How to make a European Monitor work in the States????????

[moloch]

I traded for this completely awesome Italian cabinet that seems to be like a Full size Candy cabinet. It seems to want 230v 50/60Hz which seems European to me.
I have included some photos.

My questions are:
1) This seems to not have an isolation transformer so I was wondering what kind do I need to get? Do I have to do anything special to make it work?
2) Should I just get one of these:
http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/step-up-down-transformer.html

I was thinking that I could use the step up down transformer to run the cabinet, if I can just figure out what iso transformer to get for the monitor.

[qrz]

double check the monitor . it may have a smps that could have an input range from 95-230v
  make/model ??
otherwise , the xformer is a solution

qrz

[moloch]

What about the isolation transformer issue? Do I need a European one or can I get one in the states that would handle this?

Also what would I look for on the monitor to see if it even needs an isolation transformer? I am guessing that there is some chance it does not need one.

[moloch]

Has anyone had any experience with these kind of connections on the monitor board? I would guess that the 3 wires are for power and the other connection is the video signal? I think that this monitor is multisync.

[moloch]

I cannot tell what the make or model is of this, here are a couple more pictures. There is some kind of selector, but I am not sure what it is between.

[Jack Burton]

"Monitor Electronic Systems" LOL

That's the kind of name that sticks out in a google search.

Have you tried calling that number listed below the manufacturer?

[Level42]

Yep that three pin connector is power. Black=phase, Blue=neutral, green=earth/gnd, at least, that's what the European standard colors are (compared to black and white for the US).

I don't think that will require an isolation transformer if it's not already in there.
What are the specifications on that switching power supply ?


Anyway, Bob Roberts sells isolation transformers that can be used with either 120 VAC or 230 VAC. You could use that and hook it up "backwards". Not sure if it can handle the required power of the entire cab though !

Never heard of that monitor brand....

Sleek cab though ! European design at it's best

[moloch]

I really should have gotten every image ready before I post....

I just got the cabinet tonight. I have not tried to call Italy yet.


This photo is actually from the guy that I got the cabinet from. He could not find any information on this anywhere.

[Level42]

Well, there's a phone number, give it a try !!!

[Level42]

Well that last pic says it all. 220/240 VAC. You're gonna need a step-up transformer for that.

[moloch]

the power supply in the bottom is a typical jamma supply. there is a plug that I think is the 3 power wires at the bottom near the power supply.

I am thinking that the transformer was taken out for some reason.

I know that this cabinet was used at the company that makes Golden Tee and that it was used for testing.

The coin mechs say 500 on them which I think is either Yen or Lire (sp).

[moloch]

Well that last pic says it all. 220/240 VAC. You're gonna need a step-up transformer for that.

I figured that, but is the isolation issue that I am most worried about. I am guessing that I can run the step-up off of the main power line and have the isolation transformer run off of that.

[Level42]

Why not use one transformer for doing both ? The one Bob Roberts sells does it as I mentioned, but it may be a bit small to handle the load of a complete cab....ask Bob...


I bet it's Lire, but that used to be the Italian currency (Spain had Pesetas).

[moloch]

Anyway, Bob Roberts sells isolation transformers that can be used with either 120 VAC or 230 VAC. You could use that and hook it up "backwards". Not sure if it can handle the required power of the entire cab though !

Can you actually hook up a transformer backward and have it work?

[moloch]

I bet it's Lire, but that used to be the Italian currency (Spain had Pesetas).

I think that this cabinet is Italian.

[Level42]

Sure why not ?

It's just two coils on each side of a metal body.

It doesn't know which side is in or out.

F.i. if you connect that transformer I mentioned on the 230VAC wires, it will have a 2:1 ratio, so the output will be 115VAC.

Suppose I would hook up 230VAC to the other side, I would get 460VAC on the other side. Not that you'd want that, but you can put 120 VAC on the "out" side and get 240 VAC on the other side.

The limit here is the required power. I'm sure Bob's will handle just the monitor, but not sure if it can handle the entire cab.

[Level42]

This may explain it better than I can:


Figure 1: A transformer is made from a pair of windings around a common core. It is modeled as a two-port circuit component.
 

 
Figure 2: The ratio of the number of turns in the windings determines the voltage and current ratios present in the windings. They go in opposite directions—if voltage is stepped up, current is stepped down, and vice-versa.
 
An ideal transformer will isolate the input circuit from the output circuit, transform the input voltage by the ratio of the number of turns in the windings, and be frequency independent. If the secondary has more turns than the primary, the voltage will be “stepped up”; if the secondary has fewer turns than the primary, the voltage will be “stepped down.” The current will change in an inverse fashion. That is, if voltage is stepped up across a transformer, the current will be decreased by the same proportion. This is as it must be to conserve energy. The power that comes out of a transformer must equal the power that is put into it, less any losses due to such factors as magnetic imperfections and resistive heating of the transformer windings.

[moloch]

The limit here is the required power. I'm sure Bob's will handle just the monitor, but not sure if it can handle the entire cab.

