Author Topic: Need help buying a new chassis (wei ya) (Read 5134 times)

Larock · « **on:** July 13, 2009, 06:08:03 am »

Long story short.

I ordered a candy cabinet from the us. The guy i ordered from said the chassis would acept 220 volt (i live in norway). The power supply was switchable from 110 to 220 volt. So i flipped the switch and plugged it in... poff and a broken fuse. Tried with another fuse and poff same again. After this i tried with a step down converter from 220 to 110 and i did get some kind of picture tho it was wobbling like crazy and when i turned it on again today i have a vertical collapse (just a thin white line)

I guess i damaged the chassis somehow when i tried to run it on 220 volt so now i need to find a chassis that will work on my monitor. I would very much prefer if it ran on 220 volt so i didnt have to mess around with voltage converters etc.

Anybody know what if there is such a chassis that will fit my monitor and possible have some information on where i could buy one (need international shipping to norway)? I have taken some pictures if it helps.

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** July 13, 2009, 06:25:28 pm »

thats a 110v isolation only chassis-almost any 15khz chassis will fit that
if you look it gives all the correct values of the yoke on the side

i have chassis that will fit this if this if you get stuck

Larock · « **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2009, 06:56:03 pm »

When you say its isolation only does that mean it needs a isolation transformer? My cab did not have one installed and i kinda wondered why.

Hopefully the seller will send me a replacement chassis

Thanks for helping.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2009, 07:13:14 pm »

Quote from: Larock on July 13, 2009, 06:08:03 am

The power supply was switchable from 110 to 220 volt. So i flipped the switch and plugged it in... poff and a broken fuse.

Yup, that's where things went wrong. The monitor doesn't get it's power from that power supply.....it only runs game boards, lights, etc.

If that's an isolation only chassis then I would assume there would be an isolation transformer in there somewhere, otherwise it would NEVER have worked. (even here in the US for the seller)

I would also think there was a switchable multi tap type transformer since these went all over the world.
Don't really know much specifics about the Candy Cabs, but those a couple things that come to mind first.

Larock · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2009, 08:10:29 pm »

Quote

The monitor doesn't get it's power from that power supply.....it only runs game boards, lights, etc.

im confused

This is the only power supply in the cabinet (picture) and the monitor is connected to it. Is there an isolation transformer inside the power supply then? The more i read on this issue the less i understand.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2009, 08:41:35 pm »

Ah..... that clears that up ..... that ain't right.

So there's NO transformer looking thin in the cab anywhere?

Larock · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2009, 09:12:01 pm »

Nothing exept for the "stuff" (god i hate not knowing what im talking about

) on the chassis. I can post more pictures of the chassis tomorrow but there is nothing else than the power supply and the chassis in the cabinet.

Larock · « **Reply #7 on:** July 14, 2009, 11:58:07 am »

ok i have taken a couple of pictures of the chassis and hopefully some of you guys can confirm if i need to add a isolation transformer or not to this cabinet. The seller have agreed to send me a replacement chassis so i want to make sure i dont do anything wrong when i get it

Nipedley · « **Reply #8 on:** July 14, 2009, 01:27:07 pm »

If those two black wires going from your chassis are the ones on your "AC 1" on your power supply (it appears so), then what's happened there is he has just used the power supply's terminals to connect the monitor's power wires to the plug. If this is the case then the power supply isn't doing anything to the monitor, merely the terminals are connecting the monitor to the mains. So if the plug is getting 220v, so will the monitor. Changing the power supply switch to 110v/220v only changes its own operation (for gameboards, lights etc.) and the monitor is still 'directly' connected to whatever voltage the mains is.

I'm not sure of your particular model, and google is lacking, but my 25" Wei Ya chassis is 110v only, but if i remember correctly does not require an isolation transformer. I hooked it up to one anyway to be safe. It seems that the setup he's used would be fine if the mains is 110v but in your European country, the monitor is getting 220v instead and there begins your problems.

You could either get an isolation transformer to provide the 110v for the monitor from your 220v, or you could run the whole machine on 110v through a step-down transformer. Remember to set the power suppy's voltage right too

EDIT: Corrected information on my own model, it's been a long time since I installed it!

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #9 on:** July 14, 2009, 02:14:42 pm »

Quote from: Larock on July 14, 2009, 11:58:07 am

The seller have agreed to send me a replacement chassis so i want to make sure i dont do anything wrong when i get it

You need to ask the seller EXACTLY what he's sending you so we can further advise you on whether or not you need an iso or step-down, etc.

