Cleaning monitor chassis

[shess]

Ok, well I searched the archives and couldn't find any info on this.  So I've got a monitor chassis that is covered in junk and I want to find the best way to clean it.  I've cleaned other PCB's by removing the batteries and then putting it in the dishwashwer with no soap and heated dry off.  This worked fine for two pcbs..so can I do this with the monitor chassis as well?  I think my problem is either related to this or bad solder joints.  The picture will look great for a while, but then sometimes the vertical hold slips a bit and then it looks like some diagonal white lines are popping up.  Also the red gets a little overpowering.  It might need a capkit but I'll try the cleaning and resoldering first.

Scott

[ZeroPoint]

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

I got this warning sign blinking in my head when reading your post. Any moisture (like soap and water) is very dangerous for your health when dealing with monitor electronics, including the chassis.

Please use a reliable source of information on how to clean/repair your chassis before proceeding or use a professional to do the job.

I am sorry not to actually answer your question, but you actually scared me to write this.  Me maybe ? Maybe not ?

[shess]

I know it's risky but I'm not *completely* new on this.  I ran my other pcb's through the rinse cycle and then stuck them in the oven for about 30-60 min and then let it sit out overnight to make sure it was completely dry.  I'll also make sure that I've discharged the board fully.  So other than the fact that more power is going through the board than the pcb's I've cleaned, it shouldn't be any different...right?

Scott

[Grauwulf]

I wash chassis in the dishwasher all the time using the same procedure you have described to do your other boards. I do this all the time with chassis I work on, and I have yet to have a come back because of it. Things are a lot nicer to work on when they are clean.

[ardarvin]

Wow, I never even thought to use the dishwasher. Myself...I used some 99% pure Isopropyl Alcohol in an aresol spray can (available at most electronics stores), and a bunch of Q-tips. It was tedious, but worked.

[shess]

This board has so much gunk on it, I'd be afraid in my furious cleaning I'd break something off.  After running it through the dishwasher and before putting it in the oven, should I remove the flyback because of the rubber suction cup?  Or maybe I'll just leave it out in the open for a few days so I don't melt anything.

Thanks,
Scott

[Level42]

Don't dry it in the microwave though 

[Grauwulf]

I usually blow as much of the water off as I can with compressed air from an air compressor and then I heat the oven up to about 200 deg F, turn the oven off and put the chassis in. Usually by the time the oven has cooled, the chassis is dry. 200 degrees is not hot enough to damage anything on the board. You may have to do the heat/cool cycle a couple of times to get the chassis totally dry if you weren't able to blow the majority of the water off.

[SirPeale]

Wash away.

Just make sure it's absolutely dry.

Oven is a great idea.  Just turn it to 200 before you start, and when it reaches temp turn it off.  Pop the chassis in the oven and walk away.  Come back a few hours later.  Then start resoldering.

[Ken Layton]

I'd swear this has been discussed a zillion times before.

[SirPeale]

I'd swear this has been discussed a zillion times before.

Nope!  Never, Ken.  Never.

[Level42]

Wash away.

Just make sure it's absolutely dry.

Oven is a great idea.  Just turn it to 200 before you start, and when it reaches temp turn it off.  Pop the chassis in the oven and walk away.  Come back a few hours later.  Then start resoldering.

Don't use 200 degrees CELSIUS as well......not enough to let all the solder run out.... 

So Ken, you recommand this as well ? Sorry if I missed this before

[shess]

I checked the search feature and I couldn't find it...I promise!  Well I tried the dishwasher thing and it cleaned it right up.  I put it in the oven for a few hours and tried it out this morning.  Good news!  I'm not dead and neither is it.  Bad news, seeing a weird issue where the picture is really fuzzy starting up and then gets crisper.  Also I hear a staticy sound coming from the neckboard area and there are little ripples/blips on the screen that coincide with that noise.  It can't be water because it probaly would have blown up.  I'll try a different chassis on this tube to see if it goes away.  Thanks for all the advice!

Scott

[Grauwulf]

When it is doing that, take a good look at the neck of the tube. If you are seeing bright flashes in the neck, it's a problem internal to the tube.

[shess]

I checked the neck and I didn't see any flashes of light...just the little amber glow.  I suppose it's possible washing the chassis had something to do with it..or could just be coincidence.  Hopefully tonight I'll be able to try another chassis with the tube and see what happens.

Thanks,
Scott

[Grauwulf]

Let us know how you make out.

[shess]

Well I wanted to give it one more try and initially I thought I heard some noise, but I'm leaving it running now and it looks and sounds great.  The original problems are still there, but not as pronounced.  Maybe after resoldering it'll clear up..otherwise capkit.  But it still looks really good!  And the best part is this is a tube from an old tv so there is zero screen burn.  Thanks for all the advice!

Scott

[ardarvin]

Yeah, if you haven't resoldered the neck board, do that first. I had a similar sound / problem with a neckboard, and the static sound was actually the high voltage arching across a broken solder joint. I couldn't visibly see it unless I turned out all the lights in the room and watched for it.

[shess]

I did notice that some of the solder points on the white tube socket on the neckboard do look sketchy.  I might flow some new solder in there and see if it makes things better.  Thanks for the tip.

Scott