Routing and Mortising Bit

[GAJoe]

I bought my first router last night.  Now, after reading some threads about routing here, I'm kind of overwhelmed and considering returning it.  I have three basic needs for it.  I want to route out flush mounting holes for joystick bases, I want to route a deep hole to mount my X-Gaming trackball, and I want to cut out a square hole in the middle of a board to mount my monitor into.  The router came with no bits, so I bought a straight/mortising bit because its example picture seemed to match the above tasks.  Do I need to go back and get a dado clean out bit or can I do the above things with the mortising bit?  Do I need other bits?

Would I be better off just returning the router and getting a chisel?

[mccoy178]

A much less intimidating, but equally useful tool in this application would be a 1hp trim router.  I bought one last summer and I love it for a couple reasons.  1, it is not so strong that it will rip the tool out of your hand or take off on the wood like a regular router can, yet it is plenty powerful to complete the job.  2, It has been the perfect compliment to my regular router and really has made my life easier. 

Here is a link to the one I purchased at Lowes.  It uses all 1/4" shank bits, and I would recommend a flush trim bit, an upward and a downward spiral cutting bits.
Bosch Router

[TOK]

I did my first control panel without one, but it was a conversion cab. I actually used a router attachment for my rotary (Dremel) tool to cut down the areas for the sticks. Not exactly time efficient, but it worked. Since I've moved on to more complex cabinets and panels, I consider the router pretty indispensable. If you intend to scratch build anything with t-molding on it, there really isn't any other tool that you can substitute.

I don't find the need for a lot of bits, because arcade cabinetry is very basic when you consider some of the routers more complex uses. I would suggest having a 1/16" slot cutter for t-molding, a flush trim/pattern bit (one with a top, one with a bottom bearing) if you plan to "trace" any cabinet sides or control panels onto new material, and a couple straight bits to cut your control inlays.
I also have a set of roundovers for copying Williams style control panel fronts, but thats about it.