Is this monitor a good choice?

[DaddyLongLegs]

Unfortunately when I bought my cabinet to convert to a MAME machine, I never noticed when buying it the monitor had a decent amount of fairly deep scratches in the glass. It's really annoying because on flat colors (like Dig Dug 2 especially) I get a "prism" effect over the scratches.

Anyway, I found someone selling a used 25" standard res monitor for $50 which is a steal to me. It's from a Beast Buster machine, which I wasn't able to find much info on. I wanted to make sure it was a decent monitor before I trek out to this guy, but more importantly, he said it has some light burn in. Is that something that can be repaired with a cap kit replacement? I checked the FAQ but burn-in didn't show up anywhere.

He wants me to pick it up tomorrow so I'd appreciate any responses from you guys!

[SirPeale]

Burn is permanent.  It can't be removed with a cap kit.  That's not in the FAQ?  It should be. 

Light to moderate burn usually isn't a problem.  You may not even notice during gameplay.

As for is this a good monitor, you didn't mention what make/model monitor.  If it's a K7000, I'd say yes.

[DaddyLongLegs]

Burn is permanent.  It can't be removed with a cap kit.  That's not in the FAQ?  It should be. 

Light to moderate burn usually isn't a problem.  You may not even notice during gameplay.

As for is this a good monitor, you didn't mention what make/model monitor.  If it's a K7000, I'd say yes.

I wasn't sure of the model number, just what game it was. But I don't think it's worth the drive if burn-in is permanent. Even at only $50, if I'm not going to use it, it's still a waste of money!

[SirPeale]

Again, it depends on how much burn there is.  a 25" monitor for $50 I'd totally get it (depending on the burn).  Something you'd have to see a picture of to judge.

Also, games can come with any monitor.

[DaddyLongLegs]

Well I got it today and it appears to be a K7000 like you said I should get, it's a 25k7193 specifically. Hopefully this is a good one but for $50 I can't complain!

[Mauzy]

Two of my monitors have burn in (one light, one moderate-heavy) and smoked Plexiglas makes it next to impossible to see during gameplay. If its light, this would be the best solution considering there is no cheap solution otherwise   

[DaddyLongLegs]

Two of my monitors have burn in (one light, one moderate-heavy) and smoked Plexiglas makes it next to impossible to see during gameplay. If its light, this would be the best solution considering there is no cheap solution otherwise   

That's a really awesome idea that I will look into.

I do have a question I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to, though. The reason I bought this monitor was because I didn't realize when I bought the first machine there were pretty heavy scratches on the glass of the display. I tried everything (glass scratch removers and such) and nothing worked, so I bought a new monitor.

THAT monitor has no burn in, and I believe the model number is exactly the same. Is there a way to just replace the glass between the two monitors? Or is that like a permanent part of the tube or something? That would be so awesome if I could swap them. Then I'd have a perfect monitor.

[SirPeale]

It's permanent.  Sorry.

[DaddyLongLegs]

OK thanks. I hooked it up today, but I must be doing something wrong. It's making a loud crackling noise for a good 5 to 10 seconds when I power it up. It worked fine at the guy's house so I doubt it's broken. Any help guys??

[grantspain]

if you are lucky its just some dampness around the anode cap,if you are unlucky you may have broken the tube

does it work o.k after 10 seconds?

[DaddyLongLegs]

if you are lucky its just some dampness around the anode cap,if you are unlucky you may have broken the tube

does it work o.k after 10 seconds?

All kidding aside it's 110 degrees here and I was sweating like a dog all over. Maybe that was it. I guess I should wait a bit then try again?

[DaddyLongLegs]

Thanks for the replies. I let it dry off of my disgusting sweat and it boots fine now, however there's still some crackle. If it helps, the crackling becomes way louder and more rampant when turned on but not receiving a video signal.

[Rickn]

Ok a few things... that large crackling is not a fire log, but it sure as hell can burn you.  If you are inside the cabinet make sure that you have an isolation transformer connected to the monitor.

If not at least that it is a switch mode monitor.

As I said most likely the crackling is High voltage, here is what to do:

- Again be sure you have an isolation transformer connected to the monitor. I don't always worry about it but, I know to stay away from the spark.

Ok lights out, power on in the dark... look for signs of arcing around the anode cap and flyback transformer.. make sure the ground wire from the CRT is connected to the ground pin on the neckboard.

By the way idf a lot of black carbon dust build up around the flyback or tube... probably already mentioned but, power down... dry rag, air compressor or leaf blower... get rid of it.

Look around the CRT socket where it plugs into the neckboard.... we are looking for bad sparkgaps.

AGAIN DO NOT GO NEAR THE ARC... if you see something suspicious power the monitor down ... unplug it.

Still nothing? Power off and remove the board, flip it upside down. Now in the dark again power up and look for signs of arcing, now we are looking for a cracked board

Ok if you saw nothing, look at the neck of the tube. If you see a small orange glow, this is normal (heater voltage). But if you see a bright orange glow with sparking, we have a dirt particle in the electron gun (need a rejuvenator... or there are a few more tricks that miht work.. let me know) Bright Blue glow with arcing now we are ready to throw it out... tube (most likely around the neck) has a crack and has gone to air.

