Author Topic: Peale's Donkey Kong Restoration/Conversion (Read 23222 times)

SirPeale · « **on:** June 21, 2008, 06:08:29 pm »

In the bulk buy of classic games I picked up a few months ago was a Donkey Kong.

I was going to do a simple restoration on this until I found out about Donkey Kong II, so I'm going to convert it to D2K.

Today I pulled the power module from the bottom. I have a Sanyo EZ at the house and would need it to properly power it up. While I had it out, I figured I'd clean and paint it.

So far I've got the power supply disassembled. What a pain. Pictures pending.

Actually, you can see some pictures of the machine itself on my site, IIRC.

Level42 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 21, 2008, 07:18:22 pm »

O no, not ANOTHER Donkey Kong !

I have to applaud you for being able to open up the power supply. I've got two here, one working, one not. I gave up trying to even open it.....

SirPeale · « **Reply #2 on:** June 21, 2008, 07:27:23 pm »

I got it open, but I hope I can get it back together again. If it wasn't so damn rusty I wouldn't have bothered. I broke one of the screws in the dismantling process.

And...heh...there are a ton of DK restos right on top here, right?

CheeseSndwch · « **Reply #3 on:** June 21, 2008, 08:20:43 pm »

The D2K artwork/color scheme looks great.

JeepMonkey · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2008, 09:38:10 pm »

Yeah, they might as well rename this forum to the Donkey Kong Restoration forum.

I can't wait to see a cab fully decked out in DK2 gear.

BUCKETHEAD · « **Reply #5 on:** June 22, 2008, 01:40:23 am »

Quote

Yeah, they might as well rename this forum to the Donkey Kong Restoration forum

If you don't have a DONKEY KONG, You don't have SH!T. lol.

Level42 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 22, 2008, 10:36:57 am »

Somebody please ship me a DK cab in need of resto

So far I'm pretty happy with Mario. It's a much more addictive game than I thought. ALL arcade games are SO much better in their original shape/form/cab.....I had the same with Centipede. I hated it on the 2600....I love it on the real thing....

SirPeale · « **Reply #7 on:** June 22, 2008, 11:50:18 am »

I also find it quite interesting that of all my resto threads I have going right now, this is the busiest one, and it's the one with the least amount of content!

BUCKETHEAD · « **Reply #8 on:** June 22, 2008, 03:01:45 pm »

Quote

I also find it quite interesting that of all my resto threads I have going right now, this is the busiest one, and it's the one with the least amount of content!

It's because it's DONKEY KONG!

Everybody loves a DONKEY KONG !!!

SirPeale · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2008, 03:50:05 pm »

Finally got to paint/reassemble the power unit. I didn't do the job I did with my Centipede mini, but I'm happy with it.

ChadTower · « **Reply #10 on:** June 29, 2008, 05:25:47 pm »

Nice job.

SirPeale · « **Reply #11 on:** June 29, 2008, 08:57:58 pm »

Looks like my repair job on the Sanyo EZ worked. When I was attempting to disassemble it the first time it wouldn't come off the frame, and I managed to crack it pretty good.

I've been wanting to test it since then, but didn't have the proper isolation transformer.

Now I need to cap it.

ChadTower · « **Reply #12 on:** June 29, 2008, 09:43:47 pm »

What's the eventual plan for the finished machine?

SirPeale · « **Reply #13 on:** June 30, 2008, 11:29:34 am »

Quote from: Peale on June 21, 2008, 06:08:29 pm

I was going to do a simple restoration on this until I found out about Donkey Kong II, so I'm going to convert it to D2K.

ChadTower · « **Reply #14 on:** June 30, 2008, 02:53:48 pm »

That's the immediate plan. I mean are you going to keep or sell it?

SirPeale · « **Reply #15 on:** June 30, 2008, 02:56:17 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on June 30, 2008, 02:53:48 pm

That's the immediate plan. I mean are you going to keep or sell it?

Gotcha. I'm on the fence right now. I'd need a place to keep it. My Centipede mini is going in my daughter's room (though it'll be a surprise to my wife) and my boys already have two cabs in their room. Though I suppose I could move out the Dynamo Mame cab...but then I'd likely move the Defender in it's place.

*sigh* decisions, decisions!

SirPeale · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2008, 05:38:59 am »

Went to the storage area last night to pay the rent and pull a couple parts. Brought my oldest son with me.

