Need help! Sharp Image 33" Chassis

[AlucardXP]

Ok so heres the situation. I just picked up a Dynamo showcase cabinet yesterday. The guy had no clue what he was doing. He thought the monitor was bad so he bought a new one. Ends up he gave me both. The first monitor is a 34" RCA with a Sharp Image KTM-F Chassis. I havent tested it yet. The one thats in the cabinet now is my new problem tho.

Problem #1 - What model Chassis is it? It had a seperate control board with a degaus switch on it (not pictured)


Problem #2 - Both monitors have 4 wires on the neck (YBRG). The Sharp Image KTM-F has 2 rows of 4 pins (A+B). The Sharp Image chassis in the cabinet now has 2 rows but in a different order. I dunno the pinout. The connector on the 32" was cut in the middle so its 2pin and 2 pins.


Problem #3 - Due to the issue in problem #2, I hooked up the connectors wrong and fried the 2 resistors on the board...If anyone has the same monitor, or knows a monitor thats similar, I need the specs on the resistors

[AlucardXP]

I found a site that has a pic of the chassis but its listed for a 25" model. Mine was labeled for a 34" Philips. Its a Dual Rate chassis 

http://www.medi-gmbh.com/chassis/sharp_rgb.htm

[grantspain]

well one thing is clear,whoever plugged the chassis in the last time blew the crap out of the two resistors on the yoke terminal board
normally its red and blue for the horizontal connection,yellow and green for the vertical

[AlucardXP]

lol it was my mistake  . I dissasembled the cabinet when I was picking it up and I quickly unplugged the chassis. Any ideas of what those resistor values were? Or even a save value to use?

[AlucardXP]

well one thing is clear,whoever plugged the chassis in the last time blew the crap out of the two resistors on the yoke terminal board
normally its red and blue for the horizontal connection,yellow and green for the vertical

You were right. I plugged them in and bam...it works! Im just have sync issues now. I cant seem to get it to sync right. Certain screens the horizontal goes, some itll be solid but the screen will scroll vertically...Guess i got some more tinkering to do to get it right.

[grantspain]

well at least those resistors survived
as for your sync issue's-what is the video source?how have you wired the sync?have you tried the vertical and horizontal holds yet?
be aware when swapping boards it is quite normal to need to readjust some controls

[AlucardXP]

I have it stable right now...sort of...right now when it switches screens sometimes, it flickers once and catches. I guess I need more fine tuning. Itll loose its vertical sync depending on brightness control which I find really strange. Its atleast playable now. Ive tried 3 boards though. A Wrestlefest, TMNT, and a Naomi system with a capcom I/O board. All the wiring is good though. The guy who sold me the cabinet thought the thing was completely bad cause there was wires that were taped together but that was only because it had 3 different kick harnesses wired in and it was "dead" due to a bad power supply...oh well...Best $100 I ever spent 

[grantspain]

you can lock down the vertical sync by installing a 5k resistor from the vertical sync pin to the video ground
also make sure you are using video ground from the jamma and not another ground
also very important is to check your +5v at the jamma pin 3 and 4,you need around 5.10 as you are running a capacom i/o

[AlucardXP]

Ill give the resistor a shot tomorrow when radio shack is open. Im running video ground from the jamma connector and all my voltages are good. This is my 5th cabinet (and 3rd naomi setup...the other 2 are GD-Rom setups ) Ill update after I goto radio shack. Thanks for the help tho!

[grantspain]

you're not trying to run the 25" chassis on the 33" tube are you?

[AlucardXP]

you're not trying to run the 25" chassis on the 33" tube are you?

Im not positive if the chassis is for a 25" tube tho. The whole set came from a Time Crisis 4 and the chassis is labeled for a 34" Philips. I tried the KTM-F with the Philips tube and I get nothing at all. Seems like it doesnt wanna power up or fire the tube up. The KTM-F is labled also for the RCA tube that I have sitting around.

[AlucardXP]

Ok, Ill just update this again and maybe someone can help me with the 2 slight problems im having now.

The Dual Scan board is a SI134DS. It needs a simple rebuild to get the both V+H sync right. Not an issue and not on the top of my todo list. I got the KTM-F working. The odd thing was, when it was bolted to the monitor frame, it wasnt working (but was working when it was out and being tested). I tapped the bottom and it turned on. Cant complain. It works PERFECTLY. I only have 1 issue with the KTM-F -

Problem - When the vertical is adjusted to fit the screen fully, it looks like the image is a little shaky. If I close the pot all the way to make it small, its fine...Just looks like a small widescreen monitor. I have another dynamo with a 27" Neotec that does the same thing except on that monitor its adjusted a little larger and it holds the image steady.  Prob something simple tho and its not too annoying though.

My other problem is when the monitor is turned on, theres a snap/spark coming from somewhere on the main board. Both chassis did this. The SI134DS would do it 2x when turning on and once when turning off...The KTM-F does it once when turning on and once off. I think its cause theres ALOT of static coming from the monitor. None of my other machines do this. Anyone have any ideas?

[grantspain]

for the size problem maybe its a faulty pot,i guess you tried the vertical hold in conjunction

check for bad solder joints for the problem of starting

the snap sounds could be static,you need to check that the dag earth(earth braid) around the tube is reading to earth and that the connector to the neck card is in place

[AlucardXP]

Thats a bunch. Ill check that out tomorrow 

[eckenroed]

Unlike Wells Garner, the Sharp Image monitor boards need the syncs tied together, Horizontal and Verticle.  To use any game monitor with a Silver Strike, the contrast needs to be dumbed down a little and the Brightness up a little.  The Silver Strike uses real video and a game monitor is not used to the violent switch in pictures like a TV.  The SI-134R-DS can be used on a KTMF-33 yoke only in 15K mode.  You can't use it on the 25K(medium res) mode for long or it will kill either the board or the flyback.  There is a jumper on the board behind the flyback.  Make sure it is in the 15K mode.

[Ken Layton]

That picture looks exactly like the chassis I just got from a bowling alley overhead score monitor. I believe it's a Sharp Image SI-327DS (Dual Scan).

This one had a shorted bridge rectifier in the power supply section that blew the 4 amp fuse.