Glory Days - Completed!

[dekar24k]

"Glory Days"



My first arcade cabinet which started as a bartop cabinet but ended up as a mini cabinet.

[YOUTUBE]dUHxnlJSOew[/YOUTUBE]

Specifications:

- Hardware: Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 @ 2.8GHz, 2GB Kingston PC6400 DDR2 RAM, 160GB SATA2 7200RPM HDD, 17" Phillips LCD 5ms monitor, XFX GeForce 8800GTS GPU.

- Software: Microsoft Windows XP Pro SP3 stripped using NLite, boots directly into Maximus Arcade V2.10

- Cabinet: UA II Bartop kit from Mameroom.com

Emulators installed:

- MAME (complete romset)

- SNES (complete romset)

- NES (complete romset)

- Sega Genesis (complete romset)

- Future Pinball (tables added continuously)

Scroll down for work-log (with lots of pictures).

* More tidy worklog here!

[IG-88]

Cool. Make sure you post updates here too...

[dekar24k]

Cool. Make sure you post updates here too...

I'll do my best.

[leapinlew]

Cool. Make sure you post updates here too...

Agreed. I rarely visit peoples blogs, and I'm sure I'm not alone. I'm following several projects and it's easier for me to come here than it is to visit everyones personal site.

[dekar24k]

A quick update;

I've decided to name the bartop "Glory Days". I was first thinking of something like "MAME Machine" or "Retroblaster" etc., but I figured "Glory Days" would be a nice name as that is just what the arcade will represent; those glorious 80's and 90's.

I have ordered everything I need now and here are the specs so far:

Cabinet:

- UAII Bartop kit from www.mameroom.com with black t-molding ( http://www.mameroom.com/northcoastcustom/ProductDetail.asp?ID=UAIIBARTOP )

Monitor:

- Black PHILIPS 170S9FB/ 17" 1280x1024 5ms (170S9FB/00) (new)

PC:

- ASUS iG31 mATX S-775 motherboard (new)
- Intel C2D E7400 @ 2.8GHz 1066MHz FSB (new)
- Corsair XMS2 PC6400 DDR2 1024MB x 2 (new)
- Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000.B 160GB SATA-II 7200RPM (new)

I will also get a second hand Radeon HD3870 512MB and buy a new mATX Forton 270w PSU which will be more than enough power for the arcade.

Control panel:

- J-Stik red balltop (4/8-way microswitched) from Ultimarc.com
- Classic pushbuttons (microswitched) from Ultimarc.com
- Ultimarc solid white 2 1/4" trackball from Ultimarc.com
- Mini-PAC interface from Ultimarc.com

Marquee and CPO:





(Not made from scratch, but I purchased a nice image off iStockphoto.com and modified it heavily in Photoshop to make the CPO and marquee).

I've also customized the Maximus Arcade skin so it matches the rest of the cabinet:





Now I'm still waiting for the cabinet to arrive, but I will start the building as soon as I get it. I'll keep you all updated on the process!

[IG-88]

Just curious, what was your reason for choosing the UAII kit? I've been thinking along these same lines and was wanting your opinion. Did you look at very many different types/vendors?

[Namco]

A quick update;

I've decided to name the bartop "Glory Days". I was first thinking of something like "MAME Machine" or "Retroblaster" etc., but I figured "Glory Days" would be a nice name as that is just what the arcade will represent; those glorious 80's and 90's.

I have ordered everything I need now and here are the specs so far:

Cabinet:

- UAII Bartop kit from www.mameroom.com with black t-molding ( http://www.mameroom.com/northcoastcustom/ProductDetail.asp?ID=UAIIBARTOP )

Monitor:

- Black PHILIPS 170S9FB/ 17" 1280x1024 5ms (170S9FB/00) (new)

PC:

- ASUS iG31 mATX S-775 motherboard (new)
- Intel C2D E7400 @ 2.8GHz 1066MHz FSB (new)
- Corsair XMS2 PC6400 DDR2 1024MB x 2 (new)
- Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000.B 160GB SATA-II 7200RPM (new)

I will also get a second hand Radeon HD3870 512MB and buy a new mATX Forton 270w PSU which will be more than enough power for the arcade.

Control panel:

- J-Stik red balltop (4/8-way microswitched) from Ultimarc.com
- Classic pushbuttons (microswitched) from Ultimarc.com
- Ultimarc solid white 2 1/4" trackball from Ultimarc.com
- Mini-PAC interface from Ultimarc.com

Marquee and CPO:





(Not made from scratch, but I purchased a nice image off iStockphoto.com and modified it heavily in Photoshop to make the CPO and marquee).

