Post-purchase questions on Billabs monitor.

[Joystick Jerk]

(Updated since I chanced it and tried it out, so some things were answered.)

So I just received my Billabs BL27C90T monitor. I had a few questions now that I've taken a look at it.


1.) There is a switch on the control board for TTL(1K Ohms) and Analog (75 ohms). Which should I be using for hooking this monitor up to standard PC?

2.) There is also an adapter cable for the AC cable that branches off into two different ends. Do I need this for the monitor? I can only see one possible connection for the ends, and that's the AC port which the cable could just plug directly into sans adapter.

3.) There are a few pots here and there that I'm not familiar with. If anyone could give me a quick description of what each does, that would be great.

 - R. Gain
 - B. Gain
 - G. Cutoff
 - R. Cutoff
 - B. Cutoff
 - 15k B
 - 24k B
 - 31k B
 - 31k H. Freq
 - ABL
 - Sub-Cont
 - V. Line


4.) After trying it out, there are some severe colour distortions on the sides of the monitor. I would assume the monitor needs to be degaussed. The monitor does have a degaussing coil around the screen, but it doesn't seem to be doing much to resolve the issues. Before I go and buy a degaussing coil, is the degaussing function already on the monitor automatic, or does it need to be "fired" by pressing a button or something?

[Ken Layton]

Those questions would best be answered by someone from Billabs.

[Rickn]

Here is some insight:

The board used by Billabs, Makvision and even myself is a board that started in Taiwan and has been copied by a few companies.

I believe both Billabs and Makvision are both really WeiYa. I am under the understanding both these companies bring the monitors in completely assembled and likely really know little about them technically- although Billabs is likels stronger in the technical field.

In our case "Nieman Video Displays" we buy the boards from a supplier I have dealt with for years.
In most cases we have him do some changes to improve relaibility and performance.
In all cases we do additional changes in components and set-up that we do not tell the board supplier about... after all then we would be doing the engineering for our competition.

All of our monitors are manufactured, tested and serviced by us in North America...

All right now, so much for my plug.

I try hard to help you guys where ever I can, so here is what you asked about- answers in {} below

1.) There is a switch on the control board for TTL(1K Ohms) and Analog (75 ohms). Which should I be using for hooking this monitor up to standard PC?

{ PC based Video cards are pretty much all 75 ohm terminated output, Jamma game boards usualy 1K}

2.) There is also an adapter cable for the AC cable that branches off into two different ends. Do I need this for the monitor? I can only see one possible connection for the ends, and that's the AC port which the cable could just plug directly into sans adapter.
{ No if yoou have a standard PC, just use the 15Pin sub-D, the adapter is for Jamma connections}
3.) There are a few pots here and there that I'm not familiar with. If anyone could give me a quick description of what each does, that would be great.
{ first off if you are an extreme novice, I do suggest you touch}
 - R. Gain { R, G, B gain controls are to adjust the gains of the individual colors so that white appears white. They also can give better reproductions of the individual colors when adjusted propery}
 - B. Gain
 - G. Cutoff {R, G, B cutoffs, when set properly make sure that when the monitor has no RGB signal, the screen will be black, when a grey signal is applied, grey appears grey not tints of colors}

{ PLEASE NOTE AT THE FACTORY WE USE COLOLR METERS, SPECIAL TEST PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES FOR THE ABOVE ADJUSTMENTS- A WELL SEASONED TECHNICIAN CAN GET IT CLOSE BY EYE}
 - R. Cutoff
 - B. Cutoff
 - 15k B { the 15B, 24B and 321B are the setup controls for B+, FOR EXAMPLE 15k IS THE b+ for the monitor when it has a 15Khz signal and so on. The value depends on the the tube and yoke used by the manufacurer, most of our competition does not pay close enough attention to this and subsequently end up with early tube failures due to high heater voltgage}
 - 24k B
 - 31k B
 - 31k H. Freq
 - ABL { ABL is automatic brightness limiting}
 - Sub-Cont { sun-contrast control}
 - V. Line { vertical linearity}


4.) After trying it out, there are some severe colour distortions on the sides of the monitor. I would assume the monitor needs to be degaussed. The monitor does have a degaussing coil around the screen, but it doesn't seem to be doing much to resolve the issues. Before I go and buy a degaussing coil, is the degaussing function already on the monitor automatic, or does it need to be "fired" by pressing a button or something?

{ the internal degausser is only fired after the power has been completely shut off to the monitor, this allows the thermistor to cool down. When it is turned back on the thermistor will fire allowing about 8 cycles of AC to go thru the degausser and degauss the tube- it may have to be repeated a few times. Keep in mind my earlier comment these monitors were assembled in Taiwan, where the earth's magnetic fields are different, the impurity may not come ou without adjustment or adition of magnets}

Hope this helps and good luck

Rick Nieman
Nieman Video Displays
Rick@Niemandisplays.com