didn't see this post before.... to reply to some of the earlier posts...
I know some "audiophile" people... (or close to...)
I have audited some very nice setups that could easily cost more than $250K...
well.... first... most of them are not really very rich...
its not like that have a multi-million house.... or driving big new Mercedes...
they "build up" their "collection" over yrs and yrs of listening...
I was not interested in audio before... because unlike video...
audio is very personal... or "subjective" (is that the word ?? or objective ??)
I mean for video... you see a picture... there's no argue whether that line on screen is straight or not... the edge is sharp or blurry... the color is bright or not....
most people will see and understand and agree to a somewhat similar "standard"...
but hearing is very personal... I like a soft vocal songs... while you like rock pounding music.... its is very different.... and you will end up having a different choice... I hear the soft mellow sound, and said wow... while you will think... "what's such a big deal with that ??..."
as for Howard's comment on a cd player is a cd player and will sound the same....
that's plain ignorant and WRONG....
I used to think that too... CD is digital... and digital is 0 and 1... what difference does it make for a $50 cd player, and a $10,000 cd player ??
well... actually.... quite a few things....
and 1 important aspect of it is vibration...
remember.... when the cd player reads all the 0s & 1s.... if a small % of those are read wrong... the cd player will still play.... might sounded a little different... but will not skip or jump....
first thing that makes the difference is the transport....
for our normal cd players.... the cd is clamped on the center... and it spins and data is read.... as it is spinning... if the motor is not completely flat... if the spinning motion is not steady.... the cd will "wobble"... and the outer edge of the cd will wobble the most, causing data to be read wrong.... (when you have bad dvd, or cheap machines that the last 15 minutes of the dvd is not playable... its usually because of the wobble effect... that usually happens on burned media...)
a good transport will have a full-disc-clamp.... where when it spins, the whole cd is clamped, and not just the center is clamped, and therefore the whole spinning motion is more smooth and steady and esp. outter edge data reading is less error prone....
next thing is signal.... there are simply interference when there is electic current... (EMF)... the stereo in your car.... when you step on the gas... or the engine revving... do you hear the speaker have the feedback "whinning" noise ??
Same thing.... place a very cheap red white audio cable (99 cents 6 ft one) to connect to the cd player and the amp, and then right on the cable, hook up a power tool cable (like a power saw / drill) that draws current.... and when you're using the tool.... do you hear a small "weeeee" sound (which is a electrical current feedback) ?? (or when you have cables overlapping each other... sometimes that happens too...)
well..... same thing inside a cd player.... a good one will sort of filter and regulate the power source, and have a design that will block other interference.... and the signal will be cleaner....
and depends on how fussy you are, these things can keep going.... and there are DAC, amp, cables, speakers, room placement,..... and the list goes on and on..... while you might not hear a difference, it does not really mean there is no difference...
and I can tell you, I CAN hear differences between some cd players... (and they do sound different...) not that all cheap ones are bad.... but some of the good ones does give more details / cleaner / different sound stage... (does it worth the extra $$ ??) that depends since everyone has a difference financial condition...
and for the record, I do own a 40 pound cd player that cost more than $1k, and do own an audio system that my friends and I all think it sounds decent...
