Author Topic: Wiring Coin door to turn on PC - Microswitch? (Read 15743 times)

johnnyr · « **on:** March 23, 2009, 09:46:54 pm »

Hey guys. I just got my coin door from happ, and it has the lights, but I don't know if it has miscroswitches or not. How can I tell? What would it look like? If I don't have it, what do I need to buy? Is there another way to do it?

This is what I have:

Thanks,

John

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2009, 10:13:06 pm »

You see those gold contacts at the bottom, with a silver colored one lower and to the left? Those are the switches.

johnnyr · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2009, 11:06:32 pm »

Ah...I do see those...How would I connect these up to trip when one of the top coin reject buttons was pressed? I can't seem to figure out way to mount it right.

And will these microswitches work like a momentary switch?

Thanks!

ivwshane · « **Reply #3 on:** March 24, 2009, 01:20:21 am »

They act just like your buttons on the cp.

You may have some trouble doing what you want because you are missing the whole coin mech which would make things a lot easier.

johnnyr · « **Reply #4 on:** March 24, 2009, 09:37:06 am »

So I just need to mcguyver it somehow to get the reject button to trip the switch?

Franco B · « **Reply #5 on:** March 24, 2009, 09:50:14 am »

The microswitches that you have in place at the bottom of the mech are triggered when you insert a coin, if you connected those up your PC would switch on and off everytime you insert a coin, not what you want.

The rejects do not active a microswitch, they just open the mech to release any stuck coins.

What you need to do is to fix a microswitch in posistion beind the red piece of plastic so that it actuates the microswitch when you press the reject. Deffo some mcguyver'ing inmvolved but it should be pretty easy

To answer your other question, yes the microswitches act as a normaly open switch when you connect the wires to the NO and ground/common terminals.

johnnyr · « **Reply #6 on:** March 24, 2009, 10:00:59 am »

Quote from: Franco B on March 24, 2009, 09:50:14 am

The microswitches that you have in place at the bottom of the mech are triggered when you insert a coin, if you connected those up your PC would switch on and off everytime you insert a coin, not what you want.

The rejects do not active a microswitch, they just open the mech to release any stuck coins.

What you need to do is to fix a microswitch in posistion beind the red piece of plastic so that it actuates the microswitch when you press the reject. Deffo some mcguyver'ing inmvolved but it should be pretty easy

To answer your other question, yes the microswitches act as a normaly open switch when you connect the wires to the NO and ground/common terminals.

Awesome, this is the info I was looking for. Thank you very much!

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #7 on:** March 24, 2009, 10:01:50 am »

I apologize for the horrible image quality, but here are some pics of my player two reject with a switch behind it. I screwed the switch into a small piece of wood, then I gorilla glued it to the coin chute. Of course, I have an older style coin door, here:

jasonbar · « **Reply #8 on:** March 24, 2009, 01:45:13 pm »

GV-

I'm curious. What function is hooked up to your hacked coin reject switch?

Thanks,
-Jason

javeryh · « **Reply #9 on:** March 24, 2009, 01:51:06 pm »

THIS is what you are looking for.

I have the "coin" button wired to the player 2 return button on the coin door.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2009, 01:55:30 pm »

Quote from: jasonbar on March 24, 2009, 01:45:13 pm

GV-

I'm curious. What function is hooked up to your hacked coin reject switch?

Thanks,
-Jason

Coin 1

ivwshane · « **Reply #11 on:** March 25, 2009, 02:34:51 am »

Since everyone else is posting their setup, here is mine.

Bluedeath · « **Reply #12 on:** March 25, 2009, 07:16:52 am »

Quote from: johnnyr on March 24, 2009, 09:37:06 am

So I just need to mcguyver it somehow to get the reject button to trip the switch?

