Maybe now I have a reason to buy a router...

[Chris G]

I had the opposite problem yesterday... there was all sorts of "quality time" going on - but I just wanted to watch the final round of the Masters!     

[kenzo42]

If it is the hitachi M12V that is their older model it works great. Very good machine. It used to sell for about $140-$160. It is a 3 1/4 HP machine at a lower HP price. It's a perfect router table router.

Nitewalker, I purchased the m12v a couple years ago and I could never find a router table for this setup. Do you have any recommendations?

I've never used this router, for this sole reason.

I appreciate it.

Kenzo

[NiteWalker]

By not finding a router table for the M12V you mean you couldn't find a plate that accepts the router? They're easy to make out of 3/8" acrylic or a similar material. Me personally, I would mount the router directly to the bottom of whatever table you're using.

Now about a router table I think that's one project every craftsman should build rather than overspend on one. They're very simple. If you can build a box you can build a router table. They can also be complex, but that's totally up to the builder.

What exactly do you want in a router table (usage wise)?

[kenzo42]

I only really need it to make round overs, slots (for t-moulding), and flush trim.

When I read routers are the tool most often responsible for taking off fingers, it scared the heck out of me. I always rationalized that a router on a table would be the safer method for some reason. Could you tell me why a table might be preferred vs freehand?

I was watching this item on Amazon (Rousse deluxe router base plate):
http://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=pd_rhf_f_3/102-1130559-5387338

Thanks NiteWalker

By not finding a router table for the M12V you mean you couldn't find a plate that accepts the router? They're easy to make out of 3/8" acrylic or a similar material. Me personally, I would mount the router directly to the bottom of whatever table you're using.

Now about a router table I think that's one project every craftsman should build rather than overspend on one. They're very simple. If you can build a box you can build a router table. They can also be complex, but that's totally up to the builder.

What exactly do you want in a router table (usage wise)?

[Crax]

http://www.woodpeck.com has plates that will fit a M12V, they are expensive though.  Like nitewalker said, you could always just mount it directly without the plate.

[NiteWalker]

I only really need it to make round overs, slots (for t-moulding), and flush trim.

If you'll be doing those things on smaller workpieces a router table would work fine. A bartop for instance, would be an ideal project for a router table. A full size cabinet is best done with a hand router.

When I read routers are the tool most often responsible for taking off fingers, it scared the heck out of me. I always rationalized that a router on a table would be the safer method for some reason. Could you tell me why a table might be preferred vs freehand?

Tablesaws are actually the #1 suspect in workshop related injuries. Tablesaws are notorious for taking the fingers of those who don't respect the tool. I'm not saying a router couldn't mangle your digits, the tablesaw is just more likely to do so statistically speaking.

A router table is safer because there's more support for the work. Say you need to round over an edge, with a hand router there's less than 40% of the base riding on the workpiece. This is a stability issue that can be dangerous if the router tips and you lose balance. On a router table you're moving the workpiece, and unless your router table is obscenely small the workpiece will likely be 80% or more supported depending on it's size.

I prefer the table for easier setups and less clamping. Also some cuts are only possible on a router table like a lock miter bit.

I was watching this item on Amazon (Rousse deluxe router base plate):
http://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=pd_rhf_f_3/102-1130559-5387338

Thanks NiteWalker

The router plate by rousseau is ok but I'd prefer using an aluminum plate as it will never sag the way plastics can. Woodpecker makes the best aluminum router plate money can buy. If I were plate oriented I'd get one of theirs. Yes it's expensive, but it'll outlast your router.

I'm a big fan if direct mounting because it eliminates any possibility of error in your cut because there's no plate to level.

 

[ChadTower]

Say you need to round over an edge, with a hand router there's less than 40% of the base riding on the workpiece.

I noticed that.  Why not support the other side of the base away from the bit?

[NiteWalker]

It's possible with either an Offset sub-base or by double stick taping a scrap of stock the same thickness on the edge of the router base that would normally be riding on open air. I like the offset sub-base.

