Replaceing Hantarex Polo for Makvision Dual Resolution LCD Monitor

[Arcade-Kicker]

Hi guys, I'm looking for some help on replacing my monitor,it a standard arcade cab not MAME, and the monitor is a Hartarex 20" polo monitor, it died on me the other night. So I said I would update it with a LCD Monitor. Now I know very little about the LCD's. I went on to Happ.com and see they have a Makvision Dual Resolution
19" LCD. What I need to know is it a big job to swap over from CRT to LCD, will I need some sort of a converter or anything like that?? I am living in Ireland so I know the voltage and stuff is going to be different, but if I got some info on how to get the ball rolling on this it would be great 

[grantspain]

there is a company in the u.k www.giz10p.co.uk that can repair your monitor for you alot cheaper than a replacement monitor

infact hantarex are easy fix monitors

[Arcade-Kicker]

I was told about them guys before, I sent two monitors over to the UK to be fixed by a company called Lumaco Ltd and have to say there great, so they fixed the monitors no problem but by the time they arrived back to me in the box the necks of the tubes were broken  the couriers over here are a rough bunch, so there was €200 down the drain, thats why I said I would try the LCD Monitors out.

[Nipedley]

Sorry to hear that but surely you could claim off the couriers for the damage done? Sending tubes is always risky business really you should only send the chassis provided you are comfortable with discharging the tube (necessary to get the chassis off)

Plus the chassis would be a heck of a lot cheaper to ship as well!

What is the problem you are having with it?

[Arcade-Kicker]

I tried that all ready they said the fact that it's glass that's the risk you take, The flyback  is just sparking causing the monitor not to power up. Is it a big job to take off the chassis? I know how to discharge the monitor using a screwdriver heavy cable and a croc clip! I don't like messing around with monitors to dangerous,

[Nipedley]

They're not dangerous so long as you understand what's going on and don't get too complacent, I had a minor nip when I got too comfortable removing a neckboard just after a power-on test.

To remove the chassis all you really have to do is remove the anode (big red wire) which as you know, needs discharging, then there's the yoke wires which on my hantarex at least is a little green plug with 4 wires which goes onto the main chassis, then gently slide the neckboard off the neck of the tube. If the flyback is sparking it's probably got a crack in it, simple to fix (replace) but if you don't feel like having a go at it yourself then send it off

Shouldn't be too difficult, discharging is the hardest thing to do if you haven't before due to nerves but once you've got that out of the way it's a doddle.