where is the low med res. display switch located on a 39" WG-K7600 chassis

[northerngames]

where is the low med res. display switch located on a 39" WG-K7600 chassis

here is a link to a picture if anbody know where it is at on the chassis could you edit the photo and post where it is located at on the chassis.

www.arcadecup.com/ident/k7600p823.jpg

[Kevin Mullins]

There is no "switch".

Find the plugged in connector that has all the black looped wires..... you have to physically unplug it and move it over to the appropriate connector for the resolution you want. There's only two places it fits, usually right next to eachother.

[SirPeale]

Wow, I've been out of the game too long.  I would have told you that's a U5000.

[Kevin Mullins]

Eh.... they all start to look the same after awhile.
Besides that, it is pretty dang close to the U5000 arrangment.

Either way they switch resolutions the same.

[northerngames]

awsome thank's I figured there was no switch and it was similair to my nanao's wire loop but I have not tinkered with this monitor yet and did not want to go poking my face in there face first trying to find it while it is still mounted in the cab.

 

[Kevin Mullins]

DO NOT switch it while power is on.   

(just thought I'd throw that out there as well)

[northerngames]

yeah I know better then that.

I may be in some trouble with it now though becuase I think it is already in 15K and I hooked up the arcade vga and the the display looks garbled and adjusting the H and V did it no justice.

it worked great prior when it had a namco 246 system hooked up.

I removed the T-molding and put new in and had to tap the T-molding back in with a hammer with cloth wrapped around the head and I am hoping I did not ruin something in the monitor from the bivration of the hamming on the cab.

has anyone ruined a monitor from hitting in the T-molding 

I probably will not be getting to it today but will be spending the day tommorow on it trying to figure out why it is not working correctly now.

it was origanaly hooked in composite and I wired in the vga breakout cable from ultimarc the exact same way the namco system was hooked up so now it's got my wondering and worried lol.

[Kevin Mullins]

Monitors take alot of vibration just from moving them around and such.
But if you have a full screen picture, bright colors, etc....even though it shows garbage....then I'd say it's a resolution or sync issue.

I haven't played with an ArcadeVGA personally, but it seems that with the newer one that people have to try combinations of seperate and composite sync connections and then play with the resolution settings that the card is outputting.

Is there a horizontal frequency or 50/60 hertz adjustment on that chassis?
Schematic shows a VR600 or VR601 that may help.

This is where just some plain ol' fiddling comes in.

I'd bet if you connected the Namco stuff back up that it works just fine.

[northerngames]

yeah I did use a cloth over the hammer head and it was a dinky little hammer type and I tried to be carefull and not hit it with overkill lol.

I am used to the nanao monitors and the red pcb styled arcadevga but my new arcadevga that I am using on this project is a different color and has a large heatsink built on the arcadevga were my other one is totally different but working.

I will check to see if there is a hertz adjustment becuase I am not sure and just got into this monitor the other day and still pretty new to it and it's chassis.

I do not want to ruin something on it becuase I know there a arm and leg to replace these days for a screen like that.

like you were saying I just need to tinker with it a little more tommorow and see what happens.

thank's for all the help.

[northerngames]

have not tinkered with it yet but have checked around for similair issue's.

this chassis video input is R,G,B,G,V,H,G,V,H when I had origanaly recieved the ultimarc vga it was wired for the V,H, seperated on the very end and I had removed the wiring to them from the end and had twisted them together but instead of putting them in the last H to make negative composite I had stuck in the the H in the middle and now am thinking maybe it is becuase it is running in "+ positive sync" when it should be running on "- negative sync" could this be my issue here?

another thing I found is I was looking at the well schematics and the product specifactions sheet and it states video level 1.5v-4v peak to peak, other levels optional.

I have to check ultimarc or with andy but pretty sure the arcadevga does - negative sync and could be the problem or is it possible I need the amp becuase the arcade vga only throws out 1volt?

[Kevin Mullins]

Well, Negative-Composite Sync is the "standard" output for arcade pcb's and I can only assume that the ArcadeVGA was designed around that aspect.

As for the voltage..... someone had said once that the ArcadeVGA only put out 1volt...... but I thought it put out around 5volt since it was desgned to be connected to arcade monitors. But maybe that was just with the original version. I know the newest version is designed to run PC monitors as well, so maybe it does only output 1volt. (?) I didn't find that specific information on the Ultimarc web site though.

[northerngames]

I wrote andy but waiting a reply but on ultimarc it does say the arcadevga is locked in negative sync mode and that the card outputs 1V so I guess I will be try swapping the +H composite to the -H composite and if the picture come's dull after that I will need the amp.

I will post the results after I get back into the cab again.