Bartop build - complete

[vizzinni]

This is my first real build, after doing a simple desktop controller a couple of years
ago.  It's not exactly a masterpiece, but it came out OK.

Dimensions are 19.5" wide, 24" deep, and 29" high. Spray painted.  Inside there's a 15" Gateway monitor and a PIII/256MB/15GB computer, decased.  I used an old CPU fan as an exhaust fan, and wired a spare Happ competition button for computer power.  The monitor power button is on all the time.  I stowed a keyboard and mouse inside with velcro.

[vizzinni]

I gave up trying to insert pics in the middle of the post... 

Controls include an 8-way Happ w/ leafs and a 2 1/4" Wico trackball. Admin buttons are
Exit (esc) and Pause (P), plus shifted Tab, Enter, L Shift and F7. The left mouse button
(from the minipac) is wired into the credit button on the front of the cab.  At first I
had it shared w/ button 1 but mame/mamewah were locking up so I switched it to the 2P
start, but that didn't work in mamewah because that button brings up the menu and it
didn't like getting a mouse click at the same time.  No problems yet where it is now.  If that doesn't work I'll just give up use the real mouse in the back.

Software is Windows 98SE, MAME .61 and MameWah, with a Mr. Salty layout. 

I used a Mini-PAC (remember the deal Andy had for BYOACers a while back?), plugged into
USB so I could have a trackball.  Note:  I never figured out how to program the mini-PAC
thru the USB port; kept getting errors, and not the usual "time out" error.  I ended up
doing it with the PS2 connection without a problem.

[vizzinni]

Marquee came from EMDKAY, and the marquee light is the NovaMatrix from GGG.  Also got
the speakers, T-molding, and some ButtonBlaster LEDs from GGG.  I'd planned on using the
LEDs for the start buttons, but I really just ran out of time.

I started out with every intention to have clean wiring on the CP, but in the end it was
just too much.  It pretty much looks like a rats nest, but the splices are all soldered
and heat-shrink wrapped, and I can unplug everything to remove the panel when needed.

I did the bezel and CPO artwork using the trial version of Corel Draw and lots of visits
to the Arcade Art Library.  Printed at Staples (I don't have many options where I live)
for $25. 

[vizzinni]

There's a few things I wish I'd done differently.  The "overhang" above the monitor
(where the marquee is, and where the speakers are mounted) should really jut out closer
to the front edge.  I kept it where it is because I thought that a tall person standing
at it might have his view of the monitor blocked a bit. 

Also, I don't really like how the monitor bezel and CPO art meet.  The art for each were
done separately and never put together until the first time I put the CP on the cab.  I
think it needs something, even just a black 1" space between them.  And I'd try harder
to match the cab colors with the artwork.

And I'm not entirely pleased with how the bezel art transitions to the monitor.  I
basically cut the art work with about a 1/8" overhang over the hardboard backer. 
Painted the monitor front black, and placed some black foam rubber in the space between,
set back about 1/2", to block any light leaks from inside the cab. 

[HaRuMaN]

Looks good...  going to put on any sideart?

[vizzinni]

It needs it bad, doesn't it?  I was looking at the stuff at Mame Marquee's but I didn't want to spend the $50.  I may need to reconsider...

[HaRuMaN]

It needs it bad, doesn't it?  I was looking at the stuff at Mame Marquee's but I didn't want to spend the $50.  I may need to reconsider...

Side art would definitely help!

[patrickl]

I gave up trying to insert pics in the middle of the post... 

Why?

Just take the url from the picture you posted in the picture thread and insert it in an img tag:


The cab looks great. Maybe you could indeed add some sideart, but even without it works.

BTW Don't you have any problems with the joystick so close to the edge?