Who is McGuyver? Maybe an ugly hybrid between Guyver (the bio boosted armor) and MacGyver, who has the power to assemble strange animals from scavenged organic parts? (sorry for the joke but I could not resist)

Seriously may ask if wiring the coin door is what you really need? you can just power the PC from the main switch and shut it off from the frontend.

johnnyr · « **Reply #13 on:** March 25, 2009, 09:44:39 am »

Well, I'm using a smartstrip surge protector, and think it would be cool to just hit the coin return button to turn everything on. I've also thought of making it so that when a coin is put in, that trips the microswitch and turn everything on. *shrug* I guess I just think it would be cool.

I do have one additional question however, when I wire up the 12v lamps, does it matter what side is ground and which is 12v on the two small connectors that are on the light?

Franco B · « **Reply #14 on:** March 25, 2009, 09:57:40 am »

The standard incandescent lamps will light up either way, unlike LEDs.

jasonbar · « **Reply #15 on:** March 25, 2009, 11:14:20 am »

Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 09:44:39 am

Well, I'm using a smartstrip surge protector, and think it would be cool to just hit the coin return button to turn everything on. I've also thought of making it so that when a coin is put in, that trips the microswitch and turn everything on. *shrug* I guess I just think it would be cool.

A cool idea indeed, but...

...any kids or curious compulsive button-pushing adults going to be around your game? If so, it's hard for them to resist jamming their finger into a big bright red lit-up button like a coin return slot. Hope they're not doing it when you've got a world record score going.

(I put a protective flip-up cover over my power switch, just to be sure it wouldn't be bumped or pushed too easily)

-Jason

johnnyr · « **Reply #16 on:** March 25, 2009, 11:28:26 am »

Quote from: jasonbar on March 25, 2009, 11:14:20 am

Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 09:44:39 am
Well, I'm using a smartstrip surge protector, and think it would be cool to just hit the coin return button to turn everything on. I've also thought of making it so that when a coin is put in, that trips the microswitch and turn everything on. *shrug* I guess I just think it would be cool.

A cool idea indeed, but...

...any kids or curious compulsive button-pushing adults going to be around your game? If so, it's hard for them to resist jamming their finger into a big bright red lit-up button like a coin return slot. Hope they're not doing it when you've got a world record score going.

(I put a protective flip-up cover over my power switch, just to be sure it wouldn't be bumped or pushed too easily)

-Jason

Lol....no kids yet, just me and my wife right now, but good point!

severdhed · « **Reply #17 on:** March 25, 2009, 12:12:40 pm »

yeah, i'd be cautious of that. people often press my coin return buttons just to see what happens. especially when people bring their kids over..they are all drawn to the cabinet..and naturally want to press anything that remotely looks like a button.

what alot of people do is install switches for the reject buttons, adn use those for the coin buttons in mame. then mount a standard pushbutton on the top of the cabinet or somethign for power

javeryh · « **Reply #18 on:** March 25, 2009, 12:16:06 pm »

I mounted a mini pushbutton on the back of the cabinet in the top corner (out of sight and out of reach for the kids). I would not wire it to the coin return.

johnnyr · « **Reply #19 on:** March 25, 2009, 02:54:52 pm »

Thanks for info guys...I WOULD like to wire them as coin up buttons, but I'm not using an IPAc or anything right now, just a tankstick.

For the connection to the microswitch, should I put on some quick disconnect terminals? Or just wire and electrical tape?

jasonbar · « **Reply #20 on:** March 25, 2009, 02:59:50 pm »

Definitely go w/ quick disconnect terminals crimped firmly onto the wires. Electrical tape is pretty sketchy...

-Jason

Kayden · « **Reply #21 on:** March 25, 2009, 03:47:28 pm »

I set mine up the opposite of this. Instead of being activated by the red arm, I set mine up to be deactivated by the white arm. I just wired the switch as NC and glued it flush to the white arm.

A potential problem I saw with J's design was that someone could push too hard and maybe break something loose. Also, I didn't have to make a shim, it just sat flush.