After paying rent, popped the DK cab out to pull the monitor, board and harness. Unfortunately I didn't bring my socket set or wrenches, so my little needle nosed pliers didn't do much to get the nuts off the bottom. As for the board/harness, it's pretty firmly stuck in the cab unless I wanted to do some cutting or a lot of dismantling.

Sucks...this place is only four miles away, but with gas the way it is I have to make sure my trips are planned well. Eight mile round trip = nearly half a gallon of gas in our van. Sometimes I miss my Kia.

I handed the flashlight to my son so I could see to remove the control panel. He was more interested in using it to look anywhere but where I wanted him to point it, so when I was disconnecting the CP I bent one of the pins, and when I bent it back into shape...yeah, you guessed it...it broke off. Crap.

I didn't worry much about it at the moment...I know it's an oddball harness but one way or another I didn't think it was that big a deal...at that moment.

I suddenly noticed a power outlet in the hallway on the ceiling. I wonder if it works...wheel the cab over and plug it in...yes!

Nothing on screen...weird...thought I remember it coming up scrambled. Coin it up...sure, it seems to be playing blind. Brightness is all the way up. Turn up the controls on the neckboard...ah, there's my "picture". Something screwed up with the horizontal sync. No big deal.

Go to start a game...nothing is happening. Weird. Oh, maybe it's because the pin that broke off was the CP ground? Crap!

I take a strand of wire and bridge the connection inside the harness - a temporary measure. Then I turn it on.

I have...picture! It's badly adjusted, but it's a picture. Good. I know this EZ needs a cap job, but at least I know it works "properly".

The joystick is broken. I know, I know...Nintendo joysticks never break. The actuator seems to have worn down completely, it no longer makes contact with the switches. I'll have to figure something out. But I was able to make Jumpman walk and climb up a ladder before getting mashed by a barrel by pressing the switches with my fingertips.

ChadTower · « **Reply #17 on:** July 03, 2008, 08:59:54 am »

Sweet. I'm right with you on the kids not holding the flashlight where you want it. Get a hanging light, I guess. I have a couple cheap LED arrays with strings you can hook around just about anything, run on a couple AAAs and light up a small area like the second coming.

2600 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 03, 2008, 01:58:54 pm »

I picked up one of those LED lights that you strap around your head at Target for like $20. I think it was made by Energizer and has a couple different modes plus it tilts so you can aim it. At first I got it for when I was doing some work laying a floor in the attic, now I use it all the time.

SirPeale · « **Reply #19 on:** July 03, 2008, 02:17:33 pm »

Quote from: 2600 on July 03, 2008, 01:58:54 pm

I picked up one of those LED lights that you strap around your head at Target for like $20. I think it was made by Energizer and has a couple different modes plus it tilts so you can aim it. At first I got it for when I was doing some work laying a floor in the attic, now I use it all the time.

I have one of those. Should have brought it.

Quote from: ChadTower on July 03, 2008, 08:59:54 am

Sweet. I'm right with you on the kids not holding the flashlight where you want it. Get a hanging light, I guess. I have a couple cheap LED arrays with strings you can hook around just about anything, run on a couple AAAs and light up a small area like the second coming.

I wanted him to feel useful. I brought him along to have some father-son time and get him out of the house.

SirPeale · « **Reply #20 on:** July 03, 2008, 02:35:16 pm »

I have now officially paid for my D2K art. I can't wait to see it.

JeepMonkey · « **Reply #21 on:** July 04, 2008, 09:34:44 am »

Where are you getting the art?

Level42 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 04, 2008, 04:04:50 pm »

Quote from: JeepMonkey on July 04, 2008, 09:34:44 am

Where are you getting the art?

At the only place that makes it I guess......

http://thisoldgame.com/donkeykong2.html

SirPeale · « **Reply #23 on:** July 04, 2008, 06:25:55 pm »

ChadTower · « **Reply #24 on:** July 04, 2008, 09:22:18 pm »

Quick! Scan it and put it in the AAL!

(yes, that's a joke)

SirPeale · « **Reply #25 on:** October 15, 2008, 02:29:35 pm »

*FINALLY* got the Sanyo 20-EZ capped. Thank you, Mouser. I did forget two caps, a couple of NP ones. I'll replace them in the future, but for now everything appears to be working great. I'll know better once I get this in the DK cab. Right now I have it hooked to my monitor test fixture, and everything is inverted. I don't have an inverter to get the proper colors, and sadly, DK doesn't have a test feature that I'm aware of.

