How to connect this new arcade mon?

[antnida]

I got this used arcade mon today but it got this two plugs, how do I connect this to the vga card?

[SirPeale]

What's the make/model of monitor?

[grantspain]

from what i can make out its a nanao ms8 from a sega rally or manx tt

[antnida]

I found 3 stickers on the monitors.

1.  On the chasis it's         Nanao MS8
2.  On the tube it's           TOSHIBA A68KJU96X
3.  On the board area it's Nanao MS8-29FN22R

[grantspain]

the two plugs are ;
video signal,i expect the wires to be red/green/blue/white and blue-white
ac voltage in,this is a bit more complex as this chassis uses a manual degauss button so there should be 4 or 5 wires-100volts ac monitor power(2 wires),degauss button(2 wires) and possibly an earth
this monitor is a switchable 15khz/25khz sync frequency
to connect this to a pc you will need a either an arcade vga card or a jpac or a vga card that can handle lower resolutions with the relevent software

[Ummon]

And a breakout cable. Is it me, or does that monitor look like it was taken out of an engine comparment?

[antnida]

Ummon,  It's not you.  The person I bought it from took it out of a rave racer cab and I guess it been many years since anybody take a look at it .  I will have to do major cleaning before it go into my cab.

Back to more questions.  My arcade vga is on order with divemaster along with all the other control panel stuffs.

Do I need a vga amplifier?

Took some more pictures,

The video signals should be very straight forward, since there are only 5 wires I will have to connect h&v together to create composite sync.


The next 5 wire connector for power and degauss is something I would need help on, colors are yellow, blue, green, grey and white, based on the picture I think grey(-) and white(+) is for the power supply, if so can I connect it directly to the power cable and plug it into the wall?  Yellow and blue is for degauss and green is for earth.  Can you guys help me confirm this.  Also, how to connect the degauss or if I need any other parts for it?



Some pics of the adjustment.



In the picture above, if you look to the left and right most you'll notice that the board was broke off from the screws, all corners had been broke off (maybe due to shipping or disassembly, i don't know).  I didn't see any parts broke off or anything, some looks like it bended a little.  Do you guys think it's still good?

Lastly, grantspain mentioned that this monitor is dual mode, I didn't see any additional connector for switching it from low or med res.  Does it do this automatically? 

Thanks

[grantspain]

you can see the frequency plugs on the first pic near the rgb,they are marked low and high.
you need to run this via an iso transformer and really it needs to be 100vac although i have mine running at 110vac and have been for 15 years
if you would like i can either check my cabs wiring or i can send you the schem to show the ac wiring
for the degauss to work you would need to connect a momentary action switch rated at above 110vac

[antnida]

Thanks Grantspain,

If you can send me the schematic that would be good. 

Also, do I need the vga amp?

Thanks

[grantspain]

pm me your email and i will send you the schems i have,as for the question regarding the video amp  to be 100% sure send ultimarc an email as he will know whether this chassis needs an amp

[antnida]

I am not sure which iso transformer to buy, found a couple online but not sure, any recommendation?

http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80210000.htm
http://www.quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/4526
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_40&products_id=70&zenid=04aea9609c67eadffd7e036949b79f60
http://www.arcade-electronics.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1361

[grantspain]

the quartercade one is the exact correct one as its a 100vac output as used on japanese monitors

[antnida]

Grantspain,

I am ready to wire this monitor since most of the parts are here.  I tested for continuity last night based on the schematic.  Can you double check to see if I got it right?

My continuity test showed that the yellow and white are connected so I'll connect that to the white wire of the power cable.

The grey wire showed continuity after the fuse so that will be connect to the black wire on the power cable.

I believed the green is going to ground so that will be connected to the copper wire on the power cable.

The only one left is the black wire which I don't know where to connect it to.

[grantspain]

i will post tomorrow the exact connections according to my cabs because i am pretty sure you are incorrect,better to be safe than sorry eh

[Pac-Fan]

you need to run this via an iso transformer and really it needs to be 100vac although i have mine running at 110vac and have been for 15 years

Yes, definitely this monitor requires an iso. Do not connect this to the wall directly or you will ruin your video card, computer and monitor all at once.

