Tablesaws

[ChadTower]

I've picked up a couple of tablesaw books and have been pouring through them.  I understand a lot about them now that I didn't before and wouldn't have known otherwise, like how important the splitter and kickback knives are.

One question - featherboards?  I understand cutting a board at an angle to keep teh workpiece flush against the fence, but why all those grooves?  What do the grooves do that a nongrooved piece would not?  None of the books I have lay that reason out.

[Dudeman]

The grooves allow the "fingers" to give, so that the piece will have constant pressue on it. If it was a solid piece locked onto the table, and the piece you were cutting was slightly wider in one area, it would bind and get stuck.

[ChadTower]

Thanks... that makes sense.

[ScottS]

I believe the fingers also allow the featherboard to exert more pressure than a solid piece. The fingers bend slightly as the piece is pushed past the featherboard. Obviously, they want to spring back to their original shape, which causes them to exert more pressure on the piece being pushed through than a solid chunk of wood would.

[ChadTower]

Just found in one of the books, the third one I'm reading, that the fingers are primarily to prevent the piece from sliding back toward the operator.  The fact that they bend a little, combined with the bevel (of usually around 60 degrees), makes them a one way feeder that can prevent a certain amount of kickback.

[ChadTower]

Just realizing something about the CL ads I've been looking at... why is it that in the dozens of pics of tablesaws for sale I've looked at recently not a single one, and I do mean zero, have a blade guard or splitter attached?

[bfauska]

Because anything less than the nicest blade guard or splitter is a serious PITA.  Having worked in shops with both "factory" and after market blade guards I can say with confidence that there is a huge difference between trying to work with basic safety-only equipment and equipment that is designed to be user friendly and safe.  The problem is not that people toss out the stock equipment, the problem is that it is rarely replaced with something better.

[ChadTower]

Hrm... I haven't found a single tablesaw for sale that included the original guard or splitter.  Looks to me like everyone removes them and never uses them at all.  Most people I've asked said they didn't even have them anymore, even on saws in the 5 years or less range.

[bfauska]

Exactly.  Of all the shops I've worked in I think 1 had a factory splitter, 0 had factory guards.  They are crappy parts that almost cause more trouble than they are worth.  The after market ones with dust collection and other nice features are well enough made and can be quickly removed when needed so they are worth having.  I am prety sure that when I buy myself a table saw I'll be replacing the guard as I set it up the first time.

In a home shop what is most likely to happen is that somebody will need to make a cut that the guard won't allow and they will take the 20 minutes to remove the guard and not want to mess around with putting it back.  Buying a new guard that swaps out quickly is not worth 20% of the price of their saw to most people.

[ScottS]

Exactly.  Of all the shops I've worked in I think 1 had a factory splitter, 0 had factory guards.  They are crappy parts that almost cause more trouble than they are worth.  The after market ones with dust collection and other nice features are well enough made and can be quickly removed when needed so they are worth having.  I am prety sure that when I buy myself a table saw I'll be replacing the guard as I set it up the first time.

Don't be so sure! Kelly Mehler has been working with Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) to rewrite the standards for tablesaw safety in the U.S. The new regs say that the saws should be equipped with riving knifes and that the guard should be easily removable and replaceable. Sounds like Bosch, Jet, Grizzly, Steel City, General, Delta, Powermatic, Shop Fox, and other vendors announced new saws at AWFS that conform to some or all of these new regs. With Jet's design, for example, you can remove and replace the guard in 20 seconds without tools! 

More info on Popular Woodworking's blog.

[bfauska]

Sounds great to me, as I haven't bought my own saw yet and would rather not have to buy a guard to replace the one that comes with the saw.  If they get it right the only reason I would want a new one is to add dust collection... well, I suppose if they really get it right then they would plan for that too.  Of course I want a cabinet saw instead of a contractors, so I'm likely to be fairly picky.

[bfauska]

OK so I just read the article and I want the granite topped table saw, flat, no rust, smooth, heavy, that's pretty cool.   And it's granite, so you can make dinner on it too 

[Pixelhugger]

Wow that granite table is a fantastic idea. And a granite jointer fence is coming too. Wow. Now to find a couple of thousand extra dollars.

[DrewKaree]

Wow that granite table is a fantastic idea. And a granite jointer fence is coming too. Wow. Now to find a couple of thousand extra dollars.

Don't worry.  By the time you end up needing one to finish a piece for your cab, granite-topped tools will be in the $100 range

[ScottS]

OK so I just read the article and I want the granite topped table saw, flat, no rust, smooth, heavy, that's pretty cool.   And it's granite, so you can make dinner on it too 

Yeah, it's a pretty sweet idea! I'm currently taking a machining and CNC class and we use a granite surface plate for all of the precision layout stuff, so naturally I'm sold on the idea. Dunno about the jointer fence, but the tablesaw and bandsaw seem like a great place to use granite...

[Mallen]

Back to the original threads, I don't use feather boards much, I bought one way wheels that attach to the top of my fence from Grizzly, they are called Board Buddies I think.  I think it only works on Grizzly's fence.  Works great, the wheels only turn toward the saw, so no kickback and they also pull the board into the fence, so no wandering boards.  But I keep a few feather boards for times when the board buddies will not work.  DON"T waste your money buying feather boards.  You can make one in about one minute by cutting a 60 degree cut (thanks to Chad Tower for angle)off the end of a board and then raising a saw blade as high as it will go and make straight cuts in the board about every 1/8 inch or so.  Nothing fancy but be sure it's long enough for your clam to hold it.  I made some too short and the clamps can't reach them.   

[ChadTower]

I think you can make a featherboard at any angle, you just have to make sure you clamp it at a matching angle so it's flush to the workpiece.