I've also customized the Maximus Arcade skin so it matches the rest of the cabinet:





Now I'm still waiting for the cabinet to arrive, but I will start the building as soon as I get it. I'll keep you all updated on the process!

Holy Crap! Very nice artwork! 

[Bender]

ditto

great art!

[YoGaBaR]

That is FN SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!

[Blanka]

Great artwork, but can't you restyle the red cab in vector-art for maximus too?

[dekar24k]

Great artwork, but can't you restyle the red cab in vector-art for maximus too?

Thanks! But remember guys, I didn't make the graphics from scratch (as I mentioned earlier in the thread). I just found a nice image from iStockphoto and spent a couple of hours in PS to customize it into a marquee and CPO design. I wish I was that good, but I'm not.

I'll re-style the cab as well, but I ran out of time yesterday so I didn't have time for more. Luckily it's Friday and I'll get to work some more on the design.

[dekar24k]

Just curious, what was your reason for choosing the UAII kit? I've been thinking along these same lines and was wanting your opinion. Did you look at very many different types/vendors?

Well, honestly it's the only quality kit I could find online. I didn't want to cut and drill a cab myself (at least not this time) so mameroom.com looked like the best option for my needs. I was at first planning an upright 2-player cab, but I figured a bartop would fit in nice in my apartment and it would be a decent project for a first-timer.

Next time I'll build a 2-player cab from scratch, so you can consider this project a warm-up.

[dekar24k]

Here's another update (I will start to copy straight from my blog now, so you don't miss any details):

The cabinet has arrived

Yeah! I tracked my Fedex shipment this morning and the cabinet kit has finally arrived. The Fedex facility is at the airport cargo right outside of Oslo, so without further a due I hopped in my car to go pick it up.



As soon as I got the package home again I noticed that it had taken quite a beating during the shipment, so I figured I should take a picture of it, in case the parts were all mashed up.



Luckily, after unwrapping, the parts looked perfectly fine and I even got impressed how precise the cutting was. All the pieces were there also, including the long strip of black t-molding. The only thing that set me off was the massive amount of polystyrene broken into bits and pieces. Remember if you’re going to get a kit like this yourself, have a vacuum in handy when unwrapping; you will need it.



After vacuuming both myself, my dog and of course the cabinet parts, I racked them up against the wall waiting to be assembled.



I also got the trackball and trackball mounting plate today which looked and felt exactly how I expected; great!

All I really need now before I start the assembly is the marquee and control panel overlay from Mamemarquees.com.

Today I will drill the flipper button holes for the cabinet (I have no idea why it doesn't already have them pre-drilled) and if I have time, make a nice little intro-video for Maximus Arcade.

Check back soon for updates and thanks for reading.

PS. When I start the actual building I will provide higher res pictures and some video clips as well.

[dekar24k]

Also, what do you guys think about this button setup:



Should cover everything I need right? I'm going to make the ESC-button shifted so I don't accidentally hit it while playing (which would really suck).

[Uncle Monkey]

I like the art, looking forward to seeing it finished....

[BobA]

How about a P2 and coin.  There are games where you can play 2 players using a single joystick.

[dekar24k]

How about a P2 and coin.  There are games where you can play 2 players using a single joystick.

I thought about it, but I decided to skip P2-buttons for now. I might add it later.

I will also add SAVE/LOAD hotkeys (for NES/SNES emulators etc.) when pressing SHIFT + button5/button6.

[dekar24k]

Day I - Flipper buttons and t-molding

Ok, so I’m still waiting for the marquee and control panel graphics, but I’m starting to get impatient so I slowly started working on the cabinet today. I will try to take as many pictures as possible throughout the building process, so you can hopefully use this blog as a tutorial if you ever want to build a bartop cabinet of your own.

I have mounted the flipper-buttons today and I also started applying the t-molding for the cabinet panels.

First, the holes for the flipper-buttons had to be expanded a little, as I drilled them a little too tight for the pushbuttons to fit:
Tight holes (hopefully this title will confuse search engines )



The holes were way too tight and I can’t believe I missed that much when I drilled them.



It took me at least half an hour of grinding before the holes were expanded enough for the pushbuttons to fit.



