What chassis are these ?

[Level42]

I found a link to a (new?) arcade parts on-line store in Sweden, which is nice for us Europeans.

They also sell monitor chassis:

http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/index_eng.htm

(See Monitor,parts)

Does anybody know anything about these chassis ?

They sell a "budget" version:
http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/images/prodimages/chassis_14-20.jpg

and two "high quality" chassis:
http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/images/prodimages/HC-02.jpg

and

http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/images/prodimages/HC-05.jpg

Does anybody recognize these chassis and/or know anything about quality.

The HQ ones are reportedly to be a "Ming Dong":

See: http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/images/prodimages/HC-02.txt

http://www.mindongpower.com/en/index.asp

Must say I like the set-up of the width-coil on the first two ! They sure did a better job on that than any of the well known brand of the 80's.

[grantspain]

all that stuff is chinese made and i reckon that is figge from AO forums new japandeal shop he was talking about

i hear the quality of these chassis is ok-the price is amazing tbh

[Level42]

Indeed, if you deduct the price of a cap-kit and/or flyback it's even more nuts....

I'd prefer to re-cap a working monitor, but I'm strongly thinking about getting a couple of these chassis for my Hantarex monitors which seem to be troubled chassis anyway.... If you take the amount of time required to fix an old PCB set into consideration it's a no-brainer.

I mean the cheapest are €34.- INCL.shipping.....insane...and the fact that they are sent within the EU means NO import duties/taxes.

The most expensive one if €66.- and if I understand the Engrish text those work for _all_ yoke impedances which is a feature I haven't seen on the Wei-ya or Jin-Sheng chassis before. They also can handle every tube size thinkable.
I also like the auto-ranging mains feature (no isolation transformer I guess), and the remote pot PCB.


Grant, what are the AO forums ?

[grantspain]

arcadeotaku,i call it AO as i can't bothered to type it out
I saw a chassis the other day that maybe one of these,it had a jumper for 6 different horizontal yokes inductances
auto range means it will run on anything from 85vac to 265vac without the need for an iso transformer
I may get one of those chassis just to mess around with(need an uber geek emotion) as i have 12 new 29" crt without any chassis

[Level42]

OK thanks.

It looks like this chassis simply has two yoke connectors. I guess one for high, one for low impedance.

[Ken Layton]

Those two yoke connections are for flipping the picture (mirror) not high-low impedance.

The "budget chassis" is merely the usual Wei-ya/Huai 800 series sold by Alva Amusement.

[grantspain]

the chassis i saw the other day(very briefly) had a jumper to go to the following
1.7mh
1.4mh
1.2mh
0.900mh
0.330mh
0.295mh

not sure if was one of the above or not
bloody marvelous to be able to buy cheap chassis in europe for the first time ever though,this guy is gonna make a killing

[Ken Layton]

Yeh but for Europe the chassis has to be RoHs compliant though, doesn't it? That means lead-free soldering troubles for sure.

[Level42]

Yeh but for Europe the chassis has to be RoHs compliant though, doesn't it? That means lead-free soldering troubles for sure.

Sssssshhhhhh......

[Level42]

Those two yoke connections are for flipping the picture (mirror) not high-low impedance.

The "budget chassis" is merely the usual Wei-ya/Huai 800 series sold by Alva Amusement.

Really ? Can't make out the louzy pic on Alva's site.

Here are the Ming-Dong chasis:

http://www.mindongpower.com/en/product.asp?class_code=0008

[grantspain]

yeah Ken is right about that plug

[qrz]

Yeh but for Europe the chassis has to be RoHs compliant though, doesn't it? That means lead-free soldering troubles for sure.

the trick to working with that crap is have a HOT iron (700 F) and 1st resolder the connection with 60/40 solder.
once done , it will wick up or vacuum desolder quite cleanly ...

qrz

[Level42]

Ah, it was too good to be true....still, as far as I can read it, this one should be able to "handle" all impedances...

http://www.mindongpower.com/en/product_detail.asp?class_code=0008&id=58

Now, if it came with multiple neck-boards to handle the various CRT's, this would truelly be a universal chassis. (And a great CRT tester).

