Sparks inside picture tube - Updated with Re-sized pics

[bluevolume]

I've asked this question a couple times before, but I'm putting this together one last time to see if anyone can help.  I am probably a couple days away from junking this monitor.

Seemingly at random times, I will power-on the monitor and it will make a loud squealing noise, and an audible crackling.  Looking at the back of the monitor, there are blue sparks flying all around the anode cap (inside the monitor).  Turning it on and off a few times, it will get less and less noticeable, eventually to the point where I can leave it on.

If I do leave it on, the display will eventually come up and looks fine.  The screen can look completely normal even while the crackling sound is happening and some blue sparks can still be seen.  I am afraid to bring this machine into my house (in the garage right now) like this.

Here's what I have done to try and fix this:
- Put in cap kit
- Put in new flyback
- Insured that the lag (?) spring is grounded to the chasis frame
- Removed anode, cleaned port on tube with alcohol, blew out with compressed air

A local TV guy said that there used to be a spray that could be used on the port where the anode attaches that would help insure a good connection.  I haven't been able to locate this yet, don't even konw if it would work.  If anyone can help save this monitor, I would really appreciate it.  I need something good to happen here, or I will be trashing this monitor.  I just wouldn't have peace of mind having it in my basement with this problem.

[Ken Layton]

Did you ever clear up the moisture/humidity problem?

[bluevolume]

Did you ever clear up the moisture/humidity problem?

The monitor started the sparking today, as much as it ever has, and it has been completely dry here for over a week.  The humidity thing was probably me grabbing straws trying to find out what was causing it.  The machine has been in my 2-car garage the entire time, very clean and dry in there.

EDIT - Another thing I noticed is that while the monitor is sparking inside, there is a very noticeable "ionized" smell coming from the monitor.  Similar to the smell that comes from those ionic air cleaners.

[bluevolume]

I took a bunch of pictures this morning, some are blurry but best I could do with the monitor still in the cabinet.  There's a discoloration around the tube where the anode connects -- is this a bad thing?

RESIZED pictures: (around 100K each)
Anode
Anode connection 1
Anode connection 2
Back of tube 1
Back of tube 2
Back of tube 3
Back of tube 4
Back of tube 5
Back of tube 6

[Ken Layton]

I'm on dialup. I'm not waiting all ---smurfing--- day for a picture to load.

[grantspain]

i cannot see the protective paint around the anode,i can see a mark in the shape of a circle  but not the paint itself-looks like its been cleaned off with thinners or something
would like to hear someone else's opinion on this

[SirPeale]

I'm on dialup. I'm not waiting all ---smurfing--- day for a picture to load.

I'm not on dial-up, but they're taking forever to load.  Shrink them.

[grantspain]

blimey,whats up with your internet in the states-you have the technologically advanced nation the world has ever seen but you can't download a picture
no offence

[FrizzleFried]

Here are a couple resized...

...and Grant,  some of those photos are upwards of 2MB!

[FrizzleFried]

BTW:  Is that rust on the anode?   If so,  moisture sounds like the culprit.

[SirPeale]

blimey,whats up with your internet in the states-you have the technologically advanced nation the world has ever seen but you can't download a picture
no offence

I *can* download it, and did a couple, but I'm in the camp that these should be resized just because they're too freaking big.  Ken's on dial up.  I'm on broadband, but I should still be able to see this picture in under 20 seconds.

Also, his server might be serving up slightly slow.

[bluevolume]

Hey guys, I'm sorry for the huge files.  I thought it would be good to leave them full-res to show the most deail.  I think Frizzle's re-sized images should be good for everyone (Thanks Frizzle!).

I don't think there is rust on it, but it definitely looks dark and dull.  I don't know what the paint is supposed to look like there, its possible that its been compromised.

[Ken Layton]

That anode clip looks all rusted/corroded! There's got to be moisture present to cause that rust.

[bluevolume]

That anode clip looks all rusted/corroded! There's got to be moisture present to cause that rust.

That may very well be the case.  How do I remedy this?  It is in a dry garage, but there is no climate control in there.  Can I spray something in there to displace the moisture?

[FrizzleFried]

Have you attempted to turn the tube upside down with the anode cap off?  I've never had to do this,  but I figure that would at least help you determine if there is EXCESSIVE moisture in there...i've no other idea as to how to get any moisture that may be in there out.

[bluevolume]

Have you attempted to turn the tube upside down with the anode cap off?  I've never had to do this,  but I figure that would at least help you determine if there is EXCESSIVE moisture in there...i've no other idea as to how to get any moisture that may be in there out.

Are you talking about water actually accumulating inside the connection on the tube?  I could stuff the edge of a paper towel in there and see if it comes out wet.

This is so frustrating because it doesn't always happen.  I had the machine powered up 3 times today, only the first time this morning it started sparking.  The other two times it worked perfectly.

EDIT - I've been scouring Google Groups, and I saw mention of "Corona Dope", supposedly designed to fix this exact type of problem.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4226.html

[castlesteve]

ive seen this happen before and I thought it was moisture.  Finally the board actually zapped (even though the snapping sounds were coming from the neck).  In the end, I swapped out the flyback and vert defl IC and it came back to life without sparking. 

[FrizzleFried]

ive seen this happen before and I thought it was moisture.  Finally the board actually zapped (even though the snapping sounds were coming from the neck).  In the end, I swapped out the flyback and vert defl IC and it came back to life without sparking. 

Steve...the snapping and sparking isn't coming from the NECK but from the anode hole...small difference.

[Kevin Mullins]

I was wondering if it wasn't just simply voltage leakage around the anode cup. (?)
Both the "suction cup" and the tube hole look awfully clean.

I don't recall the proper term for the dielectric type grease that you might often find sealing the cup to the tube.
Any suggestions to that possibilty?

Also look to see if the dag spring is properly connected around the back of the tube.
Some tubes have the aquadag on the inside of the tube as well, so you may not find any actual coating on the outside.
(as mentioned here) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquadag

[bluevolume]

I think you're talking about "Corona Dope".  I found mention of this in a few Google groups.  I can get this locally so I think I'm going to try it.

If it doesn't work, at least I'll be helping restore the Ozone layer.  Al Gore and Michael Moore will probably come to my house to congratulate me.  And I would punch both of them in the face!

[bluevolume]

Loaded up the anode connection point with 3 layers of corona dope.  It definitely had some effect on the crackling, because now it is much quieter and goes away much more quickly.

I'll post updates.  Hopefully I'm good for a while with this thing.