That seems brilliant. So I go from 120v to 240v using the transformer for just the monitor and I am good. I can get a different transformer for the rest if needed, but I think that the power supply can hook up to the raw 120v.

[grantspain]

have you tried to power this cab at 120v yet,the monitor is by a company that used to be called intervideo-its basically a rip off of the hantarex polo 2 dual sync
its the first monitor i have ever seen to run at 230v only,normally if a monitor states 230v then it a free range
the power supply looks like a wei ya,that should be a free range as well.it will be marked on the supply somewhere

[Level42]

I've got an Intervideo monitor in my Mame/Jamma cab.....but that's in storage so I can't have a look....

[moloch]

I have not powered it up yet because it is missing the isolation transformer. I will try to plug it in tonight or tomorrow.

[grantspain]

I have not powered it up yet because it is missing the isolation transformer. I will try to plug it in tonight or tomorrow.

if its all free voltage then it don't need an iso transx,the monitor has smps built in

[moloch]

I have not powered it up yet because it is missing the isolation transformer. I will try to plug it in tonight or tomorrow.

if its all free voltage then it don't need an iso transx,the monitor has smps built in

What on the monitor would tell me that it does not need a Isolation Transformer?
I am figuring that if the power connection that was identified earlier on this thread runs to the wires that are below that means that they plugged into something and that something can only mean transformer to me. I will do a continuity test on those wires later tonight or tomorrow.

[grantspain]

i can see a transformer,4 diodes(bridge) and a fet in the primary power supply circuit of the monitor-this is a smps and i have never ever seen a 230 only on a monitor with a smps-always with this its a 95-255v ac free voltage
but i guess there is always a first time,just never seen that in 22 years of arcade repairs

also its not my machine so go the safe way

[moloch]

i can see a transformer,4 diodes(bridge) and a fet in the primary power supply circuit of the monitor-this is a smps and i have never ever seen a 230 only on a monitor with a smps-always with this its a 95-255v ac free voltage
but i guess there is always a first time,just never seen that in 22 years of arcade repairs

also its not my machine so go the safe way

Thanks for the explanation.

There is a photo that I show of the side that has some kind of switch that is done by the wire. Do you think that needs to be switched?

I will get a better photo of it late tonight.

I am in the Seattle/Tacoma area and I will not get home tonight until 9 pm tonight from work.....

[Ummon]

That's similar to the sort of 'candys' that were 'upright', but actually looks cooler because they filled in the spaces.

[grantspain]

yes its a similar shape to the naomi family uni cabs(european/japan issue)

[moloch]

have you tried to power this cab at 120v yet,the monitor is by a company that used to be called intervideo-its basically a rip off of the hantarex polo 2 dual sync
its the first monitor i have ever seen to run at 230v only,normally if a monitor states 230v then it a free range
the power supply looks like a wei ya,that should be a free range as well.it will be marked on the supply somewhere

Ok I did some more poking around and some things are a bit clearer now.

The power supply is a wei ya and it has a selector that goes from 120v-240v. It was set to 240v.

The way that the power for the monitor works is that the power wiring for it goes straight to the outlet not to the bottom. So it looks like you are totally right. I was not doubting but just needed to double check. No Isolation transformer was in it.

I am only wondering if there is some kind of power switch that I am missing to go from 120-240v.

In one of the photos you can see that there is a yellow wire that can be plugged into different circuits. They read something like:
240
360

960
1,2
1,5
1,8

It looks to be plugged into "1,5". I have no idea what that means.

That part kind of freaks me out.

What happens if you plug a 120v into something that desires 240v?

[moloch]

i can see a transformer,4 diodes(bridge) and a fet in the primary power supply circuit of the monitor-this is a smps and i have never ever seen a 230 only on a monitor with a smps-always with this its a 95-255v ac free voltage
but i guess there is always a first time,just never seen that in 22 years of arcade repairs

also its not my machine so go the safe way

Ok after finding every thing that you said and really thinking about it I just decided to try it out. So see the photo to see the results.

It seems to work and look awesome. I really love this cabinet, except for the whacked control panel. I will have to fix that, but that is a different section of the forum..........

So far so good. If anything changes I will let everyone know.

[grantspain]

well done for being brave enough to try it out,
120v into a 240v setup=nothing will happen,no power no damage
240v into a 120v setup=you blow the crap out of at least a few diodes and a capacitor in any/all component parts

i am at a loss to what the link jumpers do,i would suggest never touching them.the plug next to the jumpers looks like it could be for the yoke,is this correct?
i am just wondering if this used to match the chassis to the yoke,perhaps the jumpers are for the horizontal yoke inductance-dunno,never seen that before

only jumpers i have seen before are for width

[Level42]

Have to admit that that is one of the blessings of the modern day power supplies. You can hook them up anywhere in the world and they just work. (Well most modern stuff does).

On the other side, all cabs I've got can be configured for any voltage worldwide too....