From what I've seen the Nanao's can handle up to 125 volts without problem BUT I would still step it down to the 100-105 volt range to be safe.  I've seen a few of these hacked into non-japanese cabs with standard US iso's and they still amazingly work.  Try that with a Nintendo Sanyo and you'll blow out a few parts quite easily.

[grantspain]

o.k from what i can make out from my spare chassis is as follows;
Green-earth
Grey-ac 100v
White-ac 100v
connect these to you iso transformer to see if the monitor powers up,if it powers up fine then the black and yellow are for the degauss button

[antnida]

Thanks guys,

Iso transformer is on its way.

For the degauss button, do I press this once right after I power on the system?

Also, for the video signal, should I connect both the v&h together since the monitor only have one wire for both v&h?

One last one, switching between 15khz/25khz is done manually, my question is can it be done while the system is on?  I have plan to install a switch box for it as well.

Thanks

[grantspain]

do what i said first(connect the ac input only first),if you decide to connect a degauss button then make sure it is momentary action only and rated to 110v ac.
if you never move your monitor or cab then you will only need to degauss once(unless there is a strong magnetic field nearby)
connect v&h sync for composite sync
never unplug the frequency plug whilst the monitor is powered,just power off the monitor and wait a minute then swap plug positions.
tbh not many games use mid res apart from sega stuff from 1994 to 1997 so you prob won't need it.

[antnida]

OK, I just received my iso transformer today so I'll connect it to the monitor tonight.  Got a couple of questions on this guy.

On the input side there are two extra wires, blue one.  I am not sure what is it for, should I just leave those alone?

On the output right now it's connect to 120V, should I move it to 100V?



Thanks
Tony

[grantspain]

move the output to 100vac
i reckon the extra plug(blue) on the input is the marquee light connection so just leave that disconnected
double check the 100vac with a multimeter before connecting to the monitor
hope it all goes well

[antnida]

  Connected everything, 120V AC going in and 107V AC across the 100V terminal, checked to see if that's going through the board and it 107V showing up after the fuse on the board.  Nothing fired up, I am hearing a hump of some sort and the back of the tube glow orange color.

Let me know how to trouble shoot this guys.  I was fully working before it being shipped to me so I guess something going wrong during shipping or something.

Thanks

[Lutus]

By hump I assume you mean hum.  And just so you know, a hum and tube glow are good signs that you are nearly there.

Without an input the only way to tell if it is on or not would be to turn up the brightness.  But let someone else confirm this before you rely on it.

If you are talking about everything connected including the ArcadeVGA then your problem may lie with how you are connecting your ArcadeVGA, drivers... etc...

[Pac-Fan]

On the input side there are two extra wires, blue one.  I am not sure what is it for, should I just leave those alone?

On the output right now it's connect to 120V, should I move it to 100V?

That's a Nintendo step-down isolation transformer out of a DK era cabinet.  I don't believe you are identifying the input and output sides correctly.


The block showing 0, 90, 100V, 120 V is your input side (Primary winding). Leave it at 0 and 120V , since that is your incomming voltage. This will 'step down' from 120 to 100 on the output side. If you had it set to 100V and fed it 120, it would then feed 120 on the output side.

The dual non-polarized plugs out of the other side of the transformer (secondary winding) are the connection to the monitor and marquee lamp in the nintendo cabinet (yes they used regular blade connectors).   These are rated at 1.2 Amp max draw.

The blue wires (that then end in a yellow white pair with connector) are what then connect to the switch-mode transformer cage in a nintendo to power it. These are a separate winding and are rated at 1.5 amp. These are OUT not ins.

Do not reverse this by feeding power into the blues and taking power out of the block.  The winding sizes are likely different and the amperages it can handle without burning will be reversed and you will be powering it through only 1 of the secondaries. rather than through the primary.

Attached is a schematic of the power in a Nintendo:

[grantspain]

don't worry your monitor is not damaged,wire it up like pac fan says(sorry you americans have a different way of doing things to us brits),also thats why i mentioned using a multimeter first to check
when you have tube heaters 99.9999% means the monitor is fine,just turn up the screen volts or brightness

[antnida]

One more question,

On the input block the label said it's 0V and 120V, I assumed that we use both hot wire for this?  Not one hot and one ground correct?  I tested the outlet with my dmm and 120V does showed up between the ground and one of the hot, so I am not sure if I should use 2 hot or one ground and one hot (the one that showed 120V).

