cleaning tips?

[Angry_Radish]

I get replies in 1 out of every 5 topics I post at KLOV, thought I'd try here:-)
I need to clean up some edge connectors (the plug side, not the board side).
Any tips?
I was thinking about using a nail file board thingy, anyone else have some ideas?

[vintagegamer]

AR,

I've been here a little over a year, and can say with pride that these dudes will help others out as best as they possibly can..  It's a "2-thumbs and a joystick up" site. 

I'm sure someone here will chime in on this one.

VINTAGEGAMER

[cw]

pencil eraser

[Angry_Radish]

Hard to get the eraser into the non-board side 
I need to get between the fingers of the edge connector

[cw]

if you get one that you put on top of the pencil  then yes you can use it... they are wedged and work just fine...

[Angry_Radish]

Worth a shot, I'll try it tonight! (after I raid the office supply locker here at work )
Thanks!

[SavannahLion]

There's a minor debate about using erasers to clean metal contacts. Most, if not all, box store erasers employ some kind of abrasive such as pumice (Pink Pearl is the most popular and probably one of the better brands) to help remove pencil marks. On a PCB, the already thin contacts get thinner and you risk lifting the contacts or wearing them through, especially if you rub them in the wrong directin. Easy to do when there's 50 contacts on each side. I have a couple of NES carts where the previous owner swore by the eraser cleaning method only to have the contacts wear through. Sadly, even official cleaning kits employ some kind of abrasive so I'm kind of puzzled on what the mentality behind this is.

On a plug, it's not as big a deal, but it's best not to make using erasers a regular cleaning process in the first place.

In any case, using an eraser should be a last resort, not the first step.

Instead I have a several bags of Q-tips and clones. One has a chamois-like head that doesn't leave behind any fibers like the cotton Q-tips. MCM electronics used to sell them as VCR cleaning swabs. Not sure who sells them now. Another potential source is the makeup isle. They have these makeup applicators with two different heads on each end. One side us an roundish arrow shape and the other is a flat disc. It's similar to the chamois material but more foam-like. Use the swabs and the purest rubbing alcohol you can find. I experimented with as low as 80% and ran into oxidation and rusting problems. 99% or better is what you'll likely want. It'll get all but the absolute worst oxidation and crap off.

I'm still experimenting with something to "seal" the exposed contacts and prevent or slow down future oxidation. Home Depot sells this stuff in a spray can that's supposed to coat the contacts but it's really messy and ugly. Autozone sells something similar but it's bright purple or blue. I think they're both meant for heavy duty applications like car batteries and home circuit boxes, not PCB's. I've had WD40 suggested to me (attracts too much dirt) and even silicon spray ( ). None of which I would personally suggest or even try (such as the WD40 and Silicon).

[northerngames]

like said above q-tips the cheaper kind found in bulk at family doller or dollar general have big bags for a buck or 2 and the more fancier shaped can be found at some radio shacks family dollars and some of the regular eveything is a buck type stores.

isoprynole rubbing alcohol works great fingernail polish remover is even stronger and better but can fog platic and eat some materials so only get it where it need to be only.

[lanman31337]

rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth. 

[northerngames]

I'm still experimenting with something to "seal" the exposed contacts and prevent or slow down future oxidation. Home Depot sells this stuff in a spray can that's supposed to coat the contacts but it's really messy and ugly. Autozone sells something similar but it's bright purple or blue. I think they're both meant for heavy duty applications like car batteries and home circuit boxes, not PCB's. I've had WD40 suggested to me (attracts too much dirt) and even silicon spray ( ). None of which I would personally suggest or even try (such as the WD40 and Silicon).

little solder flux on a cloth?

[SavannahLion]

I'm still experimenting with something to "seal" the exposed contacts and prevent or slow down future oxidation. Home Depot sells this stuff in a spray can that's supposed to coat the contacts but it's really messy and ugly. Autozone sells something similar but it's bright purple or blue. I think they're both meant for heavy duty applications like car batteries and home circuit boxes, not PCB's. I've had WD40 suggested to me (attracts too much dirt) and even silicon spray ( ). None of which I would personally suggest or even try (such as the WD40 and Silicon).

little solder flux on a cloth?

Isn't that too acidic for long term application?

[Witchboard]

RatShack Electonics Cleaner?

[northerngames]

I'm still experimenting with something to "seal" the exposed contacts and prevent or slow down future oxidation. Home Depot sells this stuff in a spray can that's supposed to coat the contacts but it's really messy and ugly. Autozone sells something similar but it's bright purple or blue. I think they're both meant for heavy duty applications like car batteries and home circuit boxes, not PCB's. I've had WD40 suggested to me (attracts too much dirt) and even silicon spray ( ). None of which I would personally suggest or even try (such as the WD40 and Silicon).

little solder flux on a cloth?

Isn't that too acidic for long term application?

not that I am aware of there is usally alway's some left after desoldering something and when looked at again years down the road it still looks like the same melted flux I never actually did this but dont see why not but as for the flux I never heard of it eating anything long term by using it like normal.

[ChadTower]

I wouldn't worry much about it, really.  If you keep the items in a reasonably hospitable climate (e.g. in your house), the oxidation process is going to take years.  Just repin the connector and be done with it.  I would think that long term the bigger concern would be the effects of thermal expansion over a few thousand instances.  If you really want to do away with oxidation you're probably going to have to find pins of a metal other than tin.

[Texasmame]

Many ways to go about it, as mentioned.  I've used:

-pink eraser
-alcohol and Q-tip
-fine grit sandpaper, wiping area after with cloth

In your case, getting any of those in your tight space should do the trick.

I wouldn't use nailpolish remover or goof-off - those things are a bit strong.