Question on installing t-molding

[RobbyMac]

I'll be embarking on installing tmolding soon and have some questions...

5/8" particle board, painted. 5/8" t-molding from tmolding.com (and their recommended slot bit). Ultra arcade II style basically (some sharp corners)

a) What sort of glue is recommended. just wood glue?

b) do I dry fit/cut first, then re-install after it's all cut? and if so then...

3) After painting the edges, I noticed its a little tight. I can definately get in there, but should I be concerned about tear-out when I pull the mmolding out to glue and re-install?

[Franco B]

You shouldn't need to use glue if you have the right size slot cutter which it sounds like you have. You only need to use glue if its very loose and in that case you would want to use hot glue.

You should be able to install and remove the t-moulding a few times without it causing any problems.

If you feel that it is too tight you can always set your slot cutter height fractionally off center and then run the cutter over both sides of the work piece to give a slightly wider but central slot. However if you have purchased the right size cutter for the slot then you should be fine. I have had to use this method when using a metric cutter with imperial t-moulding.

Edit: Dang spelling 

[RobbyMac]

DOH! Hot glue gun, that will come in handy.
Yes, its pretty tight... the paint may have tightened it a bit more.
I do have 2 spots where the router coked a little on my and had to make a second pass nice and square. The gap is a little wider in thise two spots, so the glue gun will help there. I've been too afraid to put it in anywhere else after all the work and paint that went into it. But if I can safely remove and re-insert, then that gies me piece of mind.
Thanks

[fixedpigs]

how are you installing the t-molding...?

you should be hammering it in...preferably with a rubber mallet...a deadblow mallet would be perfect...

otherwise...a regular hammer and a piece of cardboard would work well...

hammer it until it is flat & move on until all of the t-molding is installed...

 

ps...if your t-molding is made out of wood...then wood glue might be the best choice for glue...

[Epyx]

Agreed on the rubber  mallet. However, I would also add a cloth doubled over and wrapped around the rubber mallet and taped on the handle. This will lessen the impact and make it much more blunt than the rubber mallet alone (as the mallet alone can still cause dents in the t molding).

[ami-man]

Hi,

I would use some scrapwood on the molding between the mallet a piece of 2 x 1 around 6 to 8 inch lond would be ok for all the straight lengths and use it sideways on any corners.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[eds1275]

When installing T-Molding around outisde corners, do you need to trim the spine or does it all compress in there? When doing inside corners, do you slice the spine to allow free movement without pulling?

[RobbyMac]

fyi mines done now. the tips all worked well
Yeah, for outside corners, I trimmed the spline at angles on either side of where the corner was. ie, 90 degree corner meant 2 45 degree cuts so when they went around the corner they made a 90. This was not at all very precise, and I trimmed back a bit further than needed, and more of an angle than needed. the hot glue helps in areas like this alot.

On inside corners, or inside rounds I would make cuts into the spline so they would 'fan out' when making the angle or round. on my inside rounds for the cabinet top (where it runs up the screen, then curves out to protrude/support the speaker shelf) I did several cuts into the spline about 1/4" apart from each other for the entire length of the bend.