Read up on how to safely discharge a monitor before working on it. Discharge before every time you touch anything near the tube or anything connected to the tube!
It is not uncommon for a game to be moved on a truck, then suddenly have problems.
Since you say the monitor has 110VAC at the connector, then we'll assume the problem is in the monitor. I would first check the fuse on the chassis and make sure it is good. If not, change it and power up to see if it blows again. Next, do what Grant said and try turning up your brightness control on your flyback. Also, make sure all your connectors are plugged in securely (power connector, degauss wires, yoke wires, anode wire, and video signal wires). I have seen some older WG's that won't power up if the degauss wires aren't plugged in.
I guess it's possible for the monitor to decide to die right when you get it home. If you're used to working on pinball sound boards and driver boards, then you should be used to testing and changing caps and transistors. Safely discharge your monitor and replace all the electrolytic caps. Follow Grant's advice and scan the board for cold solder joints, especially around the high voltage and power supply areas. Also, follow your flowchart and check your high-voltage-shutdown circuit for a bad transistor. You may even have to change your Horizontal Output Transistor. I hope it's not your flyback, as they are hard (if not impossible) to come by for the K4900's.
Check the easy stuff first, then do some basic troubleshooting using your flowchart. Once you've been able to rule out some items, let us know what is going on.