MDO Plywood

[brock.sampson]

I was at Menard's last night picking up a few things and saw some MDO plywood.  Wondering if that would be good for a bartop cabinet?  Has anybody used that on a cabinet?  Seemed to be lighter than MDF and I think plywood generally holds screws better than MDF.  My only concern is the edges and the paint looking noticeably different.  I don't think it would be as bad as painting the edge of MDF but I'm not sure.  I was thinking about doing a double round over instead of t-molding so the edges will be showing.

Thanks,
Brad

[sstorkel]

I haven't used MDO for a cabinet, but it would be my first choice of material if I was planning to paint. I like the fact that it is lighter than MDF, more rigid, and more water-resistant. In my case, I'd probably use T-molding for the edges, so they wouldn't be a problem. If you want to paint the edges, I'd probably seal them with glue size or primer before applying the paint. FYI, some companies sell pre-primed MDO, which makes painting even easier!

I'd so some tests with MDO and a router before you commit to routing the edges. The MDO that I've seen doesn't have as many plies as, say, Baltic Birch so it may not route very cleanly. My guess is that you'll need to use a very sharp router bit to get good results.

[nostrebor]

MDO is a fantastic product, giving you the advantages of MDF (smooth, paint-ready faces) without the disadvantages (DUST!! Weight. Water absorption). MDO is also specifically made with weather resistant glues and resins, because it was developed for the sign industry.

I would not expect to expose the edges with any easy success. Most MDO products are not guaranteed to be void-free, so you will probably get voids in the plys when you cut it. If you are dead set on rounded edges, it will take more work to prep for paint.

I would spring for T-molding. It makes the job effortless compared to prepping MDO or MDF edges. Plus, it will take far more punishment than a painted wood edge.

[brock.sampson]

I was trying to do this on the cheap.  I would have to buy a double round over bit so the price is probably cheaper getting the t-molding.  If I do the t-molding then I don't get to buy any new tools.     Thanks for the advice guys.

[nostrebor]

You ALWAYS take one for the team if buying a new tool is included! Perhaps buy the bit, discover that it won't work on a scrap piece, and *then* buy the T-molding.

Step 5: PROFIT!

[Zobeid]

How does MDO take glue, I wonder?

I was poking around the local lumber yard today. . .  They have 3/4 MDF which looked bee-yoo-tiful, but man it's heavy.  They also have several grades of 3/4 plywood.  I could probably pester them and have them get me some MDO. . .

Then again, how hard is to paint plywood?  Assuming I get a power sander, I mean.

[brock.sampson]

You ALWAYS take one for the team if buying a new tool is included! Perhaps buy the bit, discover that it won't work on a scrap piece, and *then* buy the T-molding.

Step 5: PROFIT!

I'm sill on Step 1 collect underpants.     I'll see if I can find a double roundover bit in town.  If not I'll probably just go with t-molding.

[IA1NY]

How does MDO take glue, I wonder?
...
Then again, how hard is to paint plywood?  Assuming I get a power sander, I mean.

MDO works and takes glue just like plywood. 

The advantage is that there is absolutely no grain that will show through throughout the lifetime of the panel.  Naturally faced plywoods will show their grain eventually even with a baby-butt smooth sanding.  The fibers shrink and swell with humidity and will eventually show through your paint.  The effect is minimized when using a smooth-grained veneer such as maple or birch, but it still isn't as smooth as MDO.  If you can't get MDO, use the birch or maple veneer ply or MDF, but MDO is the smoother choice.

You should get the power sander too...  Just to have...  Just in case...   

[nostrebor]

You should get the power sander too...  Just to have...  Just in case...   

Sage advice right there. Thanks for looking out for a brother!

[nuka1195]

Amazon link

I don't think you want a double round over or bullnose bit, unless you are running this through a router table and fence, which curves would make this impossible.

[brock.sampson]

I was looking at a bit like this one that is adjustable for the depth of the piece you are working on.

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/49750.html

[nuka1195]

i've never seen one like that, curious how well it works.

[brock.sampson]

I have a great deal for you.  You buy me the bit and and I'll tell you how good it works.  That way everybody wins.

 

[sstorkel]

Why bother with a double round-over bit, especially if you're trying to save money? I'd buy a regular round-over bit, which is cheap, and route both sides of the wood... Of course, the only thing cheaper that a round-over bit is ...T-molding! You can buy an entire cabinet worth of T-molding for less than the price of a decent router bit. Granted, you do need a router and a slot-cutter bit to install it. But it's still pretty cheap!

[nostrebor]

Why bother with a double round-over bit, especially if you're trying to save money? I'd buy a regular round-over bit, which is cheap, and route both sides of the wood...

BLASPHEMY!

Why do something simple like flip the workpiece when you can own a new tool? Owning an adjustable double Amana roundover bit adds much needed street cred!

 

[sstorkel]

Owning an adjustable double Amana roundover bit adds much needed street cred!

Not with me it doesn't. Spending a lot of money on a bit that's only going to be useful in a small number of cases doesn't seem that smart. Trust me: I don't think twice about spending money on router bits... but the double round-over is not a bit I'd ever buy. I'd get far more use out of a standard round-over bit...

[nostrebor]

I'll try to remember to add more smileys to my sarcasm in the future.

[scotthh]

I was looking at a bit like this one that is adjustable for the depth of the piece you are working on.

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/49750.html

I just noticed this at the bottom of the web page: Note: Not for use in a handheld router.

I don't know if this means you can use it table mounted router, but you may need to buy or build one of those too...