Tools for finishing a basement

[ChadTower]

Now you know.  And knowing is half the battle.

[bigh4th]

Awesome!

-Harry

[ScottS]

One other complant that I have is I went to Lowes to price up 2x4s and I bet it took me every bit of an hour just to find ten or so good 2x4s.  I guess I will have to go to a lumber company and buy direct.  Little more expensive but at least I know the quality is there.  Anyone else have this problem when buying lumber from a hardware chain?

Don't be surprised if it's difficult to find decent 2x4s no matter where you go. Much of the production from dimensional lumber like this is handled by huge mega-sawmills. Everyone ends up getting the same "quality". For framing, the lumber doesn't need to be perfect... if you know what you're doing.

At most larger lumber yards, you won't be allowed to pick through their pile of dimensional lumber. If you want a hundred 2x4s, they'll give you the first 100 off the top of the pile. When you think about it, this actually makes sense: a certain percentage of the wood is unusable and in theory the unusable wood is distributed randomly throughout the pile. Professional builders know this and they'll order a bit more wood than they expect to use. The difference at Lowe's is that the 50 guys who've visited the store before you will have picked through the pile leaving you with all the unusable wood. When you talk to your local lumber yard, you might ask if they know what the expected defect rate is.

[t8erbug]

Drylock paint works well for sealing masonry walls. As for the floor if your putting in laminate wood flooring it most likely will be a floating floor. That means it is not attached to anything on the floor or side walls. It sets on a thin layer of neoprene foam. You can put drop plastic under this and it will work. Just a suggestion use something in the 10 mil thickness for the drop plastic. Oh, and don't forget to tape any seams.

[ScottS]

Drylock paint works well for sealing masonry walls. As for the floor if your putting in laminate wood flooring it most likely will be a floating floor. That means it is not attached to anything on the floor or side walls. It sets on a thin layer of neoprene foam. You can put drop plastic under this and it will work. Just a suggestion use something in the 10 mil thickness for the drop plastic. Oh, and don't forget to tape any seams.

10mil plastic is probably overkill. I think most manufacturers recommend 3 or 4mil. I used 6mil on mine and it hasn't become a problem yet. In addition to taping the seams, you also want to overlap them by at least 3-4 inches if not more. I'd recommend using separate foam and vapor barriers. Manufacturer's are starting to sell products that combine both on a single roll, but they're more trouble than they're worth, IMHO. The problem is that the vapor barrier (e.g. plastic) needs to run up the sides of the walls a couple of inches. With a combo product, the foam runs up the wall and makes it difficult to reinstall your molding. Or you have to cut a separate piece of plastic for all of the floor-wall joints. Easier just to put down separate layers of plastic and foam in my experience.

[ChadTower]

Hrm.  If it goes up the walls does the plastic go between the wall framing and concrete?  I've been consdering framing mine soon - just so I can get outlets put in - but not doing a floor for quite a while.

[ScottS]

Hrm.  If it goes up the walls does the plastic go between the wall framing and concrete?  I've been consdering framing mine soon - just so I can get outlets put in - but not doing a floor for quite a while.

My only experience is with installing a new floor in a completed house. In that situation, the plastic goes between the drywall and the base molding. The base molding must be removed to install the floor. There's a gap of 1/4 - 3/8" all the way around the room, which allows the floor to expand and contract (a.k.a. "float") as humidity changes. The molding has to be removed so you can slide the last board into place, then you replace it to cover the gape between the floor and the wall. The goal is just to run the vapor barrier up the wall a couple of inches to protect moisture from being absorbed by the edges of the floor boards.

Of course, you'll want to refer to the specific instructions for the floor you're installing. They're all pretty similar but you want to be sure you're doing what the manufacturer of your floor requires, otherwise the warranty may be void.

[ChadTower]

I'm probably going to put down a carpet.  I wouldn't want wood floors in my basement, especially where all my games will be.  I have a very dry basement, though, and will be applying Drylok anyway.  I suspect it has been applied years ago so I'll be doubling it up when I do it.

[t8erbug]

CT

If you don't mind the walls being painted. They make some pretty good looking external mount PVC channels and receptacle boxes. Plus if you place them strategically they'll be hidden behind the games and bar right.

[ChadTower]

Well, I do plan on finishing it, just not in the short term.  And I'd like to have some games set up in the mean time but the wiring down there won't even come close to supporting it as is.

[t8erbug]

I don't know your situation with the wiring in you basement but remember the power consumption rating on your games is an absolute number. These rating are set as if the unit was at full draw. I've run the math and you shouldn't be able to run more than 4 on a 20 amp circuit. Ive run 5 standard 19 in. games at the same time and only draw 18.8 amps. I ran several combinations in my basement and never exceeded that. i even had my kids playing the games to get "under load condition" readings. I used a Fluke multi meter with an Amp Clamp to take the readings.

If you add in a 100 watt light bulb for a lamp you should be good.

[ChadTower]

Yeah, I'm definitely going to have to run a few circuits.  That's why I want to frame the walls first.  I'm only doing the outer/foundation walls.  I have mostly pins so that draw rating is even more important.

[ideft]

Would you do the same for the walls as well?  I had thought about stapling plastic to the back of the frame before setting it into place.  Wasn't sure if plastic on the walls was over kill or not.

you do not want to have a vapour barrier between the concrete and framing.  A moisture barrier like home wrap, tyvek, typar, etc yes,  it will protect against water and still let your walls breath.