[IRONY]The buttons fit perfectly thanks to my outstanding woodworking skills.  [/IRONY]



Depending on the control panel wiring, I might need to change the direction of the microswitches later. I haven’t really measured the placement of the flippers accurately enough, so I’m not sure if they will fit at all. I’m hoping for a little luck on this one.



Next, it was time to apply the t-molding. It was a little tricky to start with, but I got the hang of it soon enough. I used a small hammer to knock the molding carefully into the pre-cut ’sockets’.



At the outside corners, I cut a V-shaped notch in the t-molding to make sure it was applied as firm and smooth as possible.



After attaching the flipper buttons and applying the t-molding to the side panels, you can sort of imagine how the cabinet will look like when it’s done. Or maybe not, but at least it looks promising so far.

Tomorrow I will apply the rest of the t-molding and start assembling the cabinet parts. Hopefully the marquee and control panel overlay will arrive tomorrow as well, so I can start wiring the control panel.

So, that’s all for today. Thanks again for reading and come back soon for another update!

[dekar24k]

Day II - Cabinet assembly and more t-molding

Today I have applied the rest of the t-molding and I also started assembling the cabinet parts.



The control panel needed t-molding as well. Good thing Mameroom included lots of it.



After applying the t-molding I took a sharp razor and cut it along the edges so it lined up perfectly with the panels.



It definitely looks a lot better after cutting off excessive t-molding.



Next, it was time to install the threaded pins into the side panels. They fit the pre-drilled holes perfectly, but remember to install them gently or they will crack the panels.



After finishing installing the pins it was time to install the assembly cams.



I tried first to attach the cams using my thumb, but the holes were so tight I had to use a hammer to knock the cams down with. Be gentle here as well or you will damage your panels. My hammer is from World War I by the way..



After all the cams were in place I could start assembling some of the cabinet parts.



The assembly is fairly easy, thanks to the drop-on assembly cams. A regular screwdriver is all you need.



I can’t really progress further now before I get the control panel overlay, but the package should be at the post office now, so hopefully I can start the control panel wiring tomorrow. Thanks all for reading and check back tomorrow for another update!

[dekar24k]

I also made a quick intro vid for Maximus Arcade.

[youtube]V3jf4wuqzho[/youtube]

The editing is really lame I know, but it's the first time I've ever edited a "movie" so I'll most likely make something better in the future.

I was going to do a chiptune version of "Bruce Springsteen - Glory Days" for the intro, but it ended up as something entirely different. Either way I got happy with the tune, but I might make some modifications in future versions.

[Hornpipe2]

Oh man, you write chiptunes?  Most excellent!  What name do you usually compose under?

[dekar24k]

Oh man, you write chiptunes?  Most excellent!  What name do you usually compose under?

Not any more, only for fun. I was active in the scene back in the BBS-days. I did old-school ascii and chiptunes under the name 'trasher'.

[dekar24k]

Day III - The control panel

* For full-size images, please visit my blog at www.xah.com

Hey all!

I received the control panel overlay and marquee a couple of days ago, so I have finally started working on the control panel now. You can check out my progress in the pictures below.



The prints were rolled up nicely and carefully packed in a “tube”. No damage whatsoever to the overlays.



After unwrapping the “tube” I was impressed by the high quality prints. Vibrant color prints with a scratch-resistant coating that can take a good beating. The control panel overlay is laminated with polycarbonate, the same material used in bulletproof vests.



Another shot of the prints.



First, I used masking tape to “test fit” the control panel overlay. I didn’t want to get it wrong, as you can’t adjust the overlay once it’s stuck to the panel.



Backside of the control panel, masking tape still attached.



I applied the overlay, making sure there were no air bubbles. After applying the overlay, I used a razor to cut out the holes for the buttons, joystick and trackball. I’m sure you can get these pre-cut from Mamemarquees.com, but I didn’t think of that when I ordered it, so I had to do it myself.



The easiest part was cutting out the hole for the trackball. All straight lines and more than enough room to handle the razor.



The holes were harder to cut, but after a few “practice runs” I got the hang of it.



After finishing the overlay it was time to start mounting the pushbuttons, joystick and trackball.



Fastening the joystick was rather easy. Tip: Put a few drops of glue between the panel and the joystick plate, so that you can align it properly before fastening the wooden screws. You want to align it with the panel’s joystick hole (adjusting it from the printed side of the control panel) before you fasten the screws and that is tricky if the joystick plate is completely loose.



