Author Topic: I have many questions about my SORCERER pin (Read 30393 times)

ChadTower · « **Reply #40 on:** May 27, 2007, 12:21:49 pm »

Those things are major gameplay elements... I wouldn't take them away. I'd wire an easy access button just inside the coin door or just inside the bottom instead.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #41 on:** May 27, 2007, 12:47:50 pm »

I had set it to 00 and it didn't seem to make any diff so I'm going to put it back to 01- if I can get whatever I need for the coins to go in correctly and activate the game, I have no issues putting quarters in.. It's nostalgic!

vintagegamer · « **Reply #42 on:** May 27, 2007, 12:52:35 pm »

Thanks Ken- what size balls does this game take, do you happen to know?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #43 on:** May 27, 2007, 02:02:21 pm »

Are you familiar with getting into the different test modes and settings modes ??
(if not, we can try to explain)

If you set Function 18 to Zero = Freeplay.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #44 on:** May 27, 2007, 02:33:01 pm »

Thanks for the info, Kevin- I was actually trying some of those function changes last night. I looked on the function table and 23 was the closest one I could find relating to the free play (# of credits).

I'll go back and check #18 on the list again- many thanks!

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #45 on:** May 27, 2007, 02:45:51 pm »

I'm pretty sure most machines use 1 1/16 " balls

modessitt · « **Reply #46 on:** May 27, 2007, 03:22:25 pm »

I'd be interested in knowing where you got the game and if you're located in the same area. We had someone call and e-mail pics about selling a Sorcerer pinball in the last few weeks, but believe he sold it to someone else when we passed. If you bought that one, and are local, we have the parts you need (new balls, novus, rubbers, bulbs, etc...). We can probably test your sound board for you, as well....

modessitt · « **Reply #47 on:** May 27, 2007, 03:26:59 pm »

Does it have a piece of plastic/metal along the bottom of the glass with a lip sticking out the front? This is what's required to lift it up and out once it's in. You CAN put it in without it, but it's difficult to get back out. You'd have to put your hands on the glass and slide it up, then use a thin screwdriver or something to pry the bottom out. This can be dangerous and you don't want to crack the glass.

Contact www.pbresource.com as they should have what you need, along with a lot of things you didn't know you needed....

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #48 on:** May 27, 2007, 03:38:13 pm »

You can tell for sure if it's missing if there is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of artwork missing on the bottom of the backglass. (kinda scratched up area)
And this piece is usually always metal.
Ya can't really tell in the pic, but there is a small lip that sticks straight out from the glass to get a finger hold on it.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #49 on:** May 27, 2007, 05:18:58 pm »

Thanks modess, but it looks like you guys are in TX and I'm further north.

VINTAGEGAMER

vintagegamer · « **Reply #50 on:** May 27, 2007, 05:20:46 pm »

Thanks Kev,

Actually the seller gave me another backglass for another game with a part just like that on it, but I'll have to measure and see if it's the same size or not. I just wanted to see how similar it was before I considered making the other one work on this.

VINTAGEGAMER

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #51 on:** May 27, 2007, 06:20:58 pm »

Is that the piece missing from yours ?

vintagegamer · « **Reply #52 on:** May 27, 2007, 09:17:26 pm »

Yep..

vintagegamer · « **Reply #53 on:** May 27, 2007, 09:19:00 pm »

Is there anything I can/should lubricate on my newly acquired Sorcerer pin to keep her top notch? Any suggestions from fellow pin owners would be greatly appreciated- I already have the one note about waxing the playfield w/Novus #2..

Thanks!

VINTAGEGAMER

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #54 on:** May 27, 2007, 10:34:13 pm »

You might want to think about putting some Krylon Triple Thick or something similar at least on that bottom edge of the artwork before trying to put a new bracket on. This might prevent it from damaging the artwork. The edges tend to be most vulnerable to flaking/peeling.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #55 on:** May 27, 2007, 10:43:14 pm »

Clean.... clean.... clean....and then clean some more.

Change the three AA batteries .... ASAP.

Replace any balls that even remotely look like they have a pit on them.

