cant find one small enough to fit in the box.
I wonder if you could use a touch dimmer switch? (Like the lamps you touch to turn on)

you could... just attach the "sense" wire through the switch to ground.

you should be able to find a touch module that's just off and on.

drventure · « **Reply #21 on:** June 11, 2011, 03:08:18 pm »

+1 for the touch sensor switch. They work great for applications like this, and they're already ULrated/sealed.

drventure · « **Reply #22 on:** June 11, 2011, 04:18:48 pm »

Wait, just noticed the first post..

I'd think what would be WAY easier (and likely safer) would be to pick up one of these

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=push+button+light+switch&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=29p&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1385&bih=649&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=14292214466080890207&sa=X&ei=sMzzTYffG8u5tgfG-YiRBw&ved=0CJABEPMCMAQ

and just refit the arcade buttons to the pushbuttons then glue them in place.

I googled "Pushbutton light switch" to find it. They are reproductions of old style lightswitches.

Vigo · « **Reply #23 on:** June 11, 2011, 05:26:17 pm »

the cheapest I see those are for about $20 after shipping on amazon. tack on the extra money for the buttons and the labor, and you might as well just spend a couple bucks more to get the ones from that vendor.

Now if there are any hardware stores that sell those antique lights switches for cheaper, that is a game changer.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #24 on:** June 11, 2011, 05:57:53 pm »

They old style switches retrofitted with arcade buttons wouldnt "feel like" arcade buttons.

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #25 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:24:54 am »

Just for the record, I wouldn't reccomend using relays or anything complex in house wiring. Many times it isn't UL approved (the circuit, not the individual components) and if your house were to ever burn down it could screw you out of the insurance money.

Any modifications need to be cosmetic in nature. I agree btw... old-style switches would be much too stiff. My suggestion is still the best atm.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #26 on:** June 12, 2011, 09:44:45 am »

Quote from: Howard_Casto on June 12, 2011, 08:24:54 am

Just for the record, I wouldn't reccomend using relays or anything complex in house wiring. Many times it isn't UL approved (the circuit, not the individual components) and if your house were to ever burn down it could screw you out of the insurance money.

Any modifications need to be cosmetic in nature. I agree btw... old-style switches would be much too stiff. My suggestion is still the best atm.

Good point Mr. Casto!
I totally agree with you. If you buy something already made, then at least you can fall back on the manufacturer if a fire occurs and the insurance company blames it on the device.
So, even though the relay would work, and if properly wired and installed, would be safe, it stands to reason that you would have to know what you are doing before attempting it, and be aware that the insurance company will be looking to find something to get them off the hook if a fire does occur. (Makes me wonder about some of the wiring tricks on the arcade machines too.)

So, also for the record, if anyone uses my above circuit, be known that it is at your own risk! If you are not a qualified electrician well versed on National and local wiring codes, then please leave any house wiring to the professionals!

lilshawn · « **Reply #27 on:** June 12, 2011, 12:39:28 pm »

question... if you purchase the above product for 30 whatever dollars, and install it in your house and it catches fire, would that not fall under the responsibility of the maker since he was providing the service of the product?

DaOld Man · « **Reply #28 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:41:09 pm »

Im no lawyer... but I would say that the manufacturer would be responsible.
Unless there was a disclaimer printed somewhere in the advertisements (fine print, website, etc).
But then again, I simply dont know.
Dont we have a new lawyer on this board? Maybe he can give his opinion.

lilshawn · « **Reply #29 on:** June 12, 2011, 09:15:12 pm »

Quote

We are so excited that you are interested in our custom made light switch. Due to high demand it may take a few weeks for us to get it to you. Thanks so much for your patience.

WHAT YOU GET:

This is a working custom light switch made from push buttons that go on Arcade Machines. Just install like a regular light switch. It is perfect for game rooms, kids rooms, or any room around the house.

Please convo us if you would like light switch in different colors.

HERE'S WHAT TO DO FIRST:

Step 1....
Purchase design

Step 2...
Email color and any other specifications, or questions to
alephdesign.etsy [!at] gmail.com.

