Question about sanding an old cabinet

[Todd H]

I'm about to start sanding and painting an old Dynamo cabinet. Some parts of the black paint look ok, other parts look like there's a couple of layers of old paint. Either way I'm planning on repainting it with a semi-gloss black paint. What grit sandpaper should I start with? I was thinking of starting with a 100 grit sandpaper to remove some of the old layers and roughen up the rest. I know I shouldn't sand all the way to the MDF. After that, I was going to prime, sand with something finer like 600 grit, and paint. Am I on the right track? Any help would be appreciated.

[Todd H]

Nobody? I guess I'm going to have to figure this out by trial and error.

[javeryh]

I think you are going to have to feel this one out on your own (worst possible answer, I know).  I'd start with 100 grit and do exactly what you described.  That should be rough enough but you might have to go lower if you find yourself really struggling to remove the old paint.  Afterward, I'd sand the bare cabinet to 220 grit before applying the first coat of primer and then go up from there as you add coats of primer and then paint.   

[Todd H]

Thanks. It's funny that of all the tasks that will have to be done to finish this thing, sanding and painting scare me the most. I'm going to start this weekend. Hopefully it turns out ok.

[javeryh]

Thanks. It's funny that of all the tasks that will have to be done to finish this thing, sanding and painting scare me the most. I'm going to start this weekend. Hopefully it turns out ok.

It is easily the worst part about building/restoring a cabinet but it is probably the most important.  Patience is key.  If you rush, it will look rushed.  If you take your time it will come out great.  Easier said than done.  Good luck!

[Todd H]

I decided to just use laminate. I think it's easier and it looks nicer.

[Necro]

Depending on the uneveness, you still may want to sand down to ensure a nice smooth/flat 'lay' to the laminate. 

[Todd H]

I'm lucky that, except for a few rough spots, the wood is pretty even. Do I need to remove the paint completely or will the laminate stick to a roughed up side with some paint still on it?

[orion]

"I'm lucky that, except for a few rough spots, the wood is pretty even. Do I need to remove the paint completely or will the laminate stick to a roughed up side with some paint still on it?"

I would worry about the contact cement reacting with the paint and creating a gooey mess. As far as sanding and the grit that you use it would depend on what type of sander you are using. If you are using a belt sander, be real careful, they are pretty aggressive. If you are using an orbital sander, I personally start with an 80 grit paper (sometimes 60), as its less work, but its not bad advise to start with a 100 grit and see how it goes.

[Todd H]

Much obliged Orion. 

[orion]

You are quite welcome Todd H  It would be pretty hard to do serious damage with a random orbital sander. I would just fill any major gouges and nicks with wood putty and considering you are putting on a laminate, I would get as much the paint off as you can and not worry about fine sanding it down.

[ChadTower]

I prefer to use a heat gun and scrape off as much as I can before going to the sandpaper.  I get tired of paying for sandpaper sheets that last 5 minutes.

[orion]

"I get tired of paying for sandpaper sheets that last 5 minutes."
 
Yea there is that issue and sandpaper is one of those items I find to be a bit overpriced for what it is. That's one of the reasons I start with a lower grit, I get more wear out of the sheets... sometimes I actually get 7 minutes out of a sheet