soldering onto a TV chassis

[Raven..]

Ok, so this is the TV I put into my converted Rush XBox racer. I want to solder onto the front panel button inputs so that I can control the TV with the existing dash buttons on my cab. Can anybody tell from looking at this which points I should solder onto for the micro switch Grnd and NO wire? (I'm thinking it's 1 and 4, but not sure). I'm referring to the little numbered points along the top edge shown, labeled POWER, etc.

Thanks!

[Kevin Mullins]

You could always use a meter on continuity/diode test with the leads on any combination of two pins and push each button to tell which two points make a direct connection when the button is pushed.

[Raven..]

You could always use a meter on continuity/diode test with the leads on any combination of two pins and push each button to tell which two points make a direct connection when the button is pushed.

Thanks.  I realized that after I posted it, but figured I'd leave it up anyway.  Not sure where my multimeter is right now either......

[SavannahLion]

Use a Multimeter. No point in soldering something without verifying your connections.

The broad tracing should be ground, it's common to all of them. In all of them the bottom two solder points look like they're for the metal jacket on the switch (if it has one) which is why all of the pairs are grounded. In the case of Ch DN and CH UP, the upper right solder point should be the signal trace. Not sure why the Vol DN switch isn't grounding the signal unless it's for noise reasons or something. In which case the signal traces are isolated from ground.

That's my two cents. Probably not even worth that.

[rockin_rick]

Yeah, definately test EACH.  They look as if the different switches may use different pins to switch with.  They may even be switching two sets of contacts (IOW SPDT) on some of them.  It's hard to tell without seeing the other side of the board, and a better pic of the one shown.  If I were to GUESS, I'd bet that these were SPDT switches with 1 switching to 2, and 3 connecting to 4.

Rick

[Raven..]

I ended up finding my meter about midnight last night.  Turns out each one is the same pin1 is signal, pin2 is ground.  The former "ABORT" button on my dash is now the "POWER" button.   

The rest will get done tonight (I had to get another molex connector for the rest of the controls).