Nanao MS9-29 OSD Help

[srarcade]

Hello,

I have a Nanao MS9-29 that I am bringing back to life. Currently when I power up it seems the vhold and hhold are all way off but the OSD is completely out of readability as well. What I need is the number of button presses to get to the vhold and hhold adjustments on the OSD menu so that I can do it blindly. I have been messing with it and was able to identify hpos and degauss but thats about it, I believe its the 9-11th item to select from?

I also posted this at arcadeotaku but haven't heard much response, any help appreciated.

Thanks!

[northerngames]

if there even seperate.

try going composite sync where H and V are together if you have them seperated.

my Ms8-26SU dont do seperate H and V no matter what I had tried so they needed to be twisted together and put on the H input of the monitor chassis

you may get a more still picture with composite over seperate so it may help some but then and it may not do anything for ya.

[srarcade]

Thats a interesting idea. This cab was originally wired for sega model 3 but I have purchased a conversion harness to change it over to JAMMA so I'm not sure how the harness handles the 2 sync wires.

Either sync is off on wiring, settings are off in the OSD or theres a bad coil on the chassis pcb. I'm hoping its just a OSD setting.

[northerngames]

yeah try taking your V wire that goes into the monitor chassis and make it toach the H wire.

pretty sure jamma runs seperate sync stock were your nanao may want a composite sync only like mine.

I am not saying it is your golden ticket but it is worth trying real quik.

[Kevin Mullins]

pretty sure jamma runs seperate sync stock were your nanao may want a composite sync only like mine.

JAMMA runs Negative Composite as it's "standard". (one sync line)

I'm not looking at a manual or anything, so make sure you have it connected to whatever that monitor requires for Negative Composite Sync.

Are you running a regular JAMMA board or is this some MAME configuration?

[srarcade]

Ok so good news- Made a jumper for the jst monitor connector from v-sync to c/h-sync and ta-da! I got OSD! Now, once that came up I can tell the monitor is in 24khz mode which is why my picture is so messy. I thought this thing was auto-sensing but I guess not. I can't figure out on earth how to switch it to 15khz mode. I had a few pages of the manual but they were all in japanese, I'm going to try taking a second look at those but if anyone knows how to switch it, that would be terrific! Soo close...   

Edit: kevin- I am running arcade boards, all of which are jamma 15khz era ish.

[Kevin Mullins]

Don't quote me on this..... but I believe most of the switchable Nanaos have a physical plug you have to move on the main chassis. One spot for 15khz the other for 25khz.

Look up in the area I circled in the pic, but be sure to READ the chassis to see if it's marked.
I damn sure don't want you to arc and spark something on my account.
Some monitors have something similar that just flips the picture.

[srarcade]

Yea that pic is the MS9-29A which is the predecessor to the model I have which I wish I had right now. They upgraded the later models with the OSD and auto sensing capabilities so theres very few things on the PCB to actually adjust, I don't have any jumpers or anything like that to force the mode. It doesn't seem to be auto-sensing the 15khz signal for some reason. The OSD controller has 3 buttons IN/OUT/MODE, UP, DOWN. It only controls the basic settings but not vert or horiz hold values or geometry, just positioning. The other thing is there is a pot for H-DRIV on the board thats glued into place, I'm not sure if this is the master horizontal control or not but I haven't touched it yet, I want to find out more info before messing with the glued pots.

I was just repairing another one of these the other day and have a pic of it before I started working so its very dirty but this cab has the same chassis running on it:

[northerngames]

I was not sure of the jamma sync as I have not really dealt with to many jamma boards.

my MS8-26SU requires the end user to remove a large molex plug from the high 25K pins to low 15K pins in order to switch the res's

I would leave the glued pots alone for now.

 

[grantspain]

thats not a ms9 its a ms2931 digital tri sync chasssis,i am sure its auto ranging but i also remember seeing a post from someone regarding this a while back so i have a look about

what would be great is if you can post a photo of a standard jamma 15khz board running so we can see exactly whats happening

also to get extended test you need to hold the service(menu) button down on power up for 10 seconds(i think)

[srarcade]

Thanks grantspain! I've had a few of these for quite some time someone told me it was a MS9-29 when I first got them, I had never seen one before either so thats what I've gone off of. I will post a pic after work. I did try the press and hold but for no more than 5 seconds, I was just guessing if that was a function or not. I will definitely try the 10 seconds. I remember seeing a few pages in the manual (all in japanese of course) and it had more features on the OSD menu than mine offers so that might be the trick!

 

[srarcade]

Ok I got home and tried hooking up my DC directly to the VGA port on the monitor and ta-da! I got perfect image!!  If i press the OSD button, it clearly shows I am in 31khz mode. So for which ever reason, my 15k mode is not working correctly, it is sensing as 24khz.

I would take a pic but I left my camera turned on last time I plugged it in the computer so its recharging at the moment, maybe late tonight it will be ready.

[grantspain]

i remember ordyne telling me about a problem with these monitors frequency switching circuit-he would not elaborate though as he has a business to run
i think it may be a diode but i am not sure

[srarcade]

Yea I think I know where that is on this, its a small pcb by itself soldered into a connector, it does have a diode on it. Now the game is stuck on 31k mode, 15k boards will no longer cause the monitor to power on. I will try swapping out the sensing circuit to see if that does work.

Also, cbartek just informed me he plugged in a Wei-ya 29in chassis on one of these tubes today and it actually works with some minor imperfections on geometry. I have never heard of a replacement chassis from wei-ya, i've always assumed you needed the rodotron 666b. This might be my ultimate solution, just waiting to see a pic of his result first.

[grantspain]

wei ya do the same range of chassis as rodotron
you need to read your yoke with a lcr meter for the inductance as that will give you the info to match a chassis