DETAILS:
-2 way switch (15A-120/277V AC/CA)
-Install in deep electrical box
-Button colors: green, red, yellow, blue, white, black, purple, orange (Please let us know which color buttons you would like for the on and off positions)
-Plate colors: white, black, cream

***INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK. WE HAVE MODIFIED THIS LIGHT SWITCH, AND IT IS NOT A FACTORY PIECE. WE HAVE USED IT FOR YEARS, AND HAVE HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH IT.**

just as good a disclaimer as any i guess.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #30 on:** June 13, 2011, 04:48:53 am »

So I take it that it's not UL tested.
Also it mentions a deep box, so if you order this, just be aware that it may not fit a standard wall box.
Im not sure if it will fit or not, but Im sure they mentioned it for a reason.
Changing a wall box to a different one is a pretty big job if both sides of the wall are finished (covered in sheet rock or whatever and painted.)
Before ordering, I would ask them how deep the box needs to be, turn off the power to the light you plan to use it on, remove the switch and measure your box for depth. (Remember wires inside the box need room too. Crowding the wires can make them get hotter.)

But I still like this idea, and if you used the shorter length buttons and used a UL tested switching device I think it would be OK.
I may look around and see what I can find, but I havent got that pay phone for my cave yet, so it may be awhile. LOL

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #31 on:** June 14, 2011, 06:38:20 am »

Quote from: DaOld Man on June 12, 2011, 08:41:09 pm

Im no lawyer... but I would say that the manufacturer would be responsible.
Unless there was a disclaimer printed somewhere in the advertisements (fine print, website, etc).
But then again, I simply dont know.
Dont we have a new lawyer on this board? Maybe he can give his opinion.

Responsible? Yes of course. Would they eventually end up paying for any damages? 50/50.

They would almost definately be responsible, but it isn't like the insurance company will help you out with this or anything. You would most likely have to sue the company. In this case the "company" probably consists of a couple of guys so you wouldn't get much and if you did it would probably ruin the poor guys.

If I can rustle up the time/parts I will cobble something together that simply uses buttons to switch a UL-listed switch. Probably isn't going to happen atm though.

Vince839 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 15, 2011, 06:22:18 pm »

LILSHAWN

I want one of those 100CD Jukebox to MP3 converters. I tried to reply on the other post, but was unable to. My email address is vince839@aol.com

Thank you

Vince

boardjunkie · « **Reply #33 on:** June 17, 2011, 07:04:47 pm »

How 'bout a simple triac circuit instead of a relay?

shmokes · « **Reply #34 on:** June 17, 2011, 11:13:12 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on June 12, 2011, 08:41:09 pm

Im no lawyer... but I would say that the manufacturer would be responsible.
Unless there was a disclaimer printed somewhere in the advertisements (fine print, website, etc).
But then again, I simply dont know.
Dont we have a new lawyer on this board? Maybe he can give his opinion.

Manufacturer would be responsible. Generally speaking, to be liable for injuring someone there has to be some negligence on your part. But with consumer products manufacturers and distributers have strict liability for damages caused by product defects so long as you're using the product as it was meant to be used, or in a way that the manufacturer should reasonably have anticipated. Strict liability means you're on the hook even if you weren't negligent. In short, the things you sell can't hurt people.

More or less, anyway. It's been a few years since I studied product liability.

As Howard said, though, you may never get any money. If the guy isn't insured (or independently wealthy) the best you could do is maybe take his house and force him into bankruptcy. Maybe have him put in jail if he was recklessly negligent or something.

JustMichael · « **Reply #35 on:** June 18, 2011, 08:32:47 pm »

Why 2 buttons? Why not one of those buttons you push it to turn on and push it again to turn it off?

lilshawn · « **Reply #36 on:** June 18, 2011, 08:52:46 pm »

Buttons?! I just screw in the bulb to turn it on and unscrew it to turn it off. XD

SavannahLion · « **Reply #37 on:** June 20, 2011, 01:00:14 am »

UL listing is exorbitantly expensive. It takes oodles of cash just to pay the lab. And last time I checked, it takes quite a bit of time if you're not one of the bigger companies.