After the joystick and buttons were attached, it was time to fasten the trackball. I don’t know if you can see it, but I missed a bit when drawing the control panel graphics. If you look at the 1-Player button and the one next to it, you can see that it’s not perfectly aligned with the brown circle.. Oh heck, beginner’s mistake I guess. Doesn’t matter much really, as you can hardly notice it.



Mounting the trackball was rather easy as well, thanks to the mounting plate kit. I’ve heard they are hard to mount without the kit, so I’m glad I ordered it along with the trackball.



So there you have it, the control panel is all set for wiring! I’m quite happy with the design, even though I screwed the graphics up a bit on the top buttons.



Test-fitting the control panel to make sure that nothing collides with the side flipper buttons.



I got lucky! I didn’t take the joystick switches into consideration when drilling the side flipper holes, so I’ve been afraid that they wouldn’t fit properly. As you can see, it’s not much room between them, but it’s more than enough to fasten the wires, so it’s all good.

So, that’s all for today folks! Check back soon for the next update, where I will wire the control panel and start assembling the cabinet and computer parts. Peace!

[The Evil Collector]

Looks fantastic!  To bad you couldn't do something different with the trackball. It covers up alot of your artwork 

[Octo]

I would definitely consider getting another sticker to replace what's covered by the trackball plate. That are had some of the coolest looking art, but now it's a big, gray blob

[dekar24k]

I would definitely consider getting another sticker to replace what's covered by the trackball plate. That are had some of the coolest looking art, but now it's a big, gray blob

What I could do, is order another copy of the CPO print from mamemarquees, and then cut out a square overlay for the trackball plate. I'm not sure how well the overlay will stick to the trackball plate though. I might figure something out, but I'm not sure I will do something about it right away. Thanks for the kind words btw.

[sju4sju]

Hey dekar24k, I see you're from Norway; Me too..
How much was the shipping for the bartop kit? 'Cos the estimates on the mameroom site are like $2-300 for a 2-player control panel kit, which seems a tad high

[dekar24k]

Hey dekar24k, I see you're from Norway; Me too..
How much was the shipping for the bartop kit? 'Cos the estimates on the mameroom site are like $2-300 for a 2-player control panel kit, which seems a tad high

Hey man! Unfortunately the calculated shipping on Mameroom.com is correct. It's damn expensive to ship these kits from the US. I asked about shipping costs for a pre-assembled UAII cabinet as well and that would cost around $1,500 USD. 

[BASS!]

Btw they make a "zinc" plated tb plate that doesn't have the bumpy finish for like $1 less. Divemaster sells em. You can always recess that tb plate by borrowing someones router, then put the new graphic over everything. Doesnt matter if your not the best with tools as bondo will take care of all the fiddly bits.

[dekar24k]

Btw they make a "zinc" plated tb plate that doesn't have the bumpy finish for like $1 less. Divemaster sells em. You can always recess that tb plate by borrowing someones router, then put the new graphic over everything. Doesnt matter if your not the best with tools as bondo will take care of all the fiddly bits.

Thanks for the tip. I might look into it!

[dekar24k]

Day IV - Mounting the hardware

Hey folks!

I am still waiting for that wiring harness from Ultimarc which I need for the control panel, therefore I have instead been focusing on getting all the hardware mounted.



After some test-fitting, I marked the placement of the motherboard and started drilling the spacer holes.



I intentionally drilled the holes a little too tight, allowing the spacers to be screwed in, securely fastening them to the panels.



As I’ve mentioned earlier, I’m using an mATX motherboard, which suits perfectly for this type of project.



I had to be a bit creative to fasten the PSU, so I used a 3.5″ HDD plate from an old chassis and some fastening/foam tape for softening vibrations and securing the PSU to the panel.



PSU securely fastened to the cabinet. It could look better, but it really is sturdy.



You can see that after all the hardware is attached, there’s still plenty of room for the control panel wiring, power adapter(s) and monitor. I’m sure this can be done a lot prettier than how I’ve done it, but at least the hardware is properly secured and that’s all I wanted it to be.



.. And that’s all for now! Next up is mounting the monitor, which I predict will be a bit tricky. I really want that wiring harness to arrive soon as well, so I can finish this beast.

Thanks all for reading my blog and check back soon for an update!

[IG-88]

I like how you fastened down the mobo. I can't believe I never thought of that. I know on my bartops I use ALOT of hot glue. You can buy the industrial strength stuff and it works fantastic. It will also let loose too with a little "persuasion" I like it for the fact that you can glue hardware in odd places without having to do alot of measuring and fastening. I've used it on all the stuff inside the cab without a bit of problems so far...