Thanks

[antnida]

I got the input wires figured out and the arcade monitor is working now, still have to figure out the resolution stuff, tried a few games with mame32 and the picture looks very bad.  I guess is that I have to set the right resolution for each game.

[Pac-Fan]

One more question,

On the input block the label said it's 0V and 120V, I assumed that we use both hot wire for this?  Not one hot and one ground correct?  I tested the outlet with my dmm and 120V does showed up between the ground and one of the hot, so I am not sure if I should use 2 hot or one ground and one hot (the one that showed 120V).

Thanks

In the U.S., an outlet is configured as Ground, Neutral and Hot.  Hot is where the voltage comes to you through, through the wires on poles or burried, from the power plant.  Neutral is derived from a stake (copper rod) running into the ground outside your home, likely on the power pole. This returns the voltage back to the power plant by using the earth.

Ground is usually a copper wire attached to your incomming copper (or steel) water pipe in your lowest level of the home. This too connects to the same earth, but is physically and electrically closer to your outlet than the neutral wire for intentional purposes such as safety.

Therefore, for all intents and purposes, ground == neutral.  You should always see the same voltage between GND and HOT as you do between NEU and HOT.  In addition, obviously, you should see NO voltage registered between GND and NEU. If you do, you have bad wiring in your home and should get it checked out.

To answer your question directly: Connect your neutral wire to the 0V input and your hot wire to your 120V input screw on the transformer block.  Technically since you are simply connecting to the transformer and nothing else, it really does not matter what you connect where--But if you were ever to attach additional wires to this screw block to run say an extension cord, you definitely want to have them aligned correctly.   ( A transformer winding does not care which end the hot comes in on by itself , though in this case there are multiple taps that connect at different points on the winding and you should wire it correctly)

Remember, Green = GND, White = Neutral, Black = HOT on a U.S. 120v system. On an outlet, the "D" port is of course the ground, the wider blade port is the neutral and the narrower blade port is the hot. Though measure this with your meter because it is not uncommon to see them wired wrong (hot/neutral switched) especially if a previous homeowner did their own work and didn't get it inspected. Happed to me in 1 entire room of my home

[antnida]

Thanks Pac-Fan,

Got some pictures up and I am having some color issue with the monitor.  I tried to adjust the gain, brightness and contrast as well as the horizontal and vertical adjustment to get the best picture possible but so far this is as good as it will get.

The left side have some color issue, can you guys tell me if any other adjustment will fix it or something have to be replace?

Also, the top of my screen is tilted to the left, I haven't able to get that straighten out. 

I am using the arcadevga card.




Windows is tilting to the right.

[HaRuMaN]

The color issue will likely correct itself with a de-gaussing...

[grantspain]

yep colours are down to degauss and the horizontal hold pot needs a tweek

[antnida]

Hi guys,

Been playing with the horizontal hold but but no luck, same for the degauss button.  I installed a 6A, 120V momentary push button between the yellow and black wires.  I improved the colors a lot, have to push it like 5 or 6 times until no more changes showed up but that does not solved the color issue on the left side at at.

Any other suggestion?

Thanks

[grantspain]

check for a unshielded speaker or a magnetized bolt on the tube frame for the colour distortion
try the horizontal phaze and the ss switch for the distortion

[antnida]

Haven't have much time to work on the cab, but the unshield speaker indead causing the color distortion issue.  Removing it completely didn't solve the issue either, however, I tried to placed it in certain spot and the color came out perfect. 

As far as the horizontal issue up top I have no luck, spending so many hours to try to fix that but no luck getting that thing straighten up.  I can see the top inches or so moving left and right or straigten up however, the inches below that is not at all.  It's behaving like a snake, one is bending this way and the other is bending that way. I'll continue to debug the issue and hopefully get it straighten up.

[antnida]

Thanks everyone for helping out.

Finally, got it close to 100%, the video amp was causing the picture to distorted, removing it solved the issue but I have to sacrificed the brightness.  Not as bright as I like but something I can live with.

Degauss didn't fix all the color issue so I have to end up adding a couple of magnet around the housing to help fix that issue.

Can't wait to finish up the control panel.