Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: HELP with 39" wells gardner K7600 display issues still no go now with video clip  (Read 5158 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
I have a 39" wells gardner hooked to a pc by the arcadevga and breakout vga cable.

I have it wired to the R,G,B,GND,H composite -sync.

I only can get a garbled display were I cannot get a decent still picture what so ever.

I origanaly had a namco 246 system running in it and it ran picture perfect.

I installed the pc and arcadevga and could not get it to display so I had tested the arcade vga in another cab and it seemed to work fine.

so then I had taken another vga breakout that was tested working on another machine hooked it up to this 39" and got the same results.

this has the P-718 remote board wich has the contrast brightness height width V-pos H-pos etc.

the remote does respond to the brightness and cotrast h-pos v-pos etc. but it does not get the picture to discramble at all.

one really wired thing that puzzle's me is the remote board has a H and V Hold pot section but there is no pots in the spot they should be in.

I am wondering if this is the problem it does appear to be the problem I am having is the H and V rolling but how and why did it work with the naco system 246 if there not in there spot?

I had checked the chassis and found 2 little white screws and they did not do anything for it.

and I had found another 5 pots on the neck but they only did color change's really.

does anyone have one of these monitors hooked to the arcadevga and if so does your have the H and V on the remote board with pots intact or are they somewhere else on the chassis.

another mistake but does not seem to harm it is I had taken the remote board off the chassis to look it over and I had powered the monitor back on without it hooked up and now I get a chirp noise on power up and a little buzzing noise on the chassis that it never had prior.

it did not seem to effect or change the display any but not sure why it is buzzing and makes a chirp on power-up now.

I really dont want to kill this monitor and hopeing I did not already somehow  :dunno
« Last Edit: December 29, 2007, 02:11:34 pm by northerngames »

grantspain

  • I personally prefer "bog trotter"
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6177
  • Last login:Today at 05:26:50 pm
mess with the sync connections i.e link the v and h
http://www.ultimarc.com/monfaq.html#monitorcable

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
 yeah my vga break out cable is working correctly becuase it works flawless on other machine's.

 I had found some of the 39" chassis pictures and had found that for some reason the H and V are not supposed to be on the remote board and there actually hidden away pretty good deep into the chasssis from the rear.

 there is 5 pots on the neck board 2 next to each other on the far left when looking at it from the rear and the other 3 are next to each other on the right side.

 I still have not found any info on what them pots are on the neck board but since there is no RGB pots on the remote board I am assuming they are the R,G,B, pot's for color on the neck right side but I am still unsure what the other 2 on the left are for.

 also I had messed with the pin and trap pots on the chassis and was wondering what do they do and is it possible I could damage something by turning them pots also?

 now that I have found the H and V pots hidden on the chassis I am going to give it a whirl again and see what happens.

 my main concern now is the chirp and buzzing noise that it accuired after I accidently powered the monitor on with the remote board removed and soon as I did it I noticed the chirp and buzz noise.

 it now does it when powered up when it never did any of them noise's prior and now I'm wondering if I actually damaged something and if so what would be the coperate that's usually cuase's it or should it still be alright after doing that but if so why the noise now and how to get rid of it.

grantspain

  • I personally prefer "bog trotter"
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6177
  • Last login:Today at 05:26:50 pm
neck cards pots are red/green/blue background,red/blue drive
pin=pincushion
trap=trapezoid
sounds like a fairly new monitor with these adjustments
i know on other wg chassis leaving the remote off can cause damage to various components(i.e on a u5000 they blow to crap),i don't believe this to be the case with yours as you are getting full function and most modern monitor tend just not to start up with the remote disconnected-a lot of monitor i work on make a very minor chirp followed by a buzz(being the power circuit and degauss firing up)
do you still get this problem with a known good setup

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
I contacted wells and was told:

 THE BUZZING SOUND CAN BE SOMETHING FROM THE POWER SUPPLY OR THE HV OUTPUT TRANSISTOR. START WITH CHECKING OUT TO SEE WHAT THE B+ VOLTAGE IS, IT SHOULD BE ABOUT 125VDC. THE B+ VOLTAGE READING CAN BE TAKEN OF AT D106. IF THIS VOLTAGE IS LOW THEN YOU MIGHT HAVE A HV OUTPUT PROBLEM. Q704 SHOULD BE CHECKED OUT FOR A SHORT. IF THE B+ IS HIGH THEN THE UNIT IS IN A SHUTDOWN MODE. CHECK THE VOLTAGE ON THE U701 IC AT PIN10. IT SHOULD READ 12VDC. IF IT IS LOW OR MISSING CHANGE OUT THE IC701. 

I have not checked any of the above yet but I have checked around for the parts in case there needed and I can get the ic701 from happ for $13.35 but I cannot find this G704 transistor anyone know if it is a common part transistor and if there are know the value's of it?

I am going to test the above first to see if there bad or not but would like to know where I can get the parts if I do need them.

I tried to adjust the H and V and just about any other pot and they do me no good my next thing is to test the arcadevga on another cab and see if it works or not and also pull one I know works and stick it in the other and see if it fix's it.

I will also take some pictures but off hand to me it seems it is running in a none 15k mode but I dont know for sure yet.

grantspain

  • I personally prefer "bog trotter"
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6177
  • Last login:Today at 05:26:50 pm
the info wg have given you is in regards to the monitor not starting up at all,i thought yours is running o.k but without sync

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
yeah I just asked him and explained that I had removed the remote board and accidently powered it up without it attched and it seemed to aquire a chirp on power up and a slight buzzing noise after shutting it down and powering it up.

