Cutting Laminate

[acevedor2]

I am trying to figure out the best way to cut laminate.  I am covering the CP in laminate.  Not the top, the entire box.  Yes I know it is cheaper to just paint it, but I like the look of the black laminate and want to laminate all sides.  I think it will look cleaner.

My particular question is that you can se from the pictures below that I will have t-molding on the left and right and I will put laminate in the middle.  I will cut the laminate a little bigger on top and bottom so I can use the trim router to clean it up.  But how do I get the edges that butt up to the t-molding nice and straight.  I was thinking just use a straight edge and sharp knife, but I tried that today and it sure did not want to cut very well.

Any ideas? 

[MikeQ]

laminate over the slots and recut them after the contact cement dries.

Why do you want the t-molding on the on the edges anyway? 

[acevedor2]

Hey, That's a pretty good idea!  I never thought of that.  Will recutting the slot cause and tearing of the laminate?  Should I put a piece of tape over it before cut it again? 

The primary reason I am putting the ZT-molding on the edges is because I tried it out and I really like the way it looks.  I think it adds something and makes it look pretty nice.

[ScottS]

In general, it's better to put laminate on your panels after they're cut to size but before they're glued or screwed in place. Even better, buy black melamine-covered particle board so you don't have to worry about doing the lamination. Probably cheaper, too. I think I pay $25 or $35 for a 4'x8' sheet of black melamine.

MikeQ's idea of laminating everything, trimming it with a flush-trim bit, and then re-cutting the slots for the T-molding is a good one. You may get some tearing, but who cares? It'll be hidden when the T-molding is installed. The other possibility is to cut the laminate to the exact size you need with a saw. Tablesaw, jigsaw, or circular saw will all work... if you have the right blade. Doing the cuts safely on a tablesaw can be tricky though.

[acevedor2]

Thanks Scott.  I thought about using the melamine, but the problem was I couldn't find any 3/4".  They only had 5/8"  Have you found 3/4" black melamine before, an if so where did you get it? Thanks again!

[NiteWalker]

I wouldn't use melamine. It's not even close to being durable. Also, I wouldn't cover the t-molding slot with laminate and then recut it. Putting laminate on the edges defeats the purpose of t-molding in the first place.  Your best bet is to just cover the top as you normally would, and leave the t-molding edge bare and just install the t-molding. Covering it won't add any durability to the edge unless you don't cover it with t-molding.

As for cutting, I use my tablesaw with a zero clearance insert and have not had a single chipped edge yet. Works great. I have to clamp a piece of angle aluminum to the rip fence so the laminate doesn't slide under it though. No special blade is needed. I use the same blade for cutting laminate, polycarbonate, acrylic, wood, plywood, MDF, etc. Also, clamping the laminate to a straight edge (like a piece of straight cut MDF) and using a router works great to cut the laminate as well.

[NickG]

If it would be progress inhibitive to disassemble the project in order to trim the laminate on the pieces separately, and you decide not to use the t-molding over laminate idea, then your original cutting plan might be effective.  Only this time, use a laminate scoring cutter instead of a knife.   Don't use the snap method, though, if you are scoring from the decorative side (just score over and over till you've cut all the way through.)  I'd use a piece of 1"x2" or scrap MDF as my straight edge cutting guide; clamped to the material.

[ScottS]

I wouldn't use melamine. It's not even close to being durable.

And you're basing this on... what? In my experience, melamine is extremely durable. Hell, I've got a desk made out of melamine-covered particle-board that's lasted 15 years and still looks brand-new! And the black melamine snake cages I made 5 years ago are still going strong...

FWIW, I buy 3/4" black melamine from Plywood and Lumber Sales in San Jose, California.

[NiteWalker]

My computer desk is melamine and on the front edge where my forearms rub while typing it is worn away. I'll post a pic later of what I mean (camera is across the street at my sister's house). Imagine what it would look like after a while of playing if it were on a joystick control panel. I've had my desk for about a year now. Melamine has its uses, like shelves and such, but I wouldn't use it on any high use/high wear areas. It's also not as resistant to water as a lot of people think.

Plastic laminate is built for durability. Why do you think it's on counter tops?

Here's an article done by gopodular.com explaining the differences between plastic laminate and melamine. It's a good resource for the differences.

[ScottS]

Are you sure you're dealing with melamine? I've never seen the stuff wear through. Chip near the edges, yes. Scratch? Occasionally. Wear through? I, personally haven't seen it. And I've abused the crap out of my desk! I used it to make airplane models for years and regularly scraped glue off of it with a razor blade. It has a few scratches here and there, but otherwise looks great.

Yes, countertop laminate is more durable than melamine. Hopefully, you won't need to chop vegetables or drop 400-degree pans on your cabinet, though. Countertop laminate is really overkill for an arcade machine; it's designed for a much harsher environment.

FYI, melamine itself is a plastic, which is waterproof. The bare particleboard edges, of course, aren't waterproof unless sealed. I caulked the joints in my reptile cages and haven't had any problems. Applying edge-banding to the edge can also help prevent water-absorbtion and swelling, but isn't fool-proof.

[ChadTower]

I've had melamine pieces that wore through too.  I had a desk that did the same thing on the edges and I've seen melamine shelves that had worn through right in the middle of the piece, a big oval shaped divot.

[ScottS]

Strange. Maybe, as with particle board, there are different levels of quality of melamine board? Guess it wouldn't surprise me if the stuff that's mass-produced for sale at Ikea or Wal-mart would use a thinner layer of melamine plastic than other stuff. I get all of my melamine from a lumber shop that sells to custom cabinet makers, so maybe they have better stuff. Like I said: I've never see it wear through...

[ChadTower]

Probably.  We're talking about mass produced assemble it yourself made from cheap mdf furniture.

[acevedor2]

Well I am almost done laminating the CP - pics to follow tomorrow.  It is actually turning out pretty nice.  I did what MikeQ recommended and laminated over the slots I had cut for the T-molding.  I intended to recut the slots for the T-molding but now I am not so sure.  It is looking pretty nice without them.  The Bosch laminate trimmer I bought is pretty nice and works like a champ.  Thanks for all the help!