Author Topic: WG Model No. 19K7689. - Horozontal sizing? (Read 3905 times)

moose · « **on:** September 01, 2008, 07:59:19 pm »

We recently started working on a couple of older arcade cabinets that were fitted with WG Model No. 19K7689. The games these cabinets came with display fully on the screen but anything else we've tried to attach will only display over half the screen, and then it seems to 'wrap', so we have half the full screen image and then half it again. I'm attachingn an image to show you what I mean. There is no horozontal sizing on the monitor controls.

Any suggestions?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #1 on:** September 01, 2008, 09:03:42 pm »

Yes there is a width control (a.k.a. "horiz. size"). Here is the link to the layout of the k7000 series from Bob Roberts' website.

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/k7000lyot.html

SirPeale · « **Reply #2 on:** September 01, 2008, 09:58:28 pm »

From that picture it looks like you just need to adjust the sync a bit. You normally have to do this from game to game unless two games share the same sync signal.

moose · « **Reply #3 on:** September 02, 2008, 03:24:46 am »

Quote from: Ken Layton on September 01, 2008, 09:03:42 pm

Yes there is a width control (a.k.a. "horiz. size"). Here is the link to the layout of the k7000 series from Bob Roberts' website.

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/k7000lyot.html

So, where is the width control? If it's C38 then I don't understand why it'd be built like that; there's a big metal sheet in the way of accessing it.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #4 on:** September 02, 2008, 10:26:56 am »

The layout picture clearly shows coil L1 is the width coil.

Read this also:

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/wc.html

moose · « **Reply #5 on:** September 03, 2008, 05:27:51 pm »

Okay, so I read that and did the adjustments (luckily it had the plastic tool sitting inside the coil), but i barely got any extra width out of it at all. Maybe half an inch after turning it to the maximum adjustment possible. Is there anything else I can do?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #6 on:** September 03, 2008, 05:35:25 pm »

Read this also:

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/width.html

moose · « **Reply #7 on:** September 03, 2008, 06:58:28 pm »

I wondered if it wouldn't end up being something like that. I was just hoping I wouldn't have to go replacing caps right off the bat :/ If I understand correctly, I have to swap out the current C38 and put a bigger one in? (all precautions for doing work on caps being taken of course)

moose · « **Reply #8 on:** September 08, 2008, 04:22:30 pm »

So after a long time trying to get tools together I finally get the cap off and all it has on it is:
394J200V
PFUf.d
Are there any good sites out there that will help me ID this and figure out what the next caps I should get would be?
TIA
edit: http://www.hylander.com/componentcodes.html <- tells me this is a .39uf 200v cap? Correct or no?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #9 on:** September 08, 2008, 10:06:15 pm »

Yes that is a .39 uf capacitor. That is the stock value that comes on a k7000 chassis. The next manufactured sizes are .33 and .47 uf. Try each of those and see what the size range becomes.

moose · « **Reply #10 on:** September 29, 2008, 06:32:36 pm »

In this image: http://homearcade.org/BBBB/k7000lyot.html, what's the neg comp sync and pos comp sync?

I just swapped this monitor into a tetris cab and it's not displaying fully vertically now. Horizontal is beautiful, but I can't fill out the bottom inch of the screen. I'm going to double check and make sure the sync cable is on the proper pin but other than that I'm stumped.
Pics below:

grantspain · « **Reply #11 on:** September 29, 2008, 07:00:49 pm »

thats a vertical frame foldover,have you messed with any high voltage cap values?

moose · « **Reply #12 on:** September 29, 2008, 07:22:08 pm »

Nope, just replaced the horizontal sizing cap.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #13 on:** September 29, 2008, 08:03:58 pm »

Adjust "V Damp" (vertical dampening) control.

moose · « **Reply #14 on:** September 29, 2008, 08:47:48 pm »

I haven't come across that one yet, where is it located? I've looked over the whole board (again) and still nothing jumps out at me.

sarge · « **Reply #15 on:** September 29, 2008, 09:31:14 pm »

Should be a pot on the monitor chassis labeled 50/60 Hz. Try adjusting that one.

moose · « **Reply #16 on:** September 29, 2008, 09:52:39 pm »

That did it! But only in conjunction with the vhold,size,pos pots too. Tetris looks gorgeous now and as soon as we're done redoing the bezel will be ready to make us quarters at the local pizza joint ^^ (legit cab, not mame)

Thanks so much for help on this, the old monitor had the worst case of burn-in I've ever seen.

moose · « **Reply #17 on:** October 07, 2008, 10:18:14 pm »

Well I had a second cab I wanted to make a mame out of, and it had the same model of monitor in it. I replaced the width cap with the same value of cap that I did for the tetris... and it wasn't wide enough :/
So I replaced it with the smallest cap I have and the picture is wide enough, but it's completely off center. It's like it's been shoved over half the screen and has wrapped around the other side. I have spent the past 40 minutes trying to adjust h-hold and h-pos AFTER replacing the h-hold pot (it was doing a bit of a 'jump' in the middle so I thought it might be bad), and still I can't fix the centering issue. Any suggestions?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #18 on:** October 07, 2008, 11:29:17 pm »

Was the pot you used as a replacement the same exact value? Was it soldered in nice and neat without lifting copper foil traces. Was the replacement pot confirmed good before you put it it? I've seen brand new pots that are bad out of the box.

moose · « **Reply #19 on:** October 08, 2008, 12:57:03 am »

No, I couldn't check it before hand. Does it at least sound like the right solution?

SirPeale · « **Reply #20 on:** October 08, 2008, 02:01:40 pm »

Don't you have a multimeter? It's a must.


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