This is why it's not uncommon to find "high end" audio equipment with no UL tags whatsoever. Many of the cottage manufacturers can ill afford to pay the fees to the lab. Even less so when they need to pay those fees to multiple countries for whatever version of the UL those outside the U.S. use.

I wouldn't normally bat an eye if I have non-UL qualified equipment (I don't recall seeing the UL tag on any arcade cab that I own

) but I would be hesitant to install anything that's not UL listed into something that's intended to be a permanent fixture of my home. Or more accurately, anything that's not going to pass inspection as a permanent fixture in my home. Owning and maintaining a home is aggravating enough, I don't need to have ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- installed that's going to cause headaches for me down the road.

Quote from: JustMichael on June 18, 2011, 08:32:47 pm

Why 2 buttons? Why not one of those buttons you push it to turn on and push it again to turn it off?

They've been around: Honeywell's Tap-Lite and TouchPlate Genesis and a third more-or-less recent kind involving a bare metal plate. There's even one that's just a straight forward sensor plate that can be hidden behind wall paper or even tile.

To start, there's no real indicator of state other than the light itself. If the light burns out or if the power goes out, then you have no idea what state the circuit is currently in. On a low voltage system like Tap-Lite, that might not be too bad but on a high voltage system... replacement and repair can get kind of ugly. Actually, now that I think about it, finding and replacing a relay might be ugly too.

And some, like the metal touch or sensor plate, people get kind of cute and hide them for some seriously lame reasons. Knew one guy that hid his in the metal work on his kitchen wall. It was annoying trying to find the light switch at 2AM all because I wanted a drink of water.

Not to say they're all bad. For some applications, they work well. I've got one for the closet door. Open the door, the light turns on. Close the door, lights turn off. There's a ball bearing N.O. switch in the door. I love it so much that I would love to get them for all the closets but I can't make heads or tales of who made them and no one at any hardware store knows what I'm talking about. The ball bearing looks almost identical to these ball bearing catches but there's no corresponding catch plate.

Quote from: lilshawn on June 18, 2011, 08:52:46 pm

Buttons?! I just screw in the bulb to turn it on and unscrew it to turn it off. XD

Ugh... As a kid, I have burnt my fingers many times turning off the lights doing that.

MonMotha · « **Reply #38 on:** June 20, 2011, 01:19:46 am »

Many (perhaps most) jurisdictions in the USA do not require that electrical devices used within them be UL listed. There are some notable exceptions, such as the City of Chicago, and some of these allow alternate certifications. Contrary to what seems to be fairly common belief, UL is a private entity. Most governments are loathe to give such an entity full and absolute control over what can and cannot be used within their area of control.

UL is also indeed hideously expensive and complex. I've looked into buying their standards in the past, and, even if I ponied up the rather large amount of money to get them, I'm not sure the license agreement would allow me to read them. CSA international offers similar certifications, and they're a lot cheaper. Many product development houses work with CSA to get things working to their certifications, then submit to UL in order to minimize costs.

The UL's tests are generally good, though. You can generally have reasonable confidence that, should a device bear a (legitimate) UL listing, it's probably reasonably safe in normal usage.

The only standards that electrical devices are generally legally required to comply with in the USA are the FCC's requirements for electromagnetic compatibility and the NEC. Certain industries have their own standards they enforce or generally require. Many insurers of commercial or industrial installations may require that all electrical equipment be listed with some suitable testing agency such as UL or CSA. I wouldn't expect to find this in a residential insurance contract, but of course ask your insurer.

Building to UL, CSA, etc. standards is generally a good idea, of course. Egregious mistakes or failing to follow "generally accepted good engineering practice" could land the maker in hot water over liability issues.

SavannahLion · « **Reply #39 on:** June 20, 2011, 10:36:08 am »

Thanks, that's why I added the qualifier. I just couldn't remember which alphabet soup entity is required.


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