Cab Lock Question...

[WCBoudreaux]

I know I read this before some where on this forum, but I can't find it now to save my life...

I'm just about ready to start putting my monitor, and computer in my Space Ace cab, but I was curious about something... The back door is mounted now, but I haven't put the lock at the top yet... Why? Well... I'm not sure how I need to go about drilling the hole... I think I have a pretty good idea, but I don't wanna mess my door up...

With that being said, what's the best way to  drill a hole in a back door (3/4" MDF) for a cam lock?

Thanks!

[HaRuMaN]

Do you really need to lock your back door? 

[Chris]

Do you really need to lock your back door? 

In most cabs the lock is the only latch the door has to stay in place. For those that don't need to lock their cabinets, Happ has a latch that fits into a standard barrel lock hole:



http://happcontrols.com/security/30032500.htm

[WCBoudreaux]

Chris ~ Not so much for the "Locking" feature as that is all that holds the back door on the cab... I could put screws in the 2 upper corners, but with MDF, it's only a matter of time before the holes are stripped out from taking it off, and putting it back on...

HarumaN ~ Thanks for that link... It would definately serve the purpose, but, how would I cut the hole for the lock? I have those "barrel locks" already, just dunno what my best approach to  cutting that type of hole is...

[shardian]

Nothing special - just a round hole. You can recess the outside a little bit so the door is still flush...but you don't have to.

[WCBoudreaux]

Oh ok, so I guess I'd need like a long threaded lock to be able to go through the 3/4" MDF...

The one on my Juno First cab, has a hole big enough for the "Key" area to recess, then it goes smaller for the threaded part of the lock to go through... I thought it may be some kinda special bit or something to drill a hole like that...

[ScottS]

If the goal is just to keep the door closed, I'd use some rare earth magnets. Just don't let them get too close to your screen or computer...

[shardian]

Oh ok, so I guess I'd need like a long threaded lock to be able to go through the 3/4" MDF...

The one on my Juno First cab, has a hole big enough for the "Key" area to recess, then it goes smaller for the threaded part of the lock to go through... I thought it may be some kinda special bit or something to drill a hole like that...

No, they just used two different sized bits. You can use either forstner bits, or spade bits. I'd recommend spade bits due to the "spike" on the front that you can use for centering.
Drill yourself a smal pilot hole all the way thru to align the point of your spade bits. Then drill the larger recess area - it only needs to be 1/8" or so deep. Now use the existing pilot hole to drill the smaller hole that fits the lock body. The lock is secured with the lock washer and nut on the inside of the cabinet door. 

original equipment (such as coin doors) have a special hole with flat areas that stops people from turning the whole lock to gain access. Since this is not a commercial job, a simple hole will work fine.

[fixedpigs]

Do you really need to lock your back door? 

perhaps he's homophobic...?

 

[WCBoudreaux]

Shardian ~ Thanks... That's kinda how I thought it should be done, but wanted to check with u guys first...

Fixedpigs ~ ROTFL!! Also, I hate spiders... And that avitar is just plain creepy...

[WCBoudreaux]

Ok here's an update, especially if any one is building a Dragon's Lair cab... The original lock wasn't recessed... And it just so happens, I have a lock that fits perfectly... So I won't need to drill any special holes after all... But it's really good to know that u guys are ready to help out when someone is in need!

Thanks again!

 

[SavannahLion]

original equipment (such as coin doors) have a special hole with flat areas that stops people from turning the whole lock to gain access. Since this is not a commercial job, a simple hole will work fine.

Any idea what bit does that? I've had to make holes like that in the past and the best I could come up with is to use a slightly smaller bit, drill two holes, then chisel out any remaining wood on the straight edge. It never seems to come out as clean or fits as well as the commercial jobs.

[Chris]

original equipment (such as coin doors) have a special hole with flat areas that stops people from turning the whole lock to gain access. Since this is not a commercial job, a simple hole will work fine.

Any idea what bit does that? I've had to make holes like that in the past and the best I could come up with is to use a slightly smaller bit, drill two holes, then chisel out any remaining wood on the straight edge. It never seems to come out as clean or fits as well as the commercial jobs.

A punch, perhaps, or CNC routed?

[MrMojoZ]

Any idea what bit does that?

I'm pretty sure they use trained mice.

[shardian]

original equipment (such as coin doors) have a special hole with flat areas that stops people from turning the whole lock to gain access. Since this is not a commercial job, a simple hole will work fine.

Any idea what bit does that? I've had to make holes like that in the past and the best I could come up with is to use a slightly smaller bit, drill two holes, then chisel out any remaining wood on the straight edge. It never seems to come out as clean or fits as well as the commercial jobs.

For the metal coin door, it was probably  a punch. If I wanted to do that on wood, I would probably trace the outline and use a dremel with a router base.

[knave]

For the metal coin door, it was probably  a punch. If I wanted to do that on wood, I would probably trace the outline and use a dremel with a router base.

Or just pop in a few staples. 

[WCBoudreaux]

I would think you could use 2 bits...

1 the a little bigger than the threaded area of the lock...

1 a little bigger than the "head" of the lock...

Start with the large bit, and drill down enough to recess the head of the lock, then finish with the smallest bit, all the way through...

That's how I'd attempt it...

[fixedpigs]

i've done this many times with retrofitting older road bicycles with newer recessed nut brakes...

it works like a charm...

(edit)
oh...but not bigger then smaller...always drill the smaller hole first...then make the recessed hole with the bigger...