painting laminate

[G1zm0]

i painted my laminated original cab black , it looked ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- with run marks (if it were in a race it would win), so i sanded it down and decided to take the laminate finish off so the paint could stick ( it scrapped of laminate no prob).

so i am about to start again with one coat gloss this time not matt. but i am unsure of best way so it dont look ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---,
is it best to gloss roller it on or dump the paint and spray this puppy.

what kind gives best result with no marks?

[ablizno]

Um i just tried to use a roller with glossy paint and if u roll over the paint u just put on (even to fix a mistake) it takes the gloss right off. I also tried to spray it and it gave an even worst look. So i seriously do not know what to say. If you are good at spraying That would be my suggestion, because rolling gloss was hard as hell (for me)

[fjl]

If its laminate can't it be peeled off?

[sstorkel]

Have you put down any primer? That's usually the first step to achieving a good paint job. Unfortunately, gloss paint is incredibly difficult to make look nice. At least for me. I'd suggest buying a high-quality ($15-30) brush and maybe some Floetrol. Plan to put on several coats and to a lot of sanding. To achieve a high-gloss finish, you may need to wet sand.

If you know someone who has access to professional quality spray equipment, by all means have them spray the cabinet for you!

[G1zm0]

its not laminate as in vinyl, its brown yukky worktop kind of laminate with scratches and gorges on it, thats why i am painting.

im not to botherd about a top sheen finish , i just want it to look even and no marks,

i was going to spray but thought it would be hard, getting even strokes and the price of spray paint ( prob 6-7 tins for full cab excluding primer)

i will give it a try rolling it then when dry i will get some gfx and use clear vinyl to stick them on, hopefullt it wont look like a dogs breakfast

[sstorkel]

its not laminate as in vinyl, its brown yukky worktop kind of laminate with scratches and gorges on it, thats why i am painting.

I'm not sure what sort of vinyl you're talking about, but the stuff that I usually think of when I hear the word 'vinyl' isn't generally a suitable surface for painting... If the surface has scratches and gouges, they must be filled before you paint!

i will give it a try rolling it then when dry i will get some gfx and use clear vinyl to stick them on, hopefullt it wont look like a dogs breakfast

If you bought high-gloss paint and you use a roller, expect the results to look like crap...

[G1zm0]

ahh ok, its just the sides are the wood grain effect on it (thicker than vinyl) attached to mdf. i sanded it down so it isnt smooth,
i will take your advice about the high gloss finnish and either change the tin for a matt version, or i will brush it on
only thing with brushing is you see brush marks on it, or i could roll on 1st coat them  hand paint it.

the undercoat is in the paint as its a 2 in 1  (crown solo- jet black).
was thinking of spraying it but dont know if it would turn out good or look like s**t

[G1zm0]

did a test spray(back door), it turned out ok apart from seeing the sander scratches under it.
if i spray with under coat will that cover the scratches so i can do top coat?

or should i get black semi gloss and roll it on with undercoat?

or should i paint on a good undercoat (to fill scratches)then spray it for good finish?

didnt know painting would be this tricky, whats good uk undercoat to use

[sstorkel]

What grit sand paper did you use when sanding? What sort of sander did you use?

Sounds to me like you need to sand with a higher grit sandpaper, apply an undercoat, sand the undercoat, then spray on the paint.

[G1zm0]

i used 40 and 60 grit, i used a detail sander and a rectangular sander

[Jdurg]

i used 40 and 60 grit, i used a detail sander and a rectangular sander

No matter what you do, you will always see the scratches left by that grit.  You need to move up to a 120 grit paper to remove those sanding marks, then perhaps up to a 300 grit in order to completely smooth out the surface.  You certainly don't want to be using 40 and 60 grit paper to sand the paint once it's on.  That low of a grit will just remove the paint in a heartbeat as well as the wood.

ALWAYS go from low to high when sanding.  So once the main "roughness" has been removed by the 40 and 60 grit, move up higher and higher in grit until when you get the done the surface is incredibly smooth.  If your eyes can see gouge marks, it's too rough of a grit.  If your fingers can feel sanding marks, move up a grit and sand again.

Sanding and prepping for a paint job takes a lot of time, but the results are oh so worth it.

[sstorkel]

i used 40 and 60 grit, i used a detail sander and a rectangular sander

Yikes! Talk about the wrong way to do things... You need to sand more. A lot more, preferably with a random-orbit sander. Use 80, 120, 150, 180, 240, and 320. If you're going to use gloss or semi-gloss paint, add 400 and 600 grit, too.

After that, you'll need to spray or roll on some primer. Then sand, preferably by hand, with 400 or 600 grit paper. If you're done a really sloppy job with the primer, you may have to start with 320 grit. If you sand through the primer, you'll have to put on another coat so be careful.

Once that's done, then you can apply some paint!

[G1zm0]

yeah going to start tmoz with the sanding, let u know how i go

[G1zm0]

i sanded the bad bits of the cabinet and instead of sanding forever i found a tin of filler primer,
so ive sprayed the cabinet (one side and top back panel) with that and it seems to hide the blemishes.

So after the primer on the back i went a head and used satin black to spray the  top back,although i ran out of paint
it is looking good, so i will might put gloss spray paint over it and continue it.