Asteroids Help

[nxwhitney]

So I just picked up an Asteroids (not Deluxe) arcade game and I am trying to figure the wiring for the coin door interlock.  The game was previously in a laundromat and had been vandalized and the entire interlock switch on the coin door is missing.  There are a pair of black and white wires that go into the switch and then back out again, but i only have the wires that come out of the switch.  I highlighted the suspects in the picture of the coin slot.  I have poured over the schematics and repair manuals but i cannot find the wires that are supposed to go into it.  If anyone out there has one of these or knowledge of them, could you point me in the right direction?

[WunderCade]

Congrats on your Asteroids.

Welcome to BYOAC. 

This thread belongs in Arcade Miscellaneous for repair help. When you get to the Restoration aspect, then return here to this forum to start a restoration thread.

[SirPeale]

This thread belongs in Arcade Miscellaneous for repair help. When you get to the Restoration aspect, then return here to this forum to start a restoration thread.

Which you should flag to let us know it needs to be moved. 

[Kevin Mullins]

I believe the black and white wires you are looking at are for an optional test switch that would mount just below the volume control.

Follow the wiring harness down/back a little farther from there and see if you can't see any larger gauge wires. (similar to black and white ones in the bottom picture)

[nxwhitney]

Just checked.  The only other smaller gauge wires down the harness are for the fluorescent lamp in the top. 

As I follow the the wires up into the harness I've found that they connect onto the harness for the coin slot, but they are also bridged.  The white leads back the PCB and the black leads up to the controls where it is bridged again and then goes back to the PCB as well.  More pictures of course...



The wires they connect to on the coin slot harness.



The bridge (black going to control board, then PCB; white going to PCB) at the coin slot harness.



Suspect wires at the PCB harness.

[nxwhitney]

I didn't mention this before, when it is plugged in and switched on, the fluorescent light on the top front is on and both LEDs on the PCB and the (white?) board up next to the monitor are on.  Also, as soon as I switch it on, you can hear a clicking coming from the coin slot.  I can see what it is, but can't describe it.  I can put up a picture if necessary.

[RetroACTIVE]

I didn't mention this before, when it is plugged in and switched on, the fluorescent light on the top front is on and both LEDs on the PCB and the (white?) board up next to the monitor are on.  Also, as soon as I switch it on, you can hear a clicking coming from the coin slot.  I can see what it is, but can't describe it.  I can put up a picture if necessary.

The clicking you hear is the lockout coil(s) engaging. 

[RetroACTIVE]

Your lockout switch is missing and so are all the wires that should go to it... It appears as if the ties on your main harness have been removed.... so whomever removed the lockout switch seems to have removed it all...

There should be 2 black and 2 white wires heavier guage (18AWG) that are connected from the interlock switch back to the main power block.

[nxwhitney]

I have those, but only for the rear interlock.  I assumed that the smaller gauge wires near the coin slot was the wires for the front interlock but after tracing the wires and comparing them to the wiring schematics, they are only for test switch as Kevin pointed out.  Thanks Kevin!

In looking at the rear interlock switch, there are two of clips that appear to be broken off.  Maybe those are the wires that would have gone to the front interlock?

[Kevin Mullins]

In looking at the rear interlock switch, there are two of clips that appear to be broken off.  Maybe those are the wires that would have gone to the front interlock?

Bingo...... and I was busy writing when I got beat to the rest of it.
But here goes anyways.

As for the interlock switch:
Quit tracing the smaller wires...... the interlock is part of the main power, which is the LARGE black and white wires. The interlock switch wiring does NOT go back to the PCB.

I don't think this was damaged during the vandalization since it should have been mounted to the cabinet itself, not the door. The lower coin meter is what actually comes in contact with it in order to activate the switch. And the picture of your wiring harness in that area seems to be "loose" like it has been into by someone. So maybe they removed and bypassed the switch even further down the line.
Is there still a back door interlock switch?

Also the fact that you say it fired up when turning it on leaves me to believe it's been bypassed. The interlock switches are there to prevent the machine from turning on unless all doors are shut.

If you have a red LED lit on the "white" (deflection) board next to the monitor then that means the "spot killer" is on. Which means there is either no signal from the game or the monitor itself has a problem. (most likely the monitor) Check all the fuses on that white board and let us know what you find. (don't mix them up though)

The clicking from the coin slot area is probably the coin lockout coil powering on.
It prevents people from loosing money if they put coins in the machine while the power is off. Basically the coin will just kickout through the coin return instead of going through the coin switches.
The only other thing that might "click" on the coin door is the coin meter. Turn the machine on and see if the number changes.

In the pictures I posted you can see the two smaller gauge wires that you were questioning and just how close the interlock wiring should be.   
So if they were there in your cab, then they should be pretty obvious.
You need to check for the back door interlock and then also investigate what might have possibly been changed further down the line towards the power supply and wall plug.

Sorry for the crap pics, but the sun was blaring right into the front of my storage building where this cab is.

[nxwhitney]

I just checked the fuses on the deflection board and they all appear to be not-blown.  There were a total of 5 that I saw, (2) 2-amp fuses and (3) 1.5 amp fuses (I believe...).  One thing of note however; there is a wire that appears to be seriously fubar.  It is white with a brown stripe and it leads back to a harness where it then connects to a tan wire.  That one appears to be running down to the power block.  Pics again...



Here is the white-brown stripe wire.  My wicked MS Paint skills highlighting for effect.  It's tough to see but the shielding on the wire appears to be have been cooked off.  No apparent damage below the harness though.



Here is the wire that Mr. White/Brown connects to.  I would say it's tan colored-ish, maybe?

[Kevin Mullins]

What monitor is that.... GO5-802 ?

[nxwhitney]

What monitor is that.... GO5-802 ?

M50-102, I think.  If you're referring to the Model No. that is.

[Kevin Mullins]

M50-102

No idea what that is ......... keep looking.

Look for the name Electrohome somewhere.
Or take a pic showing the full chassis.

EDIT: the more look at it, the more it looks like a Wells Gardner 19V2000
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/v2000.html

[nxwhitney]

Sorry it took me so long to reply...  I just took a decent pic of the label on the back of the monitor.

Here it is!

[RayB]

Sorry, that's just the tube. Look for stickers elsewhere.