Recent Posts

Hi Geecab i hope you are doing good. I managed to figure out how to get "hdrivairp" to load the game properly so it's fully playable now, the code i submitted to github was edited by one of the MAME guys called "happppp" so that it was in the appropriate place and i think it has been added to mamedev/master build now. I think they may have renamed the rom to be "hdrivair0" now in mame.

I figured out if you ran the "DS IV GRAPHICS PROGRAM AND DATA RAM TESTED BY 68010" in the games test menu and then exited it that the game would play fine without the "BAD POLY BUFF ERROR" happening. I was curious why this was happening and wanted to reverse engineer the behaviour into a code patch for MAME so that the game could be played by everyone without having to enter the test menu. I made a logger that would write what the game was doing to a log file when the test was running and i figured out that the 68010 seeds the ADSP DM 0x0000–0x1FFE with "0x5555" before writing the sync address. I made a code that done the same thing on boot and it worked but it included a couple of extra things that didn't need to be there and it was in the wrong place so happppp sorted it out for me and added it into the mamedev/master branch.

I also found a bug in MAME last year where the "mainpcb:user4" ROM's were being loaded as "ROM_LOAD16_BYTE" instead of "ROM_LOAD32_BYTE" so that is what was causing the problem i described earlier in this thread where the car would just drive through the roads and act as if it was "off road" all the time. When they are loaded in the correct format the game works fine. I had made a commit on MAME last year with that fix but it was forgotten about but that has now been added into mamedev/master too so the game is now playable.

I would adivse that you turn off the microphone in the test menu i think it's called "champ voice" or something like that. If you leave it on when the game tries to record your voice it will cause the sound to glitch with a horrible noise.

My cat died last year around the time i was messing with this game and i guess i was depressed and stopped experimenting with MAME so thats why i was not around for ages i just started messing around about a week ago. I tried making a account on the bannister forum but the admin never approves it, i seen the commits you made to your branch of MAME last year on there and was wondering if you will push it to the mamedev /master? It's the one that fixes the steering for the compact versions of the machines so the car doesn't loose track of the centre point.

Nothing wrong with the name but I'm not sold on the logo. At the very least I think the lightning bolt should look more like the letter "A" (but still be yellow and stand out and look like a lightning bolt). Or maybe pick a different letter that looks more like a lightning bolt?

You also have room to keep both words on one line. The thin blue and purple lines around the words don't look like they are spaced properly (could be the angle) but at the very least I would make this symmetrical - there is a 90 degree bend around the "B" but then two 135 degree bends around the "R", for example.

I really like "Spin, Move, Action Roll" with the lines around the controls and the subtle circuitry in the background.

Cab is coming out so nice that I was inspired to clean my workspace/garage yesterday so I can get back to building something!   

I would bet 480x270

no NINJA GAIDEN - Ragebound is showing some bad pixels with that resolution like letters artifacts while moving etc...

NINJA GAIDEN: Ragebound Demo anyone?

You can easily find out for yourself.

On a standard monitor:

In the game options, set it to the x1 window mode, where 1 pixel on your monitor is 1 pixel in game.

Run and inject Special K, open the OSD, read the window resolution.

That is the resolution of the game. Make that as a custom resolution

I did that opened the game on my pc monitor and i switched the game to windowed also did Alt+Enter, Special K when accessing OSD with Ctrl+Shift+Backspace in resolutions it's not showing me the resolution that i should be using on the CRT TV, it's only showing the resolution of the window and what do you mean by set it to the x1 window mode in game options there is no such option in the game there is only windowed and it lets you choose a resolution, what did i miss?

Looks like its 854x480
50% downscaling would be 427x240

I haven't tried myself so its just guessing at this point.

Yoke and 25 degree test print mounted on scrap 1/2" plywood using 1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" carriage bolts.






Scott

3d Printed SW Yoke Mounts 2.


Scott

This is making me twitch.

I recently found out about this arcadeEIP. It looks great. I'm searching for a long time for launcher that can just launch games as a "screensaver". However, I have a mame cabinet with original CRT screen (so 15khz low resolution) mounted VERTICALLY. The same setup as the original arcade games where in the eighties. The cab does run a pc with windows. I'm wondering if arcadeEIP could support this vertical setup? Because like it is now, the game menu will probably displayed from top to bottom on this vertical screen.
Many thanks

Still have the marquee and boxes available.

So the question is...  What type of buttons,  and what is the control panel material that you are screwing them into? (material type, and rough thickness)

I"m using HAPP compatible push-buttons for my last built, into 5/8" MDF where it is pretty smooth behind the push-buttons.

Also... are you putting the button nits Upside-Down? The flat edge
needs to be touching the Control Panel.

The push-buttons I'm using have a nut with an edge that is smooth on one side, and has small bumps on the other. If I understand what you're saying, the smooth side should go towards a smooth edge, while the bumps could/would be used to nestle into a rougher surface for a more secure fit.

If these were some cheap Chinese buttons... make with poor quality threads... then maybe I could see the issue.

It's possible - now that you say this, I had this happen with Sanwa clone LED push-buttons and am unsure of how frequently it happened/happens with my HAPP clone vinyl push-buttons. So, perhaps it's my perception at fault here.

I think you've given me some good ideas. I think - barring the fact that it SHOULD stay firmly tight throughout it's lifetime with a good wrench tightening - that I am going to install some rough duct tape behind the control panel, and cut an X where each hole is. That will give the nut a bit better bite into the surface, I believe.

If my idea works, I'll post back.

Thank you for the ideas!

Rick... I used to manage a Namco Mall Arcade.   It was incredibly rare that HAPP arcade buttons would EVER come loose.
I was there for just shy of 3 years.   And many of the machines were there for over a decade.

So the question is...  What type of buttons,  and what is the control panel material that you are screwing them into?
(material type, and rough thickness)

If you are trying to screw your buttons into a smooth plastic / melamine surface... then the button nuts wont be able to
dig into the Surface.

Also... are you putting the button nits Upside-Down ?    The flat edge needs to be touching the Control Panel.

If the mounting surface Is too smooth... use Coarse Grain Sandpaper or a sanding disc with coarse grain... to rough up
the under-surface of the Control Panel.  By making the Surface Rougher... the Button Nuts will Grip onto the surface
much tighter / better.

One shouldnt have to use any glue, nor tape... to get the button nuts to stay tight.  Especially if you used a wrench / channel locks!

Personally, Im guessing its an upside-down nut situation... as most push-buttons are coarse thread, and Grip really tightly,
when tightened well.


If these were some cheap Chinese buttons... make with Poor quality threads... then maybe I could see the issue.
In that case, potentially use Lock-Tight Thread-Locker.   Plumbers Tape might help.. but it might take a decent amount of it,
as those threads are often deep.

Hot Glue is sort of a last resort option.   It can cause damage to wood CP's, if you remove it poorly.
(always use a glue-guns high heat and a chisel, to melt + scrape it away... rather than ripping it off)

I would NOT apply Hot glue to the actual Threads!  But instead... just a small amount between the Nut and the
Control Panel surface (under-side).  A blob just big enough to keep the nut from Turning.

Of course, if this is a plastic / melamine surface... even hot glue may have trouble sticking to it.  Rough Sanding would still
likely be required.

Heck, you could likely also use a small bit of Clear Grease, with a small amount of sand mixed into it.  The sand would
add Grip to the threads.   That said... coarse sand is semi-destructive (abrasive)... and could cause eventual Wear,
if you were tightening / removing them repeatedly.