SirPeale · « **Reply #26 on:** October 30, 2008, 01:41:36 pm »

Got DK out of storage today. Put in a freshly capped EZ. Looked great, just a bit hot on red and slightly out of focus. Red was easy, but the damn flyback shield will have to come off to adjust the focus.

Tried to remove the marquee, but the screws are so far rusted I can't get them to budge even a little. Don't remember if they screw into wood or a T nut. Looks like it won't be lit for Halloween.

SirPeale · « **Reply #27 on:** November 28, 2008, 06:38:20 pm »

Since I'm quickly running out of nice (non-snow) days here, I decided to work on this beastie today.

Basically I pretty much stripped the beastie completely down to nothing. Busted out the sander and sanded the heck out of the bottom of the cab. At some point in it's existence something liquid was in the bottom, and stained it. You can still see it, but it's greatly reduced.

Took a blowtorch to the marquee retainer screws. It was just so rusted I couldn't move it at all. It came out easily after that.

I'm on the fence right now if I'll change the connectors over to a single edge connector or leave it as-is.

I'm still stuck not being able to remove 1/2 the bolts from the control panel. 1/2 came out easily, the other 1/2 are rusted just enough that I can't remove them. Wouldn't be a problem if I could stop the bolt from turning - but I can't. I fear that I'll have to break down and actually pay $10 for eight bolts from Mikes Arcade, unless someone has an idea how I can remove the old ones without cutting a groove with a Dremel.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #28 on:** November 29, 2008, 08:59:08 am »

This may not work... but it's an idea... Try slotting the end of the bolt that protrudes from the nut (if there is anything there to get ahold of). Then use a small slotted screwdriver to hold it stationary while turning the nut. Also apply a bit of penatating oil on the nut side and let it sit for a long whole before attempting to turn it.

I hear ya on the 10 dollar bolt issue

SirPeale · « **Reply #29 on:** November 29, 2008, 10:28:15 am »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on November 29, 2008, 08:59:08 am

This may not work... but it's an idea... Try slotting the end of the bolt that protrudes from the nut (if there is anything there to get ahold of). Then use a small slotted screwdriver to hold it stationary while turning the nut. Also apply a bit of penatating oil on the nut side and let it sit for a long whole before attempting to turn it.

I hear ya on the 10 dollar bolt issue

I thought about that, but even the thinnest Dremel disc will trash the bolt end.

There is a Fastenal here in town. Never been there, but I'm going to give them a shot.

Level42 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 29, 2008, 03:54:26 pm »

Coke loosens bolts.

SirPeale · « **Reply #31 on:** November 29, 2008, 08:10:53 pm »

Most of the mounting hardware was rusted, so I wire wheeled it today, and used Rust-Oleum Rust Converter to paint them with. They don't look original, but I think they look good. And they're now more protected from further rust.

After it dried I reassembled the cab enough so I could pop the monitor back in since I don't have room to leave it lying around. While I was at it I hooked the PCB back up. Guess what? It's not working any more.

You turn on the game and you can hear a fraction of the startup sound, but that's it.

I probably caused it myself when I was putting the connectors back on. For whatever reason the 10P connector isn't like the other connectors on the board, and when I put it on I found that I put it on *backwards*. Odd, because every other connector on the board faces one way, and this one faces the other way. I had to consult the manual to find this out.

SirPeale · « **Reply #32 on:** November 29, 2008, 08:11:41 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on November 29, 2008, 03:54:26 pm

Coke loosens bolts.

That's true, but I don't want to soak the CP in Coke if I can help it.

ChadTower · « **Reply #33 on:** November 30, 2008, 12:39:28 pm »

How are these bolts different from a standard carriage bolt you'll get at any hardware store?

SirPeale · « **Reply #34 on:** November 30, 2008, 01:17:28 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on November 30, 2008, 12:39:28 pm

How are these bolts different from a standard carriage bolt you'll get at any hardware store?

They're metric. And tiny. I could live with changing it to Imperial, but in that size I might as well just go with metric since I'll have to send away for them anyway.

Level42 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 30, 2008, 03:17:17 pm »

Even here, you cannot find them ! M5 (5mm.) is the smallest "regular" carriage bolt size overhere. The Nintendo's are 4mm. (M4). I was lucky that Luigi found a source and ordered a bunch. He was extremely nice and shared some of them with me for a much better price than the 10 bucks.....

