Kitchen cabinet refacing

[ChadTower]

Well I definitely plan to use the island cabinet to at least experiment with both techniques.  Worst case is that I learn both and end up with a buttload of new tools and skills.  Wouldn't that suck?   

[prOk]

if it was me, i'd get a router with a good templating bit and trim off the frames to convert the shells to a euro style, then, make new doors add new euro hinges and be done with it.    Far easier in the long run than trying to make the old faceframes look like much and you wind up with a better look.

[ChadTower]

Cabs.

[ChadTower]

Cabs 2.

[ScottS]

if it was me, i'd get a router with a good templating bit and trim off the frames to convert the shells to a euro style, then, make new doors add new euro hinges and be done with it.    Far easier in the long run than trying to make the old faceframes look like much and you wind up with a better look.

Euro cabinets rely on having a relatively thick/rigid back in order to keep the cabinet square and plumb. Face frame cabinets rely on the face frame and frequently have a thin (1/4") or even a non-existant back. On face frame cabinets, the face frames usually extend past the edge of the cabinet carcass anywhere from 1/16" to 1/4". Euro cabinets, obviously, are butted up next to each other. Which may mean that you'd have a difficult time finding Euro hinges that will deal with the added (and perhaps inconsistent?) "overlay" between one cabinet and the next.

All of which is to say that attempting to convert from one style to the other may entail some interesting surprises/challenges. But it's certainly an interesting idea! I generally build european "32mm" cabinets because they're easier/quicker and offer a lot more versatility than face frame cabinets.

[DrewKaree]

That first pic makes it look like exactly like they made one large face frame to cover the whole works.  That stile (the vertical piece on the face) looks like it connects into the top rail. 

Does the cabinet interior go right up to the ceiling (looks like it in that pic, anyway)? 

If so, that looks to be what they did - throw the cabinet carcasses up and slapped the face frame up over everything, which means there's a very good possibility they made the face frame as they went right on the cabinets, instead of making the face frame and THEN putting it up and fastening it.  An easy method to replicate for you.

[TroyO]

Something I did with some old wooden windows I reconditioned was using a heatgun to soften the paint and using a scraper. You'd be amazed how fast it can go once you get rolling. (There must have been 10 layers on there... 60 year old house.) The equpment is decently priced too.. probably about what you'd pay for chemical stripper. ($19.99 if I remember correctly.)

Sanding also might not be wise if you think lead paint was used. I'd go chemical or heat and make sure the stuff is collected on a plastic tarp and properly disposed of.

[ChadTower]

I actually don't know if the cabinet has a "roof" or if the top interior surface is the actual ceiling.  I'll look tonight if that's what you're asking.  If you're trying to see if there is any room between the top of the cabinet and the ceiling - if there is, it's hidden under the face frame and the molding.  No one in my house is tall enough to see easily in that top shelf without standing on something so only low traffic stuff goes up there.

[ScottS]

Man, that's a lot of cabinets! Looks impossible to trim the face frames away near the ceiling and countertop. Stiles (= vertical pieces) seem very wide by todays standards, which may make it difficult to get a more modern look without completely replacing the face frame; in my kitchen, for instance, there aren't any stiles between a pair of doors if they open into the same cabinet.

I dunno... I think if it were my kitchen I'd probably save my money and just plan on replacing all of the cabinets and the countertop. If you have a big enough garage, you could attempt to build them yourself. Just be aware that finishing takes 2-4X as long as milling the wood and gluing it together. There are other options that split the difference between cheap+time consuming and expensive+quick. You could build the boxes and do the finish prep, but pay someone else to do the finishing. Or you could buy cheap cabinet carcasses at Ikea (if there's one near you) then add your own doors (and face frames, if you want that look). Or order semi-custom cabinets through Scherr's, Home Depot, etc. and do the install yourself.

The best deal might be to build a DIY CNC router capable of handling a 4x8 sheet of MDF or plywood. Then you could program it to mill as many cabinets (kitchen or arcade) as you want! Get a local guy with an HVLP spray gun and a spray booth to do the finishing and you can start churning out product. The whole thing will pay for itself in no time 

[ChadTower]

I don't have a garage.

If it comes down to that much effort I'll just strip and paint them.  I don't see much point in tearing out a full kitchen of very solid built in cabinets.  About the most effort I would go to in the process is removing the counter tops to get access to the awkward places.

[ChadTower]

So, now that I have a much better understanding of cabinetry and woodworking, I decided to revisit this.  I think I may build new faces as Drew suggested.  If I'm going to bother to do it, I think it's going to be the start of a long redecoration of the house.  I'd like to get it to more of a hardwood finished home, rather than painted trim and cabinets and such.  That includes either refinishing or refreshing the hardwood floors, replacing painted trim with stained, etc.  Replacing interior doors or maybe just stripping and finishing them.  Everything is in good condition physically but old and has enough coats of paint that just repainting isn't an option.

When the time comes to start, I'm going to take that island, and see exactly how the face frames are attached.  If they're not glued on, and I can get them off without damaging the carcasses, perfect.  I'll build new facing.

I was at Lowe's the other day looking at their various cabinet door options just to get a feel for what different woods looked like in cabinet doors.  I want to do simple construction and use the wood itself as the primary feature for a country/rustic look.  From the woods I looked at (cherry, maple, oak, ash, hickory), I definitely thought hickory worked best.  Good color variation and personality in the features.  Hopefully I can actually get enough locally at a price somewhat comparable to the others.

[ChadTower]

Okay, possible change of plans, because I almost wet my pants when I saw this.  A few lines of LEDs, a couple LEDWiz...

[Chris G]

While you're at it, maybe you could hook in some voice recognition software too.  Have it change the color of the cabinet/shelf you need. 

[ChadTower]

Heh.  I could see that getting out of hand quickly.  The kids would start fighting over which color to be and it would look like a disco in the kitchen.

I think this lit cabinet concept would actually be easier than refacing, too.  All I'd have to do is replace the doors and put the LEDs in.

[Chris G]

You could even do a matching touch-sensitive floor like in that Michael Jackson video.

[ChadTower]

"I can't find the sugar!"

<cabinet with the sugar goes red>

That would be kind of cool.

[ScottS]

I think this lit cabinet concept would actually be easier than refacing, too.  All I'd have to do is replace the doors and put the LEDs in.

It all seems easy until you start trying to fish the wires for the electrical stuff through the wall... 

[ChadTower]

I'd probably put it through the back top corner of the cabinet and cover it in a surface running wire hider.  If done in the same color as the cabinet interior you could look right at it and not see it.