[dekar24k]

I like how you fastened down the mobo. I can't believe I never thought of that. I know on my bartops I use ALOT of hot glue. You can buy the industrial strength stuff and it works fantastic. It will also let loose too with a little "persuasion" I like it for the fact that you can glue hardware in odd places without having to do alot of measuring and fastening. I've used it on all the stuff inside the cab without a bit of problems so far...

Thanks for the tip! I do have a glue gun here as well, but I was thinking of using it for fastening wires inside the cab. Also, the spacers lifts the mobo up a little so that air can flow underneath it.

[dekar24k]

Day V - Wiring the control panel

Hey all,

Well, I never received the wiring harness and I refused to wait any longer, so I decided to cut the Happ-connectors and solder them directly to the trackball wires. Did it work? - Yes, it worked perfectly (massive props to smalltownguy and mayhem at BYOAC for helping me out with this).



First, I drilled holes in the control panel to fit the Mini-PAC.



Four screws and a few rubber feet is all it takes to securely fasten the light-weight Mini-PAC adapter.



I had to open up the Logitech PC-speakers to make them fit inside the cabinet. I first tried to fit them with the chassis intact but the control panel wouldn’t fit at all. Not too much space to work with here to be honest.



Without the speaker chassis, they both fit perfectly in the cabinet without interfering with anything else.



When wiring the control panel, the only way I could connect the trackball was to cut off the Happ plugs (to the left) and solder them with the Ultimarc harness attached to the trackball. It worked perfectly and I have no idea why I didn’t do this a lot earlier..



Wiring all the buttons and the joystick was quick and easy, using the pre-clamped Mini-PAC harness.



It’s important that all the microswitches are grounded using a daisy-chain harness, or else they won’t work at all… - I know, this is probably the messiest wiring you’ve ever seen, but I’m not very good at this yet. I’ll try to make it look better on my next project, promise.



After wiring the microswitches, I hooked the Mini-PAC up to my desktop computer to make sure all the buttons and joystick worked perfectly. I also drink 6-7 bottles of soda every day.



If you look closely on this image you can see the wires I had to solder in order to make the trackball work.



After I finished wiring the control panel, I attached it to the cabinet. This was .. hell! It barely fits and I had to make sure I didn’t put too much pressure on any microswitches, wires or the speakers below. Also fastening it was damn hard and I wouldn’t have made it if I didn’t have an L-shaped screwdriver. I also mounted the marquee lights which you can see on the very top of the cabinet.



Fastening the marquee was quite easy. I just “sandwiched” the print between two pieces of plexiglass and fastened it with a couple of plastic retainers.

Yup! That’s all for today. Tomorrow I will try to tidy up the wires a little, mount the screen and hopefully install/configure the system. Until then, thanks again everyone for reading and check back soon for another update!

[dekar24k]

Day VI - Configuring the system

Hey everyone!

First of all; I’m sorry I haven’t updated the blog in a few days, but I’ve been busy doing other stuff than working with the arcade. Anyways, I am very close to finishing it all now and all I have left is a little tweaking and mounting a couple more things.



I chose not to mount the monitor the way Mameroom suggested, as it involved drilling holes in my monitor chassis and fastening it to the cabinet using wooden screws. Instead, I picked up a monitor/TV wall-mount, which will allow me to easily dismount the monitor, should it be necessary.



Two massive wooden screws attaches the mounting plate to the wooden panels. This is a very sturdy way of mounting a monitor and I can easily “slide” the monitor in and out of it’s mounted position.



After installing the monitor, it was time to start configuring the system. The system will run on a tiny Windows XP Pro setup (using Nlite to remove unwanted programs and services). The system boots in only a few seconds, which is optimal for an arcade cabinet.



After installing the OS it was time to start copying over all the software and ROM files. My ROM collection exceeds 100GB so it took quite a while to copy it all over.



Then it was time to configure my control panel the way I wanted it. Since I want this arcade cabinet to function entirely without a mouse or keyboard, it was important to set up a few shifted buttons to cover all necessary administrative tasks. Using Ultimarc’s WinIpac Panel Designer util, this was easy.

So, I’ve got the OS installed, the roms copied over, emulators are installed and the control panel is configured. Today I will focus on tweaking the OS and emulators, making sure that everything runs flawlessly. I’m going to completely cloak Windows XP so that the system boots directly into the Maximus Arcade frontend and you won’t even know what operative system the box runs on. After I’m done with that, I will mount the monitor bezel and the back-panel. I also have a couple of buttons coming with FedEx today that I will slap on the frontside of the control panel (for volume control, load/save etc.). I’ll show you when I’ve mounted them.