I think it'd be pretty awesome to have a coin power the whole thing on and it's a lot less likely that people will stick coins in it than push the glowing button. Unfortunately, I can see it becoming annoying fishing out quarters.

ivwshane · « **Reply #22 on:** March 25, 2009, 03:55:45 pm »

Mine is setup the same way and I did it like that for the same reasons.

johnnyr · « **Reply #23 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:02:51 pm »

Quote from: jasonbar on March 25, 2009, 02:59:50 pm

Definitely go w/ quick disconnect terminals crimped firmly onto the wires. Electrical tape is pretty sketchy...

-Jason

Can I get these pretty much anywhere? Lowe's, Home Depot, etc?

jasonbar · « **Reply #24 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:12:30 pm »

Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 04:02:51 pm

Quote from: jasonbar on March 25, 2009, 02:59:50 pm
Definitely go w/ quick disconnect terminals crimped firmly onto the wires. Electrical tape is pretty sketchy...

-Jason

Can I get these pretty much anywhere? Lowe's, Home Depot, etc?

Yup, even Radio Shack (hidden in back, away from all the cell phones...). Make sure to get a crimping tool, too--don't just use pliers or a vise. You can be hardcore and spend $100-200 on fancy-pants crimping tools, but I've been using a cheapy that came in a kit (like this: http://www.tooltrust.com.au/cw2/assets/product_thumb/10021%20Crimping%20Tool%20Kit%2060pceTN.jpg) for a couple of decades & it works fine. Great tool to have--it also cuts bolts & strips wires pretty decently. Make sure you test your work--tug on your crimp connection--you should be able to pull pretty hard w/out it coming off. It'll probably take a little practice.

-Jason

johnnyr · « **Reply #25 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:31:44 pm »

This may seem like a stupid question....but what size disconnect would I use?

Thanks again for the info!

jasonbar · « **Reply #26 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:38:44 pm »

Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 04:31:44 pm

This may seem like a stupid question....but what size disconnect would I use?

Thanks again for the info!

Size what? Wire gauge quick disconnect, or crimper? :]

Wire gauge: skinny. 18-24AWG or so (off the top of my head--see what the rest of your cabinet uses for reference)

Quick disconnect: buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103313&cp or you can go insulated if you want (not really necessary) & buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=family&cp=2032058.2032231.2032283&productId=2103502&tab=summary. As for size, measure the width of your tab on your microswitch & buy the matching quick disconnect. Or bring your switch into a store & do a test fit or hold them up side-by-side for comparison. Don't go too big on the quick disconnect or it can weasel its way off the switch tab.

Crimper: just get a generic universal one like the one I linked to. It can accommodate a range of sizes, as well as insulated/not insulated.

-Jason

johnnyr · « **Reply #27 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:45:09 pm »

Quote from: jasonbar on March 25, 2009, 04:38:44 pm

Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 04:31:44 pm
This may seem like a stupid question....but what size disconnect would I use?

Thanks again for the info!

Size what? Wire gauge quick disconnect, or crimper? :]

Wire gauge: skinny. 18-24AWG or so (off the top of my head--see what the rest of your cabinet uses for reference)

Quick disconnect: buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103313&cp or you can go insulated if you want (not really necessary) & buy something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=family&cp=2032058.2032231.2032283&productId=2103502&tab=summary. As for size, measure the width of your tab on your microswitch & buy the matching quick disconnect. Or bring your switch into a store & do a test fit or hold them up side-by-side for comparison. Don't go too big on the quick disconnect or it can weasel its way off the switch tab.

Crimper: just get a generic universal one like the one I linked to. It can accommodate a range of sizes, as well as insulated/not insulated.

-Jason

Jason you are awesome. Thank you sir.

I'm building my cab this weekend as the last of the parts I need are coming on Friday, so I will be sure to let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks!

jasonbar · « **Reply #28 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:47:54 pm »

Happy to help when it's actually a topic that I know something about (rare!).