Hope this helped

Rick@Niemandisplays.com

[DaddyLongLegs]

Wow, thank you for the very informative reply, but it is already hooked up to an insolation transformer. Also, I'm replacing another 25" WG with this one, because the other one had heavy scratches on the glass as I mentioned. The mount that holds the monitor in the cab will not let me use the metal "cage" that's bolted to the monitor. I've read since I will be taking that out I may have to do a discharge? Is this correct?

[DaddyLongLegs]

It turns out that little control board (the one that connects to a wire harness from the monitor so you can adjust the V-Hold etc. from the front of the cab) has a broken dial on it, rendering my monitor useless. Is there anywhere to buy replacements? I don't even know what they're called to google for it.

[SirPeale]

They're called "potentiometers".  Which one is it?

[DaddyLongLegs]

They're called "potentiometers".  Which one is it?

The V-Size one, but I assumed I needed a whole new board (it's about 2 inches by 3 inches for the entire board)

[SirPeale]

Welcome to the world of electronics repair.  You don't toss an entire dozen eggs if one is cracked, do you?  You replace the broken one. 

Is there a value embossed on that part somewhere?

[DaddyLongLegs]

Welcome to the world of electronics repair.  You don't toss an entire dozen eggs if one is cracked, do you?  You replace the broken one. 

Is there a value embossed on that part somewhere?

Good point, but the knob is completely broken off.

The only identifiable numbers I see is P802 near where the wires plug into, and on the back there's a 8264p-001.

Thanks if anyone can help!

[SirPeale]

I can't find the schematics, and I don't have a remote board here to check the value.  I'm sure someone will be along shortly to tell us what the value is.

[phi ho]

V size is 200 ohm pot.

[DaddyLongLegs]

V size is 200 ohm pot.

Cool, thanks. Do I just go to radio shack and buy a 200 ohm potentiometer?

[SirPeale]

I don't think they have them there, but you can check.  The kind you're looking for is called a "trimpot".  Bob Roberts has them, but you may want to get more stuff, as his minimum shipping is $7.00.

Or ask in Buy/Sell/Trade, someone may drop one in a padded mailer for you.

Have you soldered before?

[DaddyLongLegs]

Thanks. I'm pretty familiar with soldering. I tried wiring this dial back up to the board with wires but it didn't work! I guess the thing just was too broken.

This is exactly what my board looks like (except one of my pots is broken!)

http://www.arcadecup.com/ident/k7_remote.jpg

[DaddyLongLegs]

I got the controller working (had to buy a new one) but this new replacement monitor is EXTREMELY dim compared to the other one. Also I adjust V Hold and it stays eventually with much tweaking but after a dew minutes the picture starts rolling again.
Can I replace the chassis from my old WG with the "new" one? They're not the same model number as each other but they're close.

[grantspain]

perhaps you need a video amp for this chassis

[DaddyLongLegs]

perhaps you need a video amp for this chassis

this Wells Gardner is near identical to my old one and the old one definitely didn't need it. So I'm not too sure why this one would? I thought that had to do with the video card not putting out the voltage and stuff.

[grantspain]

dpends on the chassis,some can run at 1v and others like 5v
obviously you made the normal adjustments with the contast/brightness/colour gains/colour drives before deciding you have a chassis fault-if the chassis is indeed at fault then it could be something like the smoothing cap on the neck card g2-very common with many chassis
if you want to swap chassis then you do need to know the model numbers,a chassis swap is dependant on the yoke and tube size/neck pinout.

[DaddyLongLegs]

Thanks for the helpful reply. My monitor giving me the problem is the 25k7193. Is there any way to tell from that if the chassis likes 1v or 5v?

Is the VHold being out of whack a common problem that would be solved with the video amp?

One other thing confusing me to hell with monitor talk: chassis is usually referring to the motherboard at the bottom of the monitor but chassis can also mean the metal frame the monitor is held in?

[grantspain]

monitor talk the chassis is the main board,maybe you have a wiring problem before going down the amp route
the 7000 series should be o.k with the standard avga output level of 1v so that rules that out
maybe your adjustments are just low
recheck the wiring to make sure you are using the correct video ground and sync wires

[DaddyLongLegs]

monitor talk the chassis is the main board,maybe you have a wiring problem before going down the amp route
the 7000 series should be o.k with the standard avga output level of 1v so that rules that out
maybe your adjustments are just low
recheck the wiring to make sure you are using the correct video ground and sync wires

My adjustments are definitely fine; I changed every dial a thousand times to get a good picture. Can't get it to where the older monitor looked. Anyway maybe I do have a wiring problem since I took the old monitor out and put this one in. I am not too sure what you mean by checking that I am using the correct video ground and sync wires. How should I check this and what does that mean?

[DaddyLongLegs]

How do I check that I am using the correct video ground and sync wires? And if they aren't right, how do I fix it?