25K7101 Manual and/or schematic or maybe a bad JAMMA PCB?

[SavannahLion]

I know I'm probably going to find what I want after I post this and spend another hour on Google. Anyone have the Wells Gardner 25K7101 manual and/or schematic or know where I can obtain it?

Just got a hold of two WG 25K7101 out of a waterlogged cabinet (long story). On site, we fired up the cabinet and monitor A worked fine and monitor B showed a red menu then switched to some other garbled data, sizzle then it blinked out. B's neck yoke still glowed.

Since I wasn't interested in trying to debug the problem standing around in an unfamiliar neighborhood while wearing nothing more than a t-shirt and jeans to defend myself against the cold and mosquitoes, I pulled them and brought them home.

So at this ungodly hour I'm trying to test monitor A since it worked at the site. Instead I get a garbled image. Looks a little bit like when you try to watch the porn channel at a cheap hotel and didn't pay for it yet. Used the adjustment knobs on the breakout board and I can tell it's a fighter board, but not in a condition worth playing.

It's a bit of a chicken and egg problem. I don't know if any of my JAMMA boards work so I don't know if I should start looking at the monitor or PCB. I guess tomorrow err.... today I'll sort through the rest of the boards and see what I can hook up. In the mean time. Anyone know of or have the manual for the 25K7101?

[Ken Layton]

You have the 25" version of a conventional k7000 series. Go here:

http://jstookey.com/arcade/WG_25k7191/

You use the 7191 schematic at that site in conjunction with the k7000 manual. You also use the tradional k7000 monitor troubleshooting flow chart that Randy Fromm made.

[SavannahLion]

Oh, I remember how it works now. Thanks for the information

But, I have the 7101. What's the difference between the 7191 and 7101?

[Ken Layton]

The mounting frame is different and yours probably does not have a remote adjustment board.

[SavannahLion]

I was pulling my tools together to drain the high voltages, check the components and basically break this thing down until it occured to me to verify my connections for a third time. Checked my JAMMA harness against a pinout diagram and it all seemed OK. Then it occured to me that perhaps my sync line isn't positive, but negative. The last op mangled the plug so I couldn't just swap pins around. Pulled the pins and a couple of aligator clips later, I fired up my monitor and... voila!! I have an image! Whoohoo! I'll have to add a new molex to my shopping list.

The image is oversized though, the image is chopped off at the top and bottom and the colors seem a little odd. Tried it with my CPS2 Puzzle Fighter board. Some corruption in the background but the foreground characters seem OK. I'm hoping the battery didn't die. But I digress, I couldn't tell if too much of the image was cut off.

In any case, I heard a loud popping noise. My heart basically sank. My fourth monitor and the Flyback is cracked yet again?!? So I'm watching the back and I can hear a slight crackling noise. After about two minutes I could hear a really loud pop and a vertical one or two inch arch comes out of the top of the flyback. AAARRRGGGHH!!

 

I just shut it off for the night and went to bed. It's a bit too much to find nearly every single WG I come across with crap Flybacks.

[Ken Layton]

The replacement k7000 series flybacks are made by a different manufacturer than the crappy original ones.