[ChadTower]

I was thinking more like just having something for the wide side of the router to ride on, the way you would be putting in an extra support for a large cut with a circular saw to avoid the piece breaking off before you're done cutting cleanly.

[NiteWalker]

I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing...

[ChadTower]

I'm probably not good at describing these things yet.

You're supporting the other side of the router base with something not being cut but on the same plane as the cut and parallel to it.  It's running the bit through a slot between two pieces but only cutting one side of the slot.  The other piece is an inch or two off the bit.

[NiteWalker]

Right, that's what I was thinking when I mentioned sticking a piece of scrap on the opposite side of the router base.

We're thinking the same thing...I think...

[Crax]

There are a lot of ways to help support your router depending on the type of routing you are doing.  If you have or can get a copy of shopnotes #56, there is a easy to make flush trim jig to use when cutting trim.  #56 actually has 5 pretty useful jigs.

[ChadTower]

Right, that's what I was thinking when I mentioned sticking a piece of scrap on the opposite side of the router base.

We're thinking the same thing...I think...

Must have been the double stick tape that threw me.  I'm thinking have the offcut support parallel to the cut and you're thinking have it parallel to what is supporting the cut.  Yes?

[ChadTower]

Pulled it out of the case today, learned how to remove the motor from the base, then had to put it back to do other stuff.   

[ChadTower]

Okay, got back to it... read through the manual, got the hang of swapping bases, putting bits in, adjusting depth, etc.  I don't know if this thing will get easier to work with as it wears in but damn the plunge base springs are almost impossible.  The lever won't release them unless you yell at it and then once it does it releases the tension like it was shot out of a cannon.  It's hard to plunge because the springs are so damn tight.

[NiteWalker]

One of the reasons I'm not crazy about the 890 series.

[ChadTower]

Does it get easier with use?  I haven't turned the thing on yet and probably won't in the next few days unless I get a bit of time tomorrow.

[DrewKaree]

If'n you got some 3-in-1 oil, mebbe see if that'll help.  It's not the springs, it's the assembly around the plunge rods that's sticking on you (although the springs when brand new will be stiffer than after a few uses).  WD40 if you don't have 3-in-1 (like a sewing machine oil - REALLY lightweight).

[NiteWalker]

Walmart sells the 3-in-one drew mentioned. Paste wax would probably work better though. A very light coat won't attract dust. Other than that, use I guess.

Best solution? Sell the plunge base on ebay and put the proceeds towards the best plunge router ever made, the Dewalt DW621. 

Seriously, it should smooth out a bit after some paste wax (I use johnson's; $5 a can) and with use. You can try to wear it in some by plunging it up and down 100 times or so. Also, make sure the motor is in when doing so.

[ChadTower]

It's already lubricated enough (came this way) that I needed to wash my hands after playing with it.

[ChadTower]

It's raining today.  No routing for me.   

[NiteWalker]

It's gonna be raining all week here...

But I have a basement shop so all I have to deal with is a leaky pipe. It doesn't leak anywhere I work, just where I walk...

Where's you work area? I thought you had a garage.
If you have to worj outside you should consider a canopy of some sort. That way you could work outside and enjoy the fresh rain...

[ChadTower]

Nope, no garage for me.  I have a really nice shed but I don't want it filled with the type of dust a router makes and at the moment it's not empty enough to put in a decent work area.  I do most of my work in the backyard on my picnic table/sawhorses.

[ChadTower]

Two days later it is still raining like a mofo.

[welshmark]

Got my "Woodworking with the Router" book through from amazon today.  First impressions are excellent - looks to be exactly what I need as a router newbie.

[Chris G]

Got my "Woodworking with the Router" book through from amazon today.  First impressions are excellent - looks to be exactly what I need as a router newbie.

Agreed - I finally got my copy from them on Saturday (ordered it early April) and it's very well written.  I haven't had a book that heavy since college, though - doubles as a weight-lifting plate!