SirPeale · « **Reply #36 on:** November 30, 2008, 06:27:01 pm »

I thought they were M3. According to Mikes Arcade they are...

ChadTower · « **Reply #37 on:** December 01, 2008, 09:28:04 am »

Hrm. Harborfreight carries metric assortments, I think.

SirPeale · « **Reply #38 on:** December 01, 2008, 03:33:53 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on December 01, 2008, 09:28:04 am

Hrm. Harborfreight carries metric assortments, I think.

Yeah, but in that size?

Level42 · « **Reply #39 on:** December 05, 2008, 03:06:41 am »

Quote from: Peale on November 30, 2008, 06:27:01 pm

I thought they were M3. According to Mikes Arcade they are...

I think the coin door bolts are M3. Got a link ?

SirPeale · « **Reply #40 on:** December 05, 2008, 03:21:31 am »

Quote from: Level42 on December 05, 2008, 03:06:41 am

Quote from: Peale on November 30, 2008, 06:27:01 pm
I thought they were M3. According to Mikes Arcade they are...
I think the coin door bolts are M3. Got a link ?

I don't think so - the coin door bolts are bigger than the CP bolts.

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPNINBOLTSET

Level42 · « **Reply #41 on:** December 05, 2008, 04:35:46 pm »

Uh, actually, we're both wrong/right.

The CP and the coindoor bolts have the same size. But it _is_ M4:

Thus.....that's an error on Mike's site.

ChadTower · « **Reply #42 on:** December 05, 2008, 04:48:27 pm »

If M4 is too hard to get locally you could just file the square hole a little larger. Shouldn't need too much more to get a standard sized bolt in there.

Level42 · « **Reply #43 on:** December 05, 2008, 05:04:24 pm »

But the head would be bigger too I think ?

ChadTower · « **Reply #44 on:** December 05, 2008, 10:59:33 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on December 05, 2008, 05:04:24 pm

But the head would be bigger too I think ?

How much bigger could it be?

(ask her)

SirPeale · « **Reply #45 on:** December 08, 2008, 12:31:09 pm »

I found them locally, and now I know why the prices are so high @ Mike's Arcade.

They're cheap enough by themselves, but of course there is a stamp on the top of each one. So I'm guessing that Mike must remove that and polish them all. Labor = higher price.

Level42 · « **Reply #46 on:** December 08, 2008, 12:57:42 pm »

The one's I got from Luigi were polished on top right away. Did you find metric carriage bolts with the size stamped ?

I've never seen sizes stamped on top of the bolts like apparently is common in the US. It's pretty weird IMHO: you use carriage bolts to have a nice "finished" look on the top side. Else you could use a regular bolt. Then they stamp yukkie letters on the head

There's a great thread on KLOV (or was it here) about how to remove them.

SirPeale · « **Reply #47 on:** December 08, 2008, 02:32:52 pm »

It's the law in the US. I'll just remove it.

SirPeale · « **Reply #48 on:** December 09, 2008, 05:14:29 pm »

I received the first part of my art shipment today! Never got a tracking number, it just appeared out of the blue.

cornishHen · « **Reply #49 on:** December 16, 2008, 09:36:15 pm »

i hate to drag on the topic of bolt sizes, but the bolts I received from mike's look like 3mm???

SirPeale · « **Reply #50 on:** December 17, 2008, 07:18:19 am »

What about the coin door?

cornishHen · « **Reply #51 on:** December 17, 2008, 10:40:55 am »

I used some slot head bolts on my coin door as I didn't want to buy two sets of $10 bolts.. I still have 2 bolts left from the set I received from Mike's.. I'll try them on my coin door when I get home tonight and report back with pics..

SirPeale · « **Reply #52 on:** December 17, 2008, 02:54:00 pm »

Luckily my coin door bolts are okay, they just need polishing/sealing. The CP ones didn't fare so well. I can't budge the nuts. They'll have to be replaced.

I found them locally, but I have to order them in lots of 100. I'll probably polish/seal them and sell them off.

SirPeale · « **Reply #53 on:** March 21, 2009, 02:49:11 pm »

I thought I'd posted about a problem I had with this, but I guess I didn't.

Last fall I completely disassembled quite a bit of the cab - at least all the parts came out. When I reassembled it it no longer worked.

You'd power it up, but all you would get it 1/10 of a second of the startup sound, and nothing more.