It looks to me like the guy from that shop mixed some chassis pictures/info around....

Anyway, I need to get some info about the impedance on my Hantarex 90, 900 and 900E monitors....

Any site I can reference for that info ?

[Level42]

Yeh but for Europe the chassis has to be RoHs compliant though, doesn't it? That means lead-free soldering troubles for sure.

the trick to working with that crap is have a HOT iron (700 F) and 1st resolder the connection with 60/40 solder.
once done , it will wick up or vacuum desolder quite cleanly ...

qrz

The whole idea of getting these chassis is that it's not neccesary to do any soldering anymore at all.

Even _IF_ they brake down after a couple of years, you put in another chassis. Starting up your soldering iron costs more 

[Level42]

Grant, this guy should have a stand at the Insert Coin ! 

[Kevin Mullins]

The "budget chassis" is merely the usual Wei-ya/Huai 800 series sold by Alva Amusement.

That's what I thought, especially after seeing the HC-05 chassis.
That one looks a lot like the old Wei-Ya / Eygo / Pro Max / Whatever Name chassis.

[Ken Layton]

Hantarex 900E yoke:

Vertical: 15 ohms (brown & red wires)

Horizontal: 2.5 ohms (orange & yellow wires)

[Level42]

The "budget chassis" is merely the usual Wei-ya/Huai 800 series sold by Alva Amusement.

That's what I thought, especially after seeing the HC-05 chassis.
That one looks a lot like the old Wei-Ya / Eygo / Pro Max / Whatever Name chassis.

I'm confused, that picture is from the "HQ" (66 Euro) chassis but you mention the "budget" one ?

And thanks Ken ! I read these specs on the budget chassis:
VR: 8 ohm, VL: 20 mh, HR: 1.5 ohm, HL: 1.2 mh.

Would those values be too low for the 900E yoke ? Sorry if this is obvious...

[grantspain]

Grant, this guy should have a stand at the Insert Coin ! 

i am not sure he would travel from sweden but he has everything that anyone needs-bloody brilliant stuff
the organisers are discussing this fella at the moment

[Level42]

Just checked this out:

http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html

Says you can simply measure the resistance with a multi-meter to see if it's high or low impedance. I guess the Hantarex is low impedance as per Ken's figures, so the budget set should work on it.

Will measure the three 900's I have. They don't all have the same CRT, but I guess the yoke will always be either low or high impedance for a certain chassis ?

[Ken Layton]

The Hantarex 900 and 900E are different, but I think the yokes are within pretty close specifications of each other to qualify as the "low impedance" type to use with their "budget" chassis. Hantarex uses the 10 pin (9+1) neckboard.

The "replacement" chassis will use the industry standard yoke wiring colors of red & blue for horizontal and green & yellow for vertical. Naturally the Hantarex yoke wire colors (as well as the yoke connector) are different so some splicing will be needed.

Oh yeah, those prices on flybacks at japandeal are excellent: $5 for a flyback! Now that's my price range!

The budget chassis:

http://www.grebo.eu/arcadegames/shop/images/prodimages/chassis_14-20.jpg

That's a Wei-ya 814/820/822 (14" thru 22" respectively) which requires an isolation transformer.

[Level42]

OK, I've got 5 Hantarexes.

One is in my Joust and "works" but is showing bad "halo" effects. It's a 900 afaik.
Two I bought from a guy some time ago as spares, one a 900, the other 900E.
One is in my Puckman (90 !)
One is in the Konami GT cockpit, but I haven't even looked at it yet.

I just examined the 900E and this one actually uses a 8 pin CRT (Videocolor A51-421X).
The manual also shows various neck-boards for various CRT's they apparently used.
This one has neck-board NE1.

Resistance I measured was 14.7 Ohms between Red and Brown, 2.3 Ohms between Orange and Yellow. So looks to be low impedance indeed and exactly what you wrote earlier Ken.

Good tip about the iso. Not a real problem as all the cabs have them on board and are providing 110VAC for the monitors anyway.