(I've wired up lots o' robots in my years)

-Jason

javeryh · « **Reply #29 on:** March 25, 2009, 06:53:22 pm »

Quote from: Kayden on March 25, 2009, 03:47:28 pm

I set mine up the opposite of this. Instead of being activated by the red arm, I set mine up to be deactivated by the white arm. I just wired the switch as NC and glued it flush to the white arm.

A potential problem I saw with J's design was that someone could push too hard and maybe break something loose. Also, I didn't have to make a shim, it just sat flush.

That's a cool idea - I made sure that the coin button is pressed all the way in to activate the cherry so there's absolutely no way to push too hard...

Kayden · « **Reply #30 on:** March 25, 2009, 06:55:49 pm »

Well... mine is still better because I don't have to push mine all the way.

lowlifefalcon · « **Reply #31 on:** March 25, 2009, 07:09:08 pm »

what i did is stuck a micro push button in the coin return slot. i drilled a small hole in the back of it and tied in the wires to the micro credit switch. very clean and no one see's it. just stick your finger in the chute and credit up.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #32 on:** March 25, 2009, 08:52:26 pm »

Don't buy disconnects from Radio Shack. They rip you off big time. I buy mine in 100 packs at Ace Hardware for about the same price as what Radio Shack charges for 16.

Franco B · « **Reply #33 on:** March 26, 2009, 02:17:28 am »

Quote from: lowlifefalcon on March 25, 2009, 07:09:08 pm

what i did is stuck a micro push button in the coin return slot. i drilled a small hole in the back of it and tied in the wires to the micro credit switch. very clean and no one see's it. just stick your finger in the chute and credit up.

Good idea.

You could mount a microswitch behind both rejects and wire them so that both rejects have to be pressed simultaneously to turn on the PC.

Namco · « **Reply #34 on:** March 26, 2009, 03:17:34 am »

Quote from: ivwshane on March 25, 2009, 02:34:51 am

Since everyone else is posting their setup, here is mine.

Yeah dude, that's just genius. Using the NC side of the switch like that. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the idea!!

dreamakuma · « **Reply #35 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:39:58 am »

Anyone have a metod of wiring a coin return for A williams return without the coin mech? I take pics later if I have too.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #36 on:** March 26, 2009, 09:37:42 am »

Quote from: Namco on March 26, 2009, 03:17:34 am

Yeah dude, that's just genius. Using the NC side of the switch like that. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the idea!!

Yeah, I slapped my forehead on that one.

smalltownguy · « **Reply #37 on:** July 19, 2009, 08:13:54 pm »

LOTS and LOTS of searching on this forum, and I finally found my solution for coin reject buttons for credits. Thanks, folks. This will get 2 more buttons off my crowded CP.

njay · « **Reply #38 on:** July 20, 2009, 07:50:29 am »

what i have actually:

2 coin mechs with fronts

1. for visual pinball add credt wired to my x-arcade 1 player button (this adds credits for vp)
2. for mame add credit wired to my x-arcade left flipper button (this adds credits for vp)

i had an original coindoor and i wanted to keep some classic parts on the door, i sawed a gap out beneath the old coin in button and mounted the newer front with mech beneath it i cann add credits in the new mech but still have the original coin in button present.

garnerb350 · « **Reply #39 on:** July 20, 2009, 08:34:06 am »

Quote from: johnnyr on March 25, 2009, 02:54:52 pm

Thanks for info guys...I WOULD like to wire them as coin up buttons, but I'm not using an IPAc or anything right now, just a tankstick.

For the connection to the microswitch, should I put on some quick disconnect terminals? Or just wire and electrical tape?

Johnnyr, you can wire them up to the tankstick....I bought a set of the unreal coin door lights pushbuttons from GGG and I have them wired to the 3&4 buttons on the tankstick...the contacts in the tankstick are big enough to push and hold extra wiring...


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