Please help me pick a saw and router

[JHFerry]

Been lurking for awhile and got the building bug.  I really want to just stick with single and double control panels.  I have a Circular and Jig saw but in most of the plans I see, I really need a table saw to get those angles.  Can a table also cut curved?

Anyway, routers really confuse me.  Whats a plunge router compared to a regular one? Is there one best suited for this sort of thing? What bits would I need to get started? What is the standard router most people use here as far a bit size or whatever.

I really don't want to break the back here so the most suggestions I get the better.

Thanks -

[fixedpigs]

i built my cabinet without a table saw...

a circular saw with a sawboard is a great combination...

use a jigsaw for curves...

routers are amazing...i found myself using the jigsaw to make a close enough cut...then following up with a flush trim bit with my router for a straight edge...you'd want a plunge router if you were planning on making recessed areas on your control panel for joysticks and the like...

i have to go to bed now...hope that helps a little...

[ScottS]

I agree with fixedpigs: while a tablesaw is nice,  it is not a necessity. Anything you can do with a tablesaw can also be done with other tools. A circular saw with a sawboard can be used to duplicate just about any cut made with a standard blade. Grooves, rabbets, and dadoes can all be made with a router.

For more router advice, learn to use the search feature. They've been discussed in thousands of previous posts...

[ChadTower]

A tablesaw would be more necessary if you were going to build a lot of things with long straight cuts.  Or for small pieces that need to be ripped (cuts with the grain).  I wouldn't want to make 10 cabinets with the sawboard method but 1 or 2 should be fine.

[JHFerry]

How about a router?  So you guys think a plunge router?  Im guessing the difference is a standard router only does edges?

[ChadTower]

A plunge router can do just about everything a fixed router can do plus more.

Where is Nitewalker when we need a router enthusiast?   

[shardian]

Where is Nitewalker when we need a router enthusiast?   

He ran away when he got called out.

Anyways, a plunge router isn't "necessary" for our work. The plunge feature REALLY shines when you are doing internal detail work on wood, such as lettering. For our use, the only thing a plunge router will do is make starting on an inside cut a little safer - although you could just drill a large pilot hole and the plunge would be unnecessary. 
Unless you plan on seriously getting into woodwork, save yourself $100 and get a fixed base router.

[ChadTower]

What a lot of us here did over the spring was wait until Amazon had great deals on a combo kit - motor and both bases.  I got a really nice Porter Cable combo kit for $100 - after a pair of $50 rebates and with a sale and coupon.  It's the best of all worlds that way.

[shardian]

What a lot of us here did over the spring was wait until Amazon had great deals on a combo kit - motor and both bases.  I got a really nice Porter Cable combo kit for $100 - after a pair of $50 rebates and with a sale and coupon.  It's the best of all worlds that way.

That was a killer deal.

[Jouster]

Heck I think I got my plunger router for only $80 at Lowes (its a Firestorm I think)...the difference is that a standard router works at a set depth...the plunger version can be varied and locked.  The plunger type are more versitle, or at least easier to deal with differing depths.

Jouster

[Chris G]

I got a plunge/fixed router combo kit and expected to use the plunge most of the time.  Exact opposite - I've used the fixed almost exclusively so far.  Not to say you don't need a plunge - just that if you have to choose one, I would go for a fixed.

Regarding saws, I have been dying for a table saw.  I've been able to accomplish everything without one, but it is a royal PITA.  Takes ten times as long to do everything.  But as has been said already, if you don't have a lot of projects to use it, then it's probably worth putting up with the temporary headache to save the money and space.

Chris

[JHFerry]

What do you guys think of something like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RP250-4-Inch-Variable/dp/B000IEFIBO/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/105-7885204-8368452?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1183867777&sr=8-1

I noticed the more expensive routers also have a 1/2 collet, is that to fit more bits?

I think Walmart also had this:

http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=16872

$100 for the table saw and $58 for the router

[ChadTower]

The issue with using a tablesaw building cabs is that large panels are really hard to cut on a benchtop tablesaw.  That's where you get into the issue of needing a large top to support the workpiece.

[DrewKaree]

I have a Circular and Jig saw but in most of the plans I see, I really need a table saw to get those angles.  Can a table also cut curved?

Your question (can a table (saw) also cut curved) means you're simply guessing at your statement that "I really need a table saw to get those angles".

That's a fancy way of saying "you have demonstrated that you aren't qualified to make that statement, and you're also wrong".  You plain and simple DO NOT NEED A TABLE SAW TO BUILD A CAB OR CP!

If the prime requirement were a table saw, many many cabs here wouldn't have been built.  I don't want you to think I'm being an ass to you, but your statement could be discouraging someone from starting when they needn't be paralyzed with fear.

You also don't need a plunge router to build a cab, and may spend money unneccesarily on a feature you don't need.  A standard fixed-base router can and will achieve successful results for cab building

[BobA]

A cheap little table saw can often be more of a hinderance then a help when building a cab.  A cirucular saw and a saw board or 2, a jigsaw and a router can do it all.   If you are not doing t-molding or laminate you can probably ditch the router.   Cheap table saws do not have a fence that you can depend on or the power to do good clean cuts.  Now you ask why am I saying cheap table saws?   Well for the price of a cheap table saw $99  you can get a fairlly good circular saw and a saw board.  If you get a good table saw it will be out of range of most people who just want to build one or two cabs.

[Rusty]

I noticed the more expensive routers also have a 1/2 collet, is that to fit more bits?

A 1/2" collet allows for a 1/2" shank router bit.  Bits with a 1/2" shank are generally stronger, have more shank surface area (for better grip in the collet), and are less prone to deflection and vibration.

[JHFerry]

Guys thanks for all the reply's.  I wasnt very clear in my first post when I said control panels.  I really meant joysticks, like a MAS.  When I said I needed a a table saw for angles I meant for something to angle the top of a joystick.  You need to cut angles in to the front and back so the top mounts flush.  Still you all make a good point, its never really good to buy cheap tools.  I think I am going to watch the power tool thread and if a good deal comes along I will take it.  For now I am just going to replace the top of my MAS. 

[BobA]

You can cut angles on the edge of your boards with a sawboard and a circular saw.

[ChadTower]

Plus you're going to have to stop cutting joysticks with a saw.  You're cutting control panels.