So, that’s all for now! .. When I’m updating next time, I’m most likely finished with the cabinet. I’ll see if I can put a video together as well, showing it in all it’s glory. Peace!

[dekar24k]

Day VII - The finishing touch

Hi all, I’m happy to say that the project is finished and I’m very happy with the results, considering it’s my first arcade.



After installing all the emulators, roms, testing, fixing bugs, testing again, fixing more bugs and then some more testing; the system was finally customized and fully functionable just the way I wanted it. It was time to finish the arcade cabinet by attaching the monitor bezel and the back panel.



I temporarily attached the plexi-glass and used masking tape to trace the screen.



Then; I removed the plexi and covered the entire “monitor surface” with masking tape. Make sure you have the entire surface covered, even the tiniest breach in the masking tape will mess up the paint job.



After using a razor blade and a ruler to carefully cut off the excessive tape, it was time to do some painting. I used spray paint, but I’ve heard that you can also use latex paint to paint the bezel with.



I sprayed a layer of paint, then let it dry for a while, then sprayed another layer etc. I believe it took 4-5 layers before the plexi was sufficiently covered.



I was surprised how nice the bezel looked when I faced the painted side inwards and let the light shine through it. I was very happy with the results on this one.



While the bezel was put away to dry, I started attaching the back panel. As the back panel is the best (only) way to access the cabinet’s hardware, I believe it shouldn’t be fastened using wooden screws. Instead, I used a pair of hinges so I can easily open and close the back panel in case the cabinet needs service of some sort.



Now I can just flip the back panel down, whenever I need to access the cabinet’s hardware.



I also attached the power button on the back panel. This is a power button I ripped out of an old ATX cabinet I had lying around. It’s actually pretty cool because the button is huge and it can be illuminated. Since I’m using a powerstrip inside the cabinet, all the hardware (marquee lights, computer, monitor, speakers) are switched on by the push of this button.



I also picked up a black wooden list which I thought would be a nice way of “separating” the control panel from the plexi/bezel.



I spilled a little glue when attaching the list to the plexi, so I will try to get a broader list tomorrow as a replacement to this one. It’s hard to see the black list in this picture, but it actually gives the cabinet a nice finish and looks pretty cool.



So what am I doing here? Well, a couple of days ago I decided I didn’t just want to put the bartop cabinet on top of a bar (or table), so I decided to “convert” it into a mini-cabinet instead. Therefore, I went to IKEA this morning and picked up a nice black dresser of some sort. It is as plain as it gets and it really looks good sitting underneath the cabinet.



After putting the dresser/cupboard/whatever together, I put some black molding tape on top of it to fasten the cabinet and to prevent vibrations. The camera blitz makes the dresser look brownish on this picture, but I assure you, it’s almost the same color (black) as the arcade cabinet and it fits perfectly.



No one wants a dirty arcade cabinet, so I wiped it off thoroughly before attaching it to the dresser arcade stand.

….

Ladies and gentlemen, I’m proud to present to you the final result …



I’m finished. Done. Finito! The picture above does not bring justice to the cabinet at all, as the blitz makes the screen and marquee look very dark. Actually the screen is bright and colorful, while the marquee really lights up good in the dark.

I will now take some decent pictures of the arcade cabinet and also put together a video showing “Glory Days” in all it’s glory. Check back tomorrow for a proper presentation of the cabinet.

Now, it’s time to play some games.. Aaah, I’m so happy. Peace!

[ivwshane]

Other than the trackball plate I love it!! It looks sexy as hell!




I really think you should redo the trackball, your artwork looks great and it's almost completely covered up!

How heavy would you say it is?

[dekar24k]

Other than the trackball plate I love it!! It looks sexy as hell!




I really think you should redo the trackball, your artwork looks great and it's almost completely covered up!

How heavy would you say it is?

Thanks! I might redo the entire control panel, but I'm not ready to start on it yet. I'm not sure exactly how much it weighs, but it's heavy enough to not move an inch while playing on it, while it's light enough to be transported to another location.

In the future I'll redo the control panel, add a better speaker system and perhaps a light gun + SNES controllers.

I'm going to post a video later today, so stay tuned.

[severdhed]

i like it..it looks really nice

[dekar24k]

i like it..it looks really nice

Thanks! I appreciate your kind words.