I never stated to them something was broke or fried

I had asked what would make the buzzing noise all of the sudden or if it could cause any damage by doing what I did and if so what would be the cooperate to look for.

I still have not tested any further but it still does the same thing display wise since I very started.

I don't think anything is blown becuase it works it just dont display right and I when I did power it on without the board I also stuck my head near the chassis to see if I could smell anything going bad but I did not smell any burn smell what so ever.

next time I try I am going to try my other arcadevga card that I know works for sure I had already elimanted the breakout cord and tested it as working so now I am going to trey another card that I have working in another cab so I will pull it and try it but then if it fails I know it is the monitor.

I will get some picture's of the display when I work on it again next.

to me it looks like either the arcadevga is outputting vga istead of true 15k or it acts like the card is displaying 15k but the monitor is in 25K mode that is the type of displaying issue I am having is the screen display if you tried something like that.

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
    still no go I tried a working arcadevga and a working breakout cable tested from another set and I still got the exact same results as the other arcadevga and breakout cable.

    so I am now almost 100% sure either their is something goofy with the monitor or perhaps it cannot run at 640X480 32-bit or something.

    I am going to attach a video clip





I tried the H and V hold and pretty much ant other pot on the monitor and the colors do change like they should be I dont get any response from the H and V they pretty much keep the poor image the same.

hopefully the video may help figure this out otherwise I will have to try what the WG tech suggested  :dunno
[/list]
« Last Edit: December 29, 2007, 01:57:45 am by northerngames »

Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
or perhaps it cannot run at 640X480 32-bit or something.

What resolutions have you tried besides that?

Almost looks like a sync/resoution problem still.

What model is the other "working" monitor setup?
Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.

qrz

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1056
  • Last login:October 24, 2015, 03:04:15 pm
  • wrangling electrons since 1978
the game monitors i have been seeing are able to take either signal polarity . this one is no exception
but , what you have pictured looks just how inverted video (w/sync) will look when feed composite to a standard TV
poor /no sync and negative ( inverted) video.
 
this monitor ( and test unit) are not content with what they are being fed...  verify game outputs are compatable

monitor schematic here :

www.wgec.com/pdf/Schematics/K7600_39_inch.pdf

qrz


northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
What resolutions have you tried besides that?

640X480 32-bit color and 16-bit color also tried 640x288

Almost looks like a sync/resoution problem still.

I can get it from rolling up and down somewhat but it is like the screen is being stretched left and right

What model is the other "working" monitor setup?

nanao 26" ms8-26su standard/medium switchable

also trying to feed it at 60hrz   








the game monitors i have been seeing are able to take either signal polarity . this one is no exception
but , what you have pictured looks just how inverted video (w/sync) will look when feed composite to a standard TV
poor /no sync and negative ( inverted) video.
 
this monitor ( and test unit) are not content with what they are being fed...  verify game outputs are compatable

monitor schematic here :

www.wgec.com/pdf/Schematics/K7600_39_inch.pdf

qrz

not exactly sure what your explaining but it is set at 15K on the chassis and is being sent a 15K signal on R,G,B,GND,H-composite.

I have tried it with both composite and negative sync and it did not make much of a difference between the two.

one thing I have not tried yet and probably what your meaning is I dont recall trying to run it on it's own H and V seperatly.

possibilty?

also the wire that run from the wall and to the power supply and monitor are:

FG
AC(L)
AC(N)

is that correct or should something be on the actual GND ground terminal on the PSU?

« Last Edit: December 29, 2007, 09:52:58 pm by northerngames »

qrz

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1056
  • Last login:October 24, 2015, 03:04:15 pm
  • wrangling electrons since 1978
sync should be seperate from the video. composite sync can be fed to monitor as long as the h and v inputs are both used ( jumper wire).

fg = field ground  ( earth gnd)
AC(L)  = "hot" side of pwr line
AC(N)  = "neutral"  side of pwr line       not a likely cause of ur symptom.

would u happen to have the specs for the game video.
i.e. scan rates , video levels, etc....?   original monitor model #
  i've not found any useful info ( detailed specifications) on the namco 246,  just sales propaganda.

pm if u wish

qrz
 
 

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
I have the H and V wire's twisted together from the output signals and connected to the H input on the chassis to make composite tried both +/-.

are you sure the H and V monitor inputs have to be connected also to make composite instead of the output H and V signals being connected?

my other cab is wired H and V output twisted together and connected to H input on the monitor to make composite sync and it works fine.

Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
I wonder if it's worth a shot to move that frequency selector plug over to the other choice just to see what the results are. I would have assumed it was already on 15khz..... but maybe it's not.


Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.

northerngames

  • Trade Count: (+18)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2927
  • Last login:April 09, 2016, 04:18:51 pm
I made sure it is in 15k for sure and was able to see in there good today.

well I had undone the composite H and V and made them seperated and it had taken the white line out and gave me a better display for sure.

it does not roll like it was in the video and I can actualy ake things out now and read most of the text but the display is still garbled and what not but way better then the video above.

I will get another video of what it is doing now before I would say it had 30% display with composite where now it is a 70% display with the H and V seperated.


Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
Now maybe fart with different resolutions ......
Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.