My Stargate is not working 100%, HELP

[jp2125]

First, I wanted to say that I am brand new to the arcade world but do have a very basic understanding of a multi meter if it comes to that level of troubleshooting.

I recently purchased a Stargate upright unit and all functions (Other then needing to replace the buttons and joystick) seem to work fine but I am unable to get into the Game Adjustments screen.  I can use the Advance button to access the Bookkeeping  totals but when I hit the Advance button again to access the first page of the Game Adjustments screen,  I can only see the “Extra ship every” line and the rest of the screen is either blank or just shows little vertical colored lines.  The only way I have been able to get around this is to hard power off the unit and then restart.  This is not an Advance button issue as I ran the diagnostic procedures and thus needed to use the Advance button a number of times (BTW, all diagnostic completed without issue). The unit works otherwise but is set to free play and not sure if this gives unlimited lives but I have a large ship and smart bomb plus others that never seem to run out. The unit also seems to be set at an advanced level of play at this point but I can’t tell as I am unable to access the required area.  The factory power supply was replaced with a switching unit by the person I purchased the machine from but the factory unit is still in the cabinet as well.

(Not from this site but this is the same switching power supply) http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80006400.htm.

 The seller seems to think that something came loose in shipment but I saw this issue before loading the unit but did not think to ask about it at the time.  The seller also got passed this via a hard power off but now tells me that he was the one that set the free play option and only did so after replacing the power supply. Also that he has never seen this issue before. 

I went out to http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliamshardwareid.html#stargate and then took a look at my boards and it would seem that I have a 5770-09656-00 Rev C CPU board as per the markings by the battery holder. 

My ROM board has a sticker stating “This board uses type –A ROMS only and all 12 ROMS are labeled with an A version. 

I am bit confused on the memory chips.  I have seen some posts on the 4116 to 4164 conversion with a plug in type power converter so there is no need to cut traces or add jumpers.  I took a look at my memory chips and all are made by NEC USA.  Most are labeled D2300F-210 with D416C-2 but I did find two that are labeled D2359F-210 with D416C-2.  Is this an issue and are these 4116 or 4164 chips?  I am assuming 4116 but am not sure at this point. 

I can provided pictures as required but am really hoping that someone can assist me here.

Thank you

Josh

[SirPeale]

Pictures are definitely a plus on those screens you describe.  Having it work perfectly except on that one screen is weird.  I'd like to see that screen.

[jp2125]

Here is what I see when I hit the Advance button on the inside of the coin door the first time.  Recall, the first depress of the Advance button seems to work fine.  I will make a second post in a few minutes regarding the screen seen after the second depress. Reason for the second post, file upload size restriction.

[jp2125]

Here is the PIC showing the problem I am having.

[SirPeale]

Wow, that's a weird one. 

How are the batteries?  The holders and surrounding areas?  Corroded?

Might be one of the ROMs is bad somehow.

[RetroACTIVE]

Thats a good one!.... could be static ram... 74LS289

[jp2125]

Problem solved.  I opened the back of the unit and took the +12, +5 and -5 readings and when I came around the front, I saw the below message on the screen.  I followed the directions and all is working fine now.  I am able to get into the game adjustment screens. 

[jp2125]

 Any idea about the memory question I posted earlier in this thread? 

“I am bit confused on the memory chips.  I have seen some posts on the 4116 to 4164 conversion with a plug in type power converter so there is no need to cut traces or add jumpers.  I took a look at my memory chips and all are made by NEC USA.  Most are labeled D2300F-210 with D416C-2 but I did find two that are labeled D2359F-210 with D416C-2.  Is this an issue and are these 4116 or 4164 chips?  I am assuming 4116 but am not sure at this point. I am bit confused on the memory chips.  I have seen some posts on the 4116 to 4164 conversion with a plug in type power converter so there is no need to cut traces or add jumpers.  I took a look at my memory chips and all are made by NEC USA.  Most are labeled D2300F-210 with D416C-2 but I did find two that are labeled D2359F-210 with D416C-2.  Is this an issue and are these 4116 or 4164 chips?  I am assuming 4116 but am not sure at this point.”

I also included a PIC and but a faint red circle around the two D2359F-210 chips.

[RetroACTIVE]

Problem solved.  I opened the back of the unit and took the +12, +5 and -5 readings and when I came around the front, I saw the below message on the screen.  I followed the directions and all is working fine now.  I am able to get into the game adjustment screens. 