Fast forward to today, thought I'd give everything a look over.

100% user error. I plugged the video board power cable into the wrong connector. I was trying to beat the darkness that day and it got the best of me.

Luckily it seems there is no damage. Still have only 1/10 of a second of startup sound, but the game plays 100%. *shrug*

SirPeale · « **Reply #54 on:** March 22, 2009, 04:01:49 pm »

Ugh...I can't believe I just did what I did...

I have a coin door I salvaged from the dumpster @ my old job. It was in FAR better condition than the door on the DK. So I thought "why don't I just swap the guts and wiring..."

So I did. I got everything in place, and then I went to close the door. It was a bit stiff, so I gave it some additional strength...

...and then I saw why it was so stiff. Stupid coin mechs...I'd put them in their place with the door completely open, which meant that the door frame was between the door and the mech. So when I assembled it without looking (it was face down) it caught it in place. I ended up bending the hell out of the frame.

So it looks like I'll be refinishing the original coin door anyway. Just what I needed, something else to do.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #55 on:** March 22, 2009, 04:12:02 pm »

I find myself making mistakes like that any time I feel myself in a rush.

One of those "just when I thought I was getting ahead" sinking type feelings.

SirPeale · « **Reply #56 on:** May 12, 2009, 02:25:44 pm »

I managed to destroy 3/8 of the bolts on the CP. Luckily a KLOV member is sending me some used ones for free to replace them.

I stripped down the marquee retainers with electrolysis. I wish I'd learned about this process years ago! They just need a bit of touching up and painting.

SirPeale · « **Reply #57 on:** May 15, 2009, 04:42:08 pm »

I've been cleaning the heck out of the CP today. I removed rust from the parts with electrolysis, wiped them down, primed and painted an aluminum color. 100% better than what I started with (pitted iron colored crap).

Also painted the wooden CP itself. Over the years the original faded to a sort of brown color. I sprayed it with semi-gloss black.

SirPeale · « **Reply #58 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:13:09 pm »

The disassembled control panel has been sitting on the chest freezer in the kitchen for a month now. So I assembled it.

I still need new bolts to hold the CPO on, but the four I have on there right now will do to keep things together.

One thing I noted was that the holes in the CPO are very close to the original spacing, but just enough off that they're a bit cocked. I'll have to make some minute adjustments and hopefully not kill it in the process. The heads of the bolts are only so big.

I saw another project recently that had the buttons for a D2K replaced with other colors: white for the player buttons and yellow for jump. I do believe I'm going to go that route.

SirPeale · « **Reply #59 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:30:52 pm »

I waited for what seemed like forever for the CP bolts to arrive from that KLOV'r. Since they were coming from .ca I knew it could be a while.

The envelope showed up last week. JUST the envelope.

It had been torn open. Looks like on purpose.

ChadTower · « **Reply #60 on:** June 11, 2009, 09:17:05 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on June 10, 2009, 10:30:52 pm

I waited for what seemed like forever for the CP bolts to arrive from that KLOV'r. Since they were coming from .ca I knew it could be a while.

The envelope showed up last week. JUST the envelope. It had been torn open. Looks like on purpose.

Customs. They probably resealed it in some halfass way that didn't work.

SirPeale · « **Reply #61 on:** June 11, 2009, 09:43:11 am »

Aren't they supposed to mark it in such a way?

And no, it was just an envelope (padded) no tape or anything on it.

ChadTower · « **Reply #62 on:** June 11, 2009, 09:50:08 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on June 11, 2009, 09:43:11 am

Aren't they supposed to mark it in such a way?

They don't always. Just a guess, though, could have been anyone in the line. I know the USPS rips open stuff sent media mail but I think that is domestic only.

SirPeale · « **Reply #63 on:** June 11, 2009, 10:02:21 am »

Weird. This was sent via regular 1st class mail.

Irks me a lot.

ChadTower · « **Reply #64 on:** June 11, 2009, 10:06:49 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on June 11, 2009, 10:02:21 am

Weird. This was sent via regular 1st class mail.

Irks me a lot.

Has anyone messed with your mail in the past? Maybe a neighbor who sees you get a lot of packages decided to see if this one had anything of value in it.

javeryh · « **Reply #65 on:** June 12, 2009, 11:45:23 am »

Peale - Where did you get the instruction card for the CP? The one I ordered from Mike's is off (the bottom font is white and not red). I can't find an exact match anywhere. I even emailed Rich at ThisOldGame but I haven't heard back.