I would check each individual circuit board for bad solder joints around all the wiring header pins and any others that you may find on other electronics components in the headbox.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #56 on:** May 28, 2007, 02:34:51 pm »

I have that base channel piece ready to put on the bottom of my back glass, and was wondering if I could/should put anything in the channel to protect the base of the back glass? Someone mentioned some type of 3M product but I'm not really savvy with that kind of stuff so I'm asking if folks could provide me with some more layman-type suggestions

I was thinking of maybe lining the bottom of the channel with some type of silicone or something that wouldn't really harden?

Thanks in advance,

VINTAGEGAMER

SirPeale · « **Reply #57 on:** May 28, 2007, 02:36:34 pm »

I've merged a couple topics of yours. Would you please try and keep similar topics to one thread? I'd appreciate it.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #58 on:** May 28, 2007, 02:55:30 pm »

Sorry! Just excited about the pin and my mind's all over the place- that's what these old games do to you

What is the Krylon Triple Thick stuff? Sounds like a condom carried by hookers.

VINTAGEGAMER

vintagegamer · « **Reply #59 on:** May 28, 2007, 03:04:17 pm »

I made sure I changed out the 3 AA batteries, and I have to wait for the playfield polish to come in the mail (unless someone knows of a local place where you can buy the stuff).

But as for any of the components in the coin doors, mechs, etc, does anything have to be oiled or WD-40'd? I definitely want this thing to last as long as possible w/o needing repairs.

In other news, I noticed yesterday that there was a piece of black rubber on the playfield that I knew didn't belong there, and saved it b/c I was sure I'd find out eventually what it came off of- well today I noticed that 2 of the rubber gaskets around the score panels were missing, and VOILA- they were identical to the piece of "mystery rubber". I also found another one inside of the pin cabinet, so I took both of them today and epoxied them back in place.. we'll see how quick they fall off now!

VINTAGEGAMER

vintagegamer · « **Reply #60 on:** May 28, 2007, 03:08:40 pm »

Is Pledge or Murphy's Oil safe for old pin side arts? Since it's wood, I'm trying not to use any other household cleaners that will tear them up.

Thanks!

VINTAGEGAMER

vintagegamer · « **Reply #61 on:** May 28, 2007, 03:16:57 pm »

I know there's gotta be folks out there like me who HATE having to wait for parts to come in the mail, if there is a reasonable facsimile at a local store..

I need to know if there is an equivalent auto bulb or related to replace some of the burnt out bulbs in my Sorcerer back panel- they look like they could have a "relative" in the car light bulb market somewhere, and wondered if anyone had already done a search.

Thanks in advance,

VINTAGEGAMER

SirPeale · « **Reply #62 on:** May 28, 2007, 03:59:01 pm »

The most widely used bulbs are 555 and 44 bulbs. Buy them in boxes, they're far cheaper that way.

modessitt · « **Reply #63 on:** May 28, 2007, 05:22:01 pm »

Pledge would be okay. Windex is also okay, if you don't go overboard and soak the thing. Be careful if there is any flaking, as rubbing it will cause more paint to flake off....

modessitt · « **Reply #64 on:** May 28, 2007, 05:23:05 pm »

It's a paint - clear coating - found wherever Krylon paint is sold - like Wal-Mart I think....

modessitt · « **Reply #65 on:** May 28, 2007, 05:29:14 pm »

Novus can be bought in many places, some locally....

Novus comes in 3 main types - #1, #2, and #3. #2 is the one you want to use.

You can by a small-bottle pack of all 3 at The Container Store if you have one local.

Also, the larger bottles sell for about $8 and are usually found at automotive performance parts shops. Motorheads use it to polish the inside of engine cylinders. Whenever I need on fast, I run to a local performance shop and pick one up off the shelf.

**NOTE** Performance shops do not mean AutoZone's, NAPA parts, etc... Performance shops are places you would buy custom cold-air intakes, mufflers, etc to supe up your car. Look in the yellow pages and call them to see if they sell Novus....

ChadTower · « **Reply #66 on:** May 28, 2007, 06:33:20 pm »

I would keep him away from the backglass as much as possible until he knows more. You can't un-coat a badly done backglass. Learn more first, then tackle the touchy jobs.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #67 on:** May 28, 2007, 07:38:21 pm »

Most pinball lamps are these 6 volt types:

#44 or #47 bayonet base (available at Radio Shack, but quality is poor)

#555 wedge base (you can sub #159 or #259 from Radio Shack)

Most pinball 'special effects' lamps are the common automotive #89 bayonet base lamps.

