Monitor flyback problems

[sanousuke]

I have a blitz 99 arcade machine. Recently, the screen started flickering and it'd make a shocking noise.  I opened it up and turned it on to see where the problem is. On the Flyback, electricity is coming out (above where it says TLF 09-04) at random times and that is when it flickers.

I'm wondering is there is a way to fix it or do I need to buy a new one? I did a search on this site and found this link: http://arcadeshop.com/wgxy-fb/wgxy-fb.htm and that looks similiar to the one in my blitz arcade, but not exactly.

Also, if I need to replace it, are there some steps on how to take it out? It looks pretty difficult.

Thanks in advance.

[SirPeale]

That is NOT your flyback.  That's a flyback to an XY monitor.

Post what kind of monitor you have and we'll find you a replacement.

They're not hard to replace...IF you can solder.

[sanousuke]

I can't find out exactly what it is because the arcade is in my sisters bar which is about 2 hours away. I just got back from there. The monitor is 25 inches if that helps?

I can solder so I should be able to replace it if I get a new one.

[Kevin Mullins]

Like Peale said .... you will need to know EXACTLY what make and model it is.

Flybacks are very monitor specific.

[sanousuke]

Yeah, I was looking up some flybacks and there are many different versions. I will try to contact someone down there to look at the monitor and let you guys know.

[sanousuke]

Ok got it!. It's a Zenith monitor. Serial #: 0em167889.

[Kevin Mullins]

Umm.... no it's not.
That sounds like the information from the tube .... not the chassis.

Any way you can get a picture of the circuit board?

[Ken Layton]

Or go to the monitor ID websites first to look at the pictures.

[qrz]

sounds like a classic arcing fly...

a THICK covering of silicone rubber around the affected area can be a "band-aid".
but, replacing the fly would be the best

"TLF" is a valid flyback prefix.  just need the rest of the number .    such as  " TLF16945 "

qrz

[sanousuke]

It's been a while since I posted because I didn't have any information until now. I just got the chassis out of the arcade and I been looking at it for a while. It's not clear to me which info is needed on this board, but I think this is it:

   chassis
  serial no:
wg 924664

sounds like a classic arcing fly...

a THICK covering of silicone rubber around the affected area can be a "band-aid".
but, replacing the fly would be the best

"TLF" is a valid flyback prefix.  just need the rest of the number .    such as  " TLF16945 "

qrz

There actually was some silicon rubber on another part of the transformer, so it sounds like it messed up before. I would like to just replace it since I've already destroyed it by cutting the wire.

All it says on the transformer is "TLF 09-04" and on the top of it "27 42 0"

I appreciate all the help. I've been forced to look all this up on google and I learned a lot.

[Ken Layton]

All you've established is that it's a Wells-Gardner monitor. Do you know how many billions of different models they make?

Have you visited the monitor identification sites yet and looked at the pictures of the monitor chassis?

And of course you read this first, didn't you?

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62016.0

[Kevin Mullins]

Is there a "P" number printed on the main chassis somewhere? (like P790, P758, etc)

[sanousuke]

All you've established is that it's a Wells-Gardner monitor. Do you know how many billions of different models they make?

Have you visited the monitor identification sites yet and looked at the pictures of the monitor chassis?

And of course you read this first, didn't you?

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62016.0

I'm sorry, I did not. I tried to give as much information as I can.  I know it can be annoying when people don't give a clear description. I will post a picture if all else fails, but batteries are dead at the moment.

Is there a "P" number printed on the main chassis somewhere? (like P790, P758, etc)

I just looked and I think I found what you are talking about. It says in bold black letters, "P448B." It's on the small square piece that connects directly to the end of the tube. It has 6 knobs, 3 labeled cut off and the other 3 labeled red drive, GRN drive and blu drive.

[Ken Layton]

Well that helps establish it as a k7000 series.

Order a new k7000 flyback from either Zanen Electronics or Bob Roberts.

[Kevin Mullins]

Yup, that "P" number you found is actually on the "neckboard" .... but still helps narrow it down.
You should find a similar "P" number on the larger "main chassis" as well. (like a P538)

And as Ken said, it's a K7000 series monitor.

So like a K7000 flyback replacement (053X0528-001) from Bob Roberts would work. $19.00
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#flyback

I tried to give as much information as I can.  I know it can be annoying when people don't give a clear description. I will post a picture if all else fails, but batteries are dead at the moment.

You're doing fine .... just have to understand that certain things especially monitor parts are VERY specific. So the information has to be correct or we can't help without possibly misleading you. And that would just create even more problems with your monitor.

BTW - What did you "cut" when you removed that chassis?

[sanousuke]

Yup, that "P" number you found is actually on the "neckboard" .... but still helps narrow it down.
You should find a similar "P" number on the larger "main chassis" as well. (like a P538)

And as Ken said, it's a K7000 series monitor.

So like a K7000 flyback replacement (053X0528-001) from Bob Roberts would work. $19.00
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#flyback

I tried to give as much information as I can.  I know it can be annoying when people don't give a clear description. I will post a picture if all else fails, but batteries are dead at the moment.

You're doing fine .... just have to understand that certain things especially monitor parts are VERY specific. So the information has to be correct or we can't help without possibly misleading you. And that would just create even more problems with your monitor.

BTW - What did you "cut" when you removed that chassis?

Great! I just ordered the transformer from Zanen. Thank you everyone for all your help.

I cut the red wire of the transformer... I didn't know it just pulls right off. The transformer was broken, so doesn't matter anyways, right? Also, I cut some gray wire that was soldered to the neck at one end and soldered to a metal wire on the tube. I didn't have a solder gun with me to release it, so I just cut it.