Thanks.

SirPeale · « **Reply #66 on:** June 12, 2009, 04:18:00 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on June 11, 2009, 10:06:49 am

Quote from: SirPeale on June 11, 2009, 10:02:21 am
Weird. This was sent via regular 1st class mail.

Irks me a lot.

Has anyone messed with your mail in the past? Maybe a neighbor who sees you get a lot of packages decided to see if this one had anything of value in it.

Nope, I've never had a problem.

I'm guessing a sorter malfunction. They usually tag them, though.

Quote from: javeryh on June 12, 2009, 11:45:23 am

Peale - Where did you get the instruction card for the CP? The one I ordered from Mike's is off (the bottom font is white and not red). I can't find an exact match anywhere. I even emailed Rich at ThisOldGame but I haven't heard back.

It's part of the D2K artwork package.

ChadTower · « **Reply #67 on:** June 12, 2009, 04:50:53 pm »

Maybe the contents got sick of being in the envelope and bolted.

SirPeale · « **Reply #68 on:** June 26, 2009, 09:33:48 am »

I need some info - someone recently posted a D2K project where they replaced the P1/P2 buttons with white, and the jump button with a mustard/gold kind of button. Can anyone direct me to said project? I wish I'd bookmarked it. I did a search, but came up empty.

I found someone on KLOV that has NOS short buttons for cheap, but he said they're not the ones that go on a DK. Is that because of length, or the overall size, or what?

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #69 on:** June 26, 2009, 10:07:15 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on June 26, 2009, 09:33:48 am

I need some info - someone recently posted a D2K project where they replaced the P1/P2 buttons with white, and the jump button with a mustard/gold kind of button. Can anyone direct me to said project? I wish I'd bookmarked it. I did a search, but came up empty.

I found someone on KLOV that has NOS short buttons for cheap, but he said they're not the ones that go on a DK. Is that because of length, or the overall size, or what?

Is this it ?:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=49440&page=14

The size is different... You may be able to use a long white button but you would have to bore out your CP to 1 1/8" as the nintendo button size is a bit smaller...

SirPeale · « **Reply #70 on:** June 26, 2009, 10:18:51 am »

That's the one! Thanks.

SirPeale · « **Reply #71 on:** June 26, 2009, 12:21:59 pm »

I was informed that he used a /short/ leaf button. I think I'll need to clarify that since you said to use a /long/ one.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #72 on:** June 26, 2009, 12:31:28 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on June 26, 2009, 12:21:59 pm

I was informed that he used a /short/ leaf button. I think I'll need to clarify that since you said to use a /long/ one.

My bad... you are correct... the Nintendo button holder does not take up too much space so it will work perfectly with a short button...

SirPeale · « **Reply #73 on:** June 26, 2009, 12:32:20 pm »

Awesome. I found a guy on KLOV that has the buttons for a buck each. Score!

Level42 · « **Reply #74 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:35:42 pm »

Meh....get rid of those clickety microswitches and go leaf. It's ideal to do it on the Nintendo CP:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62884.msg858916#msg858916

SirPeale · « **Reply #75 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:55:05 pm »

No thank you. I've got mine looking all purty-like.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #76 on:** June 26, 2009, 02:13:49 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on June 26, 2009, 01:35:42 pm

Meh....get rid of those clickety microswitches and go leaf. It's ideal to do it on the Nintendo CP:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62884.msg858916#msg858916

You know... I normally am not a fan of micros... and as most games were leafs... but there is something about the Nintendo feel... the stick and buttons are really "plinky"... they have a nice sort of kick to them that no other micro really has... For my DK2 I actually was able to get some NOS switches and I replaced all of them and I really like it.

ChadTower · « **Reply #77 on:** June 28, 2009, 08:55:52 am »

Quote from: SirPeale on June 26, 2009, 12:32:20 pm

Awesome. I found a guy on KLOV that has the buttons for a buck each. Score!

I bought some - they're nice and clean. Go with him.

SirPeale · « **Reply #78 on:** August 01, 2009, 06:12:09 pm »

I was working on the door to my Galaxian today when I ran across the Donkey Kong door lying in a corner. Figured I might as well work on that as well. Stripped the remainder of the old paint with a 3" wire wheel. Still need to work on the corners and a few stubborn pieces of paint, but it's all but stripped now.


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