I also just checked the fuses and all are OK. Still the monitor acts completely dead. Could this one be set-up for 220VAC instead of 110VAC ? Sadly the type and model sticker which usually show this is gone....

[Level42]

OK, so I've read some info on another forum saying that resistance says nothing if you can use a replacement chassis or not. Until now, I assumed that a yoke would either be low or high impedance and that anything above 35 Ohms would be high and anything lower would be low and that a "low" chassis (f.i. 8 ohms) would work with a "low" yoke (14 Ohms).

Can somebody give any definite info about this ?

Also Ken, I think you reported that the Wei-ya's were at least OK in your book ? You put them in machines that are on location ? I will only do "home use" only so I expect them to last reasonably long enough ?

[Ken Layton]

Inductance (rated in milliHenrys) and the resistance of the existing yoke are important factors in determining which chassis to use and whether it will work. Never use a high impedance chassis with a low impedance yoke or else you'll have a great fireworks show when you power it up!

Actually anything above 20 ohms on the vertical winding of the yoke would be considered a high impedance.

Yes I have used Wei-ya replacement chassis on location and they have worked well for me. I just recapped one Wei-ya on location a while ago. It had been there 5 years and finally needed a capkit. Picture looks great!

[Level42]

Thanks Ken. I understand not to switch low-high but would a low 8 Ohms chassis work with a low 15 Ohms yoke ?

Or do I have to really know the inductance of both (chassis is no problem, but I don't have a meter for it to check the yokes I  have around).

[Pac-Fan]

Work yes (i.e. not fry anything) but will have a picture with significant geometric distortions typically.

For 19", I've only found < 13 ohm on 1 type: WG K46xx series.

Hantarex 900 and WeiYa/JenShin replacement (low impedence versions) all expect 13-15 ohms, and connecting these to a 8 ohm K4600 yoke results in very bad pincusion and corner tearing, as well as a narrow picture IIRC.

For me, the Hantarex 900 and JenShin have had the utmost compatibility with random TV tubes (with attached yokes) in the 13-15 ohm range. Pop them in and they just work and are geometricly correct. Some tubes, mainly Orion, work *really* well in these chassis and give a picture as good or sometimes slightly better than a freshly capped Nintendo Sanyo 20EZ. (In other words, very tight sharp pixels with accurate color and no blooming/focus changes with brightness change)

WeiYa chassis have proven more fickle with random donor tube/yokes. They tend to have softer focus, and blooming and pulsing problems when brightness changes , and have more geometric issues until you happen to find just the 'right' yoke.

I've connected 8ohm 19" tubes (basically almost all old K4600 RCA tubes or a handful of TV finds) to all of these low impedence chassis and the results were not acceptable, and likewise the other way (trying to use a 15 ohm TV yoke on a K4600 chassis).

Admiditedly I have not yet tried a high impedence WeiYa or JenShinn since almost all donor TVs I find are low impedence, and the stack of high impedence tubes I do have all have way too much burn from a G07 or K4900 already to make sense buying a new chassis for;  or are 12 pin tubes from the overseas made earlier chassis.

[Level42]

Thanks very good info. However, in this case the chassis are indicated as 8 Ohms:


I've got two Videocolor tubes on my Hantarex 900's and both have this tube:
 
-Videocolor A51-421X
-8 pins
-resistance between Red and Brown (vertical): 14.7 Ohms, between Orange and Yellow (Horizontal) 2.3 Ohms

Now you say the Wei-Ya's have the (about) 15 Ohms resistance but Kevin told here that these chassis _are_ Wei-Ya's right ?

Anyway, think I'll be checking out the HQ model anyway. The energy saving power supply part is interesting enough for me. The less power used in the gameroom, the better for the energy bill.

Can't find the data about the impedance of that chassis though so I'll mail the seller.

[Ken Layton]

How to convert a Hantarex monitor with a Jen Shinn (8liners.com) replacement chassis:

http://www.retroblast.com/2006020558/Articles/25-Hanatrex-Polo-Monitor-to-8Liners-Chassis-Conversion.php