Its Here: Ultimarc AimTrak Light Gun Module

[ammitz]

I can't resist this anymore.. need to order one. 

I know, have it the same way, I'm building my first cab right now, so I would be a perfect time.
But I'm in a limbo waiting , because I-would like to see how Andy's gun-combo looks and costs.

BTW this was post nr 400 in this topic

[Ed_McCarron]

Hm, still working out kinks.  Ran driver.bat, no more HID error, but no response from the gun at all.  The config utility crashes - I suspect .net is not installed on that machine.

Baby steps.

Tonite, I install .net and try again.

Andy, one other thing I'd mention.  1.5m on the LED board cable is a bit short for the typical install -- PC in bottom of cab, monitor a few feet above.  I just stuck a powered hub up there to power it.

[Ginsu Victim]

Andy, one other thing I'd mention.  1.5m on the LED board cable is a bit short for the typical install -- PC in bottom of cab, monitor a few feet above.  I just stuck a powered hub up there to power it.

Yeah, I wound up using the included extension cable for it, since the one for the gun was just the right length to work. (Only if you have a smaller monitor like me and only need to be 2 ft away...)

[AndyWarne]

Hm, still working out kinks.  Ran driver.bat, no more HID error, but no response from the gun at all.  The config utility crashes - I suspect .net is not installed on that machine.

The driver.bat file has nothing to do with the function of the gun. Its not necessary to run this.
What I suspect is happening is the device has gone into "firmware upgrade mode" not sure why. But this can be resolved. Best drop me an email. andy@ultimarc.com

[bkenobi]

I've noticed in a couple of the installation pics people have posted that, on the LED bar, the LED's don't seem to be aligned perfectly straight.  I was wondering if this is required or if those could be straightened out when installing.  If I take the plunge, I will be mounting this behind my cardboard bezel and would much prefer a straight line of holes as opposed to the wavy one that the pics show.  Function first obviously, but image is important too!

[Drakin]

Hm, still working out kinks.  Ran driver.bat, no more HID error, but no response from the gun at all.  The config utility crashes - I suspect .net is not installed on that machine.

Baby steps.

Tonite, I install .net and try again.

Andy, one other thing I'd mention.  1.5m on the LED board cable is a bit short for the typical install -- PC in bottom of cab, monitor a few feet above.  I just stuck a powered hub up there to power it.

I've come across this same problem last night...please post the results if resolved.

Though I have .net installed
Thanks

[Neverending Project]

I've noticed in a couple of the installation pics people have posted that, on the LED bar, the LED's don't seem to be aligned perfectly straight.  I was wondering if this is required or if those could be straightened out when installing.  If I take the plunge, I will be mounting this behind my cardboard bezel and would much prefer a straight line of holes as opposed to the wavy one that the pics show.  Function first obviously, but image is important too!

If you're referring to my bezel installation, the LEDs were actually straight before I put it behind the bezel. The holes I made were slightly out of line due to my, ahem, crude manufacturing technique (power drill to drill through cardboard). But they are very close to straight, and seem to work fine.

Also, the LEDs are raised from the board enough to be able to bend or direct them as needed. Which is why they fit my slightly wavy holes. But it arrived perfectly straight.

[syph007]

Andy, one other thing I'd mention.  1.5m on the LED board cable is a bit short for the typical install -- PC in bottom of cab, monitor a few feet above.  I just stuck a powered hub up there to power it.

Yeah, I wound up using the included extension cable for it, since the one for the gun was just the right length to work. (Only if you have a smaller monitor like me and only need to be 2 ft away...)

I noticed the same thing.  I ended up just extending the cable to a molex connector and powered it directly from the power supply.  Only needed the 5 volts (red) wire and ground (black) wire connected.

[smalltownguy]

I've noticed in a couple of the installation pics people have posted that, on the LED bar, the LED's don't seem to be aligned perfectly straight.  I was wondering if this is required or if those could be straightened out when installing.  If I take the plunge, I will be mounting this behind my cardboard bezel and would much prefer a straight line of holes as opposed to the wavy one that the pics show.  Function first obviously, but image is important too!

If you're referring to my bezel installation, the LEDs were actually straight before I put it behind the bezel. The holes I made were slightly out of line due to my, ahem, crude manufacturing technique (power drill to drill through cardboard). But they are very close to straight, and seem to work fine.

Also, the LEDs are raised from the board enough to be able to bend or direct them as needed. Which is why they fit my slightly wavy holes. But it arrived perfectly straight.

Yeah, same for me too. I can't drill 5 holes the same either. *ahem*    But the overall effect is still 5 perfectly straight LEDs.