The 429H seems to be an older model as their site doesn't even list it anymore.

So depending on what replacement he is sending will determine what you need to do from there.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #10 on:** July 14, 2009, 10:54:56 pm »

Your picture shows a 120 volt chassis and that one definitely NEEDS AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER.

Larock · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2009, 05:39:17 am »

Thanks so much for helping!

I will post some pictures of the new chassis when i get it.

Larock · « **Reply #12 on:** July 15, 2009, 02:28:58 pm »

Look what i found!

A friend of mine at work just recently built a mame cab from an old virtua striker cabinet and had some parts he didnt need. This is a isolation transformer right? And also it seem to regulate power from 220 to 120 volt?

So if i understand this correctly i put this "box" between the monitor and the power supply, switch the power supply to 220 volt and then i can plug the wire from the power supply directly in the wall and have everything running at 220volt?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2009, 02:43:21 pm »

Looks like a step-down transformer to me.
Can't read the voltage on the bottom outputs. (brown wires)
Top ones look like 120v.

Should be isolated.
Check for continuity between the inputs and outputs with a meter.
There should be NO continuity.

Larock · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2009, 03:11:31 pm »

YEY!

delivered the cabinet to a local tv repair shop cos i couldnt stand waiting weeks for a new chassis (and having one for backup for the future is nice) and he even installed the isolation transformer (picture above) and i got it back today. He replaced a lot of things on the chassis that had been fried when i sent the wrong voltage to it and now i got a working monitor.

But.. The picture is to wide. I have spent a couple of hours reading trough different posts on the forum and it seems i have to adjust the width coil. Problem is i cant find it. Can someone help me locate it on one of the pictures above?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2009, 03:33:22 pm »

Be sure to use the proper size PLASTIC tool.

Were none of the other adjustments enough to adjust the width ?

Larock · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2009, 03:47:11 pm »

Thanks!

It doesnt seem to be adjustable. It doesnt show on the picture but there is no hole in the top. I tried to google width coils and got some pictures of width coils but they seem to have a adjustment hole at the top that i am missing so i guess its not possible to adjust it ?

. The tv repair dude seemed to mumble something about that when i picked it up but at that time i didnt understand one word of what he said.

I have tried adjusting the other pots for hours including b+ . Im able to make the picture smaller this way, tho not small enough and the picture seems to be very distorted when i adjust the size with the b+ pot.

MonMotha · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2009, 03:54:14 pm »

Don't play with the B+ pot! That adjusts the main supply rail on the chassis board. It would probably have been adjusted by your TV repairman to be correct. There is one correct value for this. It's not used to adjust picture geometry.

That width coil looks adjustable to me. Is there a hex socket anywhere on that center slug? Every once in a while, I'll see one that adjusts from the bottom through a hole in the PCB for some reason. Again, proper size plastic tool is required.

Many monitors also have a potentiometer somewhere for adjusting horizontal size. Look around.

Larock · « **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2009, 04:04:49 pm »

yes i know. after reading a couple of posts on the forum i have seen that i shouldnt touch the b+ pot. However i already did and the tv repair guy also did when i was there (and he didnt measure anything) so i thought it was safe. I have adjusted it back to what i believe is the position he left it in. It seems everything is still ok. I can try to measure the voltage somehow but im not sure how.

There is no hex socket just a flat black plastic surface on the top of the width coil. I have looked under the chassis and its solid.

off to search forum and google for "potentiometer"

I found a pic of a similar wei ya chassis on the forum. The general layout is pretty much the same and there seem to be a hole and a hex socket. Maybe i have one also under the plastic top?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2009, 05:28:03 pm »

It's hard to tell in your pic exactly what you have going on there.
But if there is a "cap", just be careful popping it off. (gently)
Any of the Wei-Ya chassis I have are kinda packed away, but I could dig them out if need be and compare those. (very similar to yours and the one you posted a pic of)

Larock · « **Reply #20 on:** July 17, 2009, 06:02:59 pm »

Thanks

I have tried popping it of both gently and not so gently but its stuck so i guess i would have to take the width coil of but i wouldnt have a clue how to get it back on there so i guess i shouldnt

. If it was only the fact that the picture was a little to wide (or high cos i have the monitor mounted vertically) i could have lived with it but there is also an insane amount of pincushion that makes it unplayable at the moment. I have tried adjusting the pincushion pot but it didnt help much.
Im starting to think that the tv repair guy didnt fix this thing properly.

getting the "authentic" arcade look sure wasnt gonna be easy


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