What exactly did you do?

... You have 4116 RAMS installed.

 

[RetroACTIVE]

...also (as Peale pointed out) whenever you have weirdness in your bookkeeping and setups... its usually a faulty battery / battery connector or 5114 CMOS RAM... That 3x AA battery connector many times can look good but its not... you have to check the voltage coming off of it to make sure its consistently 4.5 ish volts with fresh batts..

Screen weirdness can also be due to faulty ribbon cable... those headers William's used are not gold plated and oxidize very well... so they are prone to failure...  Whenever I fix a williams board I always replace them!  Those custom blitter chips on the ROM board also can be culprits... but (believe it or not) not nearly as much as the ribbon cable...

 

[jp2125]

Sorry for the delay but I wanted to get back in the loop here.  As to what I did to resolve the issue, not much.  Tested the +12, +5 and -5 off the main board and then tested the battery one at a time but not as a total voltage.  Each tested at 1.5 volt but I did notice during this testing that the ROM board only had 2 screws holding the board to the 4 mounts.  Of the 2 that were there, they were loose.  I took the screws out and checked the back of the board but did not remove any of the other ribbon or power like cables.  At this point I turned the unit on and was presented with the reset screen that I previously posted.  After following the instructions, all has been working fine. 

[jp2125]

Back to the 4116 to 4164 memory conversion with a plug in type power converter so there is no need to cut traces or add jumpers.  RetroActive, what advantages would I see if I moved to the 4164 chip set?  Also, does the power converter/adapter go between the connection for the switching power supply and the main connection that was taken off the original power hardware?  The attached PIC will show you the connection as of today while using the 4116 chips.  What does the power converter/adapter really do? 

Would anyone know how many AMPS and WATTS the Stargate unit consumes?  Does using the switching power supply reduce power usage or just provide a better source?  What about moving to the 4164 memory chips with the power converter/adapter?

 

[jp2125]

Btw, any recommended sources for new Stargate control buttons and joystick?

What about upgrading to a new monitor?  Any suggestions?  Don't really need to do this now but was thinking more of a possible color, clarity difference and maybe power usage savings. 

[SirPeale]

...what advantages would I see if I moved to the 4164 chip set? 

It runs far cooler than 4116, so likely you'll never see one of them fail like you do with 4116.  Also takes only one voltage, rather than the three with 4116.

As soon as I get my Defender to my house, that's what I'm doing with mine.

[RetroACTIVE]

Back to the 4116 to 4164 memory conversion with a plug in type power converter so there is no need to cut traces or add jumpers.  RetroActive, what advantages would I see if I moved to the 4164 chip set?  Also, does the power converter/adapter go between the connection for the switching power supply and the main connection that was taken off the original power hardware?  The attached PIC will show you the connection as of today while using the 4116 chips.  What does the power converter/adapter really do? 

Would anyone know how many AMPS and WATTS the Stargate unit consumes?  Does using the switching power supply reduce power usage or just provide a better source?  What about moving to the 4164 memory chips with the power converter/adapter?

 

Like Peale said... as far as the 4164's... they run a heck of a lot cooler.... cooler = less power and longer life.
The power adapter for the 4164 RAMS sits between the CPU power header and the CPU power connector... the pic you have is the main 15 pin that normally connects to the power PCB... which brings me to the point that it appears you are running a switcher?  Switchers are not necessarily better than the old linear ones... its just that they are common place now a days... Your board is going to consume what it needs to... regardless of the type of supply you are using.

The power adapter does nothing more than take the -5 and +12 volt lines out of the equation... since the 4164's don't use those voltages.

Upgrading your monitor... unless yours is poopie... just isn't worth it... heck I don't bother changing them unless the burn in is rediculously bad or the tube has faded beyond repair... and as far as power savings... a new CRT is not going to be too much different from an old one.

[jp2125]

Thank you for the help and information here.  I will look to order the 4164 memory and new console parts in the near future.  For now, just happy that I can play Stargate when ever I want to. 

  

[quanlee]

I replaced my Stargate monitor, because it was burned in pretty bad with Ms Pacman. Now the game looks as good as it did back in the day, very nice. I bought my monitor from Betson Imperial, cost me about $150 shipped, not bad. I think it was worth it.