[vizzinni]

The joystick might be a little close to the edge but it doesn't affect game play.  I had to cheat that way to be sure to have enough room to use the trackball on the other side (which there is, barely).  This pic shows my hand w/ the joystick all the way to the left:



Hmmm, I guess that does work.  I don't know what happened the first time I tried.  Thanks 

[IG-88]

I did the bezel and CPO artwork using the trial version of Corel Draw and lots of visits
to the Arcade Art Library.  Printed at Staples (I don't have many options where I live)
for $25. 

I think it turned out great.    Looks good without the sideart.

What kind of material did you use for the prints? Vinyl? Was it something they had in stock? (the print material) Did you just take them a disk of the Corel files and have them print and cut it?

[Donkey_Kong]

I think it's great. I like the marquee and I see that 25c up there. I thought that it would be cool to maybe someday if you got really ambitious  you could replace that red button in the front with this...

[vizzinni]

What kind of material did you use for the prints? Vinyl? Was it something they had in stock? (the print material) Did you just take them a disk of the Corel files and have them print and cut it?

Thanks IG-88.  I asked for photo glossy paper, but when I picked up the art work they said they were out and so they'd laminated it over matte paper for free instead ( I think those were the only two choices...they definitely didn't have vinyl).  I was p.o.'d but I was in a hurry so I took it.  But, I might do it that way again next time anyway; the laminate protected the print during construction, and under the plexi I'm not sure I could tell much of a difference.  The printer was just an HP DesignJet.

I saved the files as .pdf, burned them to a CD, and took that to staples.  According to their online service they can use Corel files, but the locals weren't so sure.  The transition to pdf did change some of the color slightly.  Staples cut the paper to the image size, but I think I lost 1/8" or so somewhere, either in their cutting or in the transition to pdf. 

[vizzinni]

I think it's great. I like the marquee and I see that 25c up there. I thought that it would be cool to maybe someday if you got really ambitious  you could replace that red button in the front with this...

Damn!  I don't know how I missed those buttons at GGG.  I'd actually toyed w/ the idea of taking the button and bezel off of an old coin door but figured it'd be too hard to do it right.

Does anyone know if the CDR button fits in a standard 1 1/8" hole?  I can't tell from the GGG web site.  It looks like it might be smaller.

[Zeosstud]

Looks like a very good bar top to me.  Hope it gets lots of use!! 

Zeosstud

[Kaytrim]

I think it's great. I like the marquee and I see that 25c up there. I thought that it would be cool to maybe someday if you got really ambitious  you could replace that red button in the front with this...

Damn!  I don't know how I missed those buttons at GGG.  I'd actually toyed w/ the idea of taking the button and bezel off of an old coin door but figured it'd be too hard to do it right.

Does anyone know if the CDR button fits in a standard 1 1/8" hole?  I can't tell from the GGG web site.  It looks like it might be smaller.

Yep Standard size hole is what you need to drill for the main body.  There are also two small pins above and below the main body.  Randy includes a drilling template and instructions.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[leapinlew]

[vizzinni]

Thanks Lew, that's what I needed to know.  Now I should change the subject to "mostly complete."

[IG-88]

What exact version/type of trial Corel  software did you use?

[vizzinni]

What exact version/type of trial Corel  software did you use?

Corel Draw X4, it's a 15 day free trial.  It does vectors.  www.corel.com

[vizzinni]

Ordered the Coin Drop Replacement button from GGG, should be here any day now.  Also, thought I'd add pics of how I did the volume control since that's being discussed now over in the main forum. 

I decased the $8 speakers from GGG, desoldered the volume pot from the board and extended it by 6" or so.   I used a small sheet of steel (leftover from the Cheap Spinner build I use on my desktop controller) and a small rubber gasket (found in one of those drawers at Lowe's) to mount the pot.  Painted the knob black and mounted it from the under side.







Of course, this cab is not for audiophiles; it's meant for the early 80's games where pristine sound wasn't the goal. 

The speakers do block some of the light from the NovaMatrix, but it's bearable.

<Edited to get pic size right... >