[smalltownguy]

Hm, still working out kinks.  Ran driver.bat, no more HID error, but no response from the gun at all.  The config utility crashes - I suspect .net is not installed on that machine.

Baby steps.

Tonite, I install .net and try again.

Andy, one other thing I'd mention.  1.5m on the LED board cable is a bit short for the typical install -- PC in bottom of cab, monitor a few feet above.  I just stuck a powered hub up there to power it.

I've come across this same problem last night...please post the results if resolved.

Though I have .net installed
Thanks

+1 for me too on the short cable. 

[Minwah]

You can fit the Aimtrak into a Nintendo Zapper.  It just takes a lot of filing.

The clicky-clicky trigger mech from the Zapper is too fast for the hardware/software to recognize as a mouse click.

My (£1.73!) Zapper showed up today...have got the AimTrak inside it too with some mods to the plastic. However my trigger seems to works fine even when pulling it all the way making the 'click'.

I haven't tried it on my cabinet yet but this is on my XP desktop...

[Ginsu Victim]

Now you need to make a layout for Mamewah where we can shoot screenshots to start the game.

[syph007]

I really want longer USB extension cables for my guns.  I dont want any joints, just one nice long cable from gun to cab.  I ordered 2 of these today, I'll give them a try.  5M is longer than I need, but I couldnt find anything in the 3M range.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.17368

[Neverending Project]

I plan on getting a couple of these. This should be long enough to go from the sensor board in the gun all the way to the CP. I figure I could wrap the word or tie a knot as a strain relief in the handle.

[Minwah]

Now you need to make a layout for Mamewah where we can shoot screenshots to start the game.

Might actually be possible to use the gun as a mouse and trigger to start game...but not really what you want

[Ginsu Victim]

Now you need to make a layout for Mamewah where we can shoot screenshots to start the game.

Might actually be possible to use the gun as a mouse and trigger to start game...but not really what you want

Well, yeah, I knew that much (and knew you'd say it). 




 

[bkenobi]

Sorry, didn't mean to knock anyone's builds.  I figured it might be an intentional design since there were 2 different pics showing the same LED's (I think) bent slightly.  I was kinda thinking it would be cool to use some of that tinted plastic material the Radio Shack project boxes include for the IR stuff (or something else that's similar).  That way the LED's aren't visible and the bezel still looks original'er.

[Ed_McCarron]

Hm, still working out kinks.  Ran driver.bat, no more HID error, but no response from the gun at all.  The config utility crashes - I suspect .net is not installed on that machine.

The driver.bat file has nothing to do with the function of the gun. Its not necessary to run this.
What I suspect is happening is the device has gone into "firmware upgrade mode" not sure why. But this can be resolved. Best drop me an email. andy@ultimarc.com

Will do.  Keep up the good work.

[NIVO]

Now you need to make a layout for Mamewah where we can shoot screenshots to start the game.

Might actually be possible to use the gun as a mouse and trigger to start game...but not really what you want

add a scroll wheel where the hammer would be on a typical gun and you can do just about anything in a front end

[jlfreund]

I'm glad to see this product released in stages with upgradeable firmware, and I'm looking forward to hearing about how good the accuracy is, whether there are any reload or compatibility problems, and whether it works for all 2P gun games. 

I'm curious if any features or specs have been determined for the Ulitmarc gun yet (number of buttons, weight, cord length, colors, etc)?  I'd love to get a cordless gun that puts rechargeable batteries in the handle (the holster should be a charger), and uses IR to send the clicks.  If it had an IR device in it, wouldn't it be cool to add a few tiny jukebox buttons to the gun? 

Everything should be cordless these days -- it's a new rule.

-Jason

[Minwah]

Everything should be cordless these days -- it's a new rule.

Call me old fashioned but I disagree. Firstly, when someone has forgot to charge the device you can't use it...no such problem with a cable. Secondly, I like things to be as similar as possible to the arcade, and no arcade would want a wireless gun 

[Dartful Dodger]

Everything should be cordless these days -- it's a new rule.

Call me old fashioned but I disagree. Firstly, when someone has forgot to charge the device you can't use it...no such problem with a cable. Secondly, I like things to be as similar as possible to the arcade, and no arcade would want a wireless gun 

I'd go for the wired option too.

I misplace my TV/DVD remotes all the time and the ps3 controllers always need to be recharged when I really need them.

[patrickl]

the ps3 controllers always need to be recharged when I really need them.

You can connect them with a cable when the batteries run out though.

[PsychoAU]

Why not just take it a step further and make an Aimtrak app for the iPhone.   

[u_rebelscum]

Secondly, I like things to be as similar as possible to the arcade, and no arcade would want a wireless gun 

The arcade around the corner had wireless guns last week.  I'm sure they want them back.