Buying locally at Radio Shack or auto parts store is expensive. Just order several boxes of 10 at pinballlife.com

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #68 on:** May 28, 2007, 09:20:11 pm »

Honestly, I was taught by a previous employer to use brillo pads and windex. Actually works really well, as long as you don't scrub too hard. The paint doesn't come off (unless you scrub too hard)

vintagegamer · « **Reply #69 on:** May 28, 2007, 09:42:47 pm »

Quote from: USSEnterprise on May 27, 2007, 02:45:51 pm

I'm pretty sure most machines use 1 1/16 " balls

Thanks all for your input- I actually measured the ball diameter from just above the playfield glass, and after checking repeatedly it's looking like it's only 7/8". I also checked the manual I have for the game, and it shows every blasted part # for everything but the pinball.

I'm thinking that's the right size for the machine b/c the channels where the ball runs look around that size, as well as the little spot where the ball sits upon waiting its turn before being set up in front of the launcher. Any other way to confirm? I know there are a few other Sorcerer owners here.

VINTAGEGAMER

vintagegamer · « **Reply #70 on:** May 28, 2007, 09:44:40 pm »

Wow really? Sounds like a step away from using a D.A. (sander)!

modessitt · « **Reply #71 on:** May 29, 2007, 12:59:34 am »

How about this? Sorcerer uses "standard-sized pinballs." Go to any pinball parts supplier and tell them you need some "standard-sized pinballs" and you will get the right kind. It's not like you have a Hyperball or Hercules here.....

psik0tik · « **Reply #72 on:** May 29, 2007, 01:52:31 am »

Judging by the pic the coin mechs aren't even there.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #73 on:** May 29, 2007, 07:05:26 am »

Quote from: modessitt on May 29, 2007, 12:59:34 am

How about this? Sorcerer uses "standard-sized pinballs." Go to any pinball parts supplier and tell them you need some "standard-sized pinballs" and you will get the right kind. It's not like you have a Hyperball or Hercules here.....

The thing I keep thinking about is, the guy had alot of older pins lying around, and when doing some reading last night I noticed one supplier had 3/4" balls which were used for some older pin games- I'm wondering if this game was missing the balls, and the dude just popped 2 in that he had available. I'm guessing that if the 1 1/16" are bigger than the originals should be, they'd just get hung up somewhere, right?

VINTAGEGAMER

ChadTower · « **Reply #74 on:** May 29, 2007, 07:49:06 am »

Quote from: USSEnterprise on May 28, 2007, 09:20:11 pm

Honestly, I was taught by a previous employer to use brillo pads and windex. Actually works really well, as long as you don't scrub too hard. The paint doesn't come off (unless you scrub too hard)

That former employer wasn't exactly known for caring about what the customer ended up with.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #75 on:** May 29, 2007, 10:29:18 am »

Dish soap mixed with hot water. Dip a sponge into the solution and wring it out. Now use the sponge to go over the outside of the cabinet. That's good for cleaning the artwork safely. Now that it's clean you can go over it with Pledge or whatever wax.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #76 on:** May 29, 2007, 11:16:43 am »

I have a list of items to pick up for my SORCERER pin, and would like to give any vendors affiliated with arcadecontrols.com my business first. Are there any who work directly with this site? And also, are there any discounts affiliated with being a member here? I intend to place the order today.

Thanks!

VINTAGEGAMER

ChadTower · « **Reply #77 on:** May 29, 2007, 11:20:10 am »

Don't know of any affliliated, but pinballlife.com is head and shoulders above the rest in my experience. Price, service, etc. All stellar.

vintagegamer · « **Reply #78 on:** May 29, 2007, 11:27:50 am »

Thanks Chad- I think Ken recommended them as well. I'll wait a little longer before pulling the trigger to see if anyone else chimes in.

clanggedin · « **Reply #79 on:** May 29, 2007, 01:18:51 pm »

I use a magic eraser.


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news