WG K7000 (7191) P538 25" 120V Help w(pics)

[supadave]

I'm new to this so be gentle. I've attached a photo to go with my bullets below. I'm hoping someone has some insight to my problem.

Problem: Will not power on tube. No glow, DOA when I got it. No idea what previous owner did
Solution: Ask the fine people at BYOAC who have more experiance than I can even imagine for some help.

Bullets: See attached photos for issue locations
A) Incoming 120V power reads just fine at these locations as I traced the power using a meter. PS Cabinet does have a monitor isolation transformer that appears to be wired fine. see pic
B) Once I got to this point I could no longer trace any power.
C) This cap looks suspicious, Could faulty caps cause a no power issue
D) Voltage Regulator 3130, Couldn't get any readings. Not 100% sure I was testing right spots though. Used ground location and tested each leg with red prod on the meter using the 250V max setting.
E) Pretty sure this cap is crap! It's got a split in the side.

Should I bother capping this thing and replacing the 3130 regulator? Could R301 be shot? If so is it replaceable.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions and help offered.

[Ken Layton]

It's obvious from your pictures that monitor has never been recapped. Bad electrolytic capacitors (open circuit or off value) can certainly prevent it from starting up. In my opinion, you should recap this monitor first then see what happens. As I've mentioned many times in the past, that dark "goo" is dried glue that Wells-Gardner applied to certain parts to secure them on their long journey across the world when the monitor leaves the factory.

You also have an original flyback.

[supadave]

I've read some of your other posts about the shipping gooo.. I figured that was the case except for that one cap is split open.. I can feel the split with my fingers. I am fairly certian it is crap.  Before I ordered a cap kit I just wanted the re-assurance that bad caps could prevent powering up.

I will order the kit, and report back to this post my results....  Thank you Ken,

[Kevin Mullins]

Also be sure to check for bad solder joints while you have it out to cap it.

[supadave]

I performed the cap.. still no power up. I haven't replaced flyback or anything else yet. I do have a used but known good flyback I could toss in it real quick. I'll try that later. I just don't feel very confident in that it could be the flyback.

any suggestions

PS, I did pick up a spare used chassis. It is working so that verifys the power scheme being ok.

[Kevin Mullins]

Is there power going into the voltage regulator?  (the STR3130)

Or voltage on either end of the LARGE resistor mounted to the side of the chassis? (R301)

Is there voltage on the metal tab of the H.O.T. ? (Q11)

All voltages are DC and can be up in the neighborhood of 160vDC....so set your meter accordingly. (200vDC)

[supadave]

Thanks Kev.. I'll check those locations the next time I get the chance and report my finding.