Xbox 360 Stick for DOA4, VF5, SF2, Virtua Tennis 3

[nyprimus4]

I want to build an arcade stick for my xbox 360 for Dead or Alive 4, Virtua Fighter 5, Street Fighter 2, etc. and I knew this was the place to come.

I've never done anything like this before. I want to keep the project cheap.

For parts I want to order all Sanwa, is that recommended for the best possible experience or would you recommend Happ?

http://www.vgonetwork.com/article.aspx?id=181
Green sanwa joystick and 6 green sanwa pushbuttons (one for rb,lb,x,y,a,b)

What do you recommend I do for the actual stick? Build something or use an existing stick and gut it out in exchange for a wired 360 controller?

Has anyone ever gutted a 360 controller and made an arcade stick? that tutorial if exists would be helpful.

[BobBorakovitz]

I've been thinking of doing that mainly for SF2 & UMK3.  Walmart has a cheap wired controller for $25.00 I was thinking that's probably the most cost-effective way to go.  I'll probably put a 2nd joystick in for some proper robotron & Smash TV action as well.  My only dilemma is building a box (not too big of a deal) & buying the slot cutting bit for the T-Molding.   Unless someone else has another solution for that.

Anyway, good luck!

[Kaytrim]

you guys might want to head over here--> http://forums.shoryuken.com/index.php  You will get answers to all kinds of questions related to custom built controllers for consoles.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[beardawg252002]

i made one out of an x-arcade box.  check out "My First Arcade Controller" on this forum.  i didnt build the box, so it didnt get much attention, but i think its sweet.  its for xbox 360.

if you need help and or direction to a tutorial let me know.  beware, really fine soldering ahead of you, but very do-able if you are patient.

here, i'll link it.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64898.0

also, some of the wiring diagrams out there are incorrect for the down directional pad on the 360 controller.  its the only one on the board that is flipped from convention.

[btp2k2]

Getting the slot cutter is easy......just head over to www.t-molding.com

Order a slot cutter when you order your t-molding! Piece of cake!!!

If fighting games are going to be your mainstay, I would recommend a Happ Comp or Super...buttons are personal preference....I prefer the Happ Comp buttons. the sanwas tend to feel a little mushy in my opinion

[nyprimus4]

i made one out of an x-arcade box.  check out "My First Arcade Controller" on this forum.  i didnt build the box, so it didnt get much attention, but i think its sweet.  its for xbox 360.

if you need help and or direction to a tutorial let me know.  beware, really fine soldering ahead of you, but very do-able if you are patient.

here, i'll link it.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64898.0

also, some of the wiring diagrams out there are incorrect for the down directional pad on the 360 controller.  its the only one on the board that is flipped from convention.

That is awesome. That is what I'm looking to do. Maybe a little smaller though.

More pics? and tutorial?

[beardawg252002]

That is awesome. That is what I'm looking to do. Maybe a little smaller though.

More pics? and tutorial?

well, i dont have any more pics from my project on flickr.  but i can help you via email or this thread.  whatever works for ya.  the other pics i have at home on my pc are just kind of progress pics and might not help you much.

i will link two tutorials that helped me get started.  however, the one tutorial has an incorrect diagram for the down directional pad.  just keep that in mind.  i emailed him about it, but got no response.

http://www.instructables.com/id/ERDE8YGNZ0EV2Z5N3P/

http://www.gamersreports.com/article/24/
this is the one with the diagram that is incorrect.  ground and signal are swapped for the down d-pad.

also, i have some really good pics of the board with a trace overlay for the buttons and d-pad that i found on the net.  thats where i finally figured out that the other diagram was wrong.  i can send them to you if you like (i cant find them on the net now, arghhh).

all of the button solders are easy as long as you are careful scraping the coating off (start, back, A, B, X, Y).  just dont take the metal off, or the surface contact can pull off the board after soldering.  the shoulder buttons (LB, RB) are really easy as well with no scraping required.

now for the hard part.  the D-pad.  only the "Project Gyokusho" tutorial actually mentions how hard this is.  the other guy acts like it is a piece of cake and its not.  trust me here.  you can try to solder to the surface contacts as the other tutorial suggests, but it is really hard.  after failing to successfully solder the d-pad a couple times, i did what the "Project Gyokusho" guy did.  I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS AS IT MAKES THE PROJECT MUCH EASIER AND MORE DURABLE.  solder the d-pad wires into the holes where the trace goes through to the other side.  you have to get about 24 gauge wire to do this, but it works like a dream.  and, the wire holds itself in place until you solder it.  after i tried this on a test board, i could pick up the board by the 24 gauge wire.  not bad.

anyway, this is getting long, so i will stop for now.  again, email me (in my profile it should be public) if you would like more help and info outside this thread.  or, here is fine too.

i plan on making another that is wireless now that i have the process down.  some of my friends are even asking me to make them one.  lol.  me first though.

[nyprimus4]

I need a basis for the stick though. Could I build a box by myself with wood from home depot and then use nice paint on it? or are there cheaper solutions then the x-arcade stick because I don't have enough to spend $100 on the stick alone.