RESOLVED WG K7600 repaired and working now RESOLVED

[northerngames]

I contacted wells sales but have not heard back but figured if for some reason they dont carry them anymore anybody here know who in the us carry's these type parts?

I need these for a WG P823 Chassis:

TRANSISTOR
Q704 PART# 086X0362-001

INTEGRATED CIRCUIT
U701 PART# 086X0274-001

CAPS
C706 1UF 50V PART# 045X0609-016
C709  1UF 50V PART# 045X0609-016
C712 100UF 50V PART# 045X0609-512
C712 1000UF 16V PART# 045X0605-009

[grantspain]

the caps are basic,as for the transistor and i/c you need to look at the numbers on the components ,not use the wells part no.
for example the transistor maybe something like a 2sc4488,then just cross reference the actual component number on google and find a match

[northerngames]

so 2SC5150 for the transistor

and LA7850 Horizontal for the IC

is that correct? 

[Ken Layton]

I just ordered a 2SC5150 for a Neotec 27" monitor from MCM Electronics. They had it for $5.96

They have your LA7850 for $4.76

[northerngames]

awsome I'm going there thank's again guy's 

[Ken Layton]

You should also be able to get your capacitors there too. www.mcminone.com

[northerngames]

I found the ic and the transistor but the caps are bringing up multiple results

 31-6995 - CAPACITOR 16V 1000UF 105C HI TEMP,RADIAL (10D X 16L MM)
CAPACITOR 16V 1000UF 105C HIGH TEMP, 105C, RAD 10 X 16MM

 
 
 31-5460 - CAPACITOR 16V 1000UF LOW ESR HITEMP,HIFREQ.RAD. 10DX31.5LMM
CAPACITOR 16V 1000UF LOW ESR HIGH TEMP, HIGH FREQ. RADIAL

which is the correct ones for the chassis?

[grantspain]

i would use the first one

[northerngames]

all 4 caps are lsited the same way and type's sould I stick with the first type listed above for all 4?

just want to make sure so I get the order in correctly.

[grantspain]

all 4 caps are lsited the same way and type's sould I stick with the first type listed above for all 4?

just want to make sure so I get the order in correctly.

yep,i use standard caps rated at 105c for all my repairs-unless the schems state a special cap

[northerngames]

cool just wanted to make sure I did not need 1 of 1 type and 3 of the other or something lol.

thank's again I should be all set now 

[northerngames]

Hi guy's I had forgot it had te extra part attched to the anode cup and this would be my first time working on a monitor setup like this one I am use to the regular anode cup that runs the wire to the flyback only.

could somebody tell me what that boxed shape part is that is connected to the anode cup wires in the top right of the picture link?

http://www.arcadecup.com/ident/k7600p823.jpg

is it a deguass coil?

in the picture it appears to bolt on but mine has like a 1/2LB of glue all over it.

can the glue be removed and then unbolt it and it come off or does it actuall connect to something internally on the monitor tube and need to be removed a certian way?

also can it be discharged the same way?

I am trying to fix the monitor and not make it worse so I better ask lol.

[Kevin Mullins]

It generally just bolts to a spot on the monitor frame.
(no idea why they have that much glue on it)
It should have a little ground wire on it as well.
Discharge the anode cup just like any other monitor.

If I recall correctly it's basically a capacitor that will bleed off high voltage from bright screen flashes. (or something to that effect)

[northerngames]

good I just wanted to make sure how it was connected and if the discharging method was the same as others before I start doing anything just to be safe thank's again.

[northerngames]

well I went to go install the parts I had ordered and that box connected to the anode cup mentioned prior and pictured above in the link was totally different then my set-up.

mine is about 3X the size of the one in the picture and it does not bolt on like the pictured one.

it also was not connected to the anode cup wires but had 4 wires on two seperate molex plug that plugged into the chassis.

so I just disconnected the wire's from the chassis and left it sitting the way it is and glad I got away from removing it becuase it looked like it would have been a pain.

I had switched out the IC U701, TRANSISTOR Q704, CAPS C706, C709, C712 and upon power-up it no longer chirps the buzzing noise went away and now it displays picture perfect again 

[Kevin Mullins]

mine is about 3X the size of the one in the picture and it does not bolt on like the pictured one.

it also was not connected to the anode cup wires but had 4 wires on two seperate molex plug that plugged into the chassis.

Good deal !! 
Always nice to hear the success stories and there final solution.

But now I'm totally curious as to what the box is you were describing.
Can you take a pic of yours?

[grantspain]

good job-do not fear the eht

[northerngames]

I will get a picture of it next time I get in there again.

thanks again for all the help 

[shadowolph]

I just ordered a new k7600 chassis from Wells Gardner for my 39" monitor. It only has the single wire on the flyback, but there wasn't any "large block" that came with it. My original one didn't have one either. is something that I need to be concerned with?

after installing the new chassis, I have neck glow but the screen is still black, any suggestions?