[RandyT]

The arcade around the corner had wireless guns last week.  I'm sure they want them back.

They should have put a big, heavy chain on them  

[bkenobi]

A chain isn't a wire, so that would still be wireless, right?   

[jlfreund]

Everything should be cordless these days -- it's a new rule.

Call me old fashioned but I disagree. Firstly, when someone has forgot to charge the device you can't use it...no such problem with a cable. Secondly, I like things to be as similar as possible to the arcade, and no arcade would want a wireless gun  

It shouldn't take much to power the device.  A USB connection only has 5mA.  I change the batteries in my (non-rechargeable) wireless mouse and TV remote about once every two years.   I would expect that draining the batteries won't be a problem if someone forgets to holster the gun for a while. 

As for authenticity -- I agree, but up to a point.  The primary purpose for my cabinet is to faithfully reproduce the gameplay of as many old games as possible.  But it is not a museum exhibit, and none of my controls, panel layout, or parts adhere to any particular arcade spec, it's my own creation designed for functionality and flexibility.  Removing the USB cables are the type of thing that should improve the cabinet without inhibiting authentic gameplay at all -- akin to adding headphone jacks, extra control buttons (exit, coin, pause, etc), LED readouts, etc.  None of those things are authentic arcade components, but they are all popular features for making a better MAME machine.

-Jason

[PsychoAU]

It shouldn't take much to power the device.  A USB connection only has 5mA.  I change the batteries in my (non-rechargeable) wireless mouse and TV remote about once every two years.   I would expect that draining the batteries won't be a problem if someone forgets to holster the gun for a while. 

Wrong.  USB devices use 5 volts at up to 100 mA.

[kronic24601]

Everything should be cordless these days -- it's a new rule.

Call me old fashioned but I disagree. Firstly, when someone has forgot to charge the device you can't use it...no such problem with a cable. Secondly, I like things to be as similar as possible to the arcade, and no arcade would want a wireless gun  

It shouldn't take much to power the device.  A USB connection only has 5mA.  I change the batteries in my (non-rechargeable) wireless mouse and TV remote about once every two years.   I would expect that draining the batteries won't be a problem if someone forgets to holster the gun for a while. 

As for authenticity -- I agree, but up to a point.  The primary purpose for my cabinet is to faithfully reproduce the gameplay of as many old games as possible.  But it is not a museum exhibit, and none of my controls, panel layout, or parts adhere to any particular arcade spec, it's my own creation designed for functionality and flexibility.  Removing the USB cables are the type of thing that should improve the cabinet without inhibiting authentic gameplay at all -- akin to adding headphone jacks, extra control buttons (exit, coin, pause, etc), LED readouts, etc.  None of those things are authentic arcade components, but they are all popular features for making a better MAME machine.

-Jason

Fact #1: A wireless option would cost more.
Fact #2: I'm am a fairly cheap person, so I would always want to pay the least possible when possible.
Fact #3: Wireless may be useful to some, even many, but since it will cost more, less people will want it, therefore it doesn't make sense to even produce it to this market of Arcade types. (Fact 3, is really more of a redundant combination of facts 1 & 2)

Case closed.

[Minwah]

But it is not a museum exhibit, and none of my controls, panel layout, or parts adhere to any particular arcade spec, it's my own creation designed for functionality and flexibility.  Removing the USB cables are the type of thing that should improve the cabinet without inhibiting authentic gameplay at all -- akin to adding headphone jacks, extra control buttons (exit, coin, pause, etc), LED readouts, etc.  None of those things are authentic arcade components, but they are all popular features for making a better MAME machine.

'Better' is subjective. I have nothing against the stuff you mention but for me better is not having headphone jack, led's etc. I must admit I do I have a pause button, mainly to use as a 'shift' because using start buttons for this can sometimes affect gameplay. I don't think there is anything on my machine that really gives it away as not being 'real'...

(ok so I admit I just hooked up a Nintendo Zapper...partly as it was very cheap but I also have fond memories of this gun!).

[Ed_McCarron]

Still digging into this.  I suspect the problem I'm having isn't with the AimTrak, but with windows.  I can't get the mouse to work at ALL.  I still get HID driver errors.

TinyXP install.  I'm working on getting that taken care of, then I'll cross the AimTrak bridge.

[u_rebelscum]

It shouldn't take much to power the device.  A USB connection only has 5mA.  

Wrong.  USB devices use 5 volts at up to 100 mA.

Err, no, the minimum a USB device can request it 100mA, but can request up to 500mA, in 100mA chunks.  (The 5V+ is constant.)

Yeah, most devices request 100mA, and yeah most use less than they request.  So a device actually using only 5mA is not unusual (even though it's required to ask for power in 100mA to get that 5mA).

[kronic24601]

Still digging into this.  I suspect the problem I'm having isn't with the AimTrak, but with windows.  I can't get the mouse to work at ALL.  I still get HID driver errors.

TinyXP install.  I'm working on getting that taken care of, then I'll cross the AimTrak bridge.

Ya, I tried TinyXP and had all kinds of hell trying to get all the drivers to work ... I just couldn't figure it out, so I reverted to a only "slightly" modified nlite-d version I created and that seems to work. You may want to try a dual boot with something else, it will probably solve all your problems.

[TeutonicDarkness]

 
 I can't believe I just discovered this thread!

I have read through the replies..
but I have a few questions please excuse me if they are
already covered somewhere.

1.) Can someone confirm I this will completely work with
     Terminator 2. As in track with both cursors across the screen.
     If so will you be able to auto fire as in T2 or will it be like
     The ActLab guns and only pistol fire?
     I have seen others ask about T2 but I did not see a response?


2.) I understand their is a problem with the distance/ height
     if not the same every time..

     Could this be overcome with a stationary gun such as The
     Terminator 2 style? How well would a Completely Stationary
     gun work... and if so would it cause any foreseeable problems   
     with other games?


Well that's all I can think of for now...
I can hardly wait to find out more about this gun system!   

[smalltownguy]

I can confirm that it does track and autofire in Terminator 2. See my post in this thread for a video on my cab of T2 in action:

My video of T2 with AimTrack -- on my 'eentsy' monitor

Can't say for sure if 2 AimTrack units will work for this, but since I can use my Aimtrak for player one, and my trackball for player 2, I don't see why it wouldn't.

One other thing: The longest setting you can set the auto-calibration mode delay for is 60 seconds, so for the spray & pray games (like T2) you have to remember to let go of the trigger once every 60 seconds, or else the gun will go into calibration mode. I'm considering requesting a patch to either extend this time limit, or toggle it as user selectable from the AimTrak config program. Since it's version 1 of the firmware, I'll wait to see what Andy does in revisons.

Totally rocks, though! I love being able to play T2 with my AimTrak!

[TeutonicDarkness]

I can confirm that it does track and autofire in Terminator 2. See my post in this thread for a video on my cab of T2 in action:

My video of T2 with AimTrack -- on my 'eentsy' monitor

Can't say for sure if 2 AimTrack units will work for this, but since I can use my Aimtrak for player one, and my trackball for player 2, I don't see why it wouldn't.

One other thing: The longest setting you can set the auto-calibration mode delay for is 60 seconds, so for the spray & pray games (like T2) you have to remember to let go of the trigger once every 60 seconds, or else the gun will go into calibration mode. I'm considering requesting a patch to either extend this time limit, or toggle it as user selectable from the AimTrak config program. Since it's version 1 of the firmware, I'll wait to see what Andy does in revisons.

Totally rocks, though! I love being able to play T2 with my AimTrak!

Wow.. short video but Awesome to see it in action...
T2 is Just Amazing! Its a shame you don't have 2 guns
I would really like to see 2 in action.
A lot of other lightgun solutions had problems when you add
the 2nd gun... 

 Oh on the 60 seconds calibration problem....
I'm almost positive I read somewhere it could be turned off
in the config utility.

[KonkeyKong]

Got my Aimtraks... no firmware update yet, no gun mounted module, just holding it my hand with a trigger button rigged and lovin' it.  It works beautifully.  I've got the sensor bar mounted right on the faceplate of a 19" lcd monitor and accuracy and tracking do not seem to be an issue, it shoots where I point it.

One question I have:  Before I go experimenting, How does one connect wires to the extra five inputs?  Are they just little pads you have to solder to, or are there actually some holes there you can remove the solder from and poke a wire through?

[NeoTechni]

Must... install.... in... NES... Zapper...

[NeoTechni]

I'm wondering, as soon as Silent Scope becomes playable in MAME, who will be first to make a light gun with a small LCD mounted on top for this game?

I intend to be the first. I've been pestering emulator programmers of MAME, PS2, DC and XBOX to find out how to get the surface the scope is being rendered to and bitblt it to an external window, so you can just use any VNC client to have it show on a portable LCD like iphone or PSP.

If they don't do it, I will buy a component capture card, and write software to find the scope on screen and bitblt it to an external window. Problem is finding a cheap component capture USB device that doesnt cost an arm and a leg.

Hell this thing is small enough to fit inside the nose of a the Pelican Silent Scope sniper rifle for XBOX. Then I wouldn't